Šiandien Andis eis į STA travel (www.statravel.com) kur jis tikrins ar mūsų pasirinktas kelionės maršrutas yra galimas, nes visgi yra gana dideli apribojimai kokios oro linijos gali skirsti kur ir iš kur.
Tai pati kelionės pradia, nes be lėktuvo bilietų mes negalesime prašyti vizų ar kitų į įleidimą į šalį patvirtinančių dokumentų. Mat kai kurios šalys reikalauja atvykimo ir išvykimo įrodymo, t.y. skrydio bilietų. Tokios šalys yra Kuba, Australija ir Kinija. Šiaip esu ganėtinai maloniai nustebinta, nes lietuviams į daug kur vizų ir nereikia, tik ne visi pasienio / muitinių atstovai tai ino.
Šiandien kakaip nesimiega ryte. Pabudau 8:37 ir negaliu umigti. Tad sakau sau, kad geriau laikas praleistas būtų bandant kaką skaityti, planuoti, rašyti laiškus nei beviltiškai bandyti umigti pavasario saulei šviečiant pro langus.
Nupėdinau į virtuvę, kur guli naujasis "gadetas", maas tamsiai mėlynos spalvos Samsung NP-NC10 notebook laptopiukas. Jį ištyrinėjau, mat nusprendėme, jog ryšį su pasauliu norime palaikyti ir bekeliaudami, bet reikia lengvos priemonės tam tikslui. Kad kelias neprailgtų visuose lėktuvuose, keltuose, autobusuose, mašinose ir kitose transporto priemonėse jau turim didiulės atminties ipod``ą, kuris mus linksmins kelionių metu. Liko tik vienas svarbus dalykas mūsų prekių saraše - fotokamera. Jos paieškos dar tesiasi. Prieš keletą dienų labai sėkmingai pardaviau savo vestuvinį kimono su raudonais obuoliais, tai gautos pajamos labai pravers kameros paieškose.
Negaliu patikėti, kad jau turime bilietus! Andis penktadieni aplankė mūsų kelonių agentą, Beną, kuris pagaliau sudėliojo takus ant "i". Tad turime kelionės iklotinę, kuri apima kelionę po Nepalą-Kiniją-Tailandą-Laos-Vietnamą-Kambodą-Australiją-Naująją Zelandiją-Fidi-Argentiną. O toliau - įsivaizduokite patys (mama, nenusigąsk!), nes mes bilieto atgal neturime. Mylių nepakako ir nusprendėme atgalios bilietą vėliau įsigyti. Gal ir gerai, nes planavome keliauti iki pačios Meksikos, kur dabar kiaulių gripas siautėti pradėjo. Dabartinės mintys sukasi aplink inaryma Pietų ir Centrinės Amerikos ir jei gripo situacija pagerės, tai usuksim ir i Meksiką.Beveik visus skiepus susiorganizavau. Liko tik maliarijos reikalai, geltonoji iltinė ir pasiutligė (skamba kaip egzotikų kokteilių meniu). Juos reikės tvarkytis atskirai, nes tai mokami skiepai ir vaistai. Anglijoje tai tokios kelionės yra geras biznis, nes yra internetinės kelionių ir kelionės reikmenų parduotuvės, agentai, atskiri medicinos punktai, kurie visada turi pilnas kienes patarimų (pvz. www.nomadtravel.co.uk), kursai, kurie moko savyginos kelionių metu, kaip pakuotis lagaminus, kad ilgapirčiai nieko gero nenukniauktų ir panaiai.Vizoms nuotraukų reikės, tad kitą savaitę leksime į ilgą fotosesiją prie kameras pasimaivyti. Paskaičiavom kad abiems reikės apie 60 nuotraukų. Tad reikės atrasti fotografą, kuris mums gerą nuolaidą suorganizuotų.Darbe bosui jau praneiau apie savo planus, kas jam buvo netikėta, bet čia visi savo reikalais rūpinasi, tad i jo didelės reakcijos nesulaukiau (o taip norėjosi intrigos!).
Hello there, Finally we are happy to announce that we have got the plan together! All the travel plans and arrangements are starting to move slowly. Andy bought tickets last week from London to Argentina (no ticket back, you are right. Mums, please do not worry!).
We will get the return tickets later as at the moment the situation in Mexico (swine flue) is not clear and we planned to leave for home from Mexico City. This will get sorted later. At the moment we are happy with the tickets and the following step is arranging visas and getting prepared for the journey. Here is a list of the countries we are planning to visit (at the end the result might be completely different):
It actually feels quite strange with a spice of loneliness and excitement as days go by and we are packing up our processions, selling furniture, giving a new home for my 1960’s ladies bike. Everyone is really happy for us going to do the long and amazing probably once in a life time journey. Parents are happy and worried at the same time as they think of all the potential dangers in our way. I am just thinking of malaria at the moment :-o Malaria and how to avoid it without taking too many pills!
On 25th of June at 6pm I am having a work leaving drinks in Platform Tavern with my colleagues and then leaving Southampton in a few days and moving to live and relax for couple of weeks with Andy’s family in Leicester which I cannot wait for!
Sveiki,
Siandien ketvirtadienis, savaites vidurys ir saltas vasaros Anglijoje pavyzdys. Ir vel rasau musu dienorasti, tik si karta be lietuvisku raidziu, nes rasau per pietu pertrauka budama darbe. Vakar visiems bendradarbiams pranesiau, kad isvykstu ir vaje tu mano!
Visa diena nieko negalejau dirbti, nes kas 20 minuciu vis koks liudnas snukelis prieina prie mano darbo stalo ir uz mane dziaugiasi ir liudi kad iseinu. Sveikina visi lyg kad buciau milijona laimejusi, o juk mes su Andziu pinigelius leisim, bet aisku, kad daug kam noretusi tokios laisves ir tokiu nuotykiu, tik ne visi drysta vat taip, viska palikti ir isvykti su mylimu zmogumi aplink pasauli keliauti. Ka cia bepasakysi, paglosto savimeile tokios akimirkos.
Si sekmadieni, 14 birzelio, vaziuosime i Londona ir ten ramiu pietu metu su draugais susitiksime, plepesime, tauskesime ir atsisveikinsime kokiems metams. Galvojam i koki ispaniska restoraneli nueiti, kad butu triuksminga, pigu ir smagu su draugais pasibuti!
Biurzelio 25 diena, paskutine savo darbo diena (ketvirtadieni) kvieciau savo 300 bendradarbiu (ir tai dar tik 10& visos organizacijos) iseiti su manimi gerimeliu i taverna, tad turetu buti smagu su visais pasibendrauti ir kitokioje aplinkoje pasibuti, nes darba cia visi labai oficialus, diplomatiski ir griezti.
Birzelio 30 diena mes isvaziuosime pas Andzio tevus ir ten su jais pagyvensime pora savaiciu iki isvykimo. Pas juos ir savo daiktus susidesime palepen. Zodziu bus smagu. Daug ruosos, bruzdesio, zmoniu ir veiklos. Labai laukiu tu dvieju savaiciu, nes tuomet galesiu siek tiek atsipalaiduoti ir isijausti I ideja, kad mes jau isvykstam, kad viskas realu, kad jau turim Australijos ir Kinijos vizas ir man tik vieno skiepo nuo pasiutliges tetruksta!
Vienas bendradarbis, kuri uzkreciau savo stiliaus suvokimu ir meile batams paprase kad kai kada atsiusciau pasaulio batu reportaza, ka labai ir ketinu daryti, manau kad tai nereali ideja, tad batu reportazu bus! Garantuoju. Turiu nuostabia SLR kamera, tad be galo be krasto ja noriu naudoti ir ja dziaugtis bei visa pasauli isfotografuoti, kad ir jus mano kelionemis galetumete pasidziaugti ir su manimi keliauti.
Buciuoju ir iki kito laiskucio xx
P.S. galite mums palikti komentaru siame puslapyje (message board) ir prasau tai daryti!
As we are departing for Kathmandu (Nepal) on 16th July 2009, it is exactly a month left until we go!
(In Lithuanian) Mes isvykstame i Katmandu (Nepalas) 16-ta liepos, tad dabar yra tiksliai 1 menuo iki isvykos!
It is already a second day we are in Cropston, at Andy's parents which is great. No work, sleep as long as you can, summary breakfasts (milk, yoghurt, strawberries and other stuff). Andy would list here the charms of traditional English breakfasts but I will skip those.
First task in the morning was a visit to the Leicester fish market which impressed us with its fish selection. After we purchased 2 giant mackerels and some stuff for salad we headed to the wave pool for a splash but it was closed (not possible to compare to Southampton where all the public facilities are open 9am-5pm at least), got some bbq stuff at the shop, made a huge lunch at home.
I snoozed in the garden after lunch and then dinner came! You know. Holiday mode is already on I think... After fishy dinner we headed to the Bradgate park for a cycle and saw loads of deer whilst cycling through the huge park in the late evening.
Lazy days pass so quickly, guys! All the week of packing and a hectic day of moving seems so far far away now... Though I must admit, I do hate moving. It would perfect if all the "stuff" could be just teleported to the new location;-)
LIETUVISKAI
Jau antra diena kaip sedime pas Andzio tevus. Dykaduoniaujame ir ilsimes. Man dar nesijaucia kad atostogos. Atrodo, kad tik pora laisvu dienu pasiemiau, bet tos dienos - fantastika kai pagalvoji, kad apie metus nedirbsiu jokio rimto darbo;-)
Toks gyvenimas labai pageidautinas. Rytoas prasidejo vasariskais pusryciais - miusli su braskemis ir kitais gardumynais, tada vizitas i Lesterio zuvies turgu, kur nusipirkome silkes, veliau taip gardziai sukepusios ant kepsinines vakarienei. Apsilankeme parduotuveje, vazinejomes dviraciais parke, ziurejome i simtus stirnu, kurios tame parke ganesi, zodziu - pasaka. Tuo ir dziaugiuosi ir noriu tik tai kvepti, atsipalaiduoti ir galvoti, kad ne kiekvienam mirtingajam tokie dziaugsmai yra lemti.
Just 3 days until we leave now (Thursday 16th) and we have everything ready, though not 100% packed. I am on antibiotics at the moment due to a nasty tooth removal last week. Other than that, it's really nice to be in Cropston with mum & dad and to spend time with people up here. I'll miss everyone whilst we're away.
Ketvirtadienio rytas, ka tik atsikeleme, nusiprauseme, dabar rasome laiskus, dedames daiktus, kuriu reikes ateinanciais metais ir kuriu nereiks. Tie nereikalingi keliaus i Andzio tevu namo palepe;-)
Visi klausia:
-Ar jaudinates?
O tiesa pasakius iki siandien ryto dar nesijaudinome, nes viskas atrode kaip pasaka, netikra, tik siandien kazkaip keista, nes jau dedames daiktus, nes jau 6 val isvaziuosime i oro uosta ir 9.30 vakaro skrisime i Katmandu (Napala) per Deli (Indija).
Mano 3 didziausi norai Nepalui yra:
1. paragauti daal bhaat (lesiai su ryziais, tradicinis vegetariskas patiekalas, kuriuo vietiniai minta kasdiena);
2. Aplankyti aisktes Katmandu centre (kaip Dubar aiskte);
3. Pasivaikscioti Himalaju takeliais (turiu suplanavus 2 galimus kelius).
Stengsiuosi kad tu noru butu ne per daug, nes norisi ikvepti salies dvasios, pamatyti zmones, isgirsti juos ir pajusti koks yra gyvenimas ten.
Visu labai pasiilgsiu!
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Thursday morning and we just woke up and are getting ready packing the last bits to go on the loft, having haircuts, drinking lots of milk for breakfast as we might not have it for 2 months or so.
Everyone was asking not long ago if we are nervous or exited and we weren't actually. We felt like nothing is going to change, like our lives would just simply continue with all this rest and bicycle rides, dog walking in the country, etc. Now it all feels so much more real...
We listened to many stories, seen videos, hundreds and hundreds of photos, got lots of recommendations from everyone (thanks guys!) and are now off to experience it ourselves.
We will be flying at 9.30pm to Kathmandu through Deli tonight. We are staying in the Tibet guest house Keith S. has recommended (Keith, thank you!).
I will miss you all, guys!
Hello,
Renata: We arrived safely and are going to have dinner at our guest house which is lovely. We had a quick walk in the streets, saw some butcheries which do not encourage to be a carnivore, it seems that meat, some fur and bones, all go into a meal:-o Though we haven't had any food just yet.
The landscape already looks beautiful, even if we are in the capital of the country with 27 millions citizens (2 millions living in Kathmandu). It is very green and lush here, managed to see some flowers near the airport, hopefully more nature when we head of to Pokhara.
Andy: The weather here is a really pleasant 27degrees or so... not too hot but very warm. There doesn't appear to have been much rain yet this monsoon season, though i'm sure we'll encounter it soon. We've just been for a walk around Thamel, the tourist district of Kathmandu, which proved that my GPS watch requires some further calibration / user training in order to effectively navigate us back. I think i've cracked it now, but will test it with a very short walk next time. The traffic is crazy - very similar to Marrakech with people zipping up and down on scooters frantically sounding their horns. Off to get something to eat now. Take care back at home!
Hi all. Some Kathmandu pics here:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Kathmandu?feat=directlink
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Labukas visiemus,
Antra diena Katmandu ir jau turime bent kelias foto! Nuorada cia
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Kathmandu?feat=directlink
Note to Fiona E. - the amazing chocolate melted at this temperature. I still have it in my day pack but I might need to put it under the fan or smth to cool it down!
Tomorrow we are going to pictureque Pokhara on the coach. It might take a few long hours and we haven't arranged any accommodation, we will see what is on offer when we arrive. As we are not sure of our future location there mig=ht not be easy access to internet, so the updates might not be as regular as they were so far!
A note to Carl W. & Clive C. - the mini which torch came with a "man shoe" as my part of my leaving present was used tonight when the electricity disappeared for a few minutes!!!
Here are the pics from today's visit to Durbar square http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/KathmanduDurbarSquare#
Hugs to everyone <>!
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Rytoj anksti ryte, 6.30 val isvaziuosime turistiniu prabangiu autobusu i Pokhara. Kelione gali trukti 6 valandas ar net dvigubai ilgiau ir kadangi mes neturime uzsisake nakvynes siuo metu neaisku kur apsistosime ir ar ten bus (ir veiks) internetas. Tad ziniu is musu gali nebuti apie savaite ar dvi blogiausiu atveju.
Siandienos nuotraukos is Durbar aikstes yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/KathmanduDurbarSquare#
Apkabinimai ir bucinukai
(written jointly by Andy and Renata)
Regards from tranquil Pokhara.
The "luxury" tourist bus journy took around 7 hours with a few unexplained stops to get water, inflate or replace bus tire. We got a bottle of water, a paper and a lunch included into a ticket price. For the lunch we stopped for 30 min at the restaurant on the road. On arrival we had at least 4 touts fighting over us to take us a few hundred yards to a guesthouse, all wanting to take us to their preferred place where they would earn a commission. Renata had found a recommendation for a place called Peace Eye guest house in the Rough Guide so we asked to be taken there. We arrived and found it extremely pleasant and incredibly cheap - just 400rps per night which is around 2.80ukp. For that we get a spacious double room and ensuite bathroom, mountain views and a very friendly owner; as it is off-season, we are the only guests!
The difference between Pokhara and Kathmandu is stark - Pokhara is so much more chilled and green, with lush forests all around us. The town is right by a huge lake, where you can hire boats. Apparently at one end the lake disappears over a waterfall and into a cave, so we'll try not to lose the oars when we take one out tomorrow.
We found a great bar that sells ice cold beer and plays dub and blues. The barman has worked there all his life (with first visits when he was 1 month old) and it is his brother's place. It's the oldest bar in Pokhara, but that is only 25 years old.
Tomorrow we will get up early and climb up one of the nearby hills where apparently we can see breathtaking views of the region and the mountains. Not sure if we'll get there by sunrise but we'll aim to climb it before the sun gets too hot. It was at least 35 degrees this afternoon - in that heat the only sane thing to do is take it slow and drink ice cold beer.
Pokhara first pics at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/NepalPokhara
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Mes siandien atvykome i Pokara, "prabangiu" autobusu. Prabangus nereiskia naujas ir nereiskia su tualetu. Prabangus reiskia ne per daug stoteliu (vietiniai sustoja apie 15-20 vietu), prabangus reiskia oro kondicionavimo sistema, kas yra aukso vertes tokiame karstyje. Kelione uztruko apie 7 val su sustojimais vanbdens buteliu, padangos priputimu ar pakeitimu ir panasiai. Sustojome 30 min papietauti tokiame pakeles restoranelyje. Prabangus autobusas mums parupino po 1 litra svaraus mineralinio vandens, Nepalietiska laikrasti anglu kalba ir pietus buvo iskaiciuoti i bendra kaina, kas yra zavu. Keliones metu teko ir pamiegoti, lauke be galo karsta, apie +35 silumos. Sis menuo ir rugpjutis yra 2 karsciausi menesiai Nepale, tad mes slapstomes nuo vidudienio saules.
Pokara yra priesingybe dulketam ir duzgianciam smirdukiskam Katmandu. Cia gana tylu, labai jauciasi, kad ne turizmo sezonas (nes liuciu metas), nes sveciu namuose kur mes apsigyvenome esame vieninteliai sveciai. Kambario nuoma nakciai tik 12 litu! Nerealu. Mes nesiderejome, nors ir galima buvo, nes matant kaip cia zmones vargsta atrodo nezmoniska del lito skrudzu buti. Labai mielas hipiskas kambarys su atviru dusu vonioje, tad vanduo padengia vonios grindis.
Bandeme uzmegsti pokalbi su kitais keliauninkais, hipiais, nes ju visur pilna, bet kadangi mes ne hipiskai atrodome ir nesame dar apsiure bei be veltiniu plauku, tai jie mumis susidomejimo neparode. Mat kam cia ta svieziena reikalinga;-) Taio mes su Andziu nusprendeme kad infiltruosimes i hipiu tarpa - as pirksiu placias klouno kelnes, o jis apyrankes;-)
Rytoj ryte ketiname anksti atsikelti ir eiti Pokaros panoramos paziureti i kazkoki kalna. Ji uzlipti uztruks apie 3 valandas, tad mums reikia iskeliauti su ausra, kad nepatektume i vidudienio karsti.
Dabar rasau visiems si laiska ziuredama i Himalaju kalnyna saulei leidziantis. Fantastika! Vienas is geriausiu mano matytu gyvenima vaizdu ir nerealus jausmas, nes viskas yra tikra, o atrodo taip kaip i atvirute ziurint;-)
Pokhara first pics at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/NepalPokhara
Buciuoju xx
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/SarangkotViewingPoint1590mAbovePokhara
Andy: Today we got up at 4.37am and caught a taxi to the top of a minor mountain called Sarangkot where you can see the sun rise over the himalyas and also over the town of Pokhara and its lake. It was worth the early start as the visibility was good and the views stunning (pics will be up on picasa shortly).
After a 3hr walk down through jungle and past some friendly schooldchildren who followed us the rest of the way, we stopped for a delicious breakfast by the lake before heading back for a 3hr snooze.
Once the fiercenes of the sun had subsided, we took a boat out on the lake and are now back and about to eat dinner at our guest house. Tomorrow we will organize a trek up to Jomsom, at which point, those of you subscribed to email updates should get a bit of a break. On that note, if anyone is subscribed and needs help unsubscribing because they're getting too many alerts, just let me know and I will unsubscribe you.
Renata: Kaip kad Irmukas rase, gera pradzia yra puse darbo. Siandiena prasidejo gana anksti su musu sveciu namu saviinku bveldzianciu i duris 4.30 val. Jis mus pakele, nes jau musu lauke taksi i Sarangkot kalna. Uzvaziavom beveik iki pacios virsunes, tada kopeme likusia kelio dali kad sutiktume saule. Gana intensyvus tas kopimas. Saule. Kalnai. Zmones siulantys arbatas ir vandeni. Komerciska ta saules sutikimo vieta, bet to verta.
Po to leidomes zemyn staciais akmeniniais laiptukais, kas uztruko 2 geras valandas be sustojimo. Po to praejome pro mokykla ir sutikome mergaites, su kuriomis siek tiek paejejome. Zali zali ryziu laukai, upe ir ezeras, auksti snieguoti kalnai, gilios spalvos moterisku apdaru. Man net juokinga buvo, nes mes su apranga, batais sunkiai leidomes zemyn, o i virsu moteryte su 5-10 litru buteliu vandens kope su slepetaitemis;-) Vakarieciai yra patize, pasirodo!
News news news... We had a relaxing day today, walked by the Phewa lake (Phewa Tal), eat nice breakfast, got the trekking permits for the Anapurna area (Jomsom - Muktinath treck), saw buffalos bathing in mud (see pictures here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/WhereTheBuffaloRoam.
Yesterday we tough our landlord Chiran how to make rock cakes which he is going to include into his menu.
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Naujienos naujienos naujienos... Rytoj ryte 6 val issikrisime i Jomsom, kuris yra 3km aukstyje, tada eisime i kaimeli, 4.8km aukstyje ir tada leisimes zemyn, kas gali uztrukti apie 7-10 dienu, tad blogo nerasysime, nes nesitikime, kad internetas bus tuose kalnuose. Musu siandienos foto yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/home
Buckis xx
Hi everyone,
We got back on Wednesday from 5 days of mountain trekking. We took a plane from Pokhara to Jomsom, which is a 20minute flight up to 2800m. Jomsom is a kind of frontier town - the gateway to Mustang province. You can buy provisions and trekking gear there before heading out into the wild. From there a lot of people trek right around the Anapurna mountain range, but we only went as far as Muktinath, a town around 3800m up in the mountains. We decided not to bother with a guide or a porter (someone to carry the bags) and travelled light, with just a small backpack containing waterproofs and one change of clothes.
The first day we walked just 3hrs out of Jomsom to a village called Kagbeni, which was pretty deserted when we arrived. We managed to find somewhere that was open and would feed us and had rooms for us to stay the night. There we met some middle-aged Danish trekkers who were finishing their trek and heading back to Jomsom. For four Danish people they had six Nepalese staff - cooks, porters and guides, as well as six mules, so we felt like we were pretty hardcore by comparison, though they were doing a longer trek through more difficult terrain. We were feeling the effects of the high altitude and were already exhausted, so slept in Kagbeni that afternoon and evening and set out first thing in the morning.
Day 2 involved a lot of climbing as we headed up to Muktinath. It was hard work and the countryside is stark and imposing - massive mountains, valleys and canyons. The scenery doesn't change quickly and each village along the way is a few hours walk from the last, so we got into quite a steady walking routine. We reached Muktinath, drank some beer and apple brandy at the top, then headed down to a village a little lower down to spend the night. Guest house rooms in the mountains cost less than 1pound per night and are generally clean, but basic.
On day 3, we walked around 30km (mostly downhill) from Jarkot, back through Jomsom and down to a town called Tukche. The terrain was typically dusty and rocky and it was hot and windy. We stayed in a dive at Tukche - a really dirty, smelly guesthouse. There were others to choose from, but I stupidly accepted the first place we looked because I was so tired. Renata was not impressed ;-) But we learned a lesson and agreed on a process for guesthouse / hostel selection in future - we'll always review at least a couple of places and make our decision in private before returning to our selected lodgings :) In Tukche we met a traveller from California who seemed articulate and intelligent but had also voted for George Bush Jr twice. I was perplexed as he challenged many of my preconceived notions about people from the west coast.
On day 4 we left Tukche and headed for a village called Ghasa. Every village we passed had its own character and all of them grew loads of marijuana in any spare patches of ground. They claim it 'grows wild' but you can walk for 2 hours and not see a single ganja plant until you come within 10mins of a village, where suddenly it becomes ubiquitous. Sadly it's not in season yet. We passed a mule with a broken leg in one of the villages, which was very hard to look at... the bone was jutting through right below the knee and the poor mule was standing sadly and quietly, trying to balance on its three good legs as it was clearly in a lot of pain. I guess it would have been killed later somehow, as a mule with a broken leg isn't going to survive anyway. The monsoon finally arrived before we hit Ghasa and it rained all through the night.
Day 5 was a really tough day... trudging through torrential rain in a waterproof jacket which turned out to be less than waterproof (the lining had perished) and with really bad food poisoning... I'd been feeling ill for a few days, but on this day I felt terrible. On top of this, the monsoon had caused many mudslides and rockfalls and we were warned by a friendly local not to take our intended route but to take a detour along the old road to avoid being hit by boulders the size of cars. The scenery by this point was very different to the mountains - lush green with trees everywhere as opposed to the barren 'outback' of upper Mustang. By the time we made it to Tatopani, i was really ill and our selection of guesthouse was primarily made on the basis of it having a western-style ensuite toilet :( Renata seemed to have escaped the worst of the stomach bugs but had an eye infection, which she was treating with antibiotics and a cream we got from the local pharmacy. Her eyes were very puffy for a few days but they are much better now. Despite the minor health annoyances, we were still thrilled to be in such spectacular scenery and both enjoying doing so much walking.
On day 6 i woke up feeling slightly better, though very dehydrated. The rain had stopped and it was warm and cloudy - perfect hiking weather. We put on our damp clothes and made our way to Beni - around a 4hour walk - passing many more landslides which had blocked the road to Jeeps but were still passable by foot. About an hour outside of Beni, we were able to flag down a minibus and climb onto the roof, which already had 8 passengers on it. It was cramped, bumpy and hair-raising, but a fun ride. From Beni we caught a full-size bus back to Pokhara and also sat on the roof for the 5 hour journey. Much less crowded, but even more scary, as the bus was winding along mountain roads with sheer drops on one side and often had to swing wide, right to the cliff edge, to avoid fallen rocks and debris that blocked most of the road. Sometimes the bus would lean up to 40 degrees towards the cliff edge and we would all have to scramble to the other side of the roof to help rebalance it before it toppled over. We were assured by a local (also on the roof) that these buses were capable of leaning 45 degrees before tipping over, so to jump if we see it tilting 46degrees or more ;-) In the local paper when we got back, we read about a bus that had rolled off the cliff, killing and injuring many passengers.
Now we're back in Pokhara, which feels almost like home after all that walking and staying in strange places. Clean food and (occasionally) hot showers are a welcome change. We went to a local school today and will be going back there on Sunday to teach a computing lesson! We'll also be appearing on the local radio station on Tuesday on their tourism programme.
That's all for now. Photos are being uploaded and will be available very shortly at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Trekking
Thanks for all the comments left on the blog. We read them all and it's great to hear from everyone so please keep writing them. I'm afraid we haven't seen Joanna Lumley here, but some of the locals do know all about her :)
Dar pries isvykstant is Anglijos pasikalbejau gal su kokiais 5 zmogiukais, kurie arba gyveno Nepale, arba jame lankesi, tad kaip ir kas turejau gana nebloga suvokima kur mes issiruoseme. Visi minejo, kad bus kulturinis sokas. Na ka gi, atejau, pamaciau, nugalejau. Gal tas sokas ir butu buves, bet yra 2 "bet": 1. Kulturinio soko kaip ir nebuvo, nes panasu gyvenimo buda, paprastuma ir kartais net skurda jau esu maciusi keliaudama po Maroka; 2. Gal ir butu galima ta kulturini soka sukelti, bet mes kad ir kaip stengemes paragauti vietinio gyvenimo, fakto, kad esi turistas, nekalbantis nepalietiskai, nuslepti negali, tad ir gauni viska "turistiskai" pragauti: turistiskas bustas (vietinio tikrai nesinoretu, nes turistai megaujasi visur kitur neregeta prabanga: siltas dusas, vakarietiskas tualetas, muilas, tualetinis popierius), kainos irgi turistiskos, mazu maziausiai 2 kartus didesnes. Viena moteriske is manes norejo nulupti 8 litus uz vidutinio dydzio ananasa. Ir kad jau esu siek tiek apsitrynusi tai aiskiai suvokiau, kad tokiu kainu negalim moketi ir nemokesime. Tad mokausi taktiskai deretis. Cia derejimasis turi buti protingas, nes kartais kaip ir nera del ko deretis, nes kalba eina apie lita ar kita, kartais deretis butina, nes prasoma kaina yra 10 kartu didesne uz tikraja.
Visuose bustuose, kur buvom apsistoje tarakonai yra norma. Ju nebuvo tik auksciau kalnuose, bet Katmandu ir Pokaroje jie kaip ir privalomas aksesuaras. Katmandu tai pratinausi tarakona, bet Pokaroje (kur esame dabar apsistoje) tai neiskenciau, nes pamaciau 2, nykscio dydzio, tad teko abu su pipirmetes skysciu (skirtu pedoms) papurksti, o po to dar viena pritvojau Andzio batu. Pasirodo nykscio dydzio tarakonelis besas su ilgais ilgais useliais ir geltonu pilviuku!
Man be galo patinka zodis "namaste", nes jis reiskia labas / ate / aciu. Jau ji praktikuoju antra savaite ir nusprendziau kad reikia keltis i kita lygmeni ir pramokti daugiau nepalietiskai.
Nepalo sostineje Katmandu gyvena hindu Kumari Ghar, gyvoji dievaite, kuriai yra 4 metai. Ja dvasiskiai isrenka is budistu seimos ir patalpina Katmandu centre esancioje Kumari name, kur ja reguliariai lanko mokytojai. Ji bus Kumari (gyvoji dievaite) iki pirmuju menesiniu, tada ji bus isleista i "pensija" ir valstybe jai mokes kuklia pensija iki jos gyvenimo pabaigos. Ir rinks nauja Kumari is budistu seimos. Anksciau Kumari negalejo susikurti seimos, nes pasak legendos Kumari vyras mirs anksti. Dabar modernioje visuomeneje kai kurios Kumari yra susikurusios seimas.
Valgyti Nepale reikia desiniaja ranka, nes kairioji turi reputacija kaip "nesvari" ranka. Pastaba - visuose tradiciniuose "tupimuose" tualetuose nera tualetinio popieriaus, o tik kibirelis vandens. Apsiplauti. Desiniaja ranka galima laikyti puodeli su gerimu arba stikline;-)
Tradicinis yra vaizdas - maza mergaite, nesanti siek tiek mazesni broliuka ar sesyte. Kartais tarp ju nera didelio amziaus skirtumo, bet Nepale yra gili nesiojimo tradicija (kaip kad matysite is mano nuotrauku). Zmones yra nesiku tauta ir tuo didziuojasi. Nesikai yra vadinami "sherpa" ir jie gali panesti 2-3 uz juos pacius sunkesnius nesulius. Daznai sherpos yra vyrai, bet kasdieniniuose darbuose esu maciusi labai daug moteru nesanciu ypac sunkius daiktus: 3 kibirus cemento, didziulius glebius zoliu bei sieno ir panasiai. Turistai samdosi sherpas, kad jie nestu turistu perkrautus krepsius. Mes masteme kad butu saunu tureti sherpa ar gida ir taip suzinoti siek tiek daugiau bei paremti liaudi, bet po to nusprendeme, kad yra kazkaip zavu paimti ir nukeliauti sita kelione patiems, be gidu ar sherpu, tiesiog pasiklausiant vietiniu, kurie yra labai malonus ir paslaugus.
Nepalieciai yra be galo grazus zmones. Labai tauriu bruozu, panasus i musu stereotipini mongalu portreta, tamsios odos, isdidzios veido israiskos, gana smulkaus sudejimo zmones. Vyrai rengiasi gana europietiskai: vyresni su marskineliais ir kostiuminemis kelnemis daznai vaisktineja, o moterys daug konservatyvesnes - tradicinis apdaras yra gana populiarus, kas siuo metu laiku yra ilga bliuzele su apvalia kaklo iskiprte, trumpomis rankovemis ir placios kelnes, staiga siaurejancios ties pedomis, arba ilgas, kulksnis siekiantis, sijonas. Moterys cia panasios i geles, megsta ryskias, sodriai gaivias spalvas, kartais labai margus audinius. Spalvos visada yra derinamos tarpusavyje.
Beskaitydama vietini laikrasti angliskai "The Kathmandu Post" pastebejau, kad lygiu teisiu apraisku cia dar nera ir ilgokai reiks palaukti kol jos atsiras. Laikrastyje esantys darbo skelbimai is karto apibrezia kokios lyties ir amziaus kandidatas yra ieskomas ir tampa aisku, kad moterims virs 30 metu rasti darba pagal skelbima turbut neimanoma, ypac jei norima specializuotis ne tradiciskai moterikose rolese. Cia moterims siulomi darbai prasideda sekretore ir baigiasi mokytoja.
Dabar grizkime prie musu keliones, kuira planavau keleta menesiu. Mes vakar (29 liepos) grizome is ilgokos keliones po kalnus, kaimelius ir kitokias plynas vietoves. Grizome ten, kur kelione pradejome, i Pokhara. Kelione pradejom 24 liepos, tad keblinejome po smeletas ir zalias vietoves 5 dienas. Is Pokaros skridome i Jomsom mazu 145 vietu lektuveliu ir tada prasidejo kelione atgal i Pokara pesciomis.
Sunku yra tiksliai pasakyti koki atstuma mes nuejome, nes buvo apylankos, vietiniu isminti takeliai ir keliai, bet speju kad nuejome apie 100km, kas mums yra daug, kadangi nesame labai iprate tokius atstumus kopti. Kelias irgi buvo labai skirtingas, nes pradejome nuo vejuoto ir sauso Jomsom, ejome iki musu auksciausio tasko (3800m) Muktinat, kas yra kopimas i sausa kalna, gana status kelias karsta diena, kazkur +35 - +40 karscio. Po to kelias pakito i slenius, zalius ir dregnus, kitokia augmenija, po dienos eme lygi, nes prasidejo liuciu sezonas, kuris siais metais i Nepala atejo paveluotai.
Bet apie viska detaliai:
24 liepos (penktadieni) - skrydis is Pokaros i Jomsom (truko apie 20 min, bet is pradziu buvo atidetas, nes Jomsom buvo debesuota, o nusileidimo takas yra labai trumpas, tad matomumas turi buti idealus). Atskride i Jomsom nusprendeme atsipalaiduoti ir saves nepersunkti prima diena, tad nuejome iki Kegbeni miestelio (apie 7 km), kuris buvo panasus i vaiduokli, nes dabar ne sezonas, tad niekas turistu nelauke. Mums uztruko geroka pusvalandi kol radome namus, kur sutiko mums valgyti pagaminti. Apsistoje tuose sveciu namuose sutikome nyderlandieciu grupe, 3 zmones su 2 gidais ir 4 sherpomis bei 6 mulais, gabenusiais ju daiktus. Nyderlandieciai buvo suintriguoti musu ketinimu keliauti be gido. Vakara su jais praleidome sauniai. Valgeme dhaal baat, kas yra vietiniai ryziai ir zalokos spalvos lesiu skystimuku bei keliomis virtomis darzovemis ir raugintomis darzovemis. Idealus valgis alkaniesiems, nes jei dar nesi sotus tau atnes ir nemokamai papildys dhaal bhaat tol, kol klientas bus sotus.
25 liepos (sestadienis) - issiruoseme ryte apie 7 val is Kengbeni i Muktinat pro Khinga ir Jhargot kaimelius.Tai 11 km lipimo i statu kalna. Kadangi buvome be gido trumpo kelio nezinojome, tad ejome paciu sunkiausiu. Isseje pasiekeme vejuota ir sausa Muktinat. Uzsukome i uzeiga, isgereme Eversto alaus, sutikome maldininku grupe, kurie dzipu atvaziavo i sventykla ir savo maldas pabaige ketino vaziuoti atgal. Jie mus pavaisino obuoliu brendziu, kuri 50:50 atskiede vandeniu. Idomus toks geralas buvo. Negaliu pasakyti kad kur nors uzciuopiau obuoliu skoni, bet mus sis gerokai pralinksmino, nes pasikalbejome su skirtingais keliautojais. Is Muktinat nusileidome atgal i Jhargot permiegoti. Mateme saulelydi sededami ant sventyklos krasto. Apsistojome sveciu namuose, kur nakvyne mums abiems tekainavo tik 80 rupiju, kas yra kazkur 4 litai. Tai buvo kol kas pigiausia vieta, kurioje buvome apsistoje. Maistas geriausias nebuvo, nes kita diena paleido vidurius. Tikejomes pasitikti tekancia saule, bet gamta padare savo ir uztrauke debesis ant kalno, tad mes buvome debesyje ir jokios tekancios saules nemateme.
26 liepos (sekmadienis) - is Jharkot iskeliavome i Tukche per Eklebhatti, Jomsom ir Marpha. Ta diena nuejome toliausiai, kazkur virs 30 km. Kai sustojome Tukche pasikalbeti su senuku, jis mums apreiske, kad keliaujame per greitai jei tokius atstumus nueiname, bet mes tiesiog dziaugemes, kad kelias rieda i pakalne ir oras siek tiek dregnesmis. Tukche apsistojome kazkokioje dulkes renkancioje vietoje, kurios dabar net prisiminti nenoriu. Geras tas apsisto.jimas buvo tik tuo, kad gretimame viesbutuke sutikome toki dideli dideli ir auksta austa atsipalaidavusi jauna amerikieti, vardu Brandon, su kuriuo pakelbejome apie keliones bei kitka, nes jis vienas yra issiruoses keliauti 10 menesiu ir buvo savo keliones jau ipusejes, tadf mes is jo kelioniu patirties ir ikvepimo siek tiek pasisememe bei kartu sunaikinome 6 dhaal bhaat porcijas. Beja, nepalieciai valgo dhaal bhaat pusryciams, pietums ir vakarienei.
27 liepos (pirmadienis) - Tukche - Kobung - Kokkethanti - Lete - Ghasa (apie 15 km). Tukche skendejo ruke kai mes issiruoseme i kelione, bet judeti reikia, nes musu dulketasis viesbutukas nebuvo vieta, kur noretume apsistoti ilgam. Netrukus eme dulksnoti ir po valandos kitos prasidejo vadinamasis "monsoon" (liuciu sezonas, Nepale besitesiantis 2 menesius). Mes zinojome ko tiketis ir buvome tam pasiruose jau isvykdami is Anglijos. Liuciu sezono metu yra ir daug privalumu - zemesnes kainos, nes ne sezonas, gaivi ir ryski gamta, viskas zydi. Taciau minusai yra zymus - lietus gali testis visa diena, yra apniuke ir slapia. Mes siaip ne taip atejome iki Ghasos vos vos besigraibydami ruke, vengdami klampaus purvo ir pereidami tiltus, kuriu pabaigos nebuvo matyti is ruko (zr musu Trekking fotograpijas, karves ruke idealiai atspindi ora ir musu busena). Keliauti tokiu sezonu butu visai neblogai jei ne vakarietisku poziuriu varganos salygos. Visi kaimelio viesbutukai negali pasiulyti silto vandens, nes jie vandeni sildo saules energija, tad jei nera saules, nera ir silto vandens. Jie neturi zidiniu ar kitu sildymo mechanizmu, kurie padetu isdziovinti kiaurai permerktus drabuzius, tad ryte vel tenka autis slapokais batais ir vilktis slapius drabuzelius.
28 liepos (antradienis) - Ghasa - Totepani (10-15km). Musu greitis suletojo, nes purvo ir uolu nuosliauzos pagrindini kelia paverte i pavojinga juosta. Vietiniai sherpos mums patare eiti kita upes puse, kas isvengtume purvo nuosliauzu (Trekking nuotraukose yra pavyzdziu). Totepani pasiekeme gana isvarge, nes visa diena ejome lietuje. Buvome slapi ir pavarge, tad po salto duso ir vakarienes kritome i lova.Totepani garseja savo siltosiomis versmemis, kurios turi gydomuju savybiu. Kadangi keliavome be didziu krepsiu ir neturejome pasikeisti apdaru, negalejome ismeginti versmiu, nes moterys turi buti apsirengusios kai mirksta tuose vandenyse, o as neturejau nei ilgo sijono nei maikutes (nepalieciai netoleruoja nuogumo demonstracijos).
29 liepos (treciadienis) - Totepani - Beni - Pokara. Kadangi prasidejo liuciu sezonas mums teko pakoreguoti mus planus ir vietoj keliones i Birethantti pasukti i Beni, kas yra arciau ir gelbetis nuo lietaus vaziuojant autobusu i Pokara. Is ryto nelijo, tad apie 8 val papusryciave (saldi balinta arbata, skrebutis, uogiene ir virtas kiausinis) issiruoseme i kelia. Beni nuo Totepani yra kazkur 3 val kelio. Mes tikejomes pakeliui pasigauti dzipa, kuriuo greiciau pasiektume Pokara, bet kadangi kelias vietose buvo uztvindytas dzipu buvo nedaug ir daugelis ju per pilni. Likus apie 1 val kelio iki Beni man pavyko isiprasyti ant mikroautobusiuko stogo, kuriuo ir pasiekeme Beni. Uz toki trasnporta sumokejome 7 litus uz du zmones. Beni greitai susiorganizavome autobusa ir pradeje sneketis su Katmandu gyvenanciu nepalieciu gidu (kuris gidavo toki nekalbiu prancuza, kuri as kazkodel noriu vis vadinti Paskaliu) issiaiskinome, kad ant autobuso stogo daug geresni vaizdai. Uzsiropsteme ir mes. Kai isvykome is Beni at stogo jau sedejo apie 10 pakeleiviu ir 3 is ju buvo turistai (mes ir tylusis Paskalis). Kelione ant stogo buvo vienas is ispudingiausiu momentu mano gyvenime. Gal del to, kad rizikinga, gal del to kad tai buvo 5 val praleistos su vietiniais, gal del abieju priezasciu. Kadangi sedejome ant metaliniu strypu man jau ant subiniuko ir nugaros yra melynes, bet tas smagumas to vertas. Kol isvaziavome toliau nuo Beni buvo gana baisu, nes autobusas vaziavo keliu, ant kurio buvo daug purvo nuosliauzu, tad kartais jis pasvirdavo apie 30 laipsniu kampu link skardzio, o mes visi lekeme i priesinga puse, bandydami siek tiek subalansuoti svorio centra... Zodziu, buvo be galo smagu. Atvykus i Pokhara mus pasveikino jau daznas svecias - lietus. As kaip visada budama isitikinusi, kad galiu rasti kelia i musu sveciu namus is autobusu stoties ir sutaupyti siek tiek musu pinigeliu, istempiau Andi i lietu ir prasidejo misija "rask ta vieta". Po kazkur 15-20 min intensyvaus zingsniavimo per lietu ir ruskano Andzio veidulio mes pasiekeme sveciu namus ir isvydome linksma ir svetinga musu seimininko Chirin veida. JIs mus greitai uzvede i kambari ir ne neklauses atsiunte savo vaikus su musu krepsiais. Po 10 val intensyvios keliones ir keliu slapiu dienu buvome siek tiek pavarge ir jis tai aiskiai isskaite musu israiskose.
Siandien, 30 liepos (ketvirtadieni) nieko daug neveikiame. Esame siek tiek pavarge su skaudanciais pasturgaliais nuo tos ispudingos keliones ant autobuso stogo. Buvome issikrapste i miestelio centra nusipirkti pargindiniu reikmenu, kuriais tapo tualetinis popierius, svarus geriamas vanduo ir dantu pasta. Musu seimininkas, Chirin, siandien gamins mums vakariene (spekit ka? Ogi dhaal bhaat!) apie 7 val, tad taupomes ir laukiame vakarienes. Mes jam duosime ivairiu receptu, kuriais jis gali paivairinti savo meniu, tad Nepale gali atsirasti ir lietuvisku patiekalu valgiarasciuose!
Visu labai pasiilgau, bandau sudeti patirtis i viena teksta, bet tai yra gana sunku nupasakoti ir juk dar tik 2 savaites, kai pradejome keliauti, tad smagumas dar tik prasideda. Po dar vienos savaites Nepale skrisim i Kinija per Tailanda, tad Tailande praleisime gal kokias pora dienu ir tada organizuotas 21 dienos turas Kinijoje (Beijin - Hong Kong). Turetu buti be galo lengva, nes bus gidas ar bent keli gidai, tad mums tik reiks klausyti ir nieko daug patiems nereiks organizuotis. Niekada nesu buvusi tokiame ilgame organizuotame ture, tad nekantriai laukiu.
Foto yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/trekking#
Buckiai xx
After all the busy and hectic Kathmandu experiences and 6 day trekking in Nepal we decided to be lazy for a few days and just stay in Pokhara not doing much. It is amazingly surprising how much you can sleep in the mornings and snooze after having some chicken momos (local dumplings)! Tomorrow we are going to teach a computer science lesson at a local secondary school to year 9 pupils and on Tuesday we are invited to Pokhara radio as guests! So we must improve our Nepali as we were requested to sing in Nepali;-)
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Po tarskancio ir bruzdancio Katmandu, po 6 dienu vaiksciojimu Himalaju kalnuose mes nusprendeme pabuti tingineliais ir patingeti Pokaroje nieko nedarydami. Net negalima isivaizduoti kiek galima miegoti rytais ar koks ilgas gali buti popietinis pogulis uzkandus vistienos momo (koldunu). Rytoj mes esame pakviesti i mokykla vesti informatikos pamokos 9-tokams, o antradieni esame pakviesti i vietini Pokaros radiju kalbeti kaip kviestiniai sveciai. Radijo sou vedejas pageidavo kad mes padainuotume liaudiska nepalieciu daina radijuje, tad reiks mokytis:-)
This morning started with a successful attempt catching a local bus for 13 rupees (10p) and going to the local radio station, Pokhara FM. We were invited by the teacher at the school we spent a few days at to be guests for the tourism programme. We learned folk Nepali song and sang it on the radio as well as chatted about travelling in Nepal, our impressions on Pokhara, etc.
A few new photos are here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/RandomNepalPokhara#
Carl, Clive & Wendy, there are no reports about the Nepali shoes but I am going to get some images in Kathmandu and Pokhara has only rubber flip-flops;-) I am definately going to create shoes of the world album for you, guys!
Peter P, Andy C, David H., Keith S. Ian and others - thank you so much for sharing your impressions about Nepal, your time, giving the emergency contacts (luckily we did not need to use them but it was very comforting to have them, just in a case). It was really helpful to visit the recommended places and enjoy them (like the Tibet Gust House). I can highly recommend the Peace Eye Guest House in Pokhara as it is great!
Trekking was one of the best experiences so far and I am really happy we did it. Tomorrow we are off to Kathmandu and on Friday we departure to Bangkok for a couple of days and then - a month in China!
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Musu laikas Nepale eina i pabaiga. Siandiena prasidejo musu kelione i vietine radijo stoti uz 40 centu (ir 15 minuciu), tada pradejom radijo laida liaudiska nepalieciu daina "Resom Piriri" (apie biteles), kuria ismokom vakar vakare su Chiran (musu seimininko sveciu namu, kuriuose apsistojome) pagalba.
Rytoj ryte, 7 val isvaziuosime autobusu i Katmandu. Kelione uztruks apie 7 val, tad triuksmingame Katmandu busime tik po pietu. Penktadieni isskrendame i Bankoka porai dienu, o tada - menesiui i Kinija.
Didziausi ispudziai is Nepalo yra vaikstinejimas Himalajuose, ka visiems rekomenduociau, ypac del to, kad Nepalas yra labai pigus ir tai galima daryti patiems, be gidu ir net be nesiku. Nepalieciai be galo grazus ir svetingi zmones. Tureciau pridurti kad jie be galo megsta deretis, tad mums lietuviams tai nesvetima;-)
Siandien karsta, mazu maziausiai +35 silumos pavesyje, tad mes slepiames nuo saules sededami kavinukeje, gerdami alu ir sokoladini lassi (buivolo pieno jogurtinis gerimas). Tuo pat metu daug daug pralaituojame.
Prakaituoti apkabinimai visiems skaitantiems
Linkejimai Juratei ir Vladui, kurie mums parase is Barselonos!
We're stopping over in Bangkok for 2 nights on our way to Beijing. Given the short time we are here, we decided against hauling our backpacks around a bunch of the backpacker 'fleatpits' - as they are delightfully described in guidebook - and opted for a couple of nights of luxury. We have a suite in a 5 star hotel, next to some top nightclubs and uber-cool shopping malls. Still very cheap compared to London but probably somewhat extravagant by Thai standards.
The last place we'd stayed in in Kathmandu had rats in the ceiling... they never came into the room but they kept us awake running up and down during the night. We were a little concerned that one of the ceiling tiles might cave in and we'd be woken up by a rats and rat faeces cascading down upon us.
It wasn't until we got into our clean, air-conditioned suite that we realised how much all of our clothes stank. Kathmandu is pretty medieval and we had picked up some of that on our clothes and shoes. We washed all of our clothes in the bath and the water was a greeny-brown :-o Not sure what the maids will make of our drying clothes hanging everywhere in the morning but at least I'll be able to blog about it on the free Wi-Fi connection.
We enjoyed a fantastic thai meal in a restaurant up the road and then took a walk around. We settled in a German beerhall type bar and got talking to a lovely old German guy called Karl, who was a textile engineer who travelled all over the world with his job, helping various companies get their machines doing what they needed. His job reminded me very much of my grandfather's. Karl was so impressed and amazed at our travel plans that he insisted on picking up the bill. Spot on.
Tomorrow we hope to meet up with Tae, Tamsin's husband and a lifelong resident of Bangkok. But first we'll work out in the hotel gym and swim in the pool. For the last three weeks we've had cold showers and lived in dirt... voluntarily and gladly... but we're loving this oasis of luxury before we head into the wilds of China.
After a luxury couple of nights in 5 star hotel and a scary appearance of an elephant at night in the street in Bangkok we arrived to Beijing.
China greated us with easy passport control and temperature scanner at the airport. The T3 is very big and modern, service is efficient as everywhere so far. We will spend a month in China doing a Wild and Southern China tour with 10 other people. At the moment we are in Beijing. We chose to do that with GAP Adventures and so far we are exited having someone who organises and arranges stuff for us. His name is Michael Houng and he is lovely. It will be very different from our relaxed aproach to holidays but we are already getting a lot of information and at the same time trying to keep away from the main tourist areas.
Beijing is a huge city (population 15 mil) in a huge country (1,3 bil). The language sounds nice, though locals always seem angry when they speak as they always tend to shout and not really care about the other people around. The shopping experience was, let's say "different" at the Pearl Market we went today. The sellers tend to shout or speak loudly at you and easily grab your arm and pull towards their shop. The morning started with the China Great Wall at Mutianyu. was amazing experience and hard 3 hour walk. We took a toboggan down from the Great Wall which was an event itself.
Tomorrow we are heading off to X'ian by a sleeper train (pronounce Shian) for couple of days. The journey should be eventful as we have 15 hours on the train.
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Po netiketo bumbtelejimo i drambli vidunati triuksmingoje Bankoko gatveje ir 5 zvaigzduciu viesbucio pasilepinimo mes atvykome i Pekina.
Kinija mus pasitiko lengva pasu kontrole (nes vizas jau buvom pasirupine is anksto) ir kuno temperaturos skaneriu oro uoste, Terminalas 3 ispudingo dydzio, modernus. Mes Kinijoje ketiname praleisti menesi su grupe. Siuo metu esame Pekine. Tai pirmasis musu turas su grupe, tad esame gana atsipalaidave, nes nieko patiems nereikia aiskintis, orgainzuoti, uzsisakyti. Gido vardas Maikas Houng ir jis yra istabus gidas. Kol kas neturim jam jokiu priekaistu.
Pekinas yra didelis mietas (15 milijonu gyventoju) dar didesneje salyje (1,3 bilijono gyventoju). Siandien aplankeme didziaja kinu siena ryte, nuo jos nusileidome toboganu, kas buvo ispudinga patirtis. Nuolat atrodo, kad kinai piktai rekia, nes ju kalba ir zodziu prasme paremta intonacijomis ir jie nepaiso pasaliniu zmoniu. Prekintis mes nesiprekinam, nes taupom kiekviena lita, ypac po nakvynes Bankoke, taciau uzsukome i Perlu turgu, kur patyreme prekinimosi Kinijoje ypatumus. Pardavejos turi tendencija liesti pirkeja ar net griebti uz rankos ir temptis i savo krautuvele.
Rytoj mes isvykstame i X'ian (skaityti Shian), kur praleisime pora naktu. Kelione turi buti idomi, nes mes praleisime 15 valandu traukinyje su miegamosiomis kajutemis (dalijasi 6 zmones).
In Chengdu (SICHUAN district) there is a Panda Research and Breeding centre which we visited today. There I squeezed a first animal in the animal squeezing row - a giant panda! It was quite funny as the centre employees tried to keep it still and interested in food rather then me. It was cuddly, very hairy and funky squeeze!
Didziausias pasaulyje Buda (Leshan) ir Emei kalno bezdziones (15,16 rugpjucio)
Is Chengdu per pora geru valandu atvaziavome i Leshan pamatyti didziausios pasaulyje Budos skulpturos (71m aukscio). Vien Budos nosis yra 6 metru ilgio, o ausys - 7m (zr musu albume Leshan ir Emeishan fotografijas). Buda is toli apziurejome pasieme valti, o po to kopeme laipteliais i kalna ir apziurejome ji is sono. Uztruko visas reikalas gana ilgai, nes teko stoveti eileje prie Budos apziuros tasko apie 2 valandas, nes kinai neturi stovejimo eileje supratimo, kadangi visi brukasi i prieki daznai eile nepajuda is vietos. Po sio uzsiemimo uzkandome ir isvykome i Emeishan Baoguo sventykla.
Kita diena atsikeleme ir papusryciavome ka Patrikas buvo pagamines (sumustinius su keptu kiausiniu, kavos ir bananu doze) ir isvaziavome i Emei kalna, kuris yra izymus begalinemis sventyklomis ir Emei kalno bezdzionemis. Tosios bezdziones manosi, kad kalnas priklauso joms (zr musu Leshan ir Emeishan fotografijas) ir yra tiesa pasakius, gana naglos. Jos atimineja maista is zmoniu, uzlipa ant peties ir kol is malonumo apsales zmogelis dziaugiasi bezdziones artumu ji istyrineja zmogelio krepsio turini.
Ramuma Kunimng (17 rugpjucio)
Is Chengdu atskridome i Kunming lektuvu, oro uoste sutikome Kinijos rankinio komanda. Tai buvo nerealaus ugio kinai (ziureti musu fotografijas Kunming albume). Kunming daug ko neveikeme, tiesiog pasiilsejome, buvome iseje pasivaikstineti mieste ir prisipirkome ivairiausiu zeliu (su apelsinais, bananais, braskemis, lyciais ir kitokiais idomumais).
Asiliena vakarienei ir kitokie egzotiskumai - Dali (18 rugpjucio)
Siandien autobusu atvaziavom is Kunming i Dali. Kelione uztruko apie 5 valandas. Tad i viesbutyi atvykome tik apie 3 val. Pusiaukeleje buvom sustoje pavalgyti ir aplankyti tualetus (ne tik is turistinio smalsumo). Kinu tualetai yra verti demesio. Intymumo ir privatumo ten su ziburiu nerasi. Tarp vadinamuju tualetu, t.y. skyliu grindyse yra siokios tokios pertvaros, bet tokios kad su kitais tualeto lankytojais gali pasisveikinti. Tualetai neturi jokiu duru, tad tualetinimosi patirtis visada yra be galo sociali: tupiu as, o pries mane tupi kas nors kitas. Vienas kita galime apziureti kaip reikiant.
Atvyke apsistojome Dali senamiestyje, labai zaviame viesbutuke. Tokio tikrai nesurastume patys, nemokedami kinu kalbos. Labai jaukus, svarus ir tradicinis kinu viesbutis su baseineliu ir jame plaukiojanciomis zuvimis bei vezliu.
Po poros valandu keblinejimo miestelio centre, apziurejome Er Hai ezera is tolo, kalnu peizazus, vietines sventyklas, pagrindine gatve, pilna siuvenyru ir 6.30 val vakaro susitikome su grupe ir musu gidu ir visi vorele ejome vakarieniauti.
Maistas Kinijoje yra ceremonija ir socialus vyksmas. Vietiniai zmones valgo gana daug ir greitai bei daug ir garsiai kalba. Niekas nesivarzo kitu, esanciu toje pacioje patalpoje. Mes sedejome prie apvalaus stalo, tad tradiciskai i viduri sunesamas maistas ir visi ji ragauja, dalijasi, dedamiesi po maza porcijike vienu metu i savo dubeneli. Vakariene pradejome ryziu ir slyvu vynu. Kvepia ne kaip, bet labai skanus ir stiprus gerimas. Vietinio alaus paragavome. Jis toks gelsvas ir lengvas. Tada stala eme plusti ivairiausi patiekalai - sojos pupeliu varske (tofu) su chili pipirais ir zuvimi, dziovintas tofu, kiniskas poras su dziovintais chili pipirais, triusiena su imbieru, mimi baklazanas padaze, vietiniu kalnu grybu sriuba su pak choi, lipnus virti ryziai ir... asiliena su cesnakais. Taigi be ziogienos jau esu valgiusi ir asilienos. Kas ne kas, bet kinai valgo viska, kas juda. Is dalies man patinka ideja, kad joks gyvis nera prastas - varles, ziogai, arkliai, kates, sunys, bezdzoniu smegenys, kiaules gerkle ir t.t. Musu gidas sitai paaiskino 1960-tuju badu, kai is bado ismire apie 17 milijonu kinu. Nuo to laiko ir dabar yra likes pasisveikinimas, kuris reiskia "ar tu valges?".
Hi All,
Due to hectic schedule and lack of internet access we've got quite behind on our photo uploads. Also i've had some problems with Picassa but i'm assured these photos are accessible even though i can't access them myself. If any of these links doesn't work, please let us know ASAP.
New photo albums (in chronological order)...
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/chengdupandasandsuchlike
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/kunmingaug2009
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/KathmanduReturnPatanDurbarSquare#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/thailandaug2009weekend#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/beijing911aug2009#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/xian1213aug2009#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/chengdupandasandsuchlike#
(Thanks to Matt H for pointing out the problem with the Kathmandu link - now fixed!)
Coming soon... wild monkey pictures :)
We had a very long and activities stuffed day today. Our itinerary held 25km cycling in the morning, visiting local Bai people market (just outside Dali city), tie dye factory, then a bus journey back (with our bicycles on the roof top), quick lunch and then a horse ride up the mountain.
Cycling was not too hard, I had a Chinese bike (what means no gears and low seat) and Andy cycled on a mountain bike. As all the cycling was done on the road I was quite happy with my choice really. The route itself was quite scenic but as it was main road we had to look out for the cars which signal all the time they overtake as, letting us know that they are behind us. This can be a bit frustrating sometimes as there is a lot of unnecessary noise.
The Bai people market was really nice: plenty of vegetables and meat as well as live stock (se photos).
The horse trek was the most difficult I have done in my life, so I was really impressed how well Andy did knowing that he is not really into horses and that kind of stuff. We did not have any helmets or other protective stuff. The trek was very steep, rocky, slippery, especially as it started raining when we reached the mountain. The horses did really well and they were exhausted and steaming when we got on the top of the mountain.
On the top of the mountain there was a temple we visited as well what was funny experience in itself. As soon as we entered the temple the monks gave us 3 insents each and told us to kneel 3 times. After that they took the insents away immediately and told us we have to sign a guest book. The book had a few sections for the name, country of origin, date of birth, a wish and a donation. As the previous visitor from Germany donated 100 yuan (£10) monk insisted I do the same. I disagreed and he lowered the donation amount to 50 yuan, then 20 and then 10. I wrote 0 yuan and gave the book to the monk. He found it hilarious and had a good laugh with his friend. I guess from now on he will be telling stories that Lithuanians are tight.
Coming down the hill on our short horses was more difficult then coming up as it was 40 degrees steep and I almost had to lay on my back whilst being sat on a horse. At one point when we were quite close to the bottom my horse slipped and I thought that he will fall down with me, so I let myself go and somehow rolled down from the horse and fell on the muddy slope. The fall was very lucky as I fell in front of the horse but didn't injure myself, did not break anything and got away with a brused knee. I got back on the horse when I was sure I am fine and made it down safely.
Photos of today's activities are being uploaded now and you should be able to find them here
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/dali18-19aug2009
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Siandiena buvo pilna visokiausiu uzsiemimu. IS pat ryto issinuomave dviracius myneme i netoli Dali esanti Bai genties kaimelio ryto turgu, po to i medziagu dazymo fabrika, tada sukrovemne dviracius ant autobuso stogo ir grizome i Dali, greitai papietavome ir isbegome jodineti arkliais.
Jojimas arkliais buvo pats ekstremaliausias koki esu bandziusi iki siol. Jojome be salmu i kazkur 40 laipsniu statumo kalna. Keliukai buvo siauri, slapi, sliduys, akmenuoti. Arkliai buvo stiprus ir mus uznese i kalno virsu bet kai sustojome galima buvo matyti juos garuojant ir gaudant kvapa.
Kalno virsuje buvo budistu sventykla, tad i ja pasmalsauti uzejome. Vos tik perzengeme slenksti prie musu priejo sventikas, i rankas ibruko 3 smilkalus kiekvienam ir isake klauptis 3 kartus, kaskart kai jis mus bugna. Taip ir padareme. Ziurime kas bus toliau. Ogi sako jis eitike ir pasirasykite musu sveciu knygon. Na ir nuejome prie staliuko salia Budos. O ten pateike mums knygele su uzpildomais langeliais: cardas, salis, gimimo data, noras ir aukojimo suma. Manasis sventikas pareikalavo, kad as aukociau tiek pat kiek pries mane besilankes vokeitis atseit yra paaukojes, t.y. 100 yua (40 litu). As sakau, kad neaukosiu, tada jis suma sumazino perpus iki 50, kaip atsisakiau jis ja sumazino iki 20 ir po to 10 yuan. As knygeleje irasiau 0. Jis pazvelge i knygele ir kazka susisnekejes su draugu vienuoliu eme juoktis, kaip suprantu jie turejo gera humoro jausma ir dabar pasakos visiems istorijas apie skrudzus lietuvius.
Joti nuo kalno buvo sunkiau, nes reikejo atsilosti atgal. t.y. beveik atsigulti ant nugaros besedint ant arklio kad nunukristumei priesais ji, kai jis l;ips 40 laipsniu staciu kalnu zemyn. Slaitas tebebuvo toks pat slidus ir arkliai slidinejo kaip reikiant. Mes jau buvome pajoje gera gabala kai mano arklys paslido, jo priekines kojos slido zemyn ir as pagalvojau kad jei jis virs as su juo risiuosi zemyn, tad atleidau vadeles ir ne pati nezinau kaip bet nusiritau nuo arklio ir plumptelejau priesais ji. Arklys jau atsistojes buvo ir ne nepajudejo is vietos. Mano nukritimas buvo be galo laimingas, nes nesusitrenkiau galvos, nieko nesusilauziau, tik isitaisiau didoka melyne ant kelio. Musu grupeje yra gydytoja, tad ji mane iskart apklausinejo, del to esu isitikinusi, kad man viskas gerai. Pasitikrinusi kad viskas funkcionuoja uzlipau ant arklio ir nusileidau i pakalne su grupe kaip ir sutrenkta del keistp nusiritimo nuo arklio, kaip ir laiminga kad tokia sekminga buvo mano kelione.
Siandienos nuotykiu fotografijos yra cia
(UPDATE - fixed link)
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/dali1819aug2009
Hello everyone,
It seems a bit unfortunate but it is a second day I am poorly with sore throat and some temperature (haven't measured how much exactly). I am taking Tylenol and sore throat medicine with a funny old man on a package, called "Golden Throat", so fingers crossed it helps!
Tomorrow our tour group is off for 2 days of hiking to Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hutia Xia), which is about 100km north of Lijiang. It is world's deepest canyon, set at the altitude of 2500metres with its south wall rising above 3000 metres. I think in total we are going to hike around 25 km. The hike will take 2 days to complete, so I am trying to get well and staying in bed all day today no matter what.
A few photos taken yesterday when we went out for a Won Ton soup lunch are here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/lijiangaug2009
I hope you are doing much better and have no cold or sore throat!
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Sveiki,
As sergu jau antra diena. Skauda gerkle ir turiu temperaturos. Geriu Tylenol and ciulpiu tabletikes, pirktas Kinijoje. Jos vadinasi "Auksine Gerkle", tad tikiuosi, kad mano gerkle taps auksine ir pagis greitai.
Rytoj musu grupe iskeliaus i 2 dienu kopimo tura i didziausia ir giliausia pasaulyje kanjona, siekianti 2.5km, o pietine siena net 3km. Is viso ketiname nueiti apie 25 km, tad as stengiuosi nieko nedaryti siandien ir visa diena praleisti lovoje, kad buciau geresnes formos rytoj.
Cia keletas vakar dienos nuotrauku, kai issiruosem pietums paragauti Won Ton sriubos
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/lijiangaug2009
Tikiuosi, kad jusu sveikata yra puiki!
Regards from Tiger Leaping Gorge! (for more info on the canyon see info below)
This afternoon we came back from the gorge after 2 days and 25km trekking, the link for the photos is below. No incidents, accidents on the way. Andy slipped on the wet mud and fell once and I pushed through my fever. I think that week's trekking in Nepal prepared us for this and we did not find the trek neither hard nor challenging. It was just a pleasant walk with quite a few very steep steps!
Tomorrow we will spend almost all day travelling as we are catching a bus to airport and then taking 2 flights to our next destination - Yangshuo (you can see our detailed travel map in Beijing photo folder).
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Linkejimai is sokancio tigro kanjono (manoma, kad jis yra giliausias pasaulyje)!
Siandien grizome po 2 dienu zygio. Taigi 2 dienoms ir 25km veliau raportuoju, kad nukeliavome ir grizome be jokiu siaubingu nuotykiu - tik grazus vaizdai, smagi kelione, ne per didziausia fizine itampa. Manau, kad savaites zygis i kalnus Nepale mus gerokai pralavino. Andis paslydo ir pargriuvo tik 1 karta, o as zygiavau su skaudancia gerkle ir temperatura.
Rytoj visa diena praleisime bekaliaudami: autobusu i oro uosta, po to 2 skrydziai Yangshuo (galite pamatyti detalu keliones zemelapi Pekino, Beijing, nuotrauku albume).
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Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hǔtiào Xiá) is a canyon on the Yangtze River locally called the Golden Sands River (Jīnshā Jiāng) located 60 km north of Lijiang City, Yunnan in southwestern China. It is part of the Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas World Heritage Site.
Around 15 km in length, the gorge is located where the river passes between 5,596 metre Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yùlóngxuĕ Shān) and 5,396 m Haba Xueshan (Hābā Shān) in a series of rapids under steep 2000 metre cliffs. Legend says that in order to escape from a hunter, a tiger jumped across the river at the narrowest point (still 25 metres wide), hence the name.
Tiger Leaping Gorge is a contender for the world's deepest river canyon, depending on the exact definition used. The inhabitants of the gorge are primarily the indigenous Naxi people, who live in a handful of small hamlets. Their primary subsistence comes from grain production and foreign hikers. The gorge is not considered navigable. In the early 1980s, four rafters attempted to go down the gorge and were never seen again. In 1986, the first known successful attempt to sail through the gorge was made by the first expedition to float down the entire length of the Yangtze, starting at the river's high source at the Gelandandong glacier lake.
The area was officially opened to foreign tourists in 1993, but had attracted adventurous backpackers already in the 1980s. Officials plan to improve the existing trails and roads, bringing tour buses and more development. These plans arouse highly varied reactions among the local population, from strong opposition to strong support.
(UPDATE - fixed links...)
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/dali1819aug2009
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/liajiangaug2009lijiang
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/tigerleapinggorgeaug2009tigerleapinggorge
Hi All,
Firstly, if anyone has tried to contact me on Facebook, please be aware that China doesn't do Facebook, or Twitter, or most blogging sites (getjealous seems to have slipped under the radar).
We have been in Yanghuo, China, now for a couple of days. I haven't seen as much of it as Renata as I was struck down with another stomach bug shortly after we left Lijiang and stayed in close proximity to our ensuite bathroom for most of the last 2 days. Renata went out on a group bike ride yesterday and saw the market where they boil and smoke dogs to eat. I was surprised to see on her photos that the dogs are quite small - i would have thought they would grow massive breeds for meat but it appears not.
Last night we went to see a performance on a lake coreographed by the director who was in charge of the Olympic opening ceremony. Thankfully this performance was not 12 hours long, but it did feature some 600 performers as well as some buffalo and cormarants. It was pretty cool if you're into that kind of thing but I was hoping for some fireworks at the end, which didn't happen.
Yangshuo is a beautiful town situated amongst strange looming 'mountains' which are like spikes/mounds that protrude from the earth at almost 90degrees and then flatten off at the top (see photos for example - hard to describe). There are loads of tourist activities on offer here, described below:
'Cormorant fishing' involves not fishing for cormorants, but rather fishing >with< the large sea-birds... tying a noose around the bird's neck that forces it to regurgitate the fish it catches once it lands on the boat and tries to swallow them. We passed on that one, though it comes highly recommended by some others from our group.
Hot Air Ballooning - We got up at 0530 to do this today... it was amazing, though far less comfortable than we imagined. We're not sure if it's just the Chinese baskets but we felt very cramped and when the flame was fired into the balloon (pretty much all the time) it was almost unbearably hot on the head, neck and back. That notwithstanding, it was a fantastic experience, particularly with the added danger of around 100 mini-mountains all around us to crash into. Somehow our pilot managed not only to avoid the mountains but also to land perfectly in the middle of a small road, where a van was waiting to collect us. In some ways, ballooning is similar to flying at low altitude in a plane, but the slower speed means you get more time to look at things... highly recommended!
Cave Diving - we'll do this later on today. Not exactly sure what it involves apart from that we go to some caves where there are freshwater pools and we swim around a bit and roll around in big pools of mud. Full report in due course.
Chinese Cookery - we're off to a little village tomorrow to do this. We'll spend 3 hours cooking, then eating, a variety of local dishes (hopefully not including dog hotpot).
Apologies that our updates have been a bit infrequent lately... our China tour has been mostly very hectic, cramming a lot of wonderful activities into our time and visiting lots of different places. In a couple of days we move to Hong Kong, where our tour ends. We will be staying there for another week, however, and our room will have WiFi internet access, so we should be able to post another update from there.
Photos:
(fixed links from Ren's previous posts... sorry about these - we can't test them in China so we just have post them up and hope they are right)
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Dali1819Aug2009#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/LijiangAug2009#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/TigerLeapingGorgeAug2009#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Dali1819Aug2009#
(new links...)
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/yangshuoaug2009#
Musu diena prasidejo 9.30 val kelione i turgu, kur apziurejome darzoves, vaisius ir mesos gaminius. Tada vaziavom i maisto gaminimo mokykla, kur gaminome 5 patiekalus - kiausiniu koldunus, kiauliena su darzovemis, vistiena su datulemis, troskintas salias darzoves, baklazana vietiniu stiliumi. Pagamine viska gavome suvalgyti pietums;-)
Nuotraukos yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/YangshuoAug2009#
Siandien vaziuosime naktiniu traukiniu i Hong Kong'a. Isvykstame po 7val vakaro ir Hong Kong'e turetume buti ryte.
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Today started at 9.30am in the local vegetable and meat market where we had a good look around and departured for the Yangshuo cooking school (in Chaolong village). There we cooked 5 dishes: egg wrapped dumplings, steamed chicken with mushrooms and dates, eggplant Yangshuo style, pork with vegetables and oyster sauce, green vegetables with garlic. All was really good and we had all the 5 dishes for lunch in the garden. Later on the bus drove us back to our hotel.
The photos from the lesson are here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/YangshuoAug2009#
This evening we will leave for Hong Kong at 7pm in an overnight train.
Hello there,
We are finally in Hong Kong after a night spent in an overnight train. Haven't seen much of the city yet, just arrived to the hotel which is very nice. We will go out for our last group dinner tonight and then group activities will be finished. We are planning to explore Kong Kong quite well as we have almost 10 days here, so we hope to visit Macao and other Hong Kong islands. Hong Kong is different to the mainland China and Facebook as accesible here and it is forbiden to spit! There is a fine ffor spitting! (In the mainland China public and very vocal spitting is very normal).
Another interesting detail about mainland China is children "toileting" anywhere in the streets/ Sometimes they do not wear trousers/skirts or have a big hole at that exact place. This surprises me everytime I see it. We will see if that applies to Hong Kong as well;-)
Just a few minutes ago we went out and got some stuff from bakery, so we don't feel so hungry before the group dinner. Bakeries here are pretty good. They even do sandwiches - what makes Andy really happy. In the mainland China all the sandwiches and bread we came accross were sweet.
Tonight after dinner at 6pm we are planning to go to Hong Kong island and see the lazer show at 8pm.
Regards to you all,
Hugs <>
Renata and Andy
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Mes pagaliau atvykome i Hong Kong'a po nakties praleistos traukinyje. Miesto dar neapziurejome, nes ka tik atvykome. Si vakara bus paskutine musu grupes vakariene, o po jos liksime tik Andis ir as ir keliausime savais keliais. Mes planuojame apziureti Hong Kong'a is visu pusiu, nes turime beveik 10 dienu tam paskirtu. Planuojame aplankyti Makao ir kitas Hong Kong'o salas. Is cia galime ieiti i Facebook'o saskaita ir Hong Kong'e yra uzdrausta spaudyti, uz tai yra paskiriama bauda. Kinijos zemyne uztat viskas vyksta priesingai, garsus atsikriauksejimas ir spjaudymasis yra labai normalus kasdieninis gestas.
Kitas idomus faktas yra vaikai, besislapinantys ar besikakinantys gatveje. Na taip viesai, bet kur. Daznai jie net neturi kelniu/sijonuko, arba ties ta vieta yra iskirpta skyle, kad greiciau ir patogiau butu. Mane tai nuolat stebina, kai tik pamatau, nors zinau kad tai iprasta Kinijos zemyne. O kaip cia toji tvarka priimtina Hong Kong'e tai dar paziuresim;-)
Tik pries keleta minuciu mes grizome is mazos gatves kepykleles nusipirke po kelias bandeles, kad nebadautume iki tos grupes vakarienes. Kepyklos cia yra geros, nes kepa keksiukus ir daro sumustinius, kuo Andis negali atsidziaugti. Kinijos zemyne sumustiniu duona yra gana saldi, tad si permaina gana maloni.
Siandien po vakarienes 6 val mes planuojame ziureti lazeriu sou Hong Kong'o saloje 8 valanda vakaro.
Linkejimai ir apkabinimai visiems <>
Renata ir Andis
You should be able to view all our foto albums here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite
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Nuoroda i musu visus nuotrauku albumus http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite
A first day in Hong Kong by ourselves went really well. We got up late (around 10am) and went to the local bakery to get a mini pica, a bun with raisins and a doughnut with some water and iced coffee.
We checked out of our hotel (West Hotel in Kowloon is very nice) at noon and with our heavy-ish backpacks ventured to our new accommodation - a hostel on the Nathan's road in central Kowloon (in Golden Crown Court). Our room is on the floor No 10 and it is quite small, just enough room for the bed and a small space to walk to our small bathroom. The room does not have a window but there is air-con which we are very happy about. To tell the truth the room is not the smallest we have stayed (the room we stayed in in Ibiza was so small we had to change standing on the bed) but it is clean and cute. A big bonus is that it has wireless internet, so I can blog now!
After a quick check in into our hostel we checked out our WI-Fi and left for the Hong Kong island and the Star Ferry experience (fee - £0,20).
We dedicated our afternoon for central and western Hong Kong island exploration what took at least 3 good hours and was very satisfying. We started at the Western Market (built in 1906 and later declared as a historical monument) and moved to the Wing Lok Street (Ginseng and Bird's Nest Street) which is full of shops selling ginseng in huge quantities and bird's nests (actually swallows' nests from various countries, so their colour, shape and prices vary).
We bought some red Korean ginseng as it should be the best stuff, so some nice ginseng teas are to be had here! We will confirm if they have any special energy or longevity and fair complexion effects on us;-) As for the bird's nests, they are supposed to give the same effects as the ginseng and taste as wet bread. Method of preparation - just soak it in the soup or milk or other warm liquid and then eat.
Afterwards we moved to Ko Shing Street (Herbal Medicine Street) which is the wholesale centre of Hong Kong. There we was turtle shells, dried sea stars and sea horses, as well as shark fins and other exotic stuff (for visual images see our photo album " Hong Kong").
We passed the Hollywood road with antiques and a shop selling "mammoth" tusk art (which we quess probably are artificiality aged elephant tusks). The man at the shop told us that they import the tusks from Siberia which we found impossible to believe.
On our way further we passed many many art galleries exhibiting all sorts of modern art. We stopped at the Man Mo temple (Literature War temple). The temple is really impressive as inside there are massive incense coils hanging on the sealing and turning all the air into hypnotic plum aroma. We continued walking along the Hollywood raod and came to the longest covered escalator in the world (800 metres). We went 1 stop up to the SoHo area which was impressive with its international options and originally looking bars. The Lan Kwai Fong was visited to understand that yesterday we had our last tour group's drinks with Michael (our guide) there.
We stopped for a quick glance at the former Central Police Station Compound, former Central Magistracy, Victoria Prison Compound, 4 gas lamps, former French Mission Building and St John's cathedral.
After all this trip we were quite tired and hungry. We have had arranged dinner with our tour friends (Anna and Tessa), so we cought-up later on in the evening and dined at a lovely local restaurant. Some shitake mushrooms, garlic broccoli, prawns, shrimps in oyster source were consumed along with some crispy noodles and some soya milk;-)
Tomorrow we are planning to spend some more time exploring Hong Kong central and doing some shopping so that we can come to the DMC DJ Championship Hong Kong finals event (we were told that there is a strict dress code and our tourist/traveler gear is not on!).
The most recent photos are here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/HongKongAug2009#
More updates to follow!
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Pirma diena Hong Konge be gido praejo tiesiog puikiai. Mes atsikeleme gana velai (apie 10 val) ir iskeliavome medzioti pusryciu. Grizome su mazute delno dydzio pica, bandele su razinomis ir spurga bei buteliu vandens ir pakeliu saldytos kavos. Mes issiregistravome is viesbucio apie vidudieni ir su didziulemis kuprinemis pajudejome i Nathan gatve, savo jaunimo namu Auksines Karunos pastate.
Isiregistravome i jaunimo namus, patikrinome ar veikia musu kambario bevielis internetas (o taip, jis veikia!) ir iskeliavome i centrini Hong Kong'a zvaigzdziu keltu (persikelimo keltu kaina - 1lt).
Mes issilaipinome netoliese prie vakarietisko turgaus (pastatas yra irasytas i istoriniu paminklu sarasus, bet pastatytas tik 1906 metais), po to pasukome i Wing Lok gatve, kuri garseja zenseniu ir kregzduciu lizdais. Mes isigijome siek tiek raudonojo Korejisko zensenio, tad pora naktu gersime zensenio arbateles. Si zensenio rusis turetu buti geriausia ir brangiausia. Kalbant apie kregzduciu lizdus pasirodo kad ju skonis kaip slapios duonos. Kregzduciu lizdai yra is Kinijos ar kitu saliu (pvz Filipinu), tad skiriasi ju spalva, siek tiek forma ir kaina. Paruosimop budas - ideti i sriuba ar sultini, sojos piena, zodziu bet koki megstama silta skysti, pamirkyti ir tada suvalgyti. Kregzduciu lizdai (ar seiles) kaip ir zensenis turetu prailginti gyvenima, suteikti energijos ir pagerinti oda.
PO sios idomios patirties mes pasukome i Ko Shing gatve, kuri garseja vaistazoline medicina. Cia yra isikurusios parduotuves, kurios uzsiima didmenine prekyba. Vaistazoline medicina apima ne tik pacias vaistazoles, bet ir dziovintas juros zvaigzdes, juros arkliukus, vezliu kiautus, dziovintus driezus, rykliu plaukmenis ir kitka. Cia jau mes nieko nepirkome, nes ne musu teritorija ir net nezinotume ka su jais daryti ir ka gydyti.
Tada ejome Holivudo gatve, kuri yra pilna antikrariniu dirbiniu ir radome viena parduotuve, kuri skelbesi parduodanti mamuto ilciu drozinius, kiuriuos jis importuoja is SIbiro. Taciau mes nusprendeme kad labiau tiketina kad tau drambliu iltys, o mamutais tik prisidengiama, kadangi drambliu ilciu medziokle yra nelegalus verslas.
Musu keliones plane buvo Man Mo (Literaturos karo) sventykla, kurios vidus mus apstulbino, nes palubese kabojo didziuliai ir apvalus smilkalu ratai. Tokia gausa smilkalu visa ora paverte tirsta slyvomis kvepiancia erdve. Maniau, kad jei pabutume kokia valandike automoatiskai apsvaigtume ir nugrimztume i transa.
Pakeliui pasikeleme ilgiausiu pasaulyje eskalatoriumi su stogu (800 metru ilgio) i kosmopolitiska ir labai jau uzsienietiska SoHo vietele. Praejome senus policijos pastatus, 4 likusias zibalines lempas Dudell gatveje, Sv Jono katedra. Visa si kelione uztruko 3 geras valandas ir mes buvome jau gerokai praalke, nes iskeliavome tik su velyvokais pusryciais.
7 val vakaro buvome susitare vakarieniauti su 2 merginomis is musu ekskursijos, tad isskubejome persikelti keltu atgal. Vakarieniavome vietiniame restoranelyje, tad buvo kreveciu, brolkolio, arbatos, cesnako padazo ir kitokiu idomumu. Po vakarienes grizome i savo belangi kambariuka. Jis mazas ir jaukus. Vos yra vietos lovai ir mazam praejimui i vonia, bet kambarelyje yra oro kondicionavimo sistema, kas yra be galo vertinga kai lauke taip karsta (+35 dienos metu). Dar yra bevielis internetas, tad galiu dabar rasyti internetini dienorasti;-)
Rytoj planuojame dar pavarlineti po Hong Kong'o sala, gal nusipirkti normalius, sventiskesnius batus, nes turime tik sunkius, tinkamus po purvus vaikscioti ir slepetes, bet kadangi norime vakare iseiti i muzikin i rengini mums reikia ko nors normalesnio (aprangos reikalavimai yra).
Pirmadieni planuojame vaziuoti i Disneylenda, tad jau kelios dienos yra suplanuotos. Stengsimes siek tiek laiko praleisti ne centre, kadangi cia kainos yra gana dideles, o per daug issileisti nenorime, nes dar tiek saliu norime aplankyti!
Naujausios nuotraukos yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/HongKongAug2009#
Buckis visiemus x!
Yesterday we went to Hong Kong Disneyland which was an interesting experience for me as I have never been to one. Andy had a chance to compare this one which the ones he has already been to. We went on to quite a few rides and did it quite quickly as there were only a very few people. By noon we were getting tired of joly music being played at us, so it was obvious that we will not see the 8pm fireworks.
We went back to the hostel and snoozed for a few hours. It is very easily done as our room a magic place where time disapears in the windowless conditions;-)
In the evening we wondered to the Temple market which unrecognisably transformed at night into funky street market with seafood crawling on the street restaurant displays, fake D&G, Gucci and etc handbags everywhere, interesting electronic examples of miniature cameras and DVD players which play everything. Today we will visit the botanical gardens and aviary.
We are enjoying the city but it is very expensive for back packers. The bear costs £5 in the bars, accommodation is not cheap by any means either.
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Vakar pirma dienos dali praleidome Hong Kong'o Disneylende. Ten zmoniu buvo daug maziau nei mes tikejomes, tad nebuvo jokiu eiliu ir mes aplankeme visus atrakcionus per pirmas kelias valandas ir parkas jau eme igristi nuolatine linksma muzika, kuria Disnejus nuolat ikyriai persekioja lankytojus;-) Tad supratome kad jokiu budu parke neisbusime iki 8 vakaro fejerverku ir isvaziavome atgal i savo maza belangi kambareli. Ten nusnaudeme kelias valandas.
Vakare po pogulio issikrapseteme i Temple (Sventyklos) turgu. Tai eiline gatve, kuri nakti pavirsta i gatves restoraneliu tango. Restoranai issikiuoja dar judancias juros gerybes, rodydami kokia sviezia ju produkcija, zmones valgo, perka padirbtus Gucci, Prados, D&G rankines, laikrodzius, dirzus ir panasiai. Ten pasivaikscioje grizome namo. Si vakara eisime i ta turgu valgyti juros gerybiu. Ryte planuojame aplankyti Hong Kongo botanikos sodus ir paukstyna.
Kadangi cia viskas ganetinai brangu nusprendeme bandyti atsikelti skrydi i Tailanda siek tiek anksciau, taip tikimes sutauptyti siek tiek laiko ir pinigeliu.
Today we went to the beach. Although it involved a subway train and a bus ride, Shek-O beach is less than an hour outside of Kowloon but feels like a lot further. The hustle-and-bustle of the city street is replaced by a beautiful bay, warm blue sea and seafood restaurants. We spent a very relaxing afternoon swimming and lazing on the sand. The sea could be a bit cleaner - it had some debris such as plastic bags floating in it - but it was fantastically warm.
We have to check out of our guest house today and will probably move to Macau for a day or two. We changed our flights so that we to Bangkok on Saturday instead of Tuesday as this will save us some money and we think we will be bored of Hong Kong by then.
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iandien nuėjome į paplūdimį. Vaziavome metro ir autobusu, Shek-O paplūdimys yra maiau nei valandą nuo Kowloon, bet jaučiasi daug daugiau. Stumdymasis ir urmulys, miesto gatvėje yra pakeičiamas graia įlanka, ilta mėlyna jūra ir jūros gėrybių restoranais. Papludimyje yra labai gera atsipalaiduoti po pietų plaukiojimu ir tinginiauti ant smėlio. Jūra galetu būti iek tiek varesnė - joje buvo tam tikrų iukliu, pavyzdiui, plaukiojantys plastikiniai maieliai - bet oras buvo fantastikai iltas, tad mes tuo ir dziaugemes.
Mes turime issiregistruoti i mūsų svečių namu iandien, ir tikriausiai persikelti į Makao dienai ar dviems (Makao yra kita sala, Kinijoje garsejanti ivairiausiais kazino. Pastebetina, kad visur kitur Kinijoje losimai yra uzdrausti, tad visi vaziuoja losti i Makao). Mes pakeitėme savo skrydius - Bankoke busime etadienį, o ne antradienį, taip sutaupysime siek tiek, o ir Hong Konge iki antradienio butu nuobodu, nes cia daug ka jau pamateme.
Yesterday we moved our flights to Bangkok to 5th September (Saturday evening) as we are a bit bored in Hong Kong and it is costing us a fortune. After making that decision we decided to visit Macao island for a day or two. We left our heavy bags in hostel in Hong Kong and went on a fats speed boat to Macao for a night. One way ticket (with student discount and stuff) was 125 Hong Kong dollars (around £10).
At the ferry station we were looking for a bus or free shuttle bus to take us to central Macao and we noticed a free shuttle bus to the "City of Dreams" (God knows where!?), some casino and luxury shop complex. We decided to take a risk and after 10min we found ourselves in Coloane (one of Macao's islands). So what did we do? Andy decided that this is an amazing opportunity to have lunch there. So we did and then got a free shuttle bus to the centre of Macao.
Macao is around 60km away from Kong Kong island. Macao has numerous casinos, kind of LA I guess... Macao feels like Portugal, looks very like Portugal (architecture, street names, squares, food). It was kind of strange to be there. I felt a bit confused and surprised by all the Asian and mediterainian mixture.
We found a cheap hotel to stay at and ventured to find this cheap Portugese wine and coffee places my guide book was telling us about. Unfortunately it seems that night stars much earlier in Macao then in Hong Kong and at 8pm a lot of places were closed and all the eating places except McDonalds were not available. No coffee, no Portugese wine... Sometimes rough guides do not mention important things like timing! All the shops and restaurants in Hong Kong are open at least until 11pm, so this was a surprise for us.
Anyway, we went for a big western casino-y looking building with lots of lights and Christmasy atmosphere as we guessed there might be a different time perception. And we were right. We found a restaurant which served an evening buffet with lobster for 288 HKD and stayed there. It was the best ever buffet we ever had as all the food was amazing and we were not able even to try everything... (a pity of course!)
Today in the morning we took a leisurely walk in Macao, had a morning coffee in some nice independent cafeteria and saw all the places which were closed the previous night. Coffee was really good, by the way. We saw some beautiful gardens, passed numerous public exercise machines (have a look at our photos), visited a light house on the top of the hill. Late in the afternoon we caught the ferry back to Kowloon, went back to our hostel, got a room (this time with window). Hopefully we will have a good sleep and get ready for late flight to Bangkok tomorrow.
Updated photos from Hong Kong http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/HongKongAug2009#
Disneyland http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/HongKongDisneyland2009#
Photos from Macao http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/MacaoSep342009#
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Vakar mes pakeiteme skrydzio datas ir i Bangkoka (Tailandas) isskrendame rytoj (sestadienio vakara), o ne antradieni kaip anksciau buvo planuota. Taip nusprendeme padaryti del to, kad cia viskas gana brangu ir mes jau daug ka mateme, tad iki antradienio mes nuobodziautume. Kadangi turejome kelias dienas laisvas, tad nusprendeme porai dienu aplankyti Makao sala. Ji yra 60km nuo Hong Kongo salos. Kinai ja zino del istabiu didziuliu kazino (kaip Las Vegasas). Kinijoje losimas yra uzdraustas su viena isimtimi - Makao losti galima, patartina ir net privaloma. Mes pasigavome kelta iki Makao (bilietelis i viena puse apie 38lt ir tai su studento nuolaida).
Pasieke Makao uosta ieskojome autobusu ar nemokamu viesbuciu autobusu, kurie mus neveztu i Makao centra. Pamateme viena nemokama autobusa su uzrasu "Svajoniu miestas" ir isedome. Po 10 min pastebejome kad jau paliekame Makao sala ir tiltu vaziuojame kazkur. Atvaziave suzinojome, kad randames Makao priklausancioje saloje, Koloane ir tas autobusas atveze mus i prabangiu parduotuviu ir kazino kompleksa "Svajoniu miestas". Andis pamane, kad tai gera proga pamatyti kazino ir uzkasti, tad ten atradome nebrangia greito maisto vietele, uzkandome ir pasigavome nemokama autobusa atgal, i Makao centra.
Makao yra ypatinga sala, kazkada okupuota portugalu, tad iki siu dienu isliko portugaliski gatviu pavadinimai, maistas, architektura. Mes atradome nebrangu viesbutuka 1 nakciai ir isejome ieskoti pigaus portugalisko vyno ir kavos, apie ka rase mano kelioniu gidas. Tas kelioniu gidas neperspejo, kad Makao naktis prasideda daug anksciau nei Hong Kong'e, tad 8 val vakaro visi restoraneliai ir maisto parduotuves buvo uzdarytos. Hong Kong'e gi visos parduotuves yra atidarytos iki 11val vakaro.
Nerade to pigaus vyno ir nuostabios kavos, ememe ieskoti dideliu pastatu, kazino restoranu, kur galetume gauti to istabaus vyno ir kavos. Aki patrauke didelis svytintis pastatas, primenantis kaledine eglute, jo link ir patraukeme. Ten atradome restorana, kuris siule bufeta valgyk kiek nori uz 288HKD (iskaicuojant ir vezi). Nusprendeme kad tokios progos praleisti negalima ir ten praleidome visa vakara valgydami. Maistas buvo be galo skanus, pasirinkimas - gal apie 30 karstu patiekalu, sushi, krabai, saldumynu apie 20 rusiu. Zodziu, persivalgymas.
Siandien ryte atsikeleme ir isejome pasivaikscioti Makao. Radome tas vakar uzdarytas kavines su nuostabia kava ir ji is ties buvo pasakisko skonio. Pasivaiksciojome senamiesciu, atradome istabaus grozio parku, uzejome i sviesos ziburi, pakeliui mateme sporto irengimus viesam naudojimui:-) Velyve popiete sedome i kelta ir isjudejome Kowloon link. Grizome i savo bendrabuti (si karta gavome kambartiuka su langu), tad tikiuosi kad geriau issimiegosime ir pasiruosime rytojaus velyvam skryudziui i Bangkoka.
Papildytas nuotrauku albumas is Hong Kongo http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/HongKongAug2009#
Disneyland'o nuotraukikes http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/HongKongDisneyland2009#
Makao nuotraukos http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/MacaoSep342009#
Vienos valandos kelione autobusu ir mes didziuliame Honk Kongo oro uoste. Kainos Honk Konge gali buti stebetinos, nes vietoj 100HKD (apie 38lt) zmogui traukiniu mes sumokejom 33HKD (apie 12 lt) uz kelione prabangiu ir patogiu autobusu. Vaziavome tiltais is vienos salos i kita. Idomi buvo kelione.
Oro uoste prasidejo istorija.... Oro uosto tarnautoja paeme musu pasus ir buvo jau procese beregistruojanti mus skrydziui, kai vienu metu nei is sio nei is to paklause ar mes (tiksliau - as) turiu bilieta is Tailando po 15 dienu (nes tada mano viza, kuria man duos Tailando oro uoste pasibaigs). Jos veida iskreipe maloni sypsena, nes ji akivaizdziai pastebejo plysi musu plane. As pasakiau, kad neturiu, nes mes is Tailando vaziuosim autobusu i Kambodza ir panasiai. O ji sako, jei neturite irodymu, kad sali paliksite po 15 dienu, Jusu i lektuva pasodinti negalime, nes Jusu niekas neileis i Tailanda! Vajetau buvo.... Mano ir kojos nutirpo, ir rankos apsalo. Is kur ta bilieta gauti ir kur keliauti? Mes planavome apie viska pagalvoti siek tiek veliau.
Situacija isgelbejo 2 dalykai, ne, 4 dalykai:
1. I oro uosta atvykome siek tiek anksciau, tad tai dave mums laiko;
2. Turime savo mazuti nesiojama kompiuteriuka, kuris cia labai praverte;
3. Oro uoste visur buvo bevielis ir nemokamas internetas;
4. Blaiviai galvojantis Andis.
Po intensyvios oro bilietu paieskos, atradome kazkokius bilietus 19 rugsejo i Kambodza ir juos uzsisakeme, nes sali man palikti pasirodo yra privaloma. Atsigavome kai pagaliau gavome patvirtinima, kad bilietai yra rezervuoti ir uz juos sumoketa. Tada gavome leidima sesti i lektuva ir skristi su Etiopijos oro linijomis.
Kita diena praleidome su pazistama Tamsin, jos partneriu Tae ir ju 2,5 metuku sunumi Aleksu. Vaiksciojome po vietinius maisto turgelius, valgeme, gereme, kalbejomes ir namo grizome taksi siek tiek pries vidunakti kad pasiskaipinciau su mama. Diena praejo smagiai ir turiningai.
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One hour luxury coach tripand we are in a huge and modern Honk Kong airport. Prices in the city vary a lot as for the same trip by MTR (underground train) we could have paid 100HKD (a bit less then £10) each but we only paid 33HKD (£3) each for the same 1 hour coach trip.
The story started in the airport... The lady at the check-in desk took our passports and was in process of registerring us. At one point she asked if I have a ticket out of Thailand and I confirmed that we are flying out of Thailand in 2 months time. She did not seem to approve it. The lady obviously was satisfied with the fact that she spotted a flaw in our plan. Well - she said - you must leave the country in 15 days as this is how long your visa on entry lasts. She would not allow me to board if I don;t have a proof I am leaving the counrty in 2 weeks even if we go to Cambodia by coach or get tourist visa in Bangkok... Oh my God - I thought - now it starts, visa troubles...My feet got numb and I couldn't think for a while. Where to get those tickets? We even did not have exact plan of when and where we will go in south east asia.
Situation was saved by 2 things, no... 4 of them:
1. We arrived to the airport much earlier;
2. Our mini laptop, which saved our lives now;
3. Wireless and free internet in all the airport;
4. Logical Andy who got on a case straight away.
After intensive internet search we found some tickets to Cambodia for 19th September and we booked them. With the proof of the booking we were able to check-in and enjoy our flight with Ethiopian airlines.
Next day was spent with Tamsin, Tae and Alex. We eat, drank, went to the local markets and chatted for hours. It was a very well spent day.
Hello everyone and warms regards to noisy Bangkok!
We have arrived to Bangkok very late last night with some visa adventures on the way (will blog later about all this). We are staying at a lovely boutique hostel which is not the cheapest but beautiful, clean and quiet. We are staying in a dorm room with other 2 people, one of them is a Swiss girl and another neighbour is a guy but we haven't had a chance to say hello to him yet.
When we were in Kathmandu I saw a T-shirt on sale with the text below which seems very appropriate for Bangkok as well:
NO RIKSHAS
NO TUK TUK
NO TAXI
NO HASHISH ;-)
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Labas rytas visiemus ir silti linkejimai is triuksmingo Bankoko!
Mes atskridome i Bankoka vakar nakti su siokiais tokiais vizos nesklandumais (apie tai brukstelsiu veliau). Apsistojome butikiniuose jaunimo namuose, kurie nera is pigiuju, nes cia svaru, grazu ir gana ramu. Mes dalinames kambariu su pora zmogeliu: vaikinu, su kuriuo dar neturejome galimybes susipazinti ir miela sveicare mergine.
Kai buvome Katmandu as maciau marskinelius su uzrasu, kuris yra labai tinkamas ir Bankokui:
Nereikia Taksi
Nereikia tuk-tuk
Nereikia riksos
Nereikia hasiso (narkotine medziaga - pastaba mamai!)
We got coach and catamaran tickets to Koh Tao island, down in the south of Thailand (12 hours coach journey). We are leaving at 7:30pm today. Only 550B per person (what is a bit less then £10)! We will do a scuba diving course there and I was told the beaches are great there, so some rest and lazying on the beach will be very welcome.
Our latest Hong Kong photos are not filled yet, but they are on the way!
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Mes siryta nusipirkome autobuso ir katamarano bilietus i Koh Tao sala Tailando pietuose (12 valandu kelio autobus). Isvykstame si vakara 19:30. Bilietas zmogui kainavo kazkur 38 litus! Koh Tao mes norime ismokti nardyti atviruose vandenyse. Andis mane itikino, kad ten papludymiai yra nuostabus - zydras vanduo ir baltas smelis. Tad siek tiek patinginiausime.
Musu paskutines Hong Kongo nuotraukos dar tebera fotokameroje, bet pasistengsime jas paplatinti kaip galima greiciau!
We took the overnight bus and early morning ferry to arrive in Koh Tao (a tiny island - pop. 5000).
New photos up at:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Bangkok (we'll add to this album when we're back in Bangkok)
and
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/KohTao (same... more photos to come at same address)
Loving the white beaches and warm blue seas :)
Yesterday we travelled a bit around the island just to get a better understanding and see some more of it. The best and supposingly cheapest way is to hire a scooter what we did. It was amazing as we spend a late morning on a beautiful Aow Leuk beach. I tried snorkelling for the first time in my life and saw some amazing dead corals and fish, some of the fish nibbled my feet and some white scissor tail jumped through my floating wrist which was amazing. Andy saw 3 black tip sharks that afternoon. After beaching experience we drove back to the Sai Daeng beach we are staying at (Coral View resort) but that is another story.
A road to our resort is quite steep and sandy, stony, basically one of the worst to drive up or down. As an unexperienced driver (first time ever driving the machine!)I managed to fall of the scooter 2 times and second time I hurt myself quite (no broken bones) a bit and scratched the bike. Erhhhh! Bills bills bills! Anyway, finally made it home in one piece.
This morning we started an Open Water (PADI) course. It will last 3 days in total. It is only me and Andy on the course which is great. For the practical diving part this afternoon we actually had 2 instructors, so 1:1 training which was amazing! We dived at the depth of 7.9metres. I am not sure if I liked it or was scared of drowning more;-) We definitely saw some amazing things at the bottom of the sea: a black tip shark, a corner of a hiding sting ray, an eel of some sort, live and dead coral, parrot fish, crocodile needle fish, Christmas tree worms, a blue sea anenomy, etc. Our divign school is based very close to the famous Shark island where a lot of sharks have been spotted. We were told that Whale Sharks come to the Koh Tao, so there is a possibility we will see them as well. Actually we met an Israeli guy last night and he saw a whale shark here, so fingers crossed.
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Vakar pirma karta pati vaziavau mopedu saloje, kas buvo be galo idomu, bet tuo pat metu ir sudetinga, nes mes gyvename paslaptingoje salos dalyje, sunkiai pasiekiamoje, tad i ja patekti reikia per kelis kalnus ir i juos bevaziuodama pora kartu pargriuvau su mopedu. Ka cia jau bemineti, kad mopedu dar niekada nebuvau vaziavusi. Tad pirmas kartas, ka tik ismokjau, uzsedau ir pirmyn! Pirmas krytis nieko, o antra karta visa koja nusibrozdinau ir alkune. Nedaug, bet nemalonus ispudis. Siandien tuo paciu keliu vaziaves vaikinas irgi susikruvino su mopedu. Be galo man jo gaila, nes susikruvino daugiau net nei as, bet is kitos puses jauciuosi ne tokia "luzere" ;-) Tai vat. I kalnus kol kas su mopedais nevazinesiu, nes man reikia daugiau praktikos nei 20 minuciu ant to daikto!
Siandien pradejome nardymo kursus (truks isviso 3 dienas) ir plaukiojome panere 7,9 metrus (gylis). Be galo idomu buvo, tik as savimi ir savo plaukimu nelabai tepasitikiu, bet maciau juodapeleki rykli - apie 50 cm ilgio (mazesne rusis), ivairiausias zuvis, koralus (gyvus ir negyvus) ir panasiai. Mokemes po vandeniu kvepuoti, ispusti vandeni is akiniu ir naudotis Andzio deguonies balionu bei panasiai. Kazkaip man ir baisu ir idomu. Net nezinau kaip ir kas is tiesu;-) Is susijaudinimo virpa mano kintos. Turiu triusio sirdi as nusprendiau, bet pagalvojus, kad plaukti ismokau tik pries kelis menesius, gal tai ir normalu?
Vakar sutikau 25 metu rusa, kuris gyvena Maskvoje, tad pasipraktiukavau savo rusu kalba, o sutiktas zydas is Izraelio patvirtino kad bangininiu rykliu esame netoliese sios salos ir jis viena vakar mate. Tad gal ir mes turesime garbes ta rykli sutikti;-)
We have finished our diving course a few days ago and then moved to another island with sandy beaches and blue blue water. Little paradise it is;-)
Here are the photos from Tao (turtle) island where we did our diving course on the Sai Daeng beach with Coral View diving school
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/KohTao#
Today we will attempt to get a Thai massage at some point as we heard a lot about how wonderful it is. Difficult life, huh? ;-) We are enjoying the holiday a lot!
Lots of love to you all
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Pries keleta dienu baigeme nardymo kursus ir persikeleme i kita sala, su graziais balto smelio papludymiais ir zydru zydru vandeniu.
Cia yra nuotraukos is Tao (vezlio) salos, kur mes mokemes nardyti http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/KohTao#
Siandien planuojame tupeti papludimyje visa diena ir gal susitarti del tailandietisko masazo, nes tai turetu buti vienas is geriausiu pasaulyje masazu. Visi rekomenduoja pabandyti. Sunkus gyvenimas, ar ne?
Buckiai visiemus
We are currently on the island of Koh Phangan. We stayed one night in Hat Rin, which is where most people party. We'd missed the half-moon party but found a pool party which was pretty nice. Basically getting a little tipsy in a beautifully lit swimming pool.
Now we've moved up the coast to Haad Salat, which is a much quieter, family-oriented resort. Gorgeous beach. Thai massage (the family-friendly kind), hammocks and seafood bbq food is the order of the day. We've decided to budget a little by eating biscuits for breakfast and lunch and just having one proper meal. Food here is expensiveish for Thai standards, but you can still eat out really well for a fiver (less if you skip the beer).
We're chilling out here for a couple more days and then heading back to Bangkok for our flight to Cambodia, where we will meet up with Anna from our China trip. I'm making use of the abundant WiFi internet to catch up with emails and write some articles.
Tonight we are having a drink at the beach bar called Double Duke and they seem to have an interesting take on naming the shots. For example: Shit on The Grass (Creme De Menthe & Baileys) and Squashed Frog (Midori & Baileys). Guys, try this yourselves, let us know what you think;-)
Boozy regards from Renata:-)
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Si vakara mes isejome isgerti kokteilio i papludymio bara "Dvigubas kunigaikstis". Cia jo savininkai megsta gana originalius sotu (vieno gurksnio gerimelio) kokteilius, pvz.: S*** and zoles (Creme De Menthe ir Baileys) ir Istreksta varle (Midori ir Baileys). Pabandykit juos ir mums praneskit, ar patiko.
Apsvaige bucinukai nuo Renatuko xx
When visiting Nepal (Kathmandu) we were asked by a Yak & Yeti restaurant manager: Is there a God in England?
I would like to know that too. He was happy to hear that in Lithuania we moan for a long time when a loved person leaves this earth. Traditionally Lithuanians wear black clothes for 1 year after a close person dies. Nepalese do the same just wear white clothes...
The link to our Koh Phangan photos is here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/KohPhangan# (some of them were taken today!)
Renata
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Mums besilankant Nepale (Katmandu) Yak ir Yeti restorano vadybininkas paklause musu: Ar Anglijoje yra Dievas?
As ir pati tai noreciau suzinoti. Vyriskis apsidziauge, kad nepalieciu ir lietuviu gedejimo prociai yra panasus. Nepalieciai devi baltus drabuzius 1 metus po mylimo zmogaus mirties.
Musu naujausios Koh Phangan nuotraukos yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/KohPhangan# (paskutines yra darytos siandien)
Renata
14 hours, a ferry and 2 coaches later we are in Bangkok. At 6am the least you need is enterprenerial thai man to be asking where are you going and if you need a taxi. Luckily we knew where we were going and did not need a taxi as the coach dropped us off just one street away from the Kaoh San street. After looking around for a half an hour we found a nice and cheapish place to stay (540 THB, less then £10) with free Wi Fi! Bonus!
One of the best things about Bangkok is cheap food, so as you see we are planning the next diner! Now we have to catch up on some sleep before hitting the streets of Bangkok...
Sweet dreams xx
P.S. Tomorrow we are off to Cambodia for about a week or two and then Laos for a week or so and then we will be back to Thailand for some more sunny beaches before we head off to Australia.
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14 valandu, keltas ir 2 autobusai ir mes pasiekeme Bankoka. 6 val ryto maziausiai norisi buti uzpultai desimties taksistu ar kitokio tipo verslininku, kurie ima tardyti ar reikia man taksi ir kur as einu. Musu laimei mums taksi nereikejo ir mes zinojome kur einame, nes mus autobusas isleido netoliese populiarios tarp turistu Khao San gatves. Po pusvalandzio praleisto tiriant rinka ir ieskant tinkamo busto mes radome svaria ir pigoka vietele nakvynei (540 THB arba apie 30 litu nakciai) su nemokamu bevieliu internetu! Super!
Rytoj apie pietus mes isskrisime i Kambodza savaitei ar dviems, po to planuojame apie savaite ar ilgiau praleisti Laos ir tada grizti i Tailanda dar pasidziaugti sauletais ir baltasmeliais papludymiais pries isvykstant i Australija.
Vienas is geriausiu dalyku apie Bankoka yra pigus gatves maistas, tad kaip matote mes jau pla nuojame sekancia vakariene. O dabar einame nusnusti, kadangi miegas autobuse nebuvo labai gilus...
Labankat xx
Andy: Quick update from me... loving the free WiFi and the opportunity to write to a few old friends. If i haven't emailed you personally recently, I probably will soon. Much love, Andy x
"Happy or sad, emotions reign. My tears flow just the same." - Lamb, 'I cry'
Anybody visiting Phnom Penh is almost morally obligated to visit two places of particular cultural significance; S21 and The Killing Fields.
Security Office 21 (a.k.a S21) is the notorious prison / torture complex that the Khmer Rouge used to intern and interrogate Cambodian men, women and children. Over 20,000 souls passed through S21 and virtually none survived to tell the tale; they were either tortured to death within the complex or eventually transferred to the nearby 'Killing Fields'. S21 is all the more perverse because it used to be a primary school.
'The Killing Fields' site lies a little outside of Phnom Penh city. Formally an agricultural site, it was used as a place of methodical mass slaughter. One of many, apparently, but by far the most famous.
It's difficult to recount the experience of visiting these places without putting them into some kind of historical context. I'll do my best to summarise, but I have been woefully ignorant up until this point so please excuse (and correct!) any factual inaccuracies that you see in the following paragraphs.
The Cambodian people (or Khmer, as they are also known) have really suffered. They were bombed heavily during the Vietnam war. US forces dropped over 500,000 tonnes of ordnance on Cambodia in their war effort, which was ostensibly against the North Vietnamese. The Cambodian government had allied itself with the communists of North Vietnam and hence incurred the wrath of the United States. At same time, a civil war was raging between the Khmer Rouge ('Red Cambodia') and government supporters. When the Khmer Rouge swept to power, overthrowing the incumbent regime, they were warmly welcomed by the Cambodian people. However, within days of the Khmer Rouge occupying the capital, Phnom Penh, they ordered everyone out of the city.
In a complex - yet pathologically calculated - operation, they moved everyone out of the major population centres and into agricultural communes, where they would work the land. Neighbours were moved to disparate parts of the country and families were broken up. The Khmer Rouge regime then set about systematically destroying the fabric of society even more completely; the central bank was dynamited and the educated classes were systematically 'dissapeared', interrogated and eventually killed, along with their entire families. The Khmer Rouge leadership felt that killing a person might cause dissent and feared the revenge of family members, so their method - brutally effective - was to take out 'the root' of the problem; i.e. the whole family unit. People were not usually arrested in public. Instead, they were 'invited to further their education' in Phnom Penh by the regime... a great honour.
Once there, they were interred at S21 or a similar facility and - almost exclusively - put to death after a period of confinement and brutal torture, where they would be 'encouraged' to provide names of more intellectuals or those who might have political views. People who with poor eyesight learned to hide their glasses, as they were a sign that one could read. Reading was a sign that one was educated and being educated was reason enough to be 'dissapeared'.
The Khmer Rouge burnt themselves out... their reclusive leader, Pol Pot (not his real name), became intensely paranoid, executing increasing numbers of his own army and inner circle, thus fuelling a self-fulfilling prophecy of internal revolt and mutiny. At the same time, the Khmer Rouge, overstretched themselves. They launched raids into Vietnam, attacking Vietnamese army and instigating and invasion which liberated the people of Cambodia after just 4 years.
It was only afterwards, when people regrouped and returned to Phnom Penh and other towns and cities from where they had been displaced, that they began to understand the enormity of the tragedy; the massacre perpetrated by the Khmer Rouge against its own people had decimated the population by approximately 30%, or 2 million lives. To add insult to - is it appropriate or proportionate to refer to genocide as 'injury'? - the UN refused to recognise the newly-installed regime in Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge - now operating from jungle hideouts but still very much alive - continued to occupy Cambodia's seat at the UN for a number of years. Incredibly, the very people responsible for the genocide of their own countrymen continued to be the only internationally-recognised spokespersons for Cambodia, as the new regime was considered to be incompatible with the ideology of certain members of the UN.
Cambodia is now back on its feet. Pathetically poor and deprived of the people who can most effectively help the nation recover - their intellectuals, engineers, architects, etc. - the Khmer somehow retain a sense of fun and also of great pride in their country, which was home to an amazingly advanced civilisation capable of building one of the wonders of the world thousands of years ago.
We visited the Killing Fields first, arriving by tuc-tuc. Apparently, a Japanese company owns the rights to the site as a tourist attraction and receives the takings from the ticket office. At first glance, the place is essentially a big field with a few shallow pits dotted around. The focal point is a memorial in the centre. This obelisk contains the skulls and bones of those that have so far been excavated from the pits. At four stories high, the structure stands as a gigantic memorial to the dead. The pits themselves mark the places where the remains were found. Initially much deeper, they are now only a few inches deep and have grass growing on top. Although mostly excavated, new bones, teeth and clothing bubble to the surface every rainy season. It was only after walking around the site for a while that I realised that the ground was in places littered with old clothing of various kinds. The grim realisation struck that these were not simply items that had been left there and trodden into the dirt, but the clothes of the dead. Around the edges of the pits, you can see fresh bones jutting out and - if you are not careful - tread on the clothes of the fallen. Prisoners were taken to this site and orderly executed, blindfolded, at the edge of one of the many pits. Some pits had contained the bodies / skeletons of blindfolded men. Many of the skulls still retained their blindfolds. One pit contained only headless corpses; around 500 in number. Others pits were for women and children. To keep costs down, the Khmer Rouge typically executed their victims with farming tools, axes or wooden clubs. Heads were severed with the tough, serrated bark from palm trees. A few were shot, though it is unclear how the executioners selected their method. Most of the skulls excavated thus far show severe fractures. Babies and infants were picked up by their limbs and had their heads smashed against a tree. We saw and touched the tree, which showed remarkably little sign of the torment it had witnessed. Another tree - the so called 'Magic Tree' had been used as a loudspeaker post; nationalist anthems had blared out from speakers hanging from the branches to drown out the screams of the dying so as not to agitate those corralled in huts awaiting their fate. Initially, the regime could execute everyone who arrived at the field in a single day, but as the process escalated, people were kept there overnight in something akin to a waiting room, as the executioners could not keep pace with the rate of new arrivals.
Later in the day, we arrived at the S21 'museum'. It's the actual site and is pretty much unchanged, except that pictures of some of those sent there for detention now adorn the walls of some of the rooms. There are 14 graves in the gardens of the old primary school; these are the graves of the final victims of S21... the corpses found at the site by the liberating forces. Retaining it's schoolyard structure, S21 comprises several blocks. From the outside, only the bars on the windows and the barbed-wire lattice - in place to prevent prisoners leaping to their deaths - give any indication of anything untoward. The place has been kept pretty much as it was found, though most of the blood stains have been erased. Visitors are free to explore the tiny cells and, see the leg-irons, and even sit on the metal beds that prisoners were strapped to whilst being tortured. Some more elaborate torture devices are also on display in some of the rooms. Lest visitors fail to comprehend the significance of each room, a black & white photograph from the S21 archives of someone strapped to an identical bed, often bleeding profusely, sometimes with severe facial or head injuries, was posted in each of these rooms. In other rooms, there would be nothing but row upon row of photographs. The Khmer Rouge were meticulous in documenting their grim work. Each 'guest' at S21 had their photograph taken upon arrival and often also after torture sessions. Most of the faces in the photos looked stern. Some had a look of pure fear, some of incomprehension, but most looked defiant. They may or may not have known that they were going to be imprisoned, brutally tortured and ultimately disposed of in a pit full of decomposing corpses, but they knew enough. 'Fuck you!', they glared. Hardest to look at were the photos of young boys and girls that may not have even reached their teenage years.
S21 is not the kind of place that you mooch around in a group, idly taking in the sights and discussing them as you might in another type of museum or art gallery. I was there with Anna (our friend from our China tour) and Renata, but we walked alone, separately and at our own pace, through this ghoulish reminder of the darkest side of human nature. At the bottom of a stairwell, i found myself yet again treading on the clothes of the dead. In a seemingly unsorted storeroom of some kind, callously littered with coke cans and other detritus, I found myself standing on a huge pile of clothes, shoes and hats; all very old, dirty, and undoubtedly belonging to inmates of S21. I lingered there a while, alone, hoping perhaps that the ghosts of this place might castigate me for treading so carelessly on their belongings; wishing that they had some voice, even if it were to be used in anger against me.
Sitting outside on a bench for a while, I was deep in contemplation when I saw a young girl - perhaps 5 or 6 years old - playing on the grass in the courtyard, just yards from the cell block. She noticed me and began an impromptu dance performance for my benefit; cartwheels, somersaults, running around flapping her hands like she would be flying. It was a welcome break from the bleak despair of the place. I gave her a little round of applause after each act. By way of a finale, she gathered up as many petals as she could find at the foot of nearby trees, threw them into the air and giggled with glee as she was showered with flowers. The emotions I felt upon seeing such a scene, in such a setting, were overwhelming. In a place where so many souls had been put through hell, here was a little picture of heaven; a glint of sunshine peeping through a gap in the clouds. At that moment, I think the ghosts of the tortured inmates who had ignored my transgression at the foot of the stairwell were peering through the bars of their dark cells, through the barbed wire, onto the grass, to watch that little girl dancing in the sunlight. I think they were smiling.
The Lonely Planet guide states that Cambodia looks like a puddle during the rainy season and we can confirm that it definately does. The rivers flood 4 times of the original size and the floods like this are the ones to blame (or to thank) for numerous houses on 6-7m stilts. We took plenty of photos to show the house architecture and the lifestyle.
When visiting Siam Riep we made a day trip to one of the flooded villages (recommended by a tuc-tuc driver, 25 years old guy, who picked us up from the coach station) and enjoyed the feeling of seeing people managing just fine and living just a few metres or sometimes even less then a 50cm above the water. They keep pigs and chickens under their houses and visit their neighbours in the little boats. Most of the houses have no electricity, noone has clean water, so everyone washes in the river, easte goes into the same river as well. Children seem to be more then comfortable living so close to water. Our little boat drivers throught the village actually were around 10 and 12 years old! Villagers farm fish and children catch fish with their parents. Seems that it is such a basic skill but after 18 years of education I still would not be able to feed myself and it is kind of embarrasing that in my age I am not able to get any food for myself (eliminating buying process). Andy & I decided to learn fgishing and do that on almost daily basis in Australia.
Some our friends said that Cambodia is a very sad and very poor country which kind of made me resist of putting cambodians into that category. I wanted to see, I wanted to hear and to experience myself. After a week in Cambodia I cannot say that we came in a very close contact with the locals but we saw quite a bit. What I saw was lovely. I saw nature, children extremely happy, playful and welcoming, saying "hello" to us when we pass by and smiling. A little boy, maybe 4-5 years old stopped and helped us to put a bike chain when it fell off. It would have taken us half an hour to fix and he did it within the seconds, just flicked his little fingers and it's done! People smiling when they see us riding the bike behind a local driver or curiously investigating us whilst we wait for a ferry. The past which is still so so recent has left a mark and people just shake their heads, saying that they cannot understand how Pol Pot regime made 10-15 years old boy to kill their own people but that is a hard thing to understand as death is always is. Apart from that I see happy people with their lives and moving on.
Saying that I must say that it does not feel very secure or stable here, corruption and just different order of the world is felt everywhere here. I do not think that locals feel very safe about what tomorrow brings. There are no pensions, no state guarantees but there is an enourmous amount of Lexus's driven in Phnom Phen but the majority is scooters and motorbikes. There are rich and there are poor. Firemen would not put the fire without a payout and probably someone starts the fire for that reason too. Policemen collecting bribes at the entrance to Phnom Phen. Bribes to get a job. Bribes to get a clean needle in the hospital. Teachers are more like businessmen as they take payments from students, especially for English language tuition. A few big men collecting the $25 fee for the boat trip to the floating village near Siam Riep and children actually driving the boats and doing the actual work. Kids pushing hard for a postcard, water or bracelet sale at the temple sites. Two armed men next to ATM. Our backpacker guest house has a security guard too. Andy's lost or stolen vallet... A few things like that.
The new photos from Phom Phen are here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/PhnomPenh#
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Lonely Planet knygoje teigiama, kad lietingojo sezono metu Kambodza is lektuvo skrydzio atrodo kaip didele bala. Ir mes tai galime patvirtinti. Upes patvinsta ir padideja 4 kartus. Sitai leme ir namu ant 6-7m aukscio stiltu atsiradima. Mes prifotografavome daugybe namu virs vandens, tad pasklaidykite musu albumus Picasoje. Kai lankemes Siam Riep mieste musu tuk-tuk vairuotojas (25m) rekomendavo aplankyti pluduriuojanti kaima ir apsemta miska, esanti salia. Istabu buvo stebeti zmones, gyvenancius virs vandens visa ju gyvenima ir besidziaugiancius tuo.Kai kurie namai yra vos 50cm virs vandens. Sio kaimo zmones valtimi plaukia aplankyti savo kaimynu. Daugelyje namu neturi elektros ir niekas neturi svaraus vandens; visi maudosi toje pacioje upeje. Upeje, kuri yra ju vonia ir tualetas. Vaikai be galo laimingi, turskiasi vandenyje. Kaimo zmones gaudo zuvis su vaikais. Po 18 metu mokslu as nemoku pagauti zuvies. Kas yra keista ir apmaudu kazkaip. Mes su Andziu nusprendeme ismokti zuvauti ir tai daryti vos ne kiekviena diena kai busime Australijoje.
Kai kurie pazistami pasakojo, kad Kambodza yra be galo liudna ir skurdi salis, kam as is pat pradziu priesinausi, nes norejau pati pamatyti ir susidaryti savo nuomone. Po savaites, praleistos Kambodzoje negaliu pasakyti, kad labai artimai susipazinau su vietiniais, bet maciau nemazai. Maciau laimingus, besijuokiancius vaikus, kurie visada sveikina mus, net jei mes pro sali lekiame motociklu ar tuk-tuk. Mazas 4-5metu berniukas priejo prie musu kai nukrito dviracio grandine. Ja uzdeti mums gal butu uztruke pusvalandi, o berniukas ja tik paciupinejo ir ji vietoje. Neprasytas, tiesiog pamate, padejo. Vietiniai mums sypsosi ir mumis naturaliai domisi, nesvarbu ar vaziuojam motociklu, autobusu, ar tiesiog laukiam kelto. Netolima praeitis ir 1975-1979metu karas dar ir dabar yra nepaaiskinama Kambodzoje. Kas gali suprasti kaip 10-15metu paaugliai gali masiskai zudyti ir kaip iki tol buvo prieta. Nustumiant tai i sali, as matau laimingus zmones, judancius i prieki.
Taip sakant turiu pabrezti, kad cia nera labai saugu. Vietiniai saugiai nesijaucia, nes nezinia ka atnes rytojus. Nera rytojaus garantiju, nera pensijos, bet yra daugybe Lexus gatvese Phom Phen. Didzioji dalis gyventoju gi vazineja mopedais ir pigiais motociklais. Yra turtingu, yra ir varguoliu. Gaisrininkai negesins gaisro jei nebus duodamas didziulis kysis. Padegimai yra daznas dalykas. Policininkai, imantys kysius prie ivaziavimo i miesta.Kysiai, kad gautumei darba. Kysiai, kad gautumei svaria adata ligonineje. Mokytojai yra verslininkai ir ima mokesti is mokiniu, ypac uz anglu kalbos pamokas. Stambus vyriskiai, grobuoniskai imantys $25 mokesti uz valties kelione i pluduriuojanti kaima ir vaikai, vairuojantys valtis ir dirbantys. Vaikai, verciantys pirkti atvirutes, vandeni ar apyrankes prie sventyklu. Du ginkluoti apsauginiai prie bankomato. Apsauginis prie musu sveciu namu. Andzio pamesta ar pavogta pinigine... Keletas tokiu dalyku...
Naujos nuotraukos is Phnom Phen http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/PhnomPenh#
Hey All,
Just a quick note to say that we are aware of a huge tropical storm heading towards Vietnam and Laos. We were planning to leave tomorrow morning on a bus for southern Laos, but this now seems imprudent, as Laos is unlikely to cope well with the level of rainfall predicted. We plan to stay put in Phnom Penh until the effects of the storm are apparent. It is possible it will burn itself out somewhere over Vietnam.
Some of our Siam Reap photos are up and can be found here . We have some still to upload, but there is no WiFi here, so they're currently stuck on our laptop.
(Entire style - and some complete sentences - shamelessly copied from Dr. Hunter S Thompson, RIP).
We were on the edge of the city, on our way to the supermarket, when the menacing vibrations began to take hold.
It was rush hour. The combination of heat, dust and stinking fumes was doing something ugly to the crowd. We weaved our way through the parked vehicles, stinking trash and myriad tuc-tuc and motorcycle drivers, all desperately insistent that they take us somewhere, anywhere.
"No thanks!", we smiled cheerfully, "Enjoying the walk! Not going far.", we lied.
This only served to encourage the poor wretches. Once they've lured you into a conversation, they reason, it's only a small step to lure you into their god-damned tuc-tuc on another stinking drive through the rush-hour traffic to some depressing point of interest.
And why not? Hell, isn't that exactly what they teach all good salespeople on their very first day of training? Keep them talking. Lean on the fuckers.
My mood was already ugly by the time we reached the crossing. The lights were working, but policemen were directing the traffic. High on their own self-importance, these chubby, uniformed men were hurling themselves into the path of vehicles, waving one set through, holding another back, all the time blowing whistles. Fat, reddened cheeks. Angry trilling. Bad Noise.
We barely noticed the woman at first. Wearing no shoes and carrying some kind of sack, she could easily have been homeless. She tugged at my attorney's arm as we stared imploringly at the cop to let us cross. No Dice.
She seemed deranged. Pointing at my attorney's flip-flops, jabbering excitedly in Khmer, and then making the universal 'drinky-drinky' motion. What could it all mean? What did this woman want from us? When would she leave?
Mercifully, her patience at the crossing was even lower than my own. Sack in hand, she bounded through the traffic, pausing briefly to ridicule the fat cop who was now waving and whistling in her direction.
A motorcade of blacked-out cars swept past. No doubt why the cops were there in the first place. The elite of Phnom Penh favour the privacy and anonymity that a blacked-out vehicle affords. And boy, are there a lot of them.
While the gutter-class scrapes by on a dollar a day, the fat-backs cruise past in their chauffeur-driven Hummers and Lexi, bodyguards riding shotgun. There was plenty of wealth in this city and they weren't going to give it up without a fight.
Don't stare. Leave them be.
The policeman eventually allowed us to cross and I began wishing almost immediately that he hadn't.
The woman with the sack was waiting for us behind a hedge. She seemed to make a show for my benefit of checking that the cop had turned his back on her before she darted out of view.
"Here it comes", I mumbled to my attorney.
She was on us in seconds. The jabbering had started up again, but it had ratcheted up a notch. Not a Good Sign. We shrugged at her, quickening our pace. Nothing. We want nothing. Then it came.
Quick as a flash, the young woman, who had taken on something of the mischievous gait of a monkey, lashed out with a vicious kick to my thigh. The people of this region understand how to kick; they grasp the physics of it. Muay Thai. Disable the legs, then move in for the kill. Real Fighting.
She had a good ten yards on me before I registered the blow, but I was after her immediately. Aggressive Shouting. Angry Noise. Unfazed, the imp darted into the gutter and grabbed a fist-sized rock.
I'd already pulled out the knife when my attorney ushered me away from the scene. Concerned Khmer citizens, by now out of their shops and homes to see what all the commotion was about, were shooting uncomprehending stares in my direction. Not a Good Look, i considered, as we hurried away. Yelling and shrieking at a homeless woman, waving a hunting knife at her as she crouched in the gutter. What must those poor people have thought? It was time to re-evaluate.
We had remained in Phnom Penh to avoid the Typhoon. Yet here I was; right in the eye of the storm. The Vortex. Time to hunker down, I thought. Batten down the hatches.
The knife was still in my pocket when the policeman stopped us on our return from the supermarket. Keep it light, i repeated to myself; Name, Rank and Press Affiliation only.
Where had we been? "Why, to the supermarket, Officer". Over-eager gesturing to the baguette in my backpack. How long were we staying in Cambodia? "Not long. Leaving presently. Tomorrow at the latest.".
He sent us on our way without even mentioning the ugly scene he had witnessed. For a hundred bucks, he'd probably have helped me beat the poor woman, I mused distractedly as we hurried away.
Bad Vibes. What had this city done to us? Had we descended to the level of dumb beasts? It was time to ponder this rotten assignment and get the hell out of this country.
The Typhoon was still raging in Southern Laos, but flights were still operating from Phnom Penh to Vientiane. The two middle-aged Australians on the balcony of our guest house were flying out in the morning, but reckoned the roads would still be passable.
"Just a bit of rain", shrugged the man, Steve, as he poured himself another huge glug of whiskey. Tell that to those poor buggers in Manila, I thought.
The couple had two 70cl bottles of whiskey on the table; one each. Steve mixed his in a pint glass with a dash of coke. Barb preferred Sprite. Neither offered me any.
They too had experienced viciousness at the hands of the locals. In Siam Reap, they had been followed all the way back to their hotel by a child - a girl of perhaps 10 years old - who had cursed them all the way home for not buying her bracelets.
Desperation hangs heavy in the air in Cambodia. Tourists are down. People are hungry. Moods quickly turn ugly; conversations sour. When the imperial conquerers of these lands first arrived, they won over the locals and bought up their natural resources with worthless glass beads. Now they're selling them back to us, one bracelet at a time. God help you if you choose not to buy them.
We decided to risk the floods and take the bus to Laos. We leave tomorrow at 7am and should be in Vientiene around 25hrs later, all being well. We are taking the direct bus, with no overnight stopover, in an effort to evade the two new Typhoons heading our way. With any luck we'll be in Vientiene before they hit. We have plenty of provisions - and a knife - in case things turn nasty. We'll attempt to sign in again once we reach the capital.
Hello everyone,
You will b surprised that our yesterday's expectations were not met and the 25 hour journey sems to be 48 hour journey even if we paid $4 more to avaoid it! Andy bloged 2 days ago in Phnom Penh and we are still on our way to Vientiane. Actually we had numerous stop overs, changed the bus / minibus 3 times already and are still in Pakse (just off the Cambodia-Laos border).
The good thing is we are moving, we are ok and there were no storms so far. We had to spend a night in a guest house 50km to the Laos border last night as we were dropped off and the driver told us that the border is closed after mentioning that he could take us but it would be more expensive, etc. Basically knowing how these things work we still were cought by local scams where they make you stop at their guest house, eat their food and make your journey much longer then you might have planned;-)
According to the latest news we will leave tonight at 8pm local time and we should be in Vientiane tomorrow morning, 6am local time. But of course we expect delays, bus to break or similar inconviniences... ;-)
Hugs <xx>
Renata
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Turbut nustebsite jei parasysiu, kad i Vientien (Laos sostine) isvaziavome vakar ryte 7.30 val ir dar nsame nei puses kelio nuvaziave. Vietoj pazadetos 25 val keliones mes patekome i kazka panasaus i 48 val kelione. Vakra 4 val buvome islaipinti is autobuso ir mums buvo pranesta, kad reikes apsinakvindindinti ju sveciu namuose (aisku uz papildoma uzmokesti), nes 4val atseit uzsidaro pasienis.... Hm. Kazkur pokalbio metu buvo delikaciai uzsiminta, kad vairuotojas mus galtu nvezti i pasieni, bt tai butu brangu... Hm. Tad teko pernakvoti sveciu namuos (pasistengme nueiti i kitus, ne ju siulomus) ir siandien ryte vel iskeliauti.
Dabar same Pakse miete, kuris yra Laos, netoli Laos-Kambodzos sienos ir musu laukia dar 600km pries akis. Kad atsigautume cia mes turejome vaziuoti autobusu ir 2 mikriukais... Dar vienas (o gal ir keli) autobusai musu lauks kelioneje i Vientien, kuria pradesime si vakara po 8val. Pasak musu saltiniu atvaziuoti i Vientian turetume po 10 val, t.y. 6 val ryto, bet mes esame pasiruose ir ilgesnei keliuonei, nes kol kas visi duoti laikai realybes neatitinka, nes viskas uztrunka dvigubai ilgiau...
Linkejimai <xx>
Renatukas
We arrived to Vientiane this morning at 7am safe and in a coach with sleeping beds only! That did pay for all our troubles, so we are happy and we had a nice sleep on the bus last night.
Tomorrow morning we are catching another bus to Luang Prabang (10 hours or so journey) and tonight we are going out to enjoy the local festival as streets are full of people and food is being cooked. At the moment we are having a glass of white wine and talking about family and friends. Nice.
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Mes atvykome i Vientiane si ryta 7val autobusu su lovomis (vien tik!). Visi musu vargai buvo atpirkti siuo autobusu, nes visa nakti galejome normaliai issimiegoti.
Rytoj ryte 7 val mes autobusu isvyksime i Luang Prabang miesta (10 val keliones), o siandien dziagsimes vietine svente, nes gatves pilnos zmoniu, visi verda, kepa maistus. Siuo metu mes geriame salta balta vyna ir kalbame apie seimas ir draugus. Gera.
(to be backdated to 25th of September or so)
Price negotiations on daily basis
Travelling in Asia generally seems to involve hagling, checking the arrangements and agreeing the price before making a deal. Cambodia is no different from that respect. Bargaining takes time and you need to be patient but if you do not hagle you pay sky high prices. It involves accomodation, travel (tuc-tuc and motobikes), massages, shopping in the markets for food and clothes. Prices here are relative depending on circumstances, person and the way you negotiate them. This experience is unique as it teaches to understand the value of things to you as individual as the prices are so relative. It depends how much you want to pay as there is no fixed price. I can imagine myself coming back to England and whilst shopping asking if they could give me a better price. This can cause surprised looks in Europe but it is the most natural way of shopping here. It all is market rules here. I noticed that bargaining is easier for me as in Lithuania we have markets and the same rules are valid just the price negotiation is a bit more sensible and you get a closer to reality price offered at the start. Cambodian sellers though are not as crazy giving the starting price as Chinese (where the starting point can be 10 times of the last price) so shopping is fun here.
Three main rules:
1. Know what are you prepared to pay and stick to it;
2. Learn to say "no" firmly;
3. When negotiating have a sense of humor and enjoy the process.
What we have done in Cambodia so far
On the first day we took it easy. We caught a taxi at the Phnom Penh airport and asked to take us to the Lakeside, part of the city next to a lake where all the backpackers stay. That lake is being destroyed as some Korean company bought the land and all the people will have to leave Lakeside some time soon. The driver offered us a guest house he could take us to but whilst travelling we learned to be a bit skeptic of the offers, so we just asked to drop us off in the area. All of our accomodation is selected depending on recommendations or just choosing the location and just cheking out the rooms and prices. No booking, no extra fees. So far it proved to be a much cheaper way and whilst looking at a few places we are getting a better understanding of what we can choose from.
The next day we took our time and walked to the National museum, had a glass of cool white wine by the river.
On the third day we hired a tuc-tuc driver for all day and visited almost all the touristic sites in Phom Phen (Independence Monument, Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, Tuol Sleng (S 21) museum, Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda).
The day after we hired a motorbike with a driver and he took us to Udong Mountain. It was fun to be on the back of the motorbike, packed like sausages driving in the country side. On the way back we took a ferry across the river, had a stuffed frog as a snack and then stopped at a muslim village.
In Siam Riep
On the first day we visited the floating village and the flooded forest what involved a motor boat trip to the village, a small boat trip to the flooded forest, seeing the fish farms, a walk aroun the local school which accomodates 700 children from 3 villages, an amazing lunch at the floating restaurant where we tried the local fresh fish and it was the best tasting fish ever!
We did all the touristy stuff what involves visiting the Angkor temples. We spent there 2 days. First day we hired bicycles (for $1) and cycled to the Angkor Wat and Bayon in Angkor Thom complex. On the way we saw monkeys and stopped to have a look. Monkeys were playing with local children who were feeding them with bananas and lotus seeds. The curious cheeky creatures climbed on us. AT some point I had 2 of them sitting on my head! There were2 monkeys sitting on Andy's shoulders and whilst one was attracting his attention the other one was going through the pockets in his bag! At one point a money bit me in the leg for no obvious reason and then we decided that it is time to leave. The next day we took a tuc-tuc at 5am and drove to Ta Phrom (the temple from Indiana Jones and Tomb Rider). We expected to see a sunrise there but due to the hight trees we did not see any of it though it was a very mysterious start of the day.Then we continued to the other sites in Angkor Thom complex (the largest puzzle in the world - Baphuon,Terrace of Elephants and Terrace of the Leaper King). On the way out we stopped at Ta Keo which is an uncompleted temple and is missing carvings seen on the other temples.
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Kasdienines derybos
Keliones Azijoje susideda is daugybes faktoriu, tarp kuriu derejimasis ir sutartine kaina yra kasdienybe, visuomet yra pasitikrinama, kas itraukiama i sutarti. Kambodza nera isimtis. Derimasi ilgai ir kuo didesne yra suma tuo ilgiau trunka pacios derybos. Jei nesideresi tai mokesi 10 kartu daugiau. Derimasi kasdiena ir beveik del visko: nakvyne, kelione (motociklais ir tuk-tuk), masazai, perkant maista ir drabuzius. Kaina yra releatyvus dalykas, priklausantis nuo aplinkybiu, asmenybes ir kiek esi pasiruoses moketi. As save isivaizduoju grizusia i Anglija ir parduotuve klausiancia: Ar galetumete man padaryti nuolaida? Tai gali sukelti nuostaba Europoje, bet butent taip yra prekinamasi Azijoje. Cia viskas ir visur yra zaidziama pagal turgaus taisykles. Tos taisykles yra pansios i leituviskasis. Kinijoje gi prekeiviai gali pasiulyti pradine kaina, kuri gali buti 10 kartu didesne uz paskutine, cia kaina gali buti padvigubinta, tad prekintis ir deretis cia yra lengviau.
Trys pagrindines taisykles:
1. Apsispresk kiek esi pasiryzes moketi ir nekeisk nuomones;
2. Ismok grieztai pasakyti "ne";
3. Derintis galima ir pajuokauti. Megaukis derybu procesu.
Ka mes nuveikeme Kambodzoje
Atskride pasigavome taksi is Phnom Penh oro uosto ir vaziavome link ezero, tai yra miesto dalis, kur apsistoja daugybe biudzetiniu keliautoju kaip mes. Taksistas rekomendavo sveciu namus, bet mes bekeliaudami tapome siek tiek skeptiski tokiems pasiulymams ir tiesiog papraseme kad mus isleistu prie ezero. Sis ezeras tuoj bus uzpiltas, nes korejos kompanija nusipirko ta zeme ir ruosiasi iskeldinti netoliese gyvenancius. Islipe mes atradome labai pigia vietele, kurioje ir apsistojome kelioms dienoms ($3 nakciai).
Kita diena ejome pasivaikscioti iki Nacionalinio musiejaus, isgereme taure salto balto vyno prie upes.
Trecia diena mes nusisamdeme tuk-tuk vairuotoja, kuris mus apveziojo po visas lankytinas vietas (Karaliskuosius rumus ir sidabrine sventykla, zudymo laukus ir kankinimo muzieju, nepriklausomybes monumenta).
Kita diena seke kelione motociklu i Udong kalna. Motociklu keliavome tryse ir grizdami atgal keltu kelemes per upe, uzkandome idarytos varles delikatesa, aplankeme musulmonu kaima. Belaukiant kelto as buvau labai tyrinejamai vietiniu apziureta, galbut del mano trumpoku sortu (pagal vietinius standartus).
Siam Riep
Pirma diena mes issiruoseme i pluduriuojanti kaima ir apsemta miska uz Siam Riep ribu. Iki kaimo mes plaukeme motorine valtimi, tada buvome pasodinti i labai zema ir plokscia vietine valti su 2 mergaitem, kurios mus nuplukde i apsemta miska. Ten vietiniai augina zuvis, vadinamojoje zuvu fermoje (didziulis narvas vandenyje). Apziureje miska, mes grizome atgal i kaima, pavaiksciojome aplink mokykla, kurioje mokosi 700 mokiniu is 3 kaimu, tada ejome i pluduriuojanti restorana paragauti sviezios vietines zuvies, kuri buvo be galo skani. Per usus varvejo, burnoj neturejau.
Sekancias pora dienu sekeme tradiciniu turistiniu keliu. Apziurinejome tukstanciu metu senumo Angkor sventyklas. Pirma diena issinuomavome dviracius ($1 dienai) ir myneme i Angkor sventyklas (apie 9km nuo miesto). Per diena aplankeme Angkor Wat sventykla, tada myneme link Angkor Thaom komplekso, pakeliui pamateme bezdziones, zaidziancias su vietiniais vaikais ir sustojome. Vaikai bezdziones maitino bananais ir lotoso seklomis, kurios yra labai skanios, saldzios). Bezdziones isidrasino ir eme zaisti su mumis. Vienu metu 2 smarkuoles sedejo ant mano galvos! Pora bezdzionaiciu isitaise ant Andzio peciu ir kol viena patrauke jo demesi, kita eme knistis po Andzio kuprines kiseneles! Vienu metu nei is sio nei is to viena is bezdzioniu ikando man i koja be jokios akivaizdzios priezasties kas mus paskatino nutraukti zaidimus ir minti i Bayon sventykla, kur 216 karaliaus Avalokitesvaros galvu smalsiai zvelgia aplinkui. Antra diena mes pasiememe tuk-tuk ir vaziavome sutikti saules 5val ryto prie Ta Phrom sventyklos (zinoma jums is Indianos Dzauns ir Kapu plesikes filmu), tada pasukome i kitas Angkor Thom sventyklu kompleksa pro Ta Keo sventykla, kuri buvo nebaigta statyti ir neturi sienos raiziniu labai budingu visoms sventykloms. Apziurejome drambliu terasa, tada pasukome link raupu karaliaus terasos, nors dabar mokslininkai teigia, kad tai ne raupu karaliaus, o mirties dievo terasa.
Just a quick note to say that whenever we check our blog, the weather indicator on the page always seems to say 'clouds' or 'rain' when in fact our days have been invariably sun-filled.
In case anyone is put off visiting Laos, it is not cloudy and rainy here as that weather gadget says; it's really hot and sunny. The only rain we have experienced has been in the middle of the night.
Tomorrow we are going to an elephant sanctuary where we will take a short (1hr) elephant ride and then travel by boat up-river to a waterfall where we can swim. Tomorrow night, we'll take the bus to Vang Vieng.
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Tiesiog greitai pastaba pasakyti, kad kai mes tikriname savo dienoratį, orų rodiklį puslapyje visada atrodo, kad pasakyti, kad "debesys" ir "lietus", kai i tikrųjų mūsų dienų buvo visada saulė upildyti.
Tuo atveju, kas yra atidėti Lankymūsi Laosas, tai nėra aikus ir lietingą čia, kad oras mini sako, tai tikrai karta ir saulėta. Tik lietus mes patyrėme jau į nakties vidurį.
Rytoj mes einame į dramblių ventyklą, kur mes priimsime trumpas (1val) dramblys vainėti ir tada keliauti laivu Nilo iki krioklio, kur galima maudytis. Rytoj vakare, mes priimsime autobusas į Vang Vieng.
Today I woke up arround 8.30 am in our little outside room with a mosquito net above the mattress.One of the first things I got into was my latest book - Jayne Eyer. I remember watching the series as a child, probably even before my brother was born and really liking the story. I decided I must revisit it and see what I think of it now and so far I am loving the book, the language, the feministic perspective of the main character.
Later I had a shower in our outside bathroom made from bamboo;-) and after breakfast Andy & I rented a coule of bicycles and cycled to the Vang Vieng organic farm which is maybe 3km away from our hostel.The farm is lovely and still being built. They grow organic fruit and vegetables as well as pigeons, chickens, geese, pigs and goats. From the goats milk they make amazing organic cheese which we tried visiting Luang Prabang. There is a simple restaurant which seems to make very tasty food.Tomorrow we will go to the farm at 7am and see if they could use our help to feed goats for a day.On the way back we got some of the legendary goats cheese and bought a bottle of lovely white wine. This will be our late lunch today. At the moment the cheese and wine are chilling in the fridge... Yummy!
The latest photos are here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/LuangPrabang#
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Siandien pradudau apie 8.30 ryto. Pirmiausia godziai atsiverciau Dzeine Eir ir emiau skaityti. Atsimenu kaip dar pries mano broliui gimstant su mama ziurejau seriala ir man be galo patiko toji meiles istorija, tad dabar nusprendziau ja perskaityti ir ivertinti is naujo. Kol kas be galo patinka knyga, grazi senoviska anglu kalba ir feministikas Deines charakteris.Paskaiciusi keleta skyriu ejau maudytis i musu vonia, kuri yra lauke. Toks mazas bambukinis namelis. Jaukus ir neiprastas mano skoniui.Po kukliu pusryciu (balinta kava su kondensuotu pienu ir ryziu paploteliai su braskiu uogiene) mes issinuomavome dviracius ir ismyneme i organine ferma, kuri yra isikurusi apie 3km nuo musu sveciu namu.Fermoje auginamos darzoves ir vaisiai bei prieskoniai, vistos, balandziai, zasys, parseliai ir ozkos. Is tu ozku pieno jie gamina istabaus skoniu organini ozkos suri. Mes to surio ragavome dar budami Luang Prabang ir jau tada nusprendeme, kad smagu butu i ta ferma patiems nuvykti. Vat taip ir padareme.Rytoj vel minsime i ferma 7val ryto ir pasiulysime savo pagalba. As noreciau pamatyti surio gaminimo procesa, padeti priziureti ozkas. Zodziu, ismokti si bei ta naujo ir praleisti siek tiek laiko su gyvunais.Pakeliui i namus mes nusipirkome siek tiek tojo legendinio surio, buteli balto vyno. Tai bus musu pietus. Siuo metu jie tupi saldytuve. Niam!
Cia yra musu paskutines nuotraukos is Luang Prabang http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/LuangPrabang#
Hello everyone,When I am writing this email it is late morning in Vang Vieng. Both Andy & I are up and sat in the communal area in our hostel, by the long breakfast table where everyone gathers in the mornings and evenings. We had our mug of nescafe coffee this morning. Now we are listening to the lecture on Buddhism presented by the owner of our hostel, Phong. Andy is sat in a hammock with the mini laptop on his lap, I am sat on the floor next to Phong. We listen as I type this note. It is an amazing activity to be done at noon (now it is 12.14) in the view of the limestone hills in front of us. It is sunny. It is warm and it is nice just to be sat like this with no hurry in our minds.Later we plan to get something what reminds of home for Andy & of England for me - a steak and ale pie maybe.Have a nice day
Our new pictures from Vang Vieng are here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Vangvieng#
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Sveikuciai,Siuo metu kai rasau sia zinute mes esame Vang Vieng (miestelis Laos'e). Velyvas rytas, arba tiksliau vidudienis. Mes atsikeleme pries kelias valandas, isgereme nescafe kavos. Siuo metu Andis sedi hamake, supasi su nesiojamu kompiuteriu ant keliu. As sedziu ant pagalveles, salia musu sveciu namu savininko Phong, kuris sia akimirka (12.14 val) skaito paskaita apie Budizma. Musu grupe susiburusi aplink pusryciu stala, kuris yra ilgas ir gali sutalpinti apie 20 zmoniu. Sis stalas yra traukos centras rytais ir vakarais. Cia galima sutikti visus sveciu namu gyventojus. Vaizdas, iskylantis pries mano akis, yra neapsakomai grazus. Miniatiuriniu kalnu vaizdas, atsiveriantis tiesiai priesais pusryciu stala. Upe, juosianti kalnu linija. Siandien sauleta. Siandien ramu ir gera tiesiog klausytis pokalbiu be jokiu ypatingu rupesciu musu mintyse.Veliau mes eisime valgyti to, kas Andziui primena namus, o man - Anglija - steiko ir alaus pyrago.
Cia musu naujausios nuotraukikes http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Vangvieng#
Buciuoju x
Yesterday in the morning we took a boat trip arround Phi Pihi and surrounding islands. We planned to do this a day before but the trip had to be moved because of the rain in the morning. The aventure started at 11am and finished just after 6pm, so it was a very good value for 500B each (£18). It included lunch but this was the worst part of the trip as it did not taste well at all and contained fried mixed veg and rice and some accidentaly fried ants (!!) which was not a part of the recipie. Otherwise the trip was great.
We snorkled in 3 places where the water was so clear I have never seen before and all the corals and fish were beautiful. We saw some small baracuda, angel fish, sea urchins, banner fish, puffer fish and lots of others we even do not know how the names of. We stopped in one beach for lunch and ended trip in Maya beach which was an idilic paradise with sandy banks and beautiful conditions for swiming. We left the island just before the sunset and got into strong wind and pouring rain. We got cold, soaked and then the rain stopped and we saw the sunset. It was a very strange moment as it seemed as 3 days were crushed into one: there was a calm sunset and in the other direction there was heavy rain still pouring down and looking the other way I could see Phi Phi not touched by any of those, just getting cosily cuddled by the coming evening.
When we got of the boat we were hungry and wet. Strangely we noticed rain and cold works differently here. It was very warm on the island and we even did not change and went to get some dinner straight away. We eat baracuda and sword-fish steaks with rice, potatoe, clams, fried with garlic and spring onion and a mix of stir fried vegetables. With a glass of cheap wine it was a delightful dinner for a hungry couple. Some of the dinner ended up in a stomack of few friendly cats, I must say.
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Vakar velyva rytmeti mes pasigavome valti aplink Pi Pi ir ja supancias salas. Sia kelione planavome jau diena pries tai, bet ja reikejo atideti, nes ryte lijo. Musu nuotykiai prasidejo 11 val ryte, o i sala grizome kazkur siek tiek po 6 val vakaro. Keliones kaina buvo nerealiai gera, nes praleidome 7 val ant vandens uz £18. I kaina iejo plaukmenu, akiniu ir tubeles nuoma, valtis ir pietus. Sie pietus buvo blogiausia keliones dalis, nes prie pakepintu ryziu su darzovemis buvo ir pakepintos skruzdes, kurios nebuvo recepte. Sitai isbraukus kelione buvo nereali.
Mes buvome issoke is valties trejeta kartu apziureti zuvis ir koralus, kurie buvo neapsakomai grazus, spalvingi ir judrus. Mateme juros ezius ir daugybe kitu, kuriu pavadinimu net nezinau. Buvome sustoje viename is pasakisku papludymiu papietauti. Grizome beveik sutemus ir pakeliui mus uzklupo audra, tad sulijo ir supute vejas. Saloje gi buvo silta ir ne zenklo tu eju, kurie buvo mus pagave pakeliui. Stebint saulelydi vienoje dienoje susiliejo bent jau trys: ramiai besileidzianti saule, kitoje puseje dar pliaupiantis lietus ir sala, skestanti vakaro glebyje.
Is valties issokome greitai, nes buvome slapi, alkani ir susale. Keista, bet pastebejome kad saltis ir lietus veikia visai kitaip siuose tropinese salyse, nes sala buvo silta ir mes kaip mat susilome ir nusprendeme eiti tiesiai i restoraneli vakarieniauti. Mes uzkandome barakudos ir pjuklazuves steiku su bulvemis ir ryziais, greitai apkeptomis darzovemis ir kriauklyutemis, troskintomis su cesnakais ir svogunu laiskais. Su taure pigaus balto vyno tai buvo skanumelis, o ne vakariene. Dalis musu vakarienes savo lemti sutiko keliu draugisku kaciu skrandziuose, turiu prisipazinti.
Hello everyone,
How are you doing? We hope you are well and happy. At the moment we are sat in an internet cafe in Krabi (south of Thailand), beach called Railay. It is a very nice, small and a very cheap place.
Unfortunately our time in Thailand is running out and we are due to leave for Australia on 4th of November from bangkok. Due to the leaving date coming closer we decided to leave Railay today, so now we are just killing some time waiting for our traditional longtail boat (!!!) to one of the ports in Krabi. The journey should take around 30 min, then we will get a mini bus for other bit of 30 min to our coach and then probably arround 13 hours during the night on the coach from Krabi to Bangkok. All this journey cost only 500 baat (10 pounds) per person! We should arrive to Bagkok on Saturday morning at 5.30am (or a bit later). Then we will have internet in our room and be able to upload all the photos and blog about our adventures.
Hugs <xx>
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Labukas visiems,
Kaip Jus gyvenate? Mes tikimes, kad esate sveiki ir laimingi. Siuo metu mudu abudu sedime interneto kavineje Railay papludimyje, Krabi mieste (pietu Tailandas) ir laukiame savo valties (!!!) i krabi uosta.
Deja, musu laikas Tailande eina i pabaiga ir mes turime isskristi i Australija 4 lapkricio, tad nusprendeme siandien isvykti i Bankoka. Kelione yra idomi, nes 30 min plauksime vadinamaja tradicine ilgauodege valtimi iki uosto Krabi. Ta valtis yra medine tokia su varikliuku;-) Po to musu laukia dar koki 30min kelione mikriuku iki autobuso ir tada 13 val kelione nakti i Bankoka. Atvykti turetume 5.30 val ryto (ar siek tiek veliau pagal tailandietiskus standartus). Istabiausia kad visa si valties, mikriuko ir autobuso kombinacija tekainuoja 500 baatu, kas yra apie 38 litus! Uz tokia kaina Lietuvoje is Vilniaus iki Palangos neimanoma butu atvaziuoti, o cia tks didelis atstumas ir 15 valandu kelione! Bankoke turetume buti sestadienio ryta, tad ten pasistengsime gauti kambariuka su bevieliu interneto rysiu ir tada sudesime visas fotografijas ir aprasysime savo nuotykius.
Buckiai xx
Just an update on yesterday's blog...
The coach journey this time was BAD. Long and tiring. To put the story short - at 8pm our coach was stopped by police as the company did not have a license to drive tourist bus or something similar. That ended up by the coach driver/s being arrested, the bus of the company coming up and us standing in the street waiting for progress... At the end of things police arranged a "government" bus for which we had to pay (350 THB) and we arrived to Bangkok only 9.30am;(
We were quite happy to reach our destination without any other major incidents;-)
There are some new photos in Bangkok folder and some from Phi Phi and Raylay, see the albums here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite
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Cia zinute prie vakarykscios Tailando transporta garbinancios...
Musu kelione autobusu nebuvo tokia sekminga si karta, nes musu autobusas 8 val vakaro buvo sustabdytas. Policija sulaike vairuotoja/jus, nes kompanija neturejo licensijos vezti turistus tuo autobusu ar kazkas panasaus. Atvaziavo kompanijos savininkas ar virsininkas, o mes praleidome kelias valandas sededami ant saligatvio ir laukdami istorijos tesinio. 11 val vakaro policija mums suorganizavo "valstybini" autobusa uz kuri turejome sumoketi papildoma 350THB ir i Bankoka atvaziavome tik 9.30 ryto...
Buvome patenkinti, kad pakeliui viskas klojosi normaliai ir atvykome sveiki ir gyvi;-)
Naujos nuotraukos is Pi Pi salos, Raylay papludymio ir keli priedai prie Bankoko fotografiju yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite
Have a look at our movie here / Paziurekite i musu filma cia
http://www.acmi.net.au/timeslice/Timeslice.htm?file=ts-20091105-9c687d782a8f28c1548ea80caa7d7eb1.flv
The movie was made in Melbroune in moving image centre / Fi,mas buvo padarytas Melburne judanciuo vaizdo centre
Happy Saturday to everyone and greetings from sunny Melbourne! We arrived here 3 days ago and had a great and cosy time here sop far. Andy & I are staying with my Lithuanian friends Zivile and Linas at their lovely modern and super tidy and clean apartment in St. Kilda, South Melbourne. The guys are great and take us to various places and give us tips where to go and what to see, etc (thank you Zivile and Linas!). We are well looked after and just enjoying the stylish neighborhood, nice food and getting warm city.
On the first day of our arrival we were taken out for a lovely pizza dinner, the second day was spent sleeping and included a little venture to the city center and Federation square where we spent a few hours in the moving image center (see previous blog) and today we explored the neighborhood, lovely pets shops, boutiques, etc. We are meeting our friend we met in during our China trip for brunch tomorrow in North Melbourne, maybe we will stop at Lithuanian club for some food.
On Wednesday we are due to pick up our van and then our Australia travels will start. We are already thinking how to save money as it does not last long here. The plan is to fish for some of our dinners (fishing permit and experience to be gained) and shop in cheap supermarkets, cook in our van + bbq. So our first trip might be to the local shops to get some stuff for the start of our journey as we plan to eat healthily and cheaply for all the time in Australia. We promise to report on our progress!
Andy has just gone to a casino with Linas who is a professional poker player, so he will have some interesting stories to tell when he is back (hopefully with lots of winnings:-).
Have a great weekend!
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Sveiki visi, linkejimai Jums is sauleto pavasarejancio Melburno ir tikiuosi kad savaitgalis eina gerai. Mes jau trecia diena kai esame Melburne ir megaujames jo teikiamomis gerybemis - ypatingomis kavomis, skaniais vynais, stilingais zmonemis ir t.t.
Mes apsistojome draugu Ziviles ir Lino zaviame moderniame, svaroiame ir be galo tvarkingame butuke pietu Melburne, St. Kildoje. Musu seimininkai mumis be galo rupinasi (aciu Jums, Zivile ir Linai!): mus pirma vakara vedesi vakarienes i zavu itaska picu restoraneli, pagelbsti patarimais kur eiti ir ka pamatyti bei pakencia musu maista, kuri gaminame vos ne kasdien.
Pirma diena tesutalpinome vakariene ir ejome miegoti gana anksti, nes buvome siek tiek pavarge. Antra diena islekeme i miesto centra, federacijos aikste, apziurejome judancio ivaizdzio paroda, trecia diena tiesiog vaiksciojome kaiminysteje, skaiteme knygas. O dabar Andis isleke su Linu i kazino, tad jis tures idomiu istoriju Jums papasakoti kai gris.
Treciadienio ryta mes turime pasiimti savo vagoneli, kurio ketiname po Australija vezintis 2.5 menesio. Jau planuojame, kad pirma stotele bus pigi maisto parduotuve, kur pasikrausime "pasaru" kelioms savaitems, nes cia viskas palyginus (su Azija) yra brangu, tad mums su pinigais teks elgtis labai atsargiai. Planuojame ismokti zvejoti ir kartais taip sau vakariene pasigauti, maista keptis ant barbekiu, kurios yra viesos, pirkti tik sveika maista ir tada ziuresime kaip mums seksis taupyti.
Rytoj 11 val ryto ketiname susitikti su mergaite, su kuria susipazinome keliones po Kinija metu ir kartu pietauti siaures Melburne, tad nekantraujame, nes gal pakeliui uzsuksime i lietuviu bendruomenes namus, gal gausime cepelinu;-)
Gero Jums savaitgalio!
Staying at our friends' beautiful apartment leads us to a lot of lazy days as Andy says "lazy is cheap" which is true and at the moment it is a lot of fun. Yesterday we met our friend Eleanor for brunch in a cafe Small block in North Melbourne where we had big and summer breakfast plates and they were such a delight!
Afterwards we decided to find the Lithuanian club which is close to Queen Victoria's market what was a nice late morning mission for us. The club proved to be an interesting and cosy experience, we had couple of bottles of Lithuanian beer Svyturys and chatted to a few people.
Today we spent our afternoon at St Kilda's beach reading books which was great. A lot of people were out sunbathing, walking their dogs, walking, eating, chatting... We had our chips and grilled chicken with coleslaw for dinner there. I posted a photo of the beach we were at today for you. Enjoy:-)
More Melbourne photos are here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/MelbourneNov#
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Gyvenimas pas Lina ir Zivile ju graziame bute mus skatina tinginiauti, nes kaip Andis sako "tingulys ir miegas yra pigus ir geri malonumai". Vakr mes buvome iseje susitikti su Eleanora, draugyte su kuria susipazinome viesedami Kinijoje. Ji mus nusivede i kavinuke siaures Melburne, kuri vadinasi Mazas Blokas. Ten valgeme labai skanius vasariskus pusrycius (nuotrauka bus Pikasos albume).
Po to nusprendeme atrasti Lietuviu kluba, kuris yra Melburno centre, netoliese prie karalienes Viktorijos centrinio turgaus. Atradome. Susitikome su daug idomiu zmoniu, isgereme Svyturio alaus. Buvo be galo idomu sutikti iseivius ir ju vaikus, klausytis ju gyvenimu istoriju.
Siandien velyva popiete nusprendeme praleisti St Kildos papludimyje. Ten buvo pilna duzgianciu zmoniu, vieni begiojo, kiti deginosi, vedziojo sunis, snekuciavosi, buriavo, i merginas akis varvino, zodziu ten buvo smagu knygas skaityti ir visciuka vakarienei susluoti su bulvytemis fri;-) Papludymio nuotrauka idejau prie sito iraso, tad ir Jus pamatysite kaip papludimys siandien atrode Melburne.
Daugiau Melburno nuotrauku yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/MelbourneNov#
We left Melbourne 4 days ago and now are driving on the Great Ocean Road. It is the 4th day we have the camper van and so far we are loving the journey itself, the freedom this vehicle gives and the opportunities on the Great Ocean Road. I am driving and Andy is navigating as this proves to be the best combination as I do hate navigating in the places I have no knowledge off;-)
Now a bit about what we have done so far...
Driving day Nr 1
We picked up the van early afternoon and started our journey to the Great Ocean Road. On the way we stopped at the Aldi and got basic food supplies for our journey. We stopped quite a few times on the way to Anglesea where we decided to try our a camp. The camp was beautiful and had anything a traveller might need starting with kitchen and bathrooms and finishing with a pool. We arrived quite late, so we did not do much, just cooked some dinner and showered.
Day Nr 2
We woke up early in the morning as the check out was at 10am and we wanted to cook a meal and fill the water tank. All took much longer and cooking was left to later as we had trouble with getting the water into the van and all we needed to do was just to jam the hose inside the tap. We stopped at the gas refill station as we though the gas might have run out but the man who checked it found out that it was not turned onAs we never had a camper van we put all this to learning process. We saw an echidna on the road who got terrified when a lorry drove just past him! We bought a fishing road and some bait at Apollo Bay too. That night we decided to sleep next to the ocean and stopped next to the Twelve Apostles geographical feature. We had amazing sunset views and saw all the stars at night.
Day Nr 3
We got up early in the morning, around 5am as it was time to charge the battery which might have almost run out through the night and drove to the Princetown, almost the very end of the Great Ocean road. As the trip was very enjoyable we decided to come back the same way and do some fishing. So that day (yesterday) we fished twice - in the afternoon and in the evening. We did not catch anything but as it was our first fishing attempt it was kind of ok. We saw a big ray though which spent almost an hour close to the rocks we were fishing from.
Day Nr 4
We decided to drive another 150-200km and then stay over on a camp site of some sort. On our way we saw a koala in the tree looking at the sunrise. It was quite sweet to spot it there, slowly moving around the tree and enjoying the sunshine.
We decided to stay at a camp all day and find one which would have internet access, so here we are, staying at Airreys Inlet, spending all day just relaxing, uploading new photos, writing emails to everyone and updating the blog. Andy is not very happy with me spending hours on the mini laptop though it takes time to blog and do the same entry in 2 languages!
Koala hugs to you
For the Great Ocean Road photos please follow this link http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/TheGreatOceanRoadDidysisVandenynoKelias
For the Melbourne zoo photos this one http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/MelbourneZoo#
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Mes Melburna palikome pries beveik 4 dienas ir dabar vaziuojame Didziuoju Vandenyno keliu. Be galo esame patenkinti autobusiuku ir jo teikiama laisve, nes esame beveik visiskai nepriklausomi nuo nieko. Turime ratus, zemelapi, lova, palapine, virtuve, mikrobangu krosnele, dujine, saldytuvas ir visa pataline, indus. Zodziu nieko mums netruksta. Kelias, kuriuo vaziuojame yra pagrindine atrakcija, nes jis eina palei vandenyna ir pribloskia nepakartojamais vaizdais (ziureti cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/TheGreatOceanRoadDidysisVandenynoKelias). As vairuoju, nes Andis geriau duoda instrukcijas, be to jam peti tebeskauda:-)
Dabar siek tiek apie musu kelione...
Vairavimo diena Nr 1
ISvaziavome is Melburno, pakeliui sustojome Aldi parduotuveje nusipirkti pagrindiniu maisto produktu. Sis parduotuviu tinklas Europoje zinomas kaip pigus, tad mes ten pasiiememe paprastu maistu, kuriuos galime pasigaminti autobusiuke. Tada kelia teseme ir vakare atvaziavome i autobusiuku parka, kuriame ir apsistojome. Tokie parkai turi viska, ko keliautojams kaip mes ir su didesnemis transporto priemonemis gali pasinoreti: skalbyklas, dusus, virtuve, TV kambari, baseina ir t.t. Kadangi mes atvaziavome per velai tai tik spejome palisti po dusu ir issivirti vakariene.
Diena Nr 2
Pabudome ankstokai, apie 8.30 val, nes iki issiregistravimo (10 val) mes norejome pasigaminti pusrycius ir maisto pietums, prisipildyti autobusiuko baka vandens. Isejo tik antroji uzduotis, nes ilgokai kankinomes kol atradome kaip ta baka pripilti. Dar maneme, kad dujos pasibaige, tad nebegalime gaminti, bet issiaiskinome, kad duju balionas buvo uzsuktas;-) Zodziu visokie nesusipratimai ir pamokos kaip elgtis su tokia transporto priemone. Sitos pamokos as tikiu nesibaigs iki musu keliones po Australija pabaigos. Dienos metu nusipirkome meskere, nes nusprendeme ismokti zuvauti ir susigauti sau pietus. Vaziuodami mateme ekidna (kaip ir ezys, ziureti zoologijos sodo nuotraukas), kuri vos isvenge suplioskimo po sunkveziniu, nes vairuotojas sumanevravo taip, kad ji saugiai po masinos viduriu palindo... Ketvirtadienio nakti miegojome priesais vandenyna, netoli 12 apastalu uolu, priesais mus nusileidom saule, po to mateme gilu ir zvaigzdeta dangu kaip niekad...
Diena Nr 3
Ryte pabudome labai anksti, apie 5val ryto, nes bijojome kad autobusiuko akumuliatorius nuses jei jo kas kokios 12 valandu nepakrausime, tad 5 val ryto vaziavome toliau. Ta diena (t.y. vakar) nuvaziavome beveik iki paties Didziojo Vandenyno kelio pabaigos. Kadangi kelias yra be galo ispudingas nusprendeme juo vaziuoti ir atgal. Uzsukome i Apollo Bay miestuka. Vakar 2 kartus zvejojome - anksti per pietus ir velai vakare 6-8.30 val. Nieko nepagavome, bet turint omeny kad buvo pirmas zvejybos ketinimas, tai nera nuostabu. Mateme didziule plokscia zuvi, kurios lietuvisko pavadinimo nezinau, bet ji vadinasi Ray (pamatysite musu albumo nuotraukose). Apollo Bay miestelyje ir nakvojome.
Diena Nr 4
Siandien atsibudome 6 val ryto is isjudejome. Pakeliui as pamaciau koala medyje, stebincia kylancia saule ir besidziaugiancia siltais saules spinduleliais.
Siandien apsistojome Aireys Inlet miestuke pavaziave gal 150-200km, nes norejome atrasti vieta su internetu, sudeti nuotraukas, pasiskaityti elektronini pasta, prisipilti baka vandens, nes nebeturime vandens indams plauti, tad Andis dabar itariai stebi mane jau beveik 4 valandas sedincia prie kompiuterio, rasancia, dedancia nuotraukas i musu albuma, skaitancia visu laiskus ir zinutes.
Koalos apkabinimai Jums
Melburno zoologijos sodo nuotraukos yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/MelbourneZoo#
We have had our campervan for a few days now and we love it. Australia is a great place to drive around... petrol is half the price of the UK and there is so much space so you don't have to pay for parking unless you're in a big city. Not only that, but we can just park up off the road and sleep at night. It's technically illegal to do that in some places, but we asked a policeman last night if we were allowed and he said it would be fine as long as we weren't being a nuisance.
Renata is doing all the driving for now as my shoulder / arm is still giving me a few problems. I have an x-ray and ultrasound refferal which i will probably get done in the next few days, but i think it just needs some time to heal.
Whilst it's healing, i've decided to avoid surfing, which involves a lot of shoulder action (paddling out to sea, etc) and we've taken up fishing as both a recreational activity and hopefully a source of food. It's pretty cheap to fish here... we got a decent carbon-fiber rod, tackle, bait and 2x fishing licenses for under £50. We promptly lost our first fishing rig in the water after half an hour... it just seemed to come untied and fall off the line... and it was tied by the guy in the fishing shop!
So, we realised it's much cheaper to set up our own fishing rigs rather than buy them ready-made and have a selection of sinkers, hooks and other paraphernalia and Renata has already become adept at tying proper fishing knots! (a skill I have yet to master). We have an awful lot to learn about sea fishing but we are determined to keep practising until we are competent. Local fishing-people are very helpful and everyone here seems pretty friendly. Renata did have a go at catching an enormous stingray yesterday, which could be seen clearly from the rocks we were standing on. Just as well it didn't bite, as it would have probably taken our rod (and quite possibly Renata) with it, or else done a Steve Irwin job on us as we tried to land it. It was enormous... easily 3 feet in 'wingspan'.
Tomorrow we're heading out early to do some fishing from the beach and then head off in the camper van on our next adventure.
Hey there,
Please do not be frightened by the title but we drove into Melbourne this morning to get a medcare card (allows free medical treatment) and to get a scan for Andy's arm which is not getting better. Andy has an appointment tomorrow and got a medcare card this morning, so it is likely we will be spending tonight in Melbourne and hopefully leaving when the results will be discussed with a doctor. I am getting a medcare card too just in a case! Today we plan to do some more sight seeing, wonder, use internet as we found a shopping mall where it is free:-)
Hugs <>
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Sveiki,
Tikiuosi, kad labai nenugasdinau irtaso pavadinimu, bet si ryta mes atvaziavome i Melburna, nes Andzio petys negereja, tad nusprendeme, kad reikia padaryti nuotrauka. Pirmiausia isigijome medcare kortele, kuri garantuoja nemokama skubu gydyma/apziura. As tokia kortele taip pat planuoju gauti, nes jei ka tai labai pravers ja tureti. Andis rytoj eis rentgeno nuotraukos darytis ir gal gal rytoj suspesime dar ta nuotrauka gydytojui parodyti. Zodziu mes gyvename idomiai. Siandiena turime laisva, tad pasivaiksciosime Melburno gatvemis, as ikvepimo ieskosiu galerijose ir idomiose parduotuvese, Andis planuoja skaityti knyga;-) Dar radome prekybos centra, kur internetas yra nemokamas, tad jame irgi daug laiko zadame praleisti siandien;-) Tikekites daug elektroniniu laisku.
Buckis x
Good morning everyone,
It is 11am as we are sat in McDonalds (due to free wireless internet ) at Bairnsdale city. Last night we stayed over at the King Lake Waterfront camp-site in Bairnsdale which was a lovely place to stop over. In the evening we went fishing using mussels as bait but ended up with no fish (yet and again!) but decided to try and steam some of those mussels which was a great idea as they were very tasty! So this morning we collected at l;east 1 kg of those mussels, washed them and prepared for cooking later on, for lunch and dinner! My hands and nails are not doing well as they got scratched a lot during the mussel collection process, so next time I am wearing gloves:-)
Andy's shoulder was x-rayed and ultra-sounded and doctor confirmed that there is no injury now, what is great news!
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Labas rytas visiemus,
Dabar yra 11 val ryto Bairnsdale mieste, kur dabar sedime McDonalds, nes cia galime naudotis nemokamu bevieliu internetu. Vakar buvom apsistoje Karaliskojo ezero stovykloje. Tai nustabi vietele, kur mes vakare zvejojome, bet taip ir nesugavome nei vienos zuvies (kol kas!). Jaukui naudojome austres, kuriu prisiskaibeme nuo tilto. Po to as pagalvojau, kodel neissitusinus tu austriu patiems, juk ju pilnas papludimys, o su tom zuvim nezinosi kada ju galima prisigaudyti. Tad vakar prisirinkome ir issitusinome su sviestuku ir cesnaku ir jos buvo be galo skanios, tokios kaip restorane galima nusipirkti uz koki 70 litu.
Tad si ryta atsikele pirmiausia issiruoseme tu austriu prisiskaibyti. As jas rinkau, Andis plove ir vale ir galim pasigirti, kad saltytuve turim apie 1 kg svieziu austriu, kurias garinsime pietums ir vakarienei uz mums jos nieko nekainavo! Na nebent mano suraizytas rankas ir nagus, nes jos tvirtai isikibusios auga taip mazu kriaukliu skeveeldru, kurios yra labai astrios. Tad kita karta muvesiu pirstines, o dabar - skanaus! Jei galeciau ir su jumis situo geriu pasidalyciau!
Andzio petys buvo rentgenuotas ir ultragarsuotas ir gydytoja patvirtino, kad jokiu suzeidimu nera, niekas neissukta, niekas neluze, tad esame siomis ziniomis labai patenkinti.
Hello everyone,
I hope you are doing well and are getting exited about coming Christmas time. Here it is kind of weird to be talking about Christmas when it is spring here and sun is hot, beaches all around.
Anyway... We stopped in Sydney at the area called Rose Bay. I like it here as it is a beautiful area, there is a direct 10 min ferry to the city centre, the neighbourhood is chilled out and we can park here for free. These things start to matter when you have a camper van! We cook our food and make sandwiches for lunch which makes it fun and cuts costs down. So today on our menu - 1 egg sandwich and 1 peanut butter and jam sandwich and an apple for Renata. No apple for Andy as he is allergic to it.
Tonight we are going to stay over at our friend's Darius' place. Darius is a great guy as being Lithuanian he only saw us one and welcomed into his home. This evening is planned for a drinks night our with our friends Fran and Michael who now live in Sydney. Dubstep night with friends is always fun!
We found a library where wireless internet is free, so Andy is planning to spend a whole day here browsing and writing a few articles. And I am planning to go to modern art museum, shops, basically explore the city on my own until the evening comes.
We might have to stay in Sydney for longer then planned as I need to apply for Fiji and potentially Argentinian visas here.
So... more to come!
Hugs <>
Renata & Andy
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Labukas,
Na norejosi tiesiog zinute bruksteleti, kad esam sveiki gyvi, Sydnejuje jau trecia diena. Valgyti verdames autobusiuke, ryziu sriubas mintame, tepames sumustinius su uogienemis. Zodziu - faina. Siandien pietu meniu - man obuolys (Andis obuoliams yra alergiskas), 1 sumustinis su kiausiniu ir majonezu ir 1 sumustinis su braskiu uogiene ir riesutu sviestu bei butelys vandens uzsigerti.
Sustojome centre, ilankoje kuri vadinama yra roziu ilanka (Rose Bay). Cia radome kur nemokamai musu sraige automobili galima pasistatyti ir sedime. Kelta pasiimame ir po 10 min esame paciame centre.
Siandien vakare apsinakvosime pas Dariu, geraji vieno vakaro pazistama, kuris mus priglaus ir duos dusu pasinaudoti;-) O vakare, 8 val, esame susitare susimatyti su 2 pazistamais is Anglijos, kurie dabar Sydnejuje gyvena.
Pas mus dabar rytas, as planuoju parasiusi si dienorasti eiti i miesto centra, o Andi paliksiu dirbanti, rasanti straipsnius ir susitiksime su juo vakare pries kelione pas gerieti Dariu.
Sydnejuje dar teks neplanuotai pabuti kelias dienas, nes man reikia cia prasyti Fidzi vizos ir Argentinos vizos gali reikti, tad jos prasyma cia irgi reikia palikti.
Sauleti buckiai is pavasarejancios Australijos, kur yra rengiamasi Kaledoms!
Apkabinimukai <>
Renata ir Andis
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/TheGreatOceanRoadDidysisVandenynoKelias#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/TravelsOnTheEastCoastInTheCamperVan#
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/MelbourneNov
Hey there,
How are you doing? Drop us a line on the wall or an email as it would be lovely to hear from you.
This mornign we woke up at our friend's Darius' apartment. Darius is a very trusting host as he just gave us keys and left us in his home. We made some breakfast, had long nice shower and gone to town. I personally was extremelly worried that our camper van's battery will go flat as we do not drive it much these days and the fridge is on all the time. So we come back, drove to Watson's Bay and back, then had some lunch and ventured to the library where internet is free.
We just had a short break between interneting and had a nice swim as there is a beach just a minute away from the library. A nice and cosy beach. The water was refreshingly cold.
Tongiht we are planning to go to the China town to browse and get some tasty chinese food (oh my God, I miss Asia!).
We are slowly enjoying Sydney as our stay is extended due to my visa(s). We will only leave when documents for Fiji and / or Argentinian visa will be submitted and I still have not receive a satisfactory answer from Argentinian embassy if I need an advance visa or not. So... we are still waiting.
On Tuesday we plan to take a short 2 day trip with our friend Fran in our camper van to the Blue Mountains. It should be stunningly beautiful and our australian friend Tessa recommended that we pay a visit there.
That is it for today. Take care and we are looking forwards to hearing from you!
Hugs <>
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Sveikuciai,
Na, kaip Jus gyvenate? Parasykit zinute ant sienos ar elektronini laiska, nes smagu butu paskaityti kas ir kaip pas Jus einasi.
Siandien penktadienis, tiesa pasakius pas mus jau vakareja tas penktadienis. Siuo metu beveik 18 val ir mes esame bibliotekoje, kuria uztikome, nes internetas cia nieko nekainuoja. Mes ka tik issimaudeme juroje. Vanduo pakankamai saltas. Bet gera, taip gaivu, nes diena buvo karstoka.
Taigi, ka siandien neveikeme? Ogi nieko per daug. Atsikeleme pas Dariu butelyje. Darius pats isejo i darba mums taip geranoriskai patikejes buta ir jo raktus. Pavalgeme pusrycius ir isejome autobusiuko patikrinti, nes kartais baiminames kad akumuliatorius issikraus, kadangi dabar stovime vietoje ir nevazinejame, o saldytuvas visa laika yra ijungtas. Autobusiukas uzsikure, tad palekeme siek tiek iki kito papludymio, pasiziurejome kas ir kaip ten ir tada atidumeme i Roziu ilanka, nes cia mums be galo patinka. Uzkandome ir islekeme i biblioteka ir i papludimi. Si vakara planuojame eiti i kinu kvartala, nes ten gal ka skanaus ir pigaus nutversime vakarienei.
Tai vat tokios tokeles pas mus. Vis dar negavau patenkinamo atsakymo is Argentinos ambasados del vizos, nors man atrodo kad man jos nereikia, bet jie man kol kas neatsake aiskiai, tad as laukiu patikslinimo. Sydnejuje busim tol, kol dokumentu Fidzi ir Argentinos vizai nepriduosime.
Antradieni planuojame porai dienu isvaziuoti i Melynuosius kalnus, kurie yra i pietus nuo Sydnejaus (apie 122km). Pasiimsime draugyte Fran ir tryse dumsime pasigrozeti tais kalnais, kas turetu buti verta tokio iskilmingo vizito.
Siam kartui tiek, iki kito!
Sia eilute rasau 14.22 Australijos laiku ir suprantu, kad kaip tik siuo metu miegate. Mes vel (VEL!!!) sedime bibliotekoje, nes tai atrodo geriausias (ir pigiausias) laiko leidimas vidury karstos dienos.
Vakar vakare buvom iseje i kinu kvartala pasibludineti ir vakarienes nusigriebti pigios vakarienes. Ir mums pasiseke. Uztikome pupos dydzio japoniska restoraneli, pavadinimu KURA. Ju Sydnejuje yra bene trys. Zmones lauke stovejo eileje kol gales ismukti ir pavakarieniauti tokioje zavioje vieteleje. Tame pupos dydzio restoranelyje yra gal koki 10-12 vietu ir maza virtuvele. Tad nerealiai jauku ir be galo skanus japoniskas maistelis: sushi, udon sriubos, okonomiyaki (storas blynas su darzovemis ir ryziais), donburi (patiekalas su japoniskais ryziais). Tad issirinkti ka nors skanaus problemu nebuvo. Prikimse pilvelius udon makaronu ir skaniausiu vistienos gabaliuku letai pedinome namo, pas Dariu, kuris musu kantriai lauke su australisku alumi ir kinu desertiniais pyrageliais! Niam!
Siandien ypatingu planu neturime, tik kai saule atves gal nulinguosime iki papludymio, ten knygas skaitysime, zodziu, be skubos, jaukiai ir ramiai. Dabar kai radome viesus dusus prie papludymio tai jaudintis nereikia. Yra vandens, tai geras gyvenimas. Australija palyginti su Azija yra be galo svari. Kas ne keista, bet australai yra dar ir siaip labai atsipalaidave, bent jau toks pirmas ispudis susidaro.
Ju nepaliete paskutine ekonomikos krize, valiuta isliko stipri, nera akivaizdaus darbu trukumo, gana aukstas minimalus atlyginimas. Visa tai bedestant man gaila darosi, kad legaliai dirbti negaliu, nes mano turistine viza, o darbo viza gauti yra be galo sunku lietuviams, nes reikia kad turetum isskirtinius igudzius ir neatimtum darbu is australu. Australai perdetai jaudinasi del didejancios populiacijos ir imigracijos. O mes manome, kad jie turetu labiau jaudintis didele ikyriu musiu populiacija, nes tie skraidantys organizmai yra neregetai atkaklus. Jos skrenda i akis, burna, tupi ant nugaros. Ju neimanoma nubaidyti ir jos yra visur!
Vat tokios tokeles.
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When I am writing this line it is 14.37 in the afternoon and we are in the Double Bay library hiding from the hot late spring Australian sun. This proves to be a healthy and cheap way to spend time and enjoy connecting with the world back at home.
Last night we ventured to Sydney China town which could be called oriental town really as there were lots of Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean restaurants as well as Chinese restaurants. We ended up in eating in a pea size Japanese place, called KURA. Apparently there are 3 KURA restaurants in the city and all of them are great and produce delicious food. People were queuing outside. We got our number as well (48 I think) and waited until there were 2 spaces for us.
The menu was simple but big in Japanese terms: sushi, udon, okonomiyaki (like a pancake with vegetables and rice), donburi (a meal with rice), tempura and others. After a lovely dinner we slowly walked back home, to catch up with Darius who patiently waited for us in his flat with Australian beers.
It seems that Australia was not touched by the economical crisis, so there are a lot people eating out, businesses are blooming, there is no obvious shortage of jobs, minimal wage is quite high, the currency is strong, so Australians are happy and relaxed. A little bit too worried about the increase of their population but Andy & I think that they better should worry about the enormous population of annoyingly aggressive flies which fly into people's eyes, mouth and they enjoy sitting on our backs at any given opportunity!
We are staying at a little seaside town called 'The Entrance', a few hours north of Sydney. Our fishing activity had a bit of a hiatus after we crossed the border to New South Wales on the way to Sydney and we only bought NSW fishing permits the other day.
Since then we have been fishing in this lovely little town, which has a saltwater lake AND a beach. We have been fishing in the lake using 'softies' (soft plastic lures) as well as prawns. I favour the more enegertic fishing involved with using the lures, whereas Renata prefers sitting back and waiting for a bite. We have yet to land our first fish, however, so it's hard to say which method is more effective at this stage ;-)
We were, however, the recipients of more fishermans' generosity yesterday in the form of 4 (FOUR!) large flathead, which are now scaled, gutted and sitting in the fridge ready to be cooked for lunch. Technically speaking, the rod has already paid for itself in fish, albeit not ones we have caught ourselves. I suspect that it may be a more efficient approach for us to play on the sympathies of kindly fishermen than to expend time and energy actually fishing... something the pelicans here worked out some time ago.
The Entrance is a charming little town (photos to follow). There is a great free outdoor swimming baths next to the ocean (with free showers too!), lots of quaint little shops and a flock of resident pelicans that get fed by the townspeople every day at precisely 3.30pm.
We liked the town so much we decided to stay a couple of extra days to get some more fishing practice in and to attend the Mardi Gras festival today and a carol concert tomorrow.
We hope everyone back home is doing well and getting into the festive spirit. It's very hard to feel festive here when it is mostly hot and sunny.
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Mes jau antra diena kaip esam apsistoje miestelyje pora valandu kelio i siaure nuo Sydnejaus ir cia ketiname praleisti savaitgali. Miestukas zavus turi daug mazu parduotuvyciu, kino teatrair kas zaviausia tai geografine padetis, nes jis yra tarp suraus vandens ezero ir vandenyno.
Mes pasistateme autobusiuka priesais ezera, tad kas ryta pabundame su zaviu vaizdu ir prie pat musu rytais ir vakarais prieina buriai zevjy, kuria cia zvejoja ploksciagalves zuvis.
SIame miestuke kasdiena, lygiai 3.30 po pietu vyskta pelikanu maitinimo ceremonija, tad jie net aktyviai nebezvejoja, nes zino, kad zmones i juos metys zuvis ir jiems beliks tik jas sugauti.
Siandien (sestadieni) cia vyks Mardi Gras sventimas (seksualiniu mazumu svente). Si svente yra be galo populiari Australijoje, tad mes nekantraujame pamatyti kas ir kaip cia yra svenciama.
Nuo to kaip isvaziavome is Sydnejaus pries kelais dienas zvejojame kasdien po kelias valandas. Negaliu sakyti, kad ismokome, nes kol kas dar nei vienos zuvies nepagavome, taciau musu pastangos nenueina veltui, nes kas kelios dienos vis atsiranda zvejys, kuriam pagailsta musu ruskanu veidu ir kol kas bergzdziu pastangu, tad mums duoda po kelias zuvis. vat kad ir vakar. Vienas sekmingas zvejys mums atidave 4 didokas zuvis, tad mums tai bus bent kelios vakarienes;-)
Andis megsta zevejoti su gumine salotu spalvos zuvimi, kuria reikia vilkti per dugna, o man patinka gyvas jaukas, pavyzdziui kalmarai arba krevetes, nes imeti meskere ir tada gali sedeti koki pusvalandi ir laukti kol kas uzkibs.
Sunku pajusti Kaledu dvasia cionajos, nes yra silta ir Australijoje ka tik prasidejo vasara, tad mes gal nepajusime tu Kaledu, nes jos kazkaip man neasocijuojasi su smeliu ir barbekiu papludimyje, taciau kas ten zino, gal tokios Kaledos bus pacios smagiausios?
More photos of our journey up the east coast can be found here / Musu keliones autobusiuku nuotraukos yra cia:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/TravelsOnTheEastCoastInTheCamperVan#
Also photos of Sydney here / Nuotraukos is Sydnejaus yra cia:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/Sydney#
Just a short message to let everyone know that we are heading towards Brisbane and just arrived to Byron Bay early this afternoon! We plan to stay here for a week or so as it is Andy's dreamland;-) Byron Bay is quite a sureal place as it seems that no one gets old here. Only young people in the streets. A forever yougnland it is!
We drove more then 3000 miles already past farms, beach towns, oyster farms (yummy river oysters!), best pies in Australia (Fredo Pies), lakes, rivers, ocean... Saw so many places, slept facing the South Pacific Ocean last night. So all is good. We are healthy and well. I (Renata) noticed that I am getting tanned too quickly, so now I am hiding in long sleeved tops and long trousers otherwise I might get skin cancer!
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Trumpa zinute pranesanti, kad mes lekiam Brisbane link ir per pietus siandien atvaziavome i Byron Bay. Svajinga, triuksminga pajurio miesteli, kur visi atlekia surfinguoti. Cia tik treciadienis, o visas miestelis bruzda. Jaukus, grazus ir pilnas tik jaunu zmoniu. Atrodo, kad cia niekas nesensta. Andis cia nori pasilikti apie savaite, nes apie sia vieta svajojo 10metu!
Esame sveiki, gyvi, grazus, jauni. Ko gi mums daugia bereikia? Mes jau pravaziavome virs 3000km per Australija ir negaliu pasakyti kad esame pusiaukeleje! Vairuoti yra be galo smagu ir salis yra didele. Vaziavome pro ezerus, upes, vandenyna, juras, kaimus. Sianakt miegojome priesais vandenyna, i ji ziuredami.
As pastebejau, kad per greitai idegu, nors ir nesideginu, bet cia saule yra be galo arsi, tad nuo jos dabar slepiuosi po ilgarankovemis maikutemis ir kelnemis, nes kitaip gausiu odos vezi!
"When one is minority, it's always pleasant, if not surprising, to be in an environment where one's practises are rule rather than the exception" (Jonathan Ames "Wake up, Sir!")
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"Kai vienas yra mazuma, visada yra malonu, ar net kartais nustebina buti aplinkoje kur vieno iprociai yra taisykle, o ne isimtis" (Jonathan Ames "Pabuskite, pone!").
This morning we were woken up rudely by an angry man at 6 am shouting and hitting the side of our camper van. He did not bother to introduce himself or the organization he represents but stated that we should move immediately as "camping" is not allowed in Byron Bay. Apparently emptying sink might cost us 750 AUD and so so on!..
We were so confused that the best we did was just apologize and move to another place to "rest" ;-) But now the more we think the more we wish bad Carma to that person as his attitude was incredibly and unnecesasry rude towards us.
Now we are in a small library in South Brisbane and we plan to catch up with Tessa (girl we met during our travels in China) this evening.
We miss you all! Hugs <>
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Si ryta mus pazadino baladojimasis i musu autobusiuko duris ir piktas, besiputojantis 50-mecio vyriskio balsas. Andis atidare duris ir ten stovi toks vyriskis su kazkokia uniforma. Nepristates organizacijos, kuriai jis atstovauja ir pats pamirses prisistatyti jis eme ant musu rekti, pabrezdamas, kad miegoti autobusiuke siame mieste draudziama ir kad naudoti praustuva, esanti musu automobilyje taip pat draudzuiama, uz tai yra skiriamos 750 Australijos doreliu baudos ir kad mes turim tuctuojau nesdintis is cia.
Mes mieguisti ir issigande kaip kiskeliai sprukome i kita miega, "pasiilseti". Tiesa yra ta, kad tame mieste yra simtai autobusiuku ir automobiliu su juose mieganciais zmonemis, nes ne kiekvienas gali leisti sau moteli. Taciau velniu kliuvo mums. Dabar geriau pagalvojus as manau, kad neprisitatelis pats galejo buti musu apsauktas ir dar yra gera tema diskusijai ar mes miegojome visa nakti ar tik nusnaudeme. Zodziu tokios keliaujant linksmybes kartais buna;-) Pasaka, kaip Darius sako!
Mes siandien atvaziavome i Brisbane didmiesti ir cia ketiname pasibuti gal pora dienu. Si vaakra susitiksime su miergina, vardu Tessa, su kuria susipazinome keliones po Kinija metu. Pas ja gal ir apsistosime porai dienu ir su ja kartu laika leisime.
Labai Jusu visu pasiigome! Apkabinimai <>
Just a short one...
Hello everyone!
This mornign we are at the State Library of Queensland in Brisbane enjoying culture, coffee and free internet access;-)
We are staying with lovely Tessa who just moved into her cute as she calls "granny's" apartment.
We are not sure for how long we will stay in brisbane but probably we will move on in a few days.
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trumpas laiskelis...
Labas rytas visiemus!
Siryt mes esame centrineje Queensland'o bibliotekoje Brisbane kur megaujames kultura, kava ir nemokamu internetu:-)
Esam apsistoje nuostabiosios Tesos namelyje, kuri ji vadina "mociutes apartamentais".
Nesame isitikine kiek ilgai cia busime, bet turbut isjudesime i siaure po keliu dienu.
This morning started with high bouncy jumps on a massive inflatable pillow (wow!!!) at the caravan park (Big4) where we stayed over night. Oh my God they have some funky facilities! A swimming pool, a tennis court, mini golf, table tennis, inflatable pillow and others we did not discover yet!
We just booked a 3 day and 2 night sailing trip for the New Year and my birthday. We are due to leave on 31st of December by 16.7 meters boat called "Summertime". It carries 3 crew members and 16 guests. I cannot wait for the adventure as the trip will combine sea kayaking, sailing, snorkeling and scuba diving! Lush! That is a treat for us.
Now we have to keep our fingers crossed that the weather will be good with no storms and that kind of adventures.
Today we will head to Cloncurry what will take 12 hours and 1000 kilometers and we assume it will take us 2.5 days to complete the mission! Lots of driving that is! Currently we assume we will spend Christmas at Cloncurry.
Just in a case if we won't have time or opportunity to get to Internet we wish you a very Merry Christmas. Enjoy time with families and friends, appreciate what is around you, what is already achieve, the years lived and enjoy the time and moments of being amongst the ones you love and the ability to share your everything with them. Have a very Merry Christmas!
Renata & Andy
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Siandiena praseidejo dideliais spyruokliniais suoliais ant milziniskos pripuciamos pagalves (bus foto) turistu parke, kur buvome apsistoje nakciai. Tie parkai yra neitiketini ir pilni uzsiemimu. Big4 parke yra baseinas, teniso kortai, mini golfas, stalo tenisas, milziniska pripuciama pagalve, viesa virtuve, dusai ir kitka, ko dar neatradome;-)
Mes ka tik uzsakeme 3 dienu ir 2 naktu kelione burlaiviu per Naujuosius ir mano gimtadieni. Isvykstame 31 gruodzio 16.7 metru ilgio valtimi "Summertime" (liet. vasaros laikas). Toje valtyje bus viso 19 zmoniu: 3 igulos nariai ir 16 sveciu. Kelione sutalpins juros kajakus, nardyma, buriavima ir snorkeling (kaip lietuviskai si sporta pavadinti net nezinau). Viskas turetu buti be galo saunu, nes bus be galo daug maisto, desertu, zodziu tai bus musu keliones virsune! Be galo laukiu ir dziaugiuosi tokia pasakiska kelione! Dabar reikia tiketis tik kad oras nepabloges, nebus vetru ir kelione nebus atsaukta;-)
Siandien mes pajudesime i Cloncurry miestuka, kas uztruks apie 2.5 dienos, 12 valandu vairavimo (be pertraukos) ir bus nuvaziuota virs 1000 kilometru.
Tuo atveju jei nebeprieisime prie interneto iki svenciu noretume visiems palinketi smagiu Sv Kaledu, daug klegesio, ivertinti tai, ka turime, pasidziaugti zmonemis, kurie mus supa ir padekoti uz viska, kas yra aplinkui, kas nuveikta, pasiekta, isgyventa. Linksmu Sv Kaledu!
Renata ir Andy
We set off yesterday morning on what was supposed to be a simple 1200km ride west into the desert to go to the Walkabout Creek Hotel, where they filmed the bar scenes in 'Crocodile Dundee'. However, in a place called Julia Creek, about 200km from our intended destination, we got talking to the proprietors of another bar and they told us that the Walkabout Creek Hotel was rubbish and we shouldn't bother. They recommended we head up to the Gulf Coast, to a place called Karumba, where they have great sunsets. We have a few days before our sailing trip so we decided to go for it.
Karumba is about 600km north of Julia Creek and the fastest way there was to travel on the so-called 'developmental road'. We assumed these developmental roads were all dirt tracks (which our campervan is not suitable for). Actually, the road was all sealed tarmac and pretty good quality - just a bit narrow in places.
We had to be careful to ensure we had enough petrol, as we had to travel around 250km between each fuel stop. In the first 250km, we encountered just 2 other vehicles, so we were glad we didn't break down. The developmental roads are much better for spotting wildlife; we felt like we were on safari! So far today we have seen: cattle, wild camels, wild emus, numerous birds of prey, thousands of giant locusts (many of which are still lodged in our engine grill or splattered across our windscreen), kangaroos (just dead ones, sadly) and some strange and as yet unidentified wild birds that are very big but not as big as emus. We haven't seen any wild crocs yet, but there are plenty up at Karumba, so we will keep a look-out for them.
In Karumba, we can apparently eat local mud crabs and get very good fresh seafood. We can also go fishing, but we should do that in a charter boat as fishing from the shore or riverbank is exceedingly dangerous due to the afforementioned crocodiles. When fishing from the riverbank, you have to change location every 15minutes so the crocs can't work out where you are and sneak up on you.
Aside from crocodiles and dying of dehydration after breaking down on a developmental road, our biggest danger up here is, apparently, being caught in a flood and unable to leave the area until the water levels subside. It's baking hot and sunny today, but we have been warned to leave immediately if there is more than 3inches of rainfall, or we could be trapped here for a few weeks.
The road trip is fantastic and driving for thousands of kilometres on almost exclusively straight roads is actually a lot more fun than it sounds, as the scenery changes a lot. The little frontier towns out here in the wilderness are very amusing also... often just one shop, a couple of houses and pub.
We wish you all a merry xmas and if you don't hear from us for 2 weeks, please assume we are trapped in Karumba by floodwaters.
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kelione mes pradejome vakar ryte, kas turėjo būti paprasta 1200km atkarpa: vaiuoti į vakarus, į dykumą, aplankyti Walkabout Creek Hotel, kur nufilmavo juostą "Krokodilas Dandi".
Tačiau Julia Creek mieste, apytiksliai 200km iki musu galutinio tasko, mes pasikalbėjome su vietinio baro savininkais, ir jie mums patarė, kad Walkabout Creek Hotel nera verta lankymo vieta. Jis rekomendavo mums vaziuoti i vieta, vadinamą Karumba, kur yra nuostabus saulėlydiai, juros gerybes ir siaip idomus kelias. Turime keletą dienų prieš savo burlaivio kelionę todėl mes nusprendėme patarimu pasinaudoti.
Karumba yra apie 600km į šiaurę nuo Julia Creek ir greičiausias būdas buvo keliauti į ta miestuka "vystymuoju keliu". Mes itariame, kad tai purvo trasos (kuri mūsų campervan netinka). Tiesą sakant, visas kelias buvo isasfaltuotas ir labai geros kokybės - tiesiog šiek tiek siaurokas vietomis ir banguotas reljiefas.
Mes turėjome būti atsargūs, kad turėtume pakankamai benzino, tad reikia kura pasipildyti kiekviena karta kai tik yra galimybe. Visų pirma pravaziave apie 250km, mes aptikome tik 2 kitas transporto priemones. Vystymosi keliai yra gausus augalijosir gyvūnijos; mes jautėmės kaip Safari!
Kiek šiandien matėme: galvijai, laukiniai kupranugariai, laukiniai emus, daug plėšriųjų paukščių, tūkstančius skeriu (iš kurių dauguma vis dar yra tarp mūsų mašinų groteliu ar istyske ant mūsų priekinio stiklo), kengūrų (tik mirę, deja) ir kai keistai ir kol kas nenustatytos laukiniai paukščiai, kurie yra labai dideli, pilki, panasus i gandrus tik su trumpesniu snapu ir raudona galvyte. Mes ne kartą nemateme laukiniu krokodilu.
Karumboje, galime valgyti vietinius purvo Krabus ir gauti švieiu jūros gėrybiu. Mes taip pat galime eiti vejoti, bet mes turime daryti is val;ties, o ne nuo kranto, nes nuo kranto tai yra nepaprastai pavojinga, nes krokodilai to tik ir telaukia. vejojant nuo kranto, turite pakeisti vietą kas 15minutes tai krokodilai issiaiskins, kur esate, ir prisėlins bei taikysis mus suesti!
Beja, krokodilai miršta nuo dehidracijos. Mūsų didiausias pavojus čia yra, nes jei sugaus potvyniai tai negalesime palikti šio rajono, kol vandens lygis nuses. Tai kepino siandien saule karštai, bet mus jau perspėjo, kai išvykome, kad jei vandens palis daugiau nei 12 cm per nakti, tai mes turime vaziuoti is miestelio, nes kitaip ji apsems ir mes tame miestelyje turesime buti kelias savaites.
Si kelione yra fantastiska. Vairuojame tūkstančius kilometrų, tiesūs keliai yra daug daug idomesni nei gali atrodyti, nes gamta yra besikeicianti ir ispudinga. Mai pasienio miesteliai dykumoje yra labai juokingi ... danai tik viena parduotuvė, namad ir pora skelbimo lentu.
Mes linkime Jums linksmų Kalėdų ir jei neišgirste iš mūsų per 2 savaites, prašome gelbeti mus is spąstu Karumbos potvyniuose.
We spent the Boxing day with Jeff and Corinne in Cairnes. Jeff was the man who invited us to their house late Christmas day when we met the couple at the Hot Springs town a few days earlier and we made it on 26th! The lovely couple kindly offered us to stay at theirs, so we started the day at 8am with quite a few drinks, then very late bbq meal in the evening. We slept in air conditioned room and had even 2 showers what is a luxury for us these days!
Now we are on our way down south to Aerlie Beach for 30th of December.
We had a great time, so thank you so much, Jeff and Corinne! You are great! Hopefully we will keep in touch, guys. So if you ever come back to England or decide to visit Lithuania we will show you around!
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Antra Kaledu diena praleidome nepazistamuju, o tiksliau pasakius, dabar pazistamuju namuose. Kai buvome karstuju versmiu miestelyje pries keleta dienu, susipazinome su pagyvenusia porele is Cairnes - Dzefu ir Koraine. Dzefas pakviete mus pas juos uzsukti Kaledu vakara. Isejo taip, kad mes su jais prasilenkeme pirma Kaledu diena, bet antra pradejome svesti su jais nuo 8 val ryto su gerimeliais ir skaniais maistais. Pora pasiule mums pas juos apsistoti, tad sventeme ilgokai ir gausiai. Kambarys su minksta lova, oro kondicienieriumi - tai mums prabanga siomis dienomis, tad pasiulytais malonumais be jokios abejones ir pasinaudojome.
Siandien ryte po gausiu pusryciu ir issidusinimu mes isjudejome i pietus is Cairnes. Aerlie beach turime buti 30-ta diena, tad yra kelios dienos tiems trumpiems 800km iveikti!
Hi all,
More photos can be found added to our 'travels in the campervan' section on picassa:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/TravelsOnTheEastCoastInTheCamperVan#
Sorry it's taken a while... Internet connectivity in Australia is invariably terrible - slow, expensive or both!
And who could have thought that we could even speed with our little Sheila, camper van? Well, it seems we did the impossible;-) Andy's dad recently emailed us a scan of a speeding ticket us we drove 64-67 km/h in a 60km/h area... It seems Australians are quite tight on light speeding issues...
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Ir kas galejo pagalvoti, kad musu mazoji Shyla, autobusiukas, yra tikroji greicio masina? Ogi pries kelias dienas Andzio tetis atsiunte mums baudos kvita. Pasirodo mes vaziavome per greitai! 64-67km/val vietoje 60km/val.... Ui, tie australai! ;-)
A very Happy New Year to you! Lots of festivities, good mood, New Year resolutions and acknowledgement of all the achievements in 2009!
Tomorrow we are off for our 3 day Whitsunday island sailing trip, so we will be back in touch no earlier then 2nd of January, so mums, please do not worry!
Just to make very jealous people even more jealous we decided to publish our sailing trip menu for your attention (see below).
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Su Naujaisiais sveikiname Jus! Daug sventimo, surmulio ir 2009-tuju pasiekimu ivertinimo Jums linkime.
Mes rytoj isplauksime i 3 dienu kelione jachta i Whitsundays salas, tad grisime tik 2 sausio po pietu. Tad miela mama, nesijaudink jei iki tol is manes nieko negirdesi!
O tiems, kas jau pavydi juodais ir baltais pavydais mes nusprendeme i bloga patalpinti musu 3 dienu jachtos meniu (angliskai).
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Day 1 (31st Dec)
Morning Tea: Tea & Cofee with an assortment of cakes.
Lunch: An assortment of fresh breads, meats, salads, fruits and condomints for you to make your own creation.
Afternoon tea: Tea and Coffee served with lamingtons (A traditional Australia Sweet), soft vanilla sponge cake coated in a light chocolate topping then sprinkled with shaved coconut.
Sunset Snacks: A selection of oven baked snacks and dipping sauces.
Dinner: Tender chicken thigh fillets, marinated in succulent honey mustard and mixed herbs, served with a fresh cherry tomato, fetta cheese, green olives stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes and spanish onion salad. Fresh green beans steamed and lightly tossed through garlic butter with oven roasted potatoes seasoned with fresh herbs and cracked pepper. Warm herb and Parmeson bread.
Dessert: Chocolate cake with a rich topping covered in creamy custard.
Day 2 (1st Jan)
Breakfast:
A fresh tropical fruit salad, served with yoghurt. Warm raisin toast, fruit loaf, white and wholemeal bread. With a wide range of condomints, cereals and milk. Tea, coffee and juice.
Morning Tea: Tea and coffee served with assortment of cakes and biscuits.
Lunch: Thick soft focacia bread topped with grilled chicken, tabouli, sun dried tomatoes, avocado, onion and cheese lightly baked, served with a fresh caeser salad and a creamy tuna and asparugus pasta with a small platter of fresh fruit.
Afternoon Tea: Tea and coffee served with a chocolate and cream sponge roll. Sunset Snacks: A large platter with cheese, carrot and celery sticks, kabana, pickled onions, crackers, corn chips and a selection of dips.
Dinner: Tender scotch fillet steaks in a secret marinade. Served with a deliscious tomato, onion, garlic and mushroom pasta bake. Brocoli and cauliflower in a cheese sauce, served with a fresh garden salad and sun dried tomato pesto bread.
Dessert: Chocolate and caramel slice, made fresh on the boat from our own recipe.
Day 3 (2nd Jan)
Breakfast:
Crispy bacon, scrambled eggs, toast, cereals, juice, tea and coffee
Morning Tea: Tea and coffee served with fruit cake and biscuits.
Lunch: BBQ Sausages, coleslaw, creamy potato salad and a fresh green salad.
Hello everyone,
Renata is blogging today! yesterday we arived to Bundaberg - the fruit picking capital in Australia. It has been raining for a couple of days already which we are actually very happy about as it is too hot to sleep in our camper otherwise! It reminds me of sauna more then bedroom!
We slept near the beach last night, close to Mon Repos beach, where turtles come to lay their eggs this time of the year. We will try to see then doing so tonight if we are lucky!
Today we are planing to visit the famous Bundaberg rum distilery and smell, taste the produce there.
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Renata raso bloga siandien. Vakar mes atvaziavome i Bundaberg mieste, kuris yra vaisiu rinkimo sostine Australijoje. Cia visi keliautojai iesko sezoninio darbo. Jau kelinta diena kaip lyja Australijoje kuo mes dziagiames, nes autobusiuke kitaip yra be galo karsta, panasu i sauna.
Vakar nakti mes miegojome prie pat Mon Repos papludymio, i kuri siuo metu laiku atplaukia vezliai deti kiausiniu. Tikiuosi, kad sianakt mes ta procesa pamatysime!
Siandien planuojame aplankyti romo varykla, ten uostysime ir ragausime romo produkcija.
Renata reports that yesterday, 7th of Jan 2010 Renata and Andy visited Australia's zoo. After a few hours and over 80 Australian dollars spent on entry for 2 persons we declare that the experience was very satisfying as we got to stroke (and squeeze!!! gently....) a kangaroo and a koala! (All included into price!). And saw a joey in kangaroo's pouch!
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Renata raportuoja, kad vakar 7 sausio 2010 metais Renata ir Andy aplanke Australijos zoologijos soda. Po keliu ten praleistu valandu ir isleistu 80 Australijos doleriu mes deklaruojame, kad tai buvo vertinga patirtis. Mes nuglosteme ir numaigeme (svelniai) kengura ir koala! Ir mateme kenguriuka tupinti mamos kiseneje!
Tobjorn and Maire-Louise,
It was really great to get a message from you. We hope you are doing well. We would like to get in touch but do not have your email details, could you contact us?
Renata & Andy
Dear all,
We added some new ones to the main camper van journey album (check out the few last pages).
Mes papildeme keliones autobusiuku albuma (ziureti paskutinius kelis puslapius)
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/TravelsOnTheEastCoastInTheCamperVan#
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There are some photos from our sailing trip
Cia yra ir keletas nuotrauku is keliones valtimi
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/SailingOnSummertime#
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And a few ones from last weekend's trip with Tessa (our lovely Australian friend)
Ir keletas is praeito savaitgalio keliones su Tesa (musu draugyte australe)
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/TripWithTessaJan#
Just a short message to let you know that 3 days ago in Brisbane we were joined by a Lithuanian girl called Asta and now 3 of us are traveling down the coats to Sydney where we plan to be on 19th or 20th of January. Asta is a friend of Zivile (a girl we stayed with in Melbourne), so that's how we know her! She loves beaches, knows how to erect tents and is good fun to have around as she loves taking photos! (So more of them to come!)
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Tiesiog trumpa zinute, kad dabar keliaujame tryse, nbes pries 3 dienas Brisbane prie musu prisijunge lietuvaite, vardu Asta. Tad mes visi trys keliaujame i Sydneju. Asta yra gera Ziviles drauge (Ziviles, pas kuria buvome apsistoje Melburne). Asta yra be galo faina, linksma, megsta papludymius bei moka statyti palapines ir megsta fotografuoti. (Taigi ju bus dar daugiau!)
Hello everyone,
This is Renata speaking. I am sad to say that our trip in a camper van finished yesterday when we delivered the vehicle to the rental company. We drove 12 000km which is almost 8 000 miles in 2.5 months. The journey was fantastic. We were self sufficient and cooked for ourselves, enjoyed having the same bed for 2.5 months, sailed in Whitsundays, collected mussels and oysters, ate kangaroo and crocodile, saw loads of beautiful beaches. We did a few hikes in national parks, slept with an ocean view, were woken up by an angry ranger telling that we cannot camp in Byrom Bay ;-) Driving is easy in Australia not counting the bogans (a very macho chavy type of people) who just are annoying.
Now we and Asta are staying at our friend's Darius place until we leave and enjoy just relaxing and slowly taking Sydney in.
I collected my passport yesterday with an Argentinian visa in it. We are planing our Fiji trip now (if anyone has been to Fiji and has some advice it would be really appreicated, please post on our wall!) and getting prepared for New Zealand, meeting Andy's parents there and having a wild time with Mike when he visits us in Buenos Aires. So all is good, we are putting the second half of our journey together and enjoy traveling as a couple (still!).
We miss everyone as there is no place like home!
Hugs <>
Renata
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Sveiki,
Cia Renatukas kalba. Musu kelione autobusiuku oficialiai pasibaige vakar kai ji pridaveme nuomos kompanijai. Nuvaziavome is viso 12 000 kilometru per tuos 2.5 menesius. Kelione buvo smagi. Be galo pasiimgsime savo sraiges Sheillos. Patys gaminome maista, mokemes zvejoti, rinkome moliuskus ir austres, vogeme mangus (kartais ir nesekmingai), plaukiojome po Whitsundays salas per Naujuosius, ragavome kengurienos ir krokodilienos. Per tuos kelis menesius mes pramokome zvejoti (siek tiek), bet dar nei vienos zuvies nesugavome, bet uztat turime meskere! Susipazinome su idomiais zmonemis, kurie musu kelione paliko kupina prisiminimu. Is sios keliones pasiimsime daug geru ispudziu ir saules.
Vairuoti Australijoje yra labai paprasta (tik eismas vyksta kita puse nei Lietuvoje). Gatves gana placios ir zenklu pilna. Miestuose naviguoti yra sudetingiau jei nezinai kur ir kas, bet mes puikiausia issiverteme net be detalesniu zemelapiu.
Vakr pasiemiau pasa is Argentinos konsulato su Argentinos viza jame. Valio! Dabar planuojame kur keliausime kai busime Fidzi ir kur apsistosime, nes ten yra 333 salos! (Ne visos is ju yra gyvenamos, bet pasirinkimas yra sudetingas, nes visos jos kaip ant atviruko!).
Naujojoje Zelandijoje ketiname susitikti su Andzio tevais, kurie tenatostogaus ir lankys savo gimines, tad bus kaip ir seimos susitikimas. O kova Buenos Aires pas mus atskris Andzio draugas Maikas 3 savaitems, tad bus daug vakareliu. Dziaugiames keliaudami kartu (vis dar!), gera yra pasauli matyti taip, nors visko pamatyti, padaryti ir isuosti negali.
Be galo visu pasiilgome ir nera geresnes vietos nei namai.
Buckiai x x
Renatukas
We will start with misses as it is easier to criticize:-)
Misses
What is wrong in Australia? We thought to give this statement name to the blog but it would not be fair, so we will weight our opinions and make a list of good and bad things in this country. A few things are not as good as they could be (for us). We had no idea about a lot of the issues we will come across later and no one brought to our attention but we experienced them living in Australia for the last 3 months. A lot of the issues are not spelled aloud abroad and we were impleasantly surprised how deeply some of the issues are rooted.
-Speeding fines are exesive
-Everything is quite expensive (almost Bristish prices), especially coach trips
-No tachograph on truck driving results in high accident numbers
-Agresive males (and females) - sometimes being in Australia reminds wild wild west
-Bogan driving culture - agressive, sometimes folowing up with disrespectful hand signals
-General impolite and bad driving
-Architecture is far too simple and disapointing, especially the residential buildings in towns and villages
-Treatment of the indigenous natives - general racism
-Alcohol restrictions (no alcohol is sold in supermarkets in Queensland)
-Dangerous wildlife: cannot swim in the sea in Queensland in summer, lots of deadly mini spiders, snakes, crocodiles which can jump up quiote high and still get your legsif you are sat on the low bridge, sharks
-Bad beer
Hits
Australia for Andy was a country to go and be and live! For Renata Australia was a mystery country with lots of alien animals to see. As we drove on the Great Ocean road we were amazed how beautiful, varied and exotic the landscape is. In a week we saw lush forests and fields and dry deserty looking places, rockpools, cliffs.
-Helpful and kind people
-Afordable seafood and fish. Lots to choose from
-Interesting house interior choises
-Beaches are nice
-Lots of sunshine
-Public and well looked after BBQs are everywhere and they are free to use most of the time
-Camping and caravaning facilities are superb
-Comparitively cheap petrol
-UGG boots
-Cheap good wine
-Beautiful landscapes and good sky visibility (amazing clouds)
-Cool alien animals: emus, koalas, kangaroos, echidnas, wormbat, miniature penguins, Tasmanian Devils (giant rats basically)
Kas blogo yra Australijoje?
Kas blogo yra kenguru salyje? Taip pavadinsiu savo lietuviskaja blogo puse. Yra geru ir blogu dalyku, bet pradesiu nuo blogu, nes kritikiuoti visada yra lengviau. Kai kurie barbarizmainemaloniai nustebino, nes ju tiesiog nesitikejau civilizuotoje salyje. Turint omenyje, kad Australijoje vakaru kultura buvo iversta tik 200 metu atgal kai pirmieji baltaodziai atsikele i zemyna. Tris menesius pragyvene Australijoje gal;ime teigti, jog salis yra istabi, bet joje yra giliai isisaknijusiu problemu ir ji dar tik vejasi Vakaru Europa.
Taigi, kas tieji minusai?
-Prastas, beskonis alus
-Viskas gana brangu (beveik angliskos kainos), ypac keliones autobusu
-Sunkvezimiams negalioja jokie darbo-nedarbo matavimai, tad daug rimtu avariju keliuose
-Agresyvus vyrai (ir moteys palygintinai) - kartais primena laukiniu vakaru kultura
-Nera vairavimo kulturos, vairuotojai yra nemandagus, daznai priekabiauja ir nemotyvuotai karsciuojasi
-Nuvylianti gyvenamuju namu architektura - namai atrodo mediniai, apsiure, uzsislaptine nuo praeiviu akiu
-Diskriminacinis elgesys aborigenu (vietiniu gyventoju) atzvilgiu ir siaip pilieciai turi rasistiniu nuostatu
-Alkoholio apribojimai (kai kuriose valstijose jo neparduoda prekybos centruose, tik atskirose parduotuvese)
-Pavojingi gyvunai: mirtingos meduzos, tad siaures papludymiuose negalima vasara maudytis, krokodilai, rykliai, mirtingi mazi vorai ir t.t.
Pliusai...
-Malonus zmones
-Daug nebrangiu juros gerybiu ir zuvies
-Idomus namu interjeras
-Grazus papludymiai
-Daug sauletu dienu
-Viesi barbekiu, kurie dazniausiai buna nemokami, svarus
-Visi patogumai keliautojams su palapinemis, autopbusiukais ir masiniukais
-Palyginti nebrangus kuras
-UGG batai
-Nebrangus ir geras vynas
-Grazus peizazai ir platesnis nei iprata horizontas
-Super keisti ir idomus gyvunai: emiu (mazesnis strucio variantas), kenguros, wombat (didziule riebi juros kiaulyte) ir Tasmanijos velnias (didziule ir agresyvi juoda ziurke)
Hello everyone,
Men wear skirts in Fiji - that's true! We just arrived here last night and tomorrow we are off to smaller islands.
So more news to follow later...
Kisses xx
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Sveikuciai,
taip, vyrai Fidzi nesioja sijonus! tai tiesa. Mes vakar vakare atskridome i Fidzi ir rytoj plauksime i mazesnes salas.
daugiau naujienu po keletos dienu!
Buckiai xx
Hey everyone,
We've been in Fiji for a week already and so far we have been on the mainland in Nadi as well as to a couple of islands in the Yasawa chain. Our experiences have been mixed, but Fiji is undeniably a beautiful place.
First we stayed at Smugglers Cove beach resort in Nadi. It's a backpacker place where we stayed in a large mixed dorm with around 25 other backpackers. The dorm consisted of bunk beds and a shared bathroom and was pleasant enough. The hostel itself was full of mostly young people (students or recent graduates) drinking lots of beer and generally having fun. The resort caters for this crowd with such 'hilarious' activities such as limbo dancing and 'balloon sex'. What a hoot.
We headed out to the islands after one night and spent our first 3 nights (booked before we left) at a so-called 'Eco Tourism Resort', which was actually a fairly dire and run down hostel on a small island. Quite where the 'eco' came in, we're not sure... walking a few metres down the beach from the accommodation we found piles of glass and plastic bottles and other waste dumped in the undergrowth. Being at the resort felt like being trapped at a very beautiful prison camp. Meals were served at strict times only (8am for breakfast, 12pm for lunch, 7pm for dinner). There was no choice in the meals and we were provided school dinner fare which always consisted of carrots, beans, sweetcorn, a sweet & sour sauce and some kind of meat, prepared in a variety of different ways and portioned in a meagre way... we were always hungry :( Our dorm there was crowded and hot and I was bitten over 30 times on my back by bed bugs, which I would have been tempted to capture and eat for added sustenance if only they hadn't waited until I slept before feasting upon me. The dorms did have ceiling fans, but staff always cut electricity to the dorm once everyone was in bed, thus resulting in a hot and sweaty night of non-sleep.
We escaped after 3 nights and moved to the far more opulent 'Octopus' resort on an island around 1.5hrs further south. There we found we were treated like customers rather than inmates and enjoyed fantastic food, our own private 'bungalow' room and generally a much higher degree of comfort, albeit with a heftier price tag. Whilst at Octopus, we took a trip to a local village and school (most enjoyable) and went snorkelling in the coral reefs. There we got a real taste of the nicer side of Fiji. Great beaches, beautiful sunsets, smiley carefree people.
We're now back in Nadi and heading to Suva - the capital - tomorrow to check out how the city-dwelling Fijians are enjoying martial law.
Sveiki mielieji skaitytojai,
Na vat jau praejo 8 dienos Fidzi salose. Pirmaja diena praleidome Nadi (tarti Nandi) mieste, i kur atskridome lektuvu is Sydnejaus. Kelione praejo gerai, tada persigabedone i jaunimo namus ir apsistojome viesajame kambaryje su koki 32 zmonemis, kurie miega dviaukstese lovose. Kaip ir nieko, bet ilgai tokiose vietose buti nesinori, nes kai turi 30 kambarioku tai miegas yra ne koks ir iseina kad visa laika leisti reikia puotaujant. Taip ir padarem. Antra diena puotavome iki 3 val ryto, kelemes 6 val ir 7 val isvaziavome link uosto kur pasigavome kelta i Laviti sala.
Tai sala vulkaniniu salu grupeje. Apsistojome Korovou eco turo kurorte, kuris panasejo i stovykla, o ne kurorta. Valgymui yra paskirti laikai (jei paveluosi liksi kaip danti kandes) ir limituotos porcijos, darbuotojai ne itin draugiski, tad mes ten praleidome 3 naktis ir keltu pajudejome i Waya sala, Octopus (Astunkojo) kurorta. Tai buvo be galo zavi vietele, bet apie 3 kartus bangesne nei Kurovou, tad tai kaip ir suprantama. Ten praleidome pora naktu ir grizome i pagrindine sala Viti Levu, nes cia viskas pigiau, o papludymiai ir amzinas nieko neveikimas po kurio laiko nusibosta.
Kol kas Fidzi ispudziai yra idomus... Kai ketini aplankyti sia sali su 333 salomis (ar ent daugiau!) isivaizduoji balta smeli, zydzra vandeni, moteris sokancias su kokoso riesutais ant papuku vietoj liemenelio, kokteiliai papludymyje ir panasios pramogos.
Ka gi. Visa tai tiesa jei vyksti i prabangu ir brangu kurorta ir jame leidi 100% laiko, tacviau kai tik paeini toliau nuo kurorto visas zavesys pradeda issitrinti kaip Coraline filmuke, atsiranda ismetyti buteliai, siuskles, dingsta tas ispuoseleto kurorto jausmas... Kaimukai yra zavus, kur visi gyvena kaip viena didele seima. Ten vyksta viskas kaip ir Lietuvos kaimuose - apkalbos, seimos gyvenimai ir kivircia, vistos knisinejancios pakrumius, sunys, kates, zodziu - peizazas keiciasi, bet pagrindianiai bruozai yra panasus. Zmones cia niekur neskuba, visi atsipute, ramus ;-)
Reklamineje literaturoje vis rodomi tie balto smelio papludymiai, bet yra visokiu ir baltas mselis nera garantuotas, buna ir dumblo, kaip kad ir pirmajame kurorte Korovou, kuriame mes apsistojome. Visa salis gyvena is turizmo, kuris labai patraukliai pristatomas reklaminiuose lankstinukuose, bet gyvenimas kaimuose ir sostineje yra kitoks - judresnis, be smelio ir zaviu tradiciniu namuku, vadinamu BURE.
Sostine, tiesa sakant, atrodo gana nejaukiai, kylantys daugiaauksciai uzstoja vandenyna, daug patriususiu parduotuviu, parduodanciu pigia Kinijos produkcija. Sunku gauti autentisko Fidziietisko maisto, nors pilna kinisku ir indisku bei picos restoraneliu. Zmones cia yra atsipalaidave ir malonus, kas dziugina kasdienini buvima. Nors, pasak literaturiniu saltiniu vienai keliaujanciai moterikei gali susidaryti kitoks ispudis, nes gali buti ignoruojama, apciupineta ar apstumdoma.
Tad kai esu lydima Andzio man tai negresia, nes baisiausiu atveju manes tiesiog nematys ir su manimi nesnekes, o tai primena Nepala, kai as uzduodavau kalusimus, o Andziui klausiamasis atsakydavo;-)
Hello guys,
Here are the 2 links to an updated Sydney album and a new Fiji albums for you to enjoy!
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Sveiki,
Cia yra 2 nuorodos i papildyta Sydnejaus albuma ir i nauja Fidzi albuma Jusu demesiui.
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http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Sydney#
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Fiji#
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/NewZealand# - yesterday's photos / vakarykstes nuotraukos
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Rotorua02# - today's photos / siandienines nuotraukos
KIA ORA means hello and welcome in Maori language. Yesterday we had a full day of Maori culture and Maori experience evening. We started the day in Te Puia centre where we looked at the traditional Maori carvings and weaving and the big and hot Pohutu geyser.
In the evening we went to Mitai village for a cultural experience evening. It staretd with Hangi (a meal of meat and potatoes cooked in a pit) unveiling, then we went out for a WAKA observation (a hand carved war canoe, carved by Mitai family) going down the stream with warriors dressed in traditional dress. After the act a cultural performance followed (pohiri - welcome ceremony, karanga - women's call ceremony, haka - dance of strength, whai-koreo - welcome speeches, hongi (nose pressing act), dance, stick games, poi dance, weapons display, long poi, moko (tattoo explanation) and at last but not least Hangi meal.
After the meal we went for a guided bush walk to see some glow worms in their natural environment and got to see an eel in the pure water spring!
Yesterday's photos are here http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Rotorua02#
Tomorrow in the morning at 7am we are off to Wellington by coach. It should be a 9 hour journey and we plan to spend 2 night in Wellington before getting a ferry to South island.
Missing you all! Hugs
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KIA ORA Maoriu kalba reiskia Sveiki ir sveiki atvyke. Vakar diena buvo pilna ivykiu ir Maoriu kulturos. Diena pradejome Te Puia Maoriu menu ir kulturos institute kur mes apziurejome tradicinius drozinius ir mezginius bei didziule Pohutu versme-gyzeri.
Vakare vaziavome i Mitai kaima ziureti kulturinio spektaklio. Is pradziu mums buvo parodytas ruosiamas valgis - Hangi, t.y. ant karstu angliu ir akmenu po zeme keptas valgis (mesa: aviena ir vistiena bei vulves), po to ziurejome WAKA, kas yra tradicine kanoja, isdrozta Mitai kaimo gyventiju su tradiciniais apdarais apsiredziusiais kariais.
Po to seke tradicinis sou su pasveikinimo ceremonija (pohiri), karanga - moteru eile sveikinimams, haka - stiprybes ir istvermes bei karo sokis, whai-korero - kaimo vadu kalbos, hongi - pasisveikinimas nosimis, poi kamuoliuko sokis, zaidimai su lazdomis, parodomi senoviniai ginklai, moko (tatuiruociu) paaiskinimas. Visa tai buvo apvainikuota Hangi valgiu.
Pavalge kaip siurbelikes ejome i miska ziureti tamsoje zibanciu silkverpiu kirmineliu. Vakarykstes nuotraukos yra cia http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Rotorua02#
Rytoj 7val ryto mes autobusu isvaziuosime i Wellingtoná (9val kelione), kur apsistosime 2 naktims pries keltu persikeliant i pietine Naujosios Zelandijos sala.
Visu pasiilgome! Apkabinimukai
I have been carrying a menu copy from Hong Kong restaurant "Prince" for a while as I thought it would be an interesting item for you, guys, to read. So... enjoy!
Special Appetizers:
Pan-friend chicken with Honey Souce
Beef fillet in wasabi sauce
Sliced pumpkin with salty egg yolk\pan friend green pepper with black bean souce
Deep fried Bombay duck with spicy rock salt
Crispy Conpoy and enoki mushrooms & spicy rock salt
Crispy diced bean curd with spicy rock salt
Pomelo salad in thai style
Cold cut string bean with sesame souce
Deep fried dumpling served with sweet and sour sauce
Barbecued snacks
Barbecued eel with honey sauce
Barbecued pork brisket
Barbecued
pork neck glazed with honey sauce
Vegetarian abalone slices with crispy jelly fish
Marinade goose webs and wings
Marinade pig feet
Marinade duck peak
Cucumber and crispy jelly fish in vinegar sauce
Smoke bean curd with mushrooms and carrot & vegetables
Rice, noodles and congee:
Sliced garupa congee
Lobster congee
Fried rice wrapped in lotus leaf
Fried red yeast with conpoy and egg white
Braised angel hair with mushrooms and black triffle
Home made Dim Sum:
Jumbo shark's fin dumpling superior soup
Steamed crystal prawn dumpling
Braised goose webs with mushrooms
Deserts:
Baked egg in bird's nest
Pumpkin and chrysanthemum pudding
Coconut pudding with bird's nest
Sweet pumpkin puree
We have been quite busy today as Greg (my friend from Ordnance Survey) took us out for a drive to a Akaroa which is a beautiful little town with French named streets, great food and nice houses.
It is midnight here, Andy is asleep and I am keen to upload all our photos tonight and add comments before I forget where we have been and what we have done.
Wellington photos - http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Wellington#
Christchurch and surroundings - http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Christchurch#
Akaroa - http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/NewZealandAkaroa#
Tomorrow, Friday we are off hiking to Arthur's Pass for the whole day! Greg is enthusiastic about hiking, so we are going to do plenty of that.
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Siandien mes daug daug keliavome ir daug daug ka apziurejome. Apsistoje esame pas mano drauga ir buvusi bendradarbi, Grega. Jis yra be galo saunus, nes ne tik mus apnakvindino, bet ir mums pramogas ruposia, ko is jo tiketis tikrai negalejome. Esame veziojami, maitinami ir t.t.
Dabar yra vidunaktis. Andis yra sapnu karalysteje, o as nekantrauku visas nuotraukas sudeti i albumus ir patalpinti i interneta kol dar nepamirsau kur buvome ir ka dareme.
Siandien diena praleidome keliaudami i Akaroa, prancuziska miesteli, kuris yra be galo zavus ir atmosferiskas su ispudingomis pastelinemis spalvomis.
Wellington nuotraukos - http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Wellington#
Christchurch ir apylinkes - http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Christchurch#
Akaroa miestelis - http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/NewZealandAkaroa#
Rytojus mums zada kelione i Arthur's Pass, kur ketiname praleisti diena ir keblineti po kalnus gana ilgokai;-) Gregas yra be galo susidomejes geografas ir kalnu ozelis, tad mes grisime namo gerokai nusikale.
Today I headed off at 8.15am to climb the St Joseph Glacier. Renata went horse riding instead (she may blog about that separately).
After a short bus ride, we disembarked and started walking (approx 2.5km) to the foot of the glacier.
A glacier - for those of you who don't know - is essentially the end result of too much snow over a very long period of time. When snow falls high in the mountains and it doesn't get warm enough to melt all of it, more snow falls on top of it the following year. Over a long time, the new snow weighs heavily on the old snow and crushes it into pure ice. What doesn't melt slowly slides down the mountain due to gravity and melts faster at the bottom due to the lower temperatures, usually resulting in a stream of river.
We split into small groups and began to climb the ice-flow. Our guide would help us by hacking into the ice with a large pick-axe to carve out foot-holds or steps for us to climb. We also sported cramp-ons - basically spikes which attach to standard hiking boots and afford more traction on the ice.
The climb was fairly steep at times, but nothing too terrible. We occasionally encountered some strange formations in the ice; tunnels to crawl/slide through, or ridges which we needed to set up ropes in order to safely traverse. It got pretty cold up there... I was wearing 2 t-shirts, a fleece, waterproof trousers and a waterproof jacket as well as a hat and gloves. We spent around 6hrs on the ice in total.
Although the views were pretty great and the experience was pretty cool, I'm not in a rush to climb up another glacier. There's no wildlife up there and some of the ice is pretty muddy / dirty or covered in rocks. Definitely an interesting experience but not one I feel the need to repeat on a regular basis.
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/ClimbingAvalanchePeak# - climbing the Avalanche peak with Greg / Kopiame i Avalanche kalna su Gregu
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/FranzJosefAndMakarora# - Andy walking on glacier in Franz Josef and our stop at Makarora / Andis vaiksto ledynu ir musu trumpa stotele Makaroroje
We just started this album so more photos to come. Today's photos / mes ka tik pradejome si albuma, tad bus daugiau nuotrauku su laiku. Cia kol kas tik siandienines 4 nuotraukikes http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Queenstown#
Hi All,
Just a quick note to say that I did a tandem skydiving jump today from 12,000ft above Queenstown, NZ. As you might expect, it was pretty awesome. Renata couldn't be persuaded to join me this time but she might try it at some point in the future.
As it was a tandem jump with a qualified instructor, they didn't bother with much training... I didn't have to do much at all as I was tied to the guy who actually had the parachute. The plane took a long time to get up to 12,000ft - it's higher than it sounds! And when the door opened, it was so cold in the plane that I could see my breath. I wasn't too nervous until i was sat on the ledge about to exit the plane. Fortunately, I didn't have to throw myself out as my instructor, Greg, dived out and I was attached to him.
Watching the plane disappear into the sky as you plummet towards the ground at 200mph is pretty exhilarating. I spent the first 5 or so seconds shouting out in blind panic ('raaaaaarhrhrhghghgh', or words to that effect) and then had around 40 seconds to enjoy the sensation of freefall, watching the ground get closer pretty quickly. It was very cold and very loud (air rushing past) up there, but the views were stunning and the sensation of freefall was pretty cool.
After a bit of freefall, Greg pulled the cord and we were wrenched upwards by the parachute. This was probably almost as disconcerting as jumping out of the plane, actually, and my ears went crazy with the pressure change. But once the chute was fully opened, gliding over Queenstown was delightful - it was a beautiful sunny day and the lake, town and mountains were incredibly picturesque.
The landing was pretty straightforward. Again, I didn't have to do anything except keep my legs out of the way whilst Greg steered us into the landing field and brought us skidding to a halt.
Aweseome experience... highly recommended.
I didn't get photos or a video as you have to pay almost as much again as for the skydive. I reasoned that everyone looks more or less identical in a jumpsuit and there would be loads of videos for free on youtube.
I was right. Here is a video of the exact same jump I did, with the exact same plane and skydiving company:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6Oqv2jaIak
Hello from Auckland! We just arrived here this morning, got even an earlier flight then we booked as they had overbooked our flight and we were on time to catch an earlier plane. Now we are stauing at a lovely hostel just outside the CBD, called Freeman's Lodge. No bunk beds and our own fridge and a PC in the room! Lush;-)Last night we stayed in the best hostel I have ever been, it is called Old Country House hostel (Christchurch) and it is amazing. It felt like staying at someone's house rather then a hostel. the owners put so much love and care into the property and every morning supplied travellers with home made bread and near the kitchen they had a big herb garden.
We have 2 more days to spend here before heading off to sunny Argentina!
New Zealand was fun but I guess we did not feel very impressed with it as we just came from Australia which has even more variety and at the same time I think we are ready to move on to another continent, to experience some different culture, so NZ was kind of a stop over for us. At least it felt that way.
We did quite a bit but took it slowly speaking in general terms. We travel on a Stray bus (similar to Kiwi Experience, just goes off to a few more remote places and has an older and quiter crowd). If I had a possibility to do NZ again that would definately involve having a car and not mingling with so many teenagers;-) Speaking about teenagers, I was impressed how many very young people travel on their own. We met lots of girls from Germany and Sweeden, lots of them still in their 18! Very impressive;-) If I woould be a parent I would have a great difficulty letting my baby go on such a journey;-)
What did we do? We spend almost 2 weeks chilling out in Papamoa, visited Rotorua a few times, went to a thermal SPA there, spend some time with Andy's family, drove down the luge, Andy did Skydiving and walked on Franz Josef glacier (photos here), I rode an amazing brown horse, called Murphy, through the river beds and fields and forests. Greg B. took us for a "hike" which ended up being this amazing hard core walking up an Avalanche peak (see photos here). My feet are still recovering, Greg;-) We visited Queenstown, Wellington, Akaroa, Christchurch.
Tomorrow we are going to explore Auckland and use some of Eli's suggestions for amazing eating places;-)
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Reportazas is Auklando! Sveiki visi besidomintys mylimi ir mylintieji. Mes si ryta atskridome i Auklanda per 1 valandike, skrydis buvo greitas ir mums pavyko pasigauti ankstesni lektuva nei planuota, nes musu skrydziui buvo perpildytas reisas. Tad esame papietave sociai. Dabar tupime jaunimo namuose kurie yra be galo zavus. Apsistoje esame 5 lovu kambaryje, kuris yra didziulis, turime saldytuva visam kambariui paskirta ir netgi kompiuteri, kuriuo naudojames nemokamai. Po tokiu kelioniu kaip musu ismoksti vertinti net maziausias detales ir pasiilgsti visu namiskiu;-)
Ketvirtadieni busime Argentinoje jau. Kazkaip norisi jau judeti i Pietu Amerika, norisi pabegti is lengvai keliaujamo pasaulio ir pazinti nauja kultura, pramokti ispanu kalbos siek tiek, paragauti kitokios architekturos ir zmoniu bruzdesio.
Musu tiesioginis skrydis i Argentina uztruks beveik 12 valandu, tad gana ilga laika praleisime lektuve.
Naujoji Zelandija yra istabi, taciau bekeliaudami mes tapome islepinti horizontu ir ispudziu ir po Australijos Naujoji Zelandija neatrodo tokia ispudinga kaip kad atrodytu jei ji butu aplankoma is Lietuvos. Salis yra be galo grazi. Mes keliavome autobusu su grupe (be gido), taciau jei tureciau proga kelione pakartoti butinai masina vezintumes.
Bekelaiudami autobusais susitikome daugybe jaunu zmoniu, kurie keliauja budami tik 18 metu. Daug keliautoju is Vokietijos ir Svedijos kazkodel;-) Lietuviu nesutikta.
Aplankeme bent kelis miestus, kaimus kaimelius. Is pradziu laika leidome su Andzio seima (nuotraukos cia), lankemes purvo SPA, vaziavome automobiliukais nuo kalno, lankemes sostineje - Wellingon,Christchurch apsistojome pas pazistama, pasibuvome prancuzisko stiliaus miestuke Akaroa, buvome Queenstown, Andis nere dangumi is lektuvelio (Skydive) ir vaiksciojo ant Franz Josef ledyno su kapliuotais batais, as jojau per upes, kalnus ir slenius bei laukus rudu sparciu zirgu, pavadintu Murfis.
Rytoj pasisniukstinesime po Aucklanda, po vieteles, kurias rekomendavo Eli.
The Year of Living Dangerously was the title American writer and journalist Alice Steinbach gave to her almost a year out of her working life, her lovely cottage home, two sons in their twenties and a cat for a year spent in Europe. Paris, London and Venice were only some of the places she chose.
Reading her book I was thinking about myself and Andy. We chose different locations, mostly the ones which are far away as we knew it takes time to get to these places and we might not have that time when we are older. So we chose Asia, Australia and New Zealand and South America. Alice chose the locations she was fascinated as she was a child, romantic places in far away Europe.
Our Year of Living Dangerously is going well and the dangers at the moment seem so much different to the ones we expected though we are still about to encanter some of them in South America I guess.
A lot of us are afraid to make a change from routine as routine and our homes are the places we feel safe at and with. We have build them to our liking and they are perfect. For me and Andy it was a bit easier to break away as we have not build our home yet, have not yet got a place we would not want to leave. We were on the verge of doing it and thinking if we ever would be able to leave the place. A cosy nest we created together. And we both knew that when we create a place like that we will be unable to leave.
Leaving my family and friends came with a hint of guilt. It is hard to say goodbye for a good year to the people who want to see you, to be an active part of your life. It is hard to say goodbye to people you want to take with you. It was very difficult at some stages to venture on this adventure which not everyone agrees with. Leave well paid jobs and just let go of all the securities.
I am really happy that our families and friends were and still are genually concerned about our well-being and our security. My family even had a family meeting to define their worries and decided it would be better if we do not go on around the world trip. This is what cheers me up ever time I remember what close families are like. Mine is one of them. Very close and very (in)tense. There is a lot of care, worrying about potential worst accidents happening, best wishes and a lot of love expressed in everyday emotions.
After half a year we have been travelling I got an email from one of my friends, saying "I cannot understand... What do you live of? How can you do it knowing that there is no job waiting for you?". I come from a different culture, different experiences. In Lithuania people are worried about the basic needs which are not guaranteed for them - pshichological and safety needs. None of them is guaranteed by the state, The two basic needs on Maslow's pyramid which are perceived as more or less a must in Great Britain.
Our choices are the only ways to change the direction our lives are going and we need to take them when we feel strong about direction of our lives. It makes much more sense to regret bad choise then regret the fact that none was made.
Sometimes I feel like we need to act and not be restrained by our insecurities. Sometimes it is good to let it go and do things you know you will regret if you do not pursue them. This is the step we took and this choice will allow us to proudly look back and move on with the things which are waiting for us in the future.
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Metai gyvenant pavojingai yra knyga, parasyta Amerikietes rasytojos ir zurnalistes Alice Steinbach apie jos metus keliaujant. Ji paliko darba, zavia sodyba ir mylima kate bei du savarankiskus sunus ir mylima kate tam, kad pagyventu beveik metus Europoje. Alice pasirinko zymiuosius Europos miestus - Paryziu, Londona, Oksforda ir Venecija.
Skaitant jos knyga as galvojau apie save ir Andy. Mes pasirinkome skirtingas vietas, didzioji dalis musu pasirinktuju vietu yra toliau nuo namu. Mes si sprendima priimeme galvodami, kad artimesnes salis aplankyti galesime ir veliau. Taip musu pasirinkimais tapo Azija, Australija, Naujoji Zelandija ir Pietu Amerika. Alice gi pasirinko miestus, kurie ja zavejo is pat vaikystes savo romantika. Ji pasirinko tolimaja Europa.
Musu metai gyvenant pavojingai einasi visai neblogai. Visi apsvarstytieji pavojai kol kas nera tie, su kuriais mes susidureme. Aisku, mes dar nepradejome savo keliones Pietu Amerikoje.
Daznai mes bijome imti ir pasukti kita vaga nei esame iprate eiti. Bijome pakeisti rutina, nnamus, nes dalykai, prie kuriu esame priprate duoda saugumo jausma. Namus esame pastate tokius, kuriu nenorime palikti. Jie idealus ir niekur nebus geriau. Visur gerai, bet namuose geriausia. Mums su Andziu atitrukti is dalies buvo lengviau, nes mes buvome pasieke lizdelio sukimo stadija. Tada atejo apsisprendimas, jei dabar suksime lizda, ar po to galesime ji palikti? Jaukius namus, kuriuos sukureme dviese? Ir abu zinojome kad ne, tad atejo laikas, kai reikia pasirinkti, arba dabar, arba niekada.
Paliekant seima ir draugus jauciau kalte grauziant. Sunku yra atsisveikinti metams su zmonemis, kurie nori buti aktyvia Tavo gyvenimo dalimi, su Tavimi buti, dalytis dabartimi. Sunku yra pasakyti "iki" visiems tiems, kuriu nesinori palikti. Kuriuos norisi pasiimti su savimi. kartais buvo labai sunku islekti i si nuotyki, kai ne visi mano kad tai yra gera mintis. Palikti gerai apmokamus darbus ir viska, kas teikia sauguma.
As esu be galo laimingas zmongus, nes turiu seima ir draugus, kurie rupinasi musu gerbuviu ir saugumu. Mano seimyna netgi susauke seimos susirinkima, kuriame pasidalino savo baimemis del musu geroves ir nusprende, kad visgi mums nereiketu keliauti aplink pasauli. Mintis apie slapta seimos susirinkima mane vis privercia sypteleti ir prisiminti, kokios yra tos artimos seimos. Tokia yra mano seima. Labai artima ir virpanti kaip styga. Cia juntamas rupestis, baimes del paties blogiausio, geriausios intensijos ir daugybe meiles, isreikstos kasdieninese emocijose.
Po puses metu musu keliones as gavau elektronini laiska is vienos drauges. Ji rase "As negaliu suprasti... Is ko Jus gyvenat? Ir kaip galit tai daryti neturedami darbu, i kuriuos grisit?". As esu kitokios patirties ir kulturos zmogus. Lietuvoje labai stipriai yra jauciamas dvieju pagrindiniu dalyku poreikiai - psichologinis ir saugumo. Nei vienas is siu poreikiu nera garantuotas valstybes. Tai yra du pirmieji laipteliai Maslow poreikiu piramideje, kuriuos Didziosios Britanijos pilieciai priima kaip garantija.
Musu pasirinkimai yra vienintelis budas pakreipti gyvenimo tekme kita kryptimi ir mes turime priimti sprendimus kai zinome, ka norime pasiekti. Geriau gailetis blogu sprendimu nei gailetis kad is vis jokiu sprendimu nepriememe.
Kartais jauciu taip, kad reikia imtis veiksmu ir neleisti buti suvarzomiems musu nesaugumu. Kartais reikia tiesiog daryti dalykus, kuriu nepadares zinai, kad gailesiesi ateityje. Tai yra zingsnis, kuri mes zengeme ir ateityje mes ziuresime i sia kelione su nuostaba ir kursime toliau musu ateiti.
Hello to all our readers,
We hope you are doing well. Tonight we have a plane at 7.30 to Buenos Aires (BA). We think it will be delayed at least 2 hours but whatever happens we should be leaving to BA tonight and after 12 hours spent in the air we will be in the marvelous Buenos Aires! (Scheduled to arrive there on 11 March around 6pm). We are going to rent an apartment in the center but all the rest of the story will be written in BA!
Love,
Renata & Andy
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Sveiki musu istikimieji skaitytojai,
Tikimes, kad Jus esate sveiki gyvi. Si vakara 7.30 laiku musu lektuvas turetu pakilti ir pasukti Buenos Aires (BA) link. Mes zinome, kad jis jau veluos apie 2 valandas, bet kaip ten bebutu si vakara isskrendame is Naujosios Zelandijos. BA turetume buti 11 Kovo apie 6 val vakaro (siandien). Skrydis, kaip nekeista, truks apie 12 valandu/ BA mes ketiname nuomuotis butuka paciame centre, bet apie tai daugiau is Buenos Aires!
Su meile,
Renata ir Andy
Writing this diary update Renata is sat in our cosy lounge on the black velvet sofa. Bright morning sun (it is only 8am) is shining through tall French doors which open to a small balcony into one of the central streets. Libertad is the street we live on now. It will be interesting to get out and explore the city which has 13 million people living in it.
We arrived in the afternoon yesterday. Flight was long but we are already used to taking time and long journeys, so it went well. Airport and customs went very well and quick. Then we negotiated the taxi price to our apartment and phoned our agent to confirm our arrival and now we are here.
Last night we ventured out to find the closest grocery shop which did not take long. In the evening streets were full of people, restaurant were just getting ready for evening diners and we were too tired and wanted to enjoy the comforts our flat can offer.
This morning we have a guided city walk planned. We will walk along the downtown area, witnessing some icons of the city and knowing about the secrets and history. In two and a half hours we will visit the major places of the downtown and through this wonderful city.
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Saule sviecia pro aukstas terasos duris ir prasosi i vidu, kai as rasau si sakini, sededama ant juodo velveto sofkutes musu jaukiame butuke. Buenos Aires. Svajota, zavetasi, noreta, ikvepta. Mes cia gyvensime visa menesi. Libertad (laisves) gatveje. Degu nekantrumu pazinti si miesta, teikianti prieglobsti 13 milijonu gyventoju.
I Buenos Aires atskridome saugiai. 12 valandu trukes skrydis praejo greitai, nes jau esame iprate laukti, sedeti, miegoti nepatogiose sedynese, tad 12 valandu tiesa pasakius nesijaucia tiek ir ilgai. Pro muitine praejome raketos greiciu, neuzkliuvo nei mano lietuviskas pasas. Susirinke lagaminus lengviau atsikvepeme ir ejome deretis su taksistais del keliones iki musu buto kainos, tada skambinomes agentei ir po valandos jau dziaugemes buto teikiamais malonumais.
Vakar vakare buvom trumpam iseje i gatves paieskoti artimiausios maisto parduotuves ir buvome siek tiek isvarge, tad triuksmingo miesto malonumus ismaineme i ramia vakariene bute.
Siandien ryte ketiname eiti i suplanuota pasivaiksciojima po si bruzdanti miesta. Tikiuosi kad po dvieju su puse valandos vaikstinejimu susidarysime sioki toki pirmaji ispudi apie miesta bei sutiksime idomiu zmoniu;-)
Hi All,
We arrived late yesterday afternoon in Buenos Aires and (as Renata has already mentioned) bought some groceries after settling into our fantastic apartment, which will be home for the next month.
We awoke at 2am, wide awake; typical jet-lag symptoms. After a brief period of denial, we headed to the lounge to watch the six episodes of 'Lost' that had downloaded on the ultra-fast WiFi since our arrival. I crashed out in bed around 6am, whereas Renata stayed up.
We headed out for a free tour of Buenos Aires at 11am. Thankfully, the tour started - and ended - close to our apartment. This not only saved us effort but also showed how well Renata had selected our apartment as it is situated right in the centre of the city. The tour itself was fun... 2.5hrs of being walked around the city, being given explanations of various buildings and places of historical significance.
Some of you may not be aware that Argentina suffered under a dictatorship and a brutal 'dirty war', from 1976 right up until the end of the Falklands War with Britain in 1983. Between 9000-30,000 citizens 'disappeared' during this period. It seems Thatcher ended it all, albeit inadvertently... defeat at the hands of the British forced the Argentinians to re-examine themselves and brought about a leadership purge and true democracy. The Argentines are, perhaps understandably, loath to give too much credit to the Thatcher administration for this.
Upon returning from the walk, Renata promptly fell asleep for the rest of the afternoon. I am about to take her out to experience some of the legendary Buenos Aires nightlife, which doesn't kick off until midnight at the earliest...
For photos please follow this link
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/BuenosAires#
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Sveiki visi,
Mes vakar vėlai vakare atvykome į Buenos Aires (Renata jau minėjo) nusipirkome darzoviu ir gerejomes mūsų fantastiku butu, kuriame mes ketiname praleisti visa si menesi.
Mes atsibudome 2val nakties, tipikas laiko skirtumo sindromas. Mes ziurejome serialo "Lost" kelis epizodus. A grizau i lova miegoti apie 6 val ryto, o Renata taip ir nebeuzmigo tadien.
Mes ejome į nemokamą ekskursiją po Buenos Aires 11ryto. Laimei, kelionė prasidėjo - ir baigėsi - netoli mūsų buto. Tai parodė, kaip Renata isrinko idealia mūsų buto vieta, nes esame pačiame miesto centre. Turas buvo įdomus ... 2.5val vaikčiojome po miestą, kai gidasi aikino įvairių pastatų ir vietos istorine svarba.
Kai kurie i jūsų gali neinoti, kad Argentina patyrė po diktatūra ir iauriai "purviną karą", nuo 1976 m. iki pat dėl Folklendų karo pabaigoje Didiojoje Britanijoje 1983 metais. Tarp 9000-30,000 piliečiu "dingo" per į laikotarpį. Atrodo, kad Thatcher, viska baigė, nors ir netyčia ... pralaimėje ir pateke i britų rankas argentinieciai buvo priversti i naujo inagrinėti savo pozicija ir pradejo tikra demokratija. Argentina, galbūt suprantamai, nenori padekoti Thatcher administracijai u tai.
Grįus pėsčiomis, Renata greitai umigo pietu miegu. Esu pasirengęs jai parodyti legendinius Buenos Aires klubus, kavines, kurios atsidaro po vidurnakčio ir ne kiek ne anksčiau ...
Nuotraukos yra cia http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/BuenosAires#
Hola!
Last night we went on an aristocratic tour (see www.bafreetours.com) which led us through Retiro neighbourhood, St Martin's plaza, monument to Falkland island war, Pilar church, Recoleta cemetery and so on.
The tour left us hungry standing in front of beautiful Pilar church. We asked lovely Makarena (our tour guide for the evening) for diner recommendations and were directed to cosy Cumana in Recoleta area. I have to admit it took us a while to find the restaurant as the directions were not too clear - just a finger pointed at the map. We were glad to find it at last and order a ham and mushroom canelone and different empanadas which proved to be very very yummy!
On Sunday morning we were slow as we are trying to adapt to Argentinian way of living and wake up late, eat breakfast before noon, have late lunch and have dinner at 8pm or later.
In the afternoon we decided to explore another area, called San Telmo and walked there to the Plaza Dorrego where San Telmo flea market takes place on Sundays. The area was charming beeming with street performers, artists, hippies, various goods for sale, lots of antiques and lovely food in the cafes surrounding plaza Dorrego. It was a lovely walk and we definitely plan to return to San Telmo next Sunday for another magic wonder. We uploaded a few photos to our Buenos Aires photo album for you to enjoy the beauty of San Telmo flea market with us.
Tomorrow we have an exiting day ahead of us - start of our Spanish language school in the early morning! Wish us luck!
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Vakar vakare mes vaiksciojome po Buenos Aires su aristokratiniu turu (www.bafreetours.com), kuris mus vede per Retiro, St Martino aikste, Folklando salu paminkla, Pilar baznycia, Recoleta kapines ir t.t.
Turui pasibaigus mes save radome bestovincius pries zaviaja Pilar baznycia, alkanus ir siek tiek pasimetusius. Makarena (musu gide) rekomendavo vakarienei aplankyti Cumana restoraneli. Vietos nupasakojimas nebuvo pernelyg dertalus, Makarena tiesiog pirstu bede i zemelapi, sakydama "kazkur cia". Musu paieskos uztruko gera valanda, bet kai suradome Cumana jautemes taip, kad suradome maisto roju. Uzsisakeme kanelone pica su mesike ir grybais bei kelia empanadas, kurios primena mazas kanelones picukes, tokio dydzio kaip mazas ceburekas.
Sekmadienio ryta mes pradejome letai. Siuo metu bandome prisitaikyti prie Argentinietisko gyvenimo ritmo pabundami velai, pusryciaudami apie 11 valanda ryto, velai pietaudami ir vakarieniaudami apie 8val ar veliau.
Po pietu mes nusprendeme aplankyti izymuji San Telmo sekmadineio turgu. Visos gatves netoli Dorrego aisktes buvop pilnos zmoniu, gatves artistu, hipiu, antikvariniu dirbiniu ir zaviu kaviniu, supanciu Dorrego aikste. Pasivaiksciojimas buvo zavus ir mes zadame sugrizti ten kita sekmadieni. Mes sudejome naujas nuotraukas, kad ir Jus pasigrozetumete zaviuoju San Telmo turgumi.
Rytoj musu laukia labai idomi diena, nes ryt ryte pradedame ispanu kalbos pamokas. Palinkekite mums sekmes!
Hola amigos y familia!
Hello our friends and family. We hope you are well and enjoy the start of the spring back home. We do apologise we have not written recently though we have many excuses:-) The last week and a half Andy & I were extremely busy.
We started Spanish school at Elebaires language school which is a lot of fun but at the same it is hard work as we study at least 4 hours a day. It is a crash course, so at the moment there is a lot of vocabulary to learn as well as trying to divide our time between studies and exploring the city. Anna and Mike are here, so we have been busy going out every day for a meal or / and club night of some sort.
It seems that we have been here for a couple of weeks and our time in Buenos Aires unfortunately is going to an end. Only 2 weeks to go;-o
We have been to a few local clubs: State, La Pacha and seen Bomba de Tiempo playing. We had a couple of tango lessons and I bought tango shoes which I adore! I am planning to do some more lessons with Andy as we both attempt to learn at least a few steps and see a few more shows. We even went to a milonga (tango dance) night and enjoyed seeing locals dancing so so well.
So, yes, I learned my first few tango steps in Argentina!
We love Argentina, well... Buenos Aires. It is said that Buenos Aires is Paris of South America. I am not sure about the comparison but it is definately one of the nicest, most interesting cities I have ever been to. People live in a very different rhythm then in England. Strangely Buenos Aires seems to have some of European traditions. There are a lot of Italian, Spanish and French influences. Food is great and there is a lot of choice. People love meat, especially beef. Because beef is so popular pork is much more expensive and considered more of a delicacy eat.
Nightlife is amazing in Buenos Aires. If you want to go out for dinner, that would mean dining at 10-11pm. Clubs only open at 2am and go on until 8 in the morning.
Tomorrow is a national holiday to remember dictatorship, so we will not have any language classes. We are planning to do some sight seeing, cook some tasty pasta and enjoy our holiday in Buenos Aires.
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Hola amigos y familia!
Sveikinimai musu seimoms ir draugams. Tikimės, kad jus gyvenate gerai ir mėgaujates pavasario pradzia. Mes atsipraome kad seniai beraseme, turime kruva pasiteisinimų :-) Praeitą savaitę Andis ir as buvome labai usiėmę.
Pradėjome ispaniju kalbos pamokas Elebaires kalbų mokykloje. Tai yra be galo smagus uzsiemimas, bet tuo pačiu tai ir sunkus darbas. Per diena bent jau 4 valandas mokomes zodzius pinti i sakiniu verpeta. Kartais buname taip isseke, kad miesto apzvalgoms nebelieka laiko. Ana ir Mikas yra čia, todėl kiekviena vakara vis daroma kazka - tai einame i kavinuke kokia, tai lekiame kokio klubo apziureti ar tango pasokti.
Taigi, tiesa, as pirmuosius tango zingsnelius ismokau Argentinoje!
Atrodo, kad mes jau čia pora savaičių ir musu laika Buenos Airės, deja, eina į pabaigą. Tik 2 savaites beliko;-o
Mes buvome keletoje vietinių klubų: State, La Pacha ir Bomba de Tiempo bugnu klausemes. Buvome uzbege i pora tango pamokų ir a nusipirkau tango batelius, zavius ir raudomus, kuriuos as jau esu isimylejusi! A planuoju palankyti dar keleta pamokų su Andy, nes mes bandome imokti bent keletą ingsnių ir perprasti tango sokio pagrindus. Mes buvome nuleke į milonga (tango okiai), ten ir patys pasokome ir pasiziurejome kaip aistringai vietiniai soka...
Mylime Argentina, gerai ... Buenos Airės. Sakoma, kad Buenos Aires yra Pietu Amerikos Paryzius. Nezinau ar sutinku su tokiu palyginimu, taciau Buenos Aires yra vienas is paciu zaviausiu mano kada nors matytu miestu. Naktinis gyvenimas cia verda. Jei norite vakarieniauti, tai vakariene planuokite 10-11 val vakaro. Klubai atsidaro tik 2 val ryto ir ten zmones soka iki 8 val. Maistas yra fantastiskas. Jo yra daug ir kokio tik nori. Viskas yra be galo skanu ir sviezia. Daugybe ispanu, italu ir prancuzu itakos tiek maisto atzvilgiu, tiek architekturos. Visi be galo megsta jautiena, o kiauliena yra reta mesa, daug brangesne ir vadinama vos ne delikatesu.
Rytoj cia yra nedarbo diena pamineti diktaturai, tad mums nebus kalbos pamoku ir mes planuojame eiti pasizvalgyti po miesta, gamintis skanius makaronus ir dziaugtis musu atostogomis Buenos Airese.
For the past two weeks, Renata and I have been taking intensive Spanish language classes for 4 hours per day, at a language school here in Buenos Aires. Our final lessons will be tomorrow. For the next 2 weeks, we will keep practising and learning vocab and then will take private lessons in Bolivia (where they should be very cheap).
We learned in classes of six. The lessons were very intensive and we were thrown in very much at the deep end, with all of our course materials written exclusively in Spanish and only very limited English spoken in class from Day One. I felt completely lost for the first couple of days, but by Weds/Thurs in the first week, I was able to put together some simple sentences and understand a great deal more. Now, after 2 weeks, we have a good grasp of verb conjugation (including irregular and reflexive verbs) and can converse about a range of subjects in present and - to a lesser extent - future tense. We can order in restaurants, make bookings, talk about our likes and dislikes and much more. We are approximately as proficient in writing, reading, listening and speaking, although
speaking is still hardest for me, as it requires quick thinking. As we are in Argentina, we have been learning Argentinian Spanish... pretty similar to regular south american spanish, but with a few sounds pronounced differently. Also, the Argentinians use 'vos', which is another way to address people not used elsewhere. We have, of course, also learned about the generic South American and European variations.
With homework every night and so much vocab and grammar to learn, it has been a tiring 2 weeks. I am looking forward very much to spending the next two weeks exclusively with my friend Mike, who is here visiting, and not getting up at 8am for classes.
As well as learning Spanish, we have been exploring the city and I even spent an hour this afternoon taking a private Tango class. Buenos Aires is a wonderful place and I already feel that it will be a shame to leave.
Hello,
Last week we decided that one of the musts in Argentina is a polo game and we must not only watch it but attempt playing if possible. We found a ranch outside Buenos Aires where it was possible to do it all! If interested have a look here http://www.argentinapoloday.com.ar/homeing.html
We spent 7 hours on the ranch watching a polo game between the British and Argentinian teams, eating empanadas for lunch and parilla (grilled meat) for early dinner. After the meal accompanied with great Argentinian Malbec we were invited to some polo practise. Everyone enjoyed themselves and I believe it was one of the best things to do in Argentina and one of the best days out ever!
Saturday polo's photos are here http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/PoloDayPoloDiena#
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Sveiki gyvi,
Praeita savaite mes nusprendeme kad vienas is privalomu uzsiemimu Argentinoje yra polo. Svarbu yra ne tik zaidima stebeti, bet ir patiems isbandyti savo jegas ir igaluma ziasti golfa and zirgo;-)
As radau ranca uz Buenos Aires (1 val kelio), kur mums tokia galimybe buvo patvirtinta. Jei norite daugiau informacijos apie ranca, ja galite rasti cia http://www.argentinapoloday.com.ar/homeing.html
Rancoje praleidome 7 valandas valgydami empanadas (kaip ir kibinus tokius), ziuredami kaip Britu komanda yra sumusama profesionaly Argentinieciu, po to ankstyvai vakarienei valgeme parilla, ant groteliu kepta mesa, uzsigerdami be galo skaniu Argentinietisku Malbec vynu.
Po vakarienes mes buvome pakviesti savo jegas isbandyti polo zaidime. Diena buvo viena is paciu istabioausiu mano gyvenime!
Nuotraukos yra cia http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/PoloDayPoloDiena#
1. Dancing tango at a milonga (tango dancing night) with locals
2. Hot and crowded subte (tube)
3. Amazing Italian, Spanish, French and of course Argentinean food
4. Nightlife which starts with dinner at 10pm or later
5. Good Malbec wine
6. Graffiti in the city (lots of it is political), covering most of the walls which have to be repainted every week
7. Homeless sleeping in the most unexpected places
8. 25 protests a week for or against the government
9. Recoleta cemetery a statement about life and representing a grand life with a sometimes even grander mausoleum
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1. Sokant tango milongos nakti su vietiniais
2. Karstas ir pilnas zmoniu pozeminis subte traukinys
3. Recoletos kapines architekturine gyvenimo santrauka, reprezentuojanti didi gyvenima ir kartais dar didesni mauzolieju
4. Graffiti mieste (daugelis pavyzdziu yra politiski), padengiantys didziaja dauguma sienu, kurios yra perdazomos kiekviena savaite
5. Benamiai, miegantys neiprastose ir netiketose kertelese
6. 25 protestai per savaite uz ar pries esama valdzia
7. Nepaprastai skanus italiskas, ispaniskas, prancuziskas ir, be abejones, argentinietiskas maistas
8. Naktinis gyvenimas, prasidedantis 10 val vakaro ar velesne vakariene
9. Geras Malbec vynas
We though we should compile a list of our experiences just in a case if we are back some day or you ever might need advice for your Buenos Aires visit. This is the top 20 things to do in BA:
1. One of your first meals in Argentina must be a parilla, try Las Cabras in Buenos Aires for tasty food and very affordable wine in local company
2. Go for a free Buenos Aires tour http://www.bafreetour.com/en/index.html
3. Check out Recoleta cemetery with grand mausoleums to remind us of the past grand lives
4. Te Matare Ramirez (Gorriti 5054) for hedonistic aphrodisiac dinner and erotic shows after the dinner
5. Visit live jazz and blues venue Notorious which is open every night at 10pm for dinner and concert
6. See Bomba de Tiempo playing every Monday at Konex club at 8pm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrKm5xUQtNo
7. Have a 7 course tasting menu at El Baqueano (Chile 495) and enjoy modern Argentinian cuisine with unexpected offer of squid mousse with seafood salad
8. Watch and play a game of polo with the polo ranch owner Marcos http://argentinapoloday.com.ar/homeing.html
9. Dance tango at a milonga night in La Viruta whilst live orchestra is playing http://www.lavirutatango.com/english_version/clases_de_baile.html#
10. Have a late morning coffee and a couple of mediaslunas (croissant like pastries) at La Biela in Recoleta
11. Go to Cumana (Rodríguez Pena 1149) for the best empanadas in the city
12. Shop for local designers at Galerias Pacifico http://www.bafreetour.com/en/index.html
13. Have a haircut at Roberto Giordano http://www.robertogiordano.com/
14. Buy your groceries at the indoor San Telmo market
15. Have some Malbec from Alamos vinery
16. Give some change to the artists performing on the Subte (tube) in the evenings
17. Visit Tierra Santa religious theme park with 40 feet Jesus resurrecting every hour http://www.tierrasanta-bsas.com.ar
18. Order todo or go just coffee and some mouth watering deserts at Don Carlos in La Boca
19. Go and listen El Club de Tobi if possible http://www.elclubdetobi.com.uy/inicio.html or see Orquesta Fernandez Fierro http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McetUSo72Tc
20. Ladies, listen for Argentinian whispers when you walk down the street. The whispering men are paying you compliments!
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Mes pamaneme, kad butu pravartu sudeti visa musu menesio Buenos Airese patirti i 20 dalyku, kuriuos reikia patirti:
1. Jusu pirmoji vakariene Argentinoje turi buti vadinamoji paralla, pabandykite uzsukti i Las Cabras paskanauti parrila (keptos mesos ant groteliu) ir labia gero vyno. Viskas prieinamomis kainomis ir vietineje kompanijoje.
2. Prisijunkite prie nemokamo Buenos Aires turo ryte ir po pietu http://www.bafreetour.com/en/index.html
3. Aplankykite Recoletos kapines su didziuliais mauzoliejais, primenanciais didingus gyvenimus
4. Te Matare Ramirez (adresas - Gorriti 5054) yra butina vietele hedonistinei afrodiziakinei vakarienei ir erotiniam sou po to
5. Notorious klubas yra gyvo dziazo ir bliuzo jaukus restoranelis, atveriantis duris lankytojams nuo pirmadienio iki sestadienio 22 valandos
6. Kiekviena pirmadieni klube Konexgroja Bomba de Tiempo 20 val http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrKm5xUQtNo - verta pasiklausyti ju bugnijimo ir priglusti prie virpancios hipiskos atmosferos
7. El Baqueano (adresas Chile 495) siulo 7 patiekalu modernu Argentinos ragaujamaji meniu, kuriu idomiausia detale buvo kalmaro putos su juros gerybiu salotomis. Staliuka reikia uzsisakyti is anksto!
8. Zaiskite, ziurekite ir megaukites polo zaidimu su ranchos savininku Marcos
http://argentinapoloday.com.ar/homeing.html
9. Sokite tango iki ausros La Viruta milongoje (tango sokiu naktyje), ypac kai ketvirtadieniais groja gyvas orkestras http://www.lavirutatango.com/english_version/clases_de_baile.html#
10. Velyva rytmecio kava isgerkite su mediaslunomis Recoletos senojoje kavineje La Biela
11. Jei norite paragauti pigiu ir legendiniu empanadu, apsilankykite jaukiame restoranelyje Cumana (adresas - Rodríguez Pena 1149)
12. Apsiprekinkite geriausiu vietiniu dizaineriu parduotuvese Galerias Pacifico prekybos centre http://www.bafreetour.com/en/index.html
13. Plaukus pasikirpkite pas Roberto Giordano http://www.robertogiordano.com/
14. Pirkite vaisius ir darzoves vidiniame San Telmo turguje
15. Gerkite Alamos vynuogyno Malbec vyna
16. Paremkite gatves artistus, vakarais muzikuojancius poziaminiame traukinyje (Subte)
17. Aplankykite Tierra Santa (Jezaus zeme) religini parka su 20 metru kas valanda prisikelianciu plastikiniu Kristumi http://www.tierrasanta-bsas.com.ar
18. Uzsisakykite todo arba tik kavos ir pora desertu italiskame restorane Don Carlos La Boca rajone
19. Pasiklausykite urugvajieciu El Club de Tobi http://www.elclubdetobi.com.uy/inicio.html arba Orquesta Fernandez Fierro http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McetUSo72Tc
20. Paneles ir ponios, klausykite argentinisku snibzdesiu eidamos gatve. Taip Argentinos vyrija isreiskia Jums komplimentus!
Our dear readers,
Whilst I am tasting a very interesting Argentinian cheese cake with dried lemon and aniseed gloves I want to scribble you a note that tonight we are flying to La Paz in Bolivia. Weather forecast predicts only +13 in the daytime on Wednesday and +1 or so at night in La Paz plus the high altitude of course. La Paz is the highest capital in the world (3,6 km)!
At the moment I am not exactly sure what to expect from Bolivia and La Paz. I assume it should be an equivalent of Nepal but with a lot of South American culture which we have not fully experienced yet as Buenos Aires has more of European then South American spirit. We hope to visit Salt flats and a few bigger cities and spend a while enjoying the country's beautiful landscape.
I know we will be cold for a while due to the temperature differences here and in La Paz but I am kind of looking forwards to it.
Hugs <>
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Musu brangieji skaitytojai,
Kol ragauju idomu Argentinietisko surio pyraga su dziovinta citrina ir anyziais noriu bruksteleti zinute Jums, kad sianakt isskrendame io Bolivija, La Paz. Oru prognoze pranasauja +13 dienos metu ir tik +1 treciadienio nakti La Paz mieste priedo aukstis. La Paz yra auskciausia sostine pasaulyje (3,6km).
Sunku isivaizduoti kokia is tikro yra Bolivija. Siuo metu manau, kad ji bus panasi i Nepala tik Pietu Amerikos kulturos pilna salis. Sios kulturos dar nesame paragave, nes Buenos Aires yra panasesnis i Europa nei i Pietu Amerika, tad mes nekantraujame patirti si bei ta naujo.
Mes busim pastoviai pasale, nes temperaturu skirtumas bus didziulis, bet priprasime. Is dalies norisi pajusti saltuka, nes didziaja metu dali praleidome karstyje, kurio pries tai nebuvau patyrusi.
La Paz planuojame praleisti 3 dienas ir tuomet vaziuosime i salies pietus tyrineti gamtos ir grozetis Bolivijos vaizdais.
Buciuoju xx
Renata:
Just an interesting fact about Bolivia - here there is no law against drunk driving. The law was proposed last month but all the public services went on strike, so no law in place!
P.S. Tonight we are taking a 9 hour (probably closer to 12 hour) tourist bus to the highest city in the world, Potosi. So fingers crossed!
Andy:
We have been staying at a place called the Adventure Brew Hostel for the past couple of days whilst we acclimatize to the altitude. We have both felt dizzy and had headaches since arriving as well as being very fatigued. The symptoms seem to be slowly abating as our bodies produce more red blood cells and our lung capacities increase to compensate for the lack of oxygen.
Jeremy Clarkson described La Paz as 'The world's highest, and worst, capital city'. He's about right. The best thing about the city so far is the amazing view, with snow-capped mountains visible from our hostel. The people here are quite charming to look at - the old ladies wear strange bowler hats, huge skirts and long pigtails in their hair. People are mostly short and tan/red skinned, much like Evo Morales, their president. La Paz itself is busy, dirty, smelly - especially the traffic fumes - and can reputedly be quite dangerous after dark. Our friend Anna was robbed in broad daylight here by theives who slashed open her backpack with a knife (she managed to wrestle her digital camera back, though). However, we have walked around the city for two days, so far without incident, so it's not all bad. Drivers here - as well as being fond of a tipple - enjoy honking their horns almost as much as the Nepalese. The combination of the constant honking and the choking fumes makes walking the streets a bit of a chore for me, but Renata enjoys the simple charm of the place and delights in the less than hygienic street food. We haven't been out in the evening yet as we've been too wiped out by the altitude, but we hope to find some hidden gems of La Paz when we return in a few weeks time.
On our agenda over the next couple of weeks is a trip to the salt flats, a horse-trekking expedition and possibly a boat trip up a river into a national park. We are looking forward to seeing the unspoilt countryside and getting loads of great photos. Without wanting to jinx our chances of catching something, we hear reports of enormous monster fish that can be caught with hand lines in the rivers.
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Renata:
Tiesiog vienas idomus faktas - Bolivijoje nera istatymo pries vairavima isgerus. Praeita menesi istatymas buvo pasiulytas, bet visas viesasis transportas sustreikavo, tad istatymo pasiulymas buvo atmestas.
La Paz’as mus pasitiko ismetamuju duju debesimis, nykstukiniais gyventojais, moteriskemis su ilgais pustais sijonais ir ant virsugalvio balansuojanciomis juodomis skrybelaitemis bei milijonais balandziu.
Pirma diena prasnuduriavome, nes aukstis daro savo ir jautemes pasale, sunku gaudyti kvapa ir lipant laiptais svaigo musu jaunos galvos. Vietiniai atrodo be galo paslaugus, tad keblineti gatvemis, ciupineti alpakos megztukus ir stebetis negimusiu lamu dziovintais kuneliais yra lengva.
Siandien valgeme gatves maistus. Pietus mums kainavo tik 7 litus, o uz tai gavome dvi porcijas po dvi desreles, bulviu, salotu su pomidorais, paprikomis ir burokeliais bei morkomis priedo dar salsa (padazas su pomidorais ir chili).
Gatves cia pilnos prekiautoju. Moteriskes pustais sijonais keicia valiuta, pilna megztuku, pirstiniu, kojiniu, skrybeliu ir rankiniu. Moterys, pardavinejancius sudziuvusius lamos vaisius, dar tobulinasi magijos srityje, tad cia pilna medialionu, skulptureliu nuo blogos akies, meiles zoliu ir viso kito.
P.S. Si vakara mes autobusu isvaziuosime i Potosi, auksciausia miesta pasaulyje, tad laikykite spygas!
Today we have been to cooperative silver mines here, in Potosi. Potosi once was a very ritch and poverful silver mining town but it's grace times have gone. The governement does not support silver mining anymore (since 1985), so people struggle day by day on their own.
The mines are like Swiss cheese our guide said. There are routes for 2 hours or more under the mountain. The mines is definately the place I would not like to work. There is no electricity there, all the work is done by hand, no medics are on site. People, all families with children aof 10 years old, work long days around 12 hours a day to make a living which is around 70 bolivianos (7 pounds) a day. The lifetime of this proffesion is about 10 years.
When we were in the mine we heard explotions which we were told by our lady guide was dynamite a few levels above us... Brr!!!
After the trip we got a half of a roasted chicken with some papas (potatoes) and rice all the goods we shared with 3 cocker-spaniels at our hostel later on.
Tomorrow we are off to Uyuni town (another 9 hour trip by coach). From there we will try to organise a 3 day trip by a jeep to the Salar de Uyuni (Salt flats) and logoons, train cemetary and other local atractions.
Missing you all,
Besos (kisses in Spanish) xx
In Lithuanian / Lietuviskai
Siandien buvome sidabro kasyklose Potosi. Potosi kazkada buvo garsus ir turtingas sidabro miestas. Taciau tie laikai jau praejo. Valstybe 1985 metais nusprende nebefinansuoti sios sakos ir paliko zmones tuo uzsiimti savo nuoziura.
Siomis dienomis Potosi sidabro kasyklos liudnai zvelgia i miesta. Apleistos, apmirusios. Darbo salygos tiesiog barbariskos. Zmones, visos seimos su vaikais nuo 10 metu, dirba kasyklose ilgas darbo valandas. Apie 12 valandu per diena. Ramsoje nes viduje nera elektros, vienintelis sviesos saltinis yra ju nesiojamieji galvos sviestuvai. Kasyklose yra be galo karsta einant giliau. Nera mediko, tad artimiausia pagalba yra tik paciame mieste. Visas darbas daromas rankomis. Sakoma, kad darbuotjas bedirba apie 10 metu, nes apnuodytas organizmas ilgai netempia.
Kasyklos yra kaip sveicariskas suris su skirtingais lygmenimis, vinguriuojanciais keliukais. Baisu buvo nepasimesti. Keliai po kalnu yra issirazge po desimti kilometru, kartais ir daugiau. Uz darbo diena zmogus gauna apoe 70 bolivianu, kas yra apie 28 litus.
Budami giliai po kalnu, kasyklose siandien isgirdome dundesius, kurie buvo sprogdinamas dinamitas virs musu.Brr!!
Rytoj mes autobusu isvyksime i Uyuni miestuka (kita 9 valandu kelione autobusu). Ten bandysime susiorganizuoti 3 dienu kelione dzipu i Salar de Uyuni (Druskos ezera), vietines lagunas ir traukiniu kapines bei kitas vietines atrakcijas.
Visu Jusu labai pasiilgome,
Besos (buciniai ispaniskai) xx
We have had a busy week...After leaving the cold and dusty mining town of Potosi, we boarded a bus south to another dry and dusty town called Uyuni. Uyuni is most famous for its enormous salt flats... basically a huge and completely flat desert of salt.
We were hoping to take a 3 day jeep ride which would have taken in not only the ´salar de Uyuni´ (salt flats), but also some hot springs, a flamingo-inhabited lagoon and some other sites of natural beauty.Once we arrived at Uyuni, however, we were alerted to the fact that there was a violent uprising occuring, incorporating many of the towns along our proposed route. The desperately poor villagers in the primitive towns surrounding a mineral mine / processing plant in the region have taken up arms and blockaded the main roads in the area in an effort to force the multinational mineral company and the Bolivian government to make good on their promise of delivering much-needed infrastructure (better roads, running water, electricity) to the area.
Many tourists had been caught up in the blockades and ostensibly kidnapped, driven to a holding area and forced to contact their respective embassies to communicate the demands of the protesters. Whilst no tourists had been hurt, vehicles that attempted to circumvent the blockades had been stoned and chased down. Trains carrying minerals from the plant had been overturned and there was talk of escalating violence. Flamingo lagoons were off the itinerary for the time being, it seemed.
Whilst some tour operators suggested that they had an arrangement with the protestors and could get us through the roadblocks, we decided not to risk it. We could still visit the Salar (salt flats) on a one-day tour in relative safety and then catch a train to our next destination, so we opted to do this.
We joined a group of four other backpackers in a jeep tour of the Salar and had an enjoyable day, cruising across the surreal landscape... flat white as far as the eye could see, with occasional piles of salt ready for collection by trucks. We lunched at a hotel made entirely from salt bricks which contained many amusing salt sculptures.
The hotel had signs on the outside walls asking politely that patrons not urinate on the structure, presumably as this would speed up the erosion of the bricks.It seems to be a tradition for every backpacker who visits the Salar to pose for endless ´amusing´ photographs which take advantage of the strange perspective afforded by the blanket of flat white (hard to describe, but we´ll post some pictures). In addition, three members of our group decided to pose naked in the salt.
I suppose when you´re 18 and still look good naked, you might as well.My personal highlight visiting the Salar was when Renata found a rabit with a long curly tail and, somewhat incongruously, an emu pottering about. The Salar is weird because it looks just like ice/snow and looks like it should be cold, but was actually pretty hot. I couldn´t help thinking that it would be amusing to release a family of polar bears there and see what they made of it.That night, we boarded a train to the much warmer town of Tupuzi (lower altitude and further south, towards Argentina).
There we signed up for a 3 day horse trek! Not my idea, I must add... I´m distrustful of horses at the best of times and actually requested a donkey. Instead I was given a huge black monster of a horse that had no inclination to respond to my instructions unless I asked it to go faster, at which point it would happily trot or indeed gallop. It was just Renata, myself and our Spanish-speaking guide, Eddy, on the trip and it was wonderful to get away from the crowds of backpackers and out in to hot, sunny and breathtaking countryside.
The views were almost as spectacular as those trekking in Nepal - mountains, canyons, villages consisting of little more than mud-and-straw huts and inumerable cactii of all shapes and sizes. We forded numerous rivers on horseback, narrowly escaped being blown up by a massive dynamite explosion (construction workers were blasting a tunnel through a mountain and frantically shouted at us to get moving, resulting in an impromptu half-mile gallop to get out of the blast zone).
Both nights we stayed at a local village where they even had cold beer to relax with :) The highlights of the horse trek for me were:1. The scenery... just like out of a western. I kept expecting to see bandits on the ridge, though sadly none appeared. We actually rode through the place where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were surrounded by the Bolivian Army. Awesome.2. Conversing competently in Spanish with our guide.
Although Eddy was no doubt far more patient than the average Bolivian when it came to my language skills, we were able to converse on a wide range of subjects including but not limited to:Contemporary Latin American politics (the socialist alliance between Evo Morales and Hugo Chavez and their plans to create a new South American political and economic bloc)The relative merits of Britney Spears / Beyonce / ShakiraCorruption in Bolivia (Eddy hopes to join the army, because then the police will not be able to extort money from him and his family as they routinely do to most citizens)The eating habits of Pumas and the prevalance of Sloths in the Amazonian regions3. Improving my horse-riding skills. 3 days, no falls. Renata managed to fall once, though luckily she was relatively unscathed.All in all, we both really enjoyed the horse trek. I am not even as sore as I feared, though Renata is a little fragile today.
There is the newest photo update from us on Bolivia
Salt flats, train cemetery and fish island
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/SalarDeUyuni?authkey=Gv1sRgCLCWnMK49aa9Gw#
La Paz
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/LaPaz?authkey=Gv1sRgCJme5sCAvOLiQw#
3 days riding horses in Tupiza
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/HorseRidingTripTupiza?authkey=Gv1sRgCJW7lbzDi7HtggE#
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Bolivijos vaizdai nuotraukose
Druskos plynese, tarukiniu kapinese ir zuvies saloje
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/SalarDeUyuni?authkey=Gv1sRgCLCWnMK49aa9Gw#
La Paz egzotika
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/LaPaz?authkey=Gv1sRgCJme5sCAvOLiQw#
3 dienos jodinejant zirgais
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/HorseRidingTripTupiza?authkey=Gv1sRgCJW7lbzDi7HtggE#
Kadangi skaitytojai prase geresnio vertimo, nes automatinis google translator, tai as nusprendziau papasakoti visus nuotykius is pradziu ir tik lietuviskai, nes Andzio vertimas is anglu i lietuviu kalba nelabai pavyko.Taigi taigi...Pries gera savaite mes apsilankeme Uyuni mieste, kuris yra tik keliautoju stotele, vartai i Salar de Uyuini (Isdruvusi druskos ezera) ir kitas atrakcijas. Vaziuodami i Uyuni tikejomes 3 dienu keliones po druskos ezera, traukiniu kapines, zuvies sala, spalvotasias lagunas su roziniais flamingais ir delfinais.Atvykus i Uyuni paaiskejo, kad i pietus nuo miestelio kilo gyventoju streikas ir mes galim aplakyti tik pirmuosius punktus, nes toliau vaziuoti nera saugu. Gyventojai streikuoja, nes ju miesteliams buvo pazadeti geresni keliai, vanduo ir elektra. Pazadus ispilste dabar japonams priklausanti vertinguju metalu kompanija, kuri kasa metalus netoli Uyuni. Gyventojai uzblokavo kelius ir stabde masinas, akmenimis apmete tas, kurios manesi apvaziuosiancios kelio blokada.Tad galu gale issiruosiame i vienos dienos kelione, kurios metu aplankeme 4 vietas.Cemetario de trenes - traukiniu kapines, i kurias nubloksti yra seni lokomotyvai ir ju dalys, surudyjusios ir nebereikalingos vietiniams gyventojams.Sustojome vietiniame kaimelyje, kuris verciasi suvenyru pardavimu turistams. Jame nusipirkau keista kazkokio gyvuno kailio kepure su uodega ir 3 medalionus. Du is ju yra vaisingumo medalionai, o treciasis gana pagoniskas, susijes su metu laiku kaita.Salar de Uyuni - druskos ezeras. Tai pati ispudingiausia vieta turbut visoje Bolivijoje. Balta balta kur tik ziuri, bet ne sniegas, o druskos. Anksciau cia buvo 11000 kvadratiniu km Minchin vadinamas ezeras, isikures 3, 6 km aukstyje. Isdziuves jis tapo didziausia pasaulyje druskos plyne. Salar de Uyuni turi apie 70 procentu pasaulio lithium sankaupu. Baltas fonas pritrauke daug potencialu nudistu, kurie didziuodamiesi savo 18-meciais kuneliais mielai pozavo fotografijoms.Viduryje Salar de Uyuni yra islikusi akmeninga sala, del savo formos vadinama Zuvies sala, kurioje auga kaktusai, sokineja keisti zvereliai, panasus i triusius, tik su ilgomis riestomis uodegomis. Triusiai-voveres mes juos taip pavadinome. Zuvies saloje is kazkur atsirades keblinejo ir vienisas emu (mazesne strucio rusis).Po tokios uzimtos dienos vakare pardundejome su savo bendrakeleiviais (mergina is Austrijos, trys vaikinukai is Anglijos ir vyriskis is Australijos) i Uyuni miesteli, kur pavakarieniavome ir persildytu naktiniu traukiniu 10 val vakaro isvaziavome i laukiniu vakaru miestuka Tupiza.Tupizoje atsiradome apie 3-4 val nakties. Su didziulemis kuprinemis zingsniavome tusciomis miesto gatvelemis ieskodami rekomenduoto hostelio. Kai pagaliau prisiskambinome i duris, gavome atsakyma, kad visas hostelis yra pilnas. Tada vaiskciojome gatvelemis, kol radome viena, kuriame dege sviesos ir mus greitai apnakvindimo kambaryje su prancuzaite, kuria mes, savaime aisku, prikeleme 4 val nakties.Ryte atsikele pamateme, kad hostelis nera blogas, su zydru sauletu kiemeliu, bet Andis duse pastebejo plikus elektros laidus, kurie ji siek tiek lengvai nukrete! Tad tuojau pat issiregistravome ir isejome ieskoti geresnes nakvynes, kur musu gyvybei pavojus negrestu.Atrade tinkama vieta nakvynei isejome ieskoti agenturos, kuri organizuoja keliones zirgais. El Grano de Oro buvo mums rekomenduota. Savininke Sylvia buvo gana atvira ir rekomendavo mums 3 dienu kelione i pietus nuo Tupizos, netoliese Argentinos sienos, po klonius ir kalnus, per upes ir kaimus. Mums buvo pazadeti geri zirgai, pusryciai ir vakariene, tad sutareme kita diena isjoti.Mes isjojome tryse. As, Andis ir musu gidas Edi. Zirgai buvo sperus ir grazus. Kai pakelyje sutikome kitus keliautojus jie sedejo ant zirgu panasesniu i varganus ponius. Musiskieji buvo mums per greiti, nuolat norejo lekti kuo greiciau. Pasirodo, musu zirgai yra naudojami varzyboms!Andis nors ir ries tai sedejes ant zirgo tik 2 kartus pasirode nuostabiai, sugenejo suvaldyti kumelaite Siete Milagros (Septyni Stebuklai), ne karto nenukrito ir neatsiliko. Mano zirgas Sudra (Kairiaranke) buvo siek tiek temperamentingesne nei Siete Milagros, tad as karta nuo jos nudribau, is to tik melyne zydi man ant klubo dabar ir riboja mano begiojimo igaluma. Edi zirgas nemego manosios Sudros ir jai kelis kartus spyre, per netycia dalis spyrio man teko i blauzda! Truputelis, tad turiu melyne ir ten. Sekmingai praejo kelione be didesniu sukretimu. Tikiuosi, kad dabar esu geresne raitele nei pries tai.Rytais uzkasdavome baltos duonos su uogiene ir sriubteldavome skystos balksvos kavos ir issiruosdavome i kelione per dulketas stepes, sraunias upes. Per diena jojome po 6 valandas. Sustodavome po pietu vietiniame kaimelyje, kur moteriskes pagamindavo mums vakariene. Daznai vakarienei tekdavo labai lietuviska patiekala primenencios kombinacijos - pradziai ryziu sriuba su darzovemis ir tusinta vistiena su morkomis, paprikomis ir svogunais bei ryziu sauja.Kaip nebutu keista maistas Bolivijoje man labai primena namus. Jie net geria apelsinu kisieliu vietoj deserto. Sriubos labai panasios i iprastasias - sultinys, ryziai, mesikes gabaliukas ir ivairios darzoves. Cia kaip ir Argentinoje yra valgomi i kibinus panasus kepiniai, tik mesos dedama maziau nei Argentinoje ir paivairinimui yra naudojamos bulves, morkos bei svogunai. Tad garantuotai nei vienas lietuvis Bolivijoje nebadaus!
Hello everyone,
One of those charming evenings we spent in Buenos Aires we had an opportunity to visit a local restaurant which had put an impressive show for the evening including, milonga, tango, singing performances and this boleadoras performance. This technique was used in the past for the "gaucho" (forest man) to catch animals. Now it is a part of folklore where the dancer uses the new boleadoras to the sound of percusion and does it very skilfully.
See the baleadoras here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuAbV34hEUU
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Sveiki,
Viena is tu zaviu vakaru Buenos Airese mes apsilankeme vietiniame restorane, kurio vakaro programoje buvo milonga, tango, dainos ir sis ispudingas boleadoras pasirodymas, Si technika buvo naudojama "gaucho" gyvunams gaudyti. Dabar tai yra folkloro dalis ir "gaucho" pritaike ritma prie bugno ritmo.
Baleodoras yra cia http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuAbV34hEUU
When staying in a Adventure Brew hostel in La Paz it seemed that the only activity every backpacker does involves cycling down the so called El Camino de la Muerte (Death Road) which costs around 70 pounds. It was so heavily advertised there because the owner of Adventure Brew also owns Gravity, mountain biking company. I felt that I have done it already due to heavy advertising campaigns going on in the city. So we decided to do something different. And went South, almost to Argentinian'Bolivian border to a big student town Tarija.
Yesterday we hired 2 mountain bikes at Sur Bike in Tarija, South Bolivia and ventured out to see the wine region of Bolivia. All the attraction costed us 25 pounds (including a 4 wheel drive pick up). We were given helmets, jackets, gloves and all the kit of bicycle repairs (if we would only know how to!). The route we chose was the longest and furthest available, 33km cycling from the city to the wine valley and being picked up and driven back to the city by Ernesto in the afternoon.
The journey was adventurous as the map we were given did not represent the scale and it was 15km until we reached the valley called Valle de Consumption (Valle de Vino). On these 15km we experienced drivers greeting us by their horns, dogs chasing after us (Andy saved us both by accurately throwing the rock at the dog which was after us), Andy´s bike broke so we had to ask a man drinking some kind of beige liquid on the side of the road for help as we could not fix the bike.
After 2 hours we finally reached the bodega (winery) which we were recommended to stop at. La Casa Vieja (The Old House) is a winery more then 400 years old build entirely from clay and straw still functioning as a winery these days. We had a wine tasting session which went very well and we ended up saying for lunch and consumed a few jugs of local wine with the group of students from Tarija. The Bolivian wines are the highest growing wines in the world and they get exceptionally good climate conditions. The wines and ports we tried seemed to be much cloudier and much sweeter then European wines. To be fair it was a bit of a hard cycle after the wine and food consumed at La Casa Vieja but we made it with 2 bottles of Bolivian wine to taste later!
Yesterday´s photos can be found here http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/TarijaCyclingVazinejimasisDviraciais?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXw_oHu2fS2LA#
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Kai tik atvykome i La Paz miesta mes apsistojome hostelyje Adventure Brew, kuriame buvo gausiai isreklamuota kelione kalnu dviraciais zemyn Mirties Keliu (El Camino de la Muerte). Atrode, kad kiekvienas keliautojas tai yra jau padares arba privalo tuo keliu nusileisti. 70 svaru zmogui yra kartojama simtus kartu per diena keliautoju is ivairiausiu pasaulio saliu. Nuo tokios reklamos as pasijutau lyg jau tai pati padariusi, nes video montazu perteklius yra kisamas i akis ir kai pusryciauji, ir kai vakarieniauji. Aisku tokios reklamos priezastis buvo bendras hostelio ir kalnu dviraciu Gravity kompanijos savininkas. Taciau mes nusprendeme nepasiduoti aviu bandos spaudimui ir daryti ka nors kitko. Tad atvykome i Tarija (skaityti Taricha), studnetu miesta, kuris yra isikures Bolivijos pietuose, netoliese nuo Argentinos sienos.
Tad vakar mes issinuomavome 2 kalnu dviracius su salmais, pirstinemis, is toli sviecianciais svarkeliais ir visa dviraciu taisymo iranga (jei tik mes moketume ja naudotis!). Visa pramoga mums kainavo apie 25 svarus, iskaiciuojant visa iranga ir kelione atgal automobiliu.
Mes issirinkome vyno kelia, ilgiausia ir tolimiausia siuloma kelia. 33kilometrai. 15km mynimo is miesto iki vyno regiono, 8km vyno kelio ir tada mus dzipu susirinko Sur Bike agenturos savininkas Ernesto.Jau keliones pradzia buvo pilna netikeciausiu ispudziu. Mums duotas zemelapis neatitiko jokios mastelio sampratos, tad kelias is miesto link vyno regiono, vadinamo Valle de Consumption (arba La Consumption) buvo daug ilgesnis nei tiketasi is pradziu - 15km.
Tie 15 kilometru buvo gana isudingi, nes kiekvienas sunkvezimio vairuotojas mus pasitikdavo signalizuodamas, paskui mus bego draugiski ir nedraugiski sunys. Viena tokiu nedraugisku sunu Andziui pavyko nubaidyti akmenimis. Pakeliui sugedo Andzio dviratis tad pagalbos praseme vyriskio, pakeleme gerusio kazkoki balzgana skysti.
Po intensyviu 2 valandu keliones pasiekeme Valle de Consumption (vyno sleni), kurio vezintis buvo tikras malonumas, nes eismo ten beveik nebuvo, tik keli kaimeliai. Prasvilpeme pro vynuogynus, baznyteles, vadinamos iglesiomis, moteriskes su rysuliais ant peciu ir vaikus, zaidziancius dulkinuose kiemuose.
Sustojome bodega (vynineje) La Casa Vieja (Senas Namas). Sioji vynine yra daugiau nei 400 metu senumo, pastatyta is siaudu ir molio dar ir siandien funkcionuoja kaip produktyvi vynine, siulanti lankytojams vyno degustacijas. Po vienos tokiu degustaciju mes pasilikome vynineje pietums ir pietus buvo baigi keliais asoteliais vietinio vyno dalijantis su Tarijos studentais. Bolivijos vynuoges yra auksciai pasaulyje augancios, tad kimatas yra be galo palankus. Pas vietinis vynas, kuri mes ragavome buvo siek tiek kitoks nei Europos vynai - tirstesni ir saldesni.
Po tokiu degustaciju sestis ant dviraciu ir minti toliau nebuvo lengva, taciau parmyneme namo saugiai ir su 2 nesuduzusiais buteliais Bolivietisko vyno kuprinese!
Vakarykstes nuotraukos gali buti perziuretos cia http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/TarijaCyclingVazinejimasisDviraciais?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXw_oHu2fS2LA#
Whilst we are still travelling I thought it would be useful to list down things which are a must for every backpacker. Before we headed off we asked for advice, read information on-line but during the trip still had to add few essentials to our list and throw away the items which turned out useless.
So every backpacker needs:
1. Good quality backpack
2. Good quality day pack, preferably with breathable back material
3. Silk liner (sleeping bag shaped) for those not very clean beds
4. Duck tape proved to be a must for all the unpredictable occasions
5. Sharp knife
6. Needle and some thread
7. MP3 player of some sort for long travels on a coach or for those sleepless nights in a dorm
8. A book, when finished you can exchange it for another one at any hostel
9. Camera, best smth compact what you could take into water or drop and if possible a good camera
10. Small notebook is a good idea as a lot of places have wi-fi
11. 3 pairs of hiking or other durable socks. Thousand mile socks proved to be 100% blister proof!
12. Some synthetic underwear
13. A few cotton tops, longsleeves
14. A pair of good hiking trousers
15. Hiking shoes or smth else very comfortable and water resistant
16. Torch
17. A set of glamorous going out clothes and a pair of better footwear, a handbag for girls
18. Soap, shampoo and other cosmetics
19. Medicine and first aid stuff
20. Money pouch of some sort
21. Large, micro-fiber towel (better invest a bit more into it)
There were few things we took but have not really used, such as mosquito net. It seems that all the places where we stayed, basic hostels even have the nest if there are any mosquitoes. No sleeping bag is necessary unless you are planning to sleep on the beach.
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Kol mes dar keliaujame as paga;lvojau kad praverstu sarasas reikalingu dalyku tokiems ilgalaikiams keliauninkas kaip mes. Pries isvykdami mes klauseme patarimu, skaiteme informacija knygose, internete, bet bekeliaudami visgi turejome si bei ta isigyti ir sio bei to atsikraryti, nes nei karto nepanaudojome.
Kiekvienam keliauninkui praverstu:
1. Geros kokybes didele kuprine
2. Geros kokybes mazesne kuprine kasdienai, idealiai su orui pralaidzia medziaga nugaros vietoje
3. Silkine paklode, miegmaisio formos, toms nelabai svarioms lovoms
4. Stipri lipni juosta (duck tape) pravercia visokiose neitiketinose situacijose
5. Astrus peilis
6. Adata ir siek tiek balto ir juodo siulo
7. MP3 grotuvas ilgoms kelionems autobusu ar bemiegems naktims
8. Knyga - kai baigsi skaityti galesi ja pakeisti i kita bet kuriame hostelyje (galbut tik ne i kita knyga lietuviu kalba)
9. Fotoaparatas - idealu mazas, atsparus vandeniui ir sukretimams, geras fotoaparatas - priedas
10. Mazas nesiojamas laptopas, nes daug vietu turi wi-fi
11. 3 poros geru, patvariu kojiniu. Tukstancio myliu (thousand mile) kojines yra 100% garantija, kad neprisitrinsite pusliu!
12. Sintetiniai apatiniai (dziusta greiciau, patvaresni)
13. Keli medvilniniai marskineliai, ilgos rankoves - butina
14. Geros techniskos kelnes is greitai dziustancios medziagos
15. Patvarus batai, atsparus vandeniui, tinkami ilgiems atstumams
16. Prozektorius
17. Geri drabuziai iseiti i restorana ar kluba (ir padorus batai), merginoms reikia ir mazos rankines
18. Muilas, sampunas ir kita kosmetika
19. Vaistai ir pirmos pagalbos rinkinelis, pleistrai
20. Pinigine ant kaklo arba juosiama aplink liemeni
21. Didelis mikro-fibros ranksluostis (geriau investuoti daugiau)
It is a nice sunny morning here in La Paz. We are staying in a very touristy hostel called Wild Rower which has an all day busy Irish pub. So everyone is watching rugby and shouting! Sounds like my sort of place:-)
Now we should be in beautiful Sucre town but due to a few unplanned surprises with Bolivian coaches we had to change our plans. A couple of days ago we turned up in the coach terminal in Tarija expecting to go to Sucre but it turns up that our coach company because of reasons unknown to us cancelled the bus and put us on the other company;s bus. Ironically that other company did not have us on the list and the buses going to Sucre that night were full! So we had to change our plans and instead of going to Sucre we decided to visit Santa Cruz as they have a great zoo with sloths and then come back to La Paz before heading off to pampas (Bolivian jungle). We were extremely lucky and saw 2 sloths in the trees and we even got to touch and cuddle one! They are much heavier then they seem to be! Photos will be coming soon.
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Labas sviesus sekmadienio rytas. Cia sviecia saule ir as sedziu pilname keliautoju Airiskame bare, kur visi ziuri rugbi ir garsiai rekauja. Ideali vieta:-) MEs esame La Paz, nors turetume buti graziajame baltajame Sucre mieste. Ir viskeas del Bolivijos autobusu kompanijos mums pateikto siurprizo.
Pries pora dienu atvykome i Tarijos autobusu stoti su bilietais i Sucre, bet mums buvo pranesta kad del mums nesuprantamu priezasciu tas autobusas i Sucre nevaziuos ir mes vaziuosime i Sucre su kita kompanija. Kaip ne keista kita kompanija musu keleiviu sarase neturejo, ju autobusas buvo pilnas, tad mums paaiskejo, kad i Sucre ta nakti tikrai neisvaziuosime. Teko ekspromtu keisti planus ir nusprendeme keliauti i Santa Cruz ir tada atgal i La Paz pries pasukant i pampas (Bolivijos dziungles). Santa Cruz pabuvome tik keleta valandu, aplankeme ju zoologijos zoda, kuris zadejo daug letu zvereliu, vadinamu tinginiais. Ir mums pasiseke, mes mateme 2 medziuose ir viena net teko palaikyti. Jie daug sunkesni nei atrodo ir juda be galo letai. Bus nuotrauku ne uz ilgo.
We were hoping to fly into the Amazon jungle to a place called Rurrenbaque for a few days of jungle/pampas trekking before we left Bolivia. We booked our flights, but the weather was so bad that everyones' flights were being cancelled or indefinitely delayed, so we decided to put off our jungle experience and do it from Peru instead.
We were really hoping to visit the San Pedro prison in La Paz. One of a kind, San Pedro operates with no guards on the inside... it's entirely run by the inmates. Depending on their contacts, skills, and cash, inmates in San Pedro can have a very tough or very cosy life. The best cells are like hotel suites, with cable TV and all the luxuries one might expect from a concierge service. Families of inmates may live inside the prison or come and go as they please, although everything costs money. An Australian who found himself incarcerated in San Pedro wrote a very enlightening book on how it all works, called 'Marching Powder'. Apparently, inmates who arrive with no Spanish language skills and no money are routinely murdered within 48hrs. We acquired a contact who could gain us entry to the prison for a 'tour' and had arranged it for Saturday, but because of the weather problems up at Rurrenbaque, we decided to move on from La Paz and forgo the prison visit.
Instead, we took a short bus ride to the Bolivian border town of Copacabana. It borders the massive, high-altitude, Lake Titicaca (3800m above sea level). The lake is breathtakingly beautiful and massive... more like a sea than any lake we've seen. The lake contains enormous and delicious trout... We've eaten amazing trout dinners every day. To give some idea of the prices, it's possible in Copacabana to buy a 3-course lunch - a delicious soup, a grilled trout with homemade chips, and some fruit for desert - for UKP1.30 per person.
We took a boat trip to the beautiful Isla del Sol and spent the day hiking across it. The views were simply stunning (see photos). Then in the evening, we took a bus across the border to Peru, to a town called Puno. The border crossing was easy and they loved the novelty of seeing a Lithuanian passport.
We're now staying at a cute family-run hostel in Puno called Puma. Tomorrow we'll visit a 'floating island'... literally and island made of straw or something. Hopefully more delicious trout on the menu :)
Soon we will leave for Cusco, an ancient Inca town.
New photos at: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite
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Mes tikejomes skristi i Amazones dziungles, i miesteli Rurrenbaque kelioms dienoms pasiblaskymui po Bolivijos dziungles, vadinamas pampas. Mes uzsisakeme skrydzius, bet oras Rurrenbaque buvo toks blogas, kad jokie lektuvai negalejo skristi, tad musu skrydziai buvo atsaukti planuotai dienai. Oru prognoze neatrode palanki, tad mes nusprendeme judeti toliau ir dziungles aplankyti Peru.
Taip pat tikejomes aplankyti San Pedro kalejimai, kuris yra La Paz centre, taciau paskutine minute planai nuplauke. San Pedro kalejimas yra idomi institucija pati savaime, nes jame nera sargu. Kalinius gali lankyti seimos ir apsistoti kelioms naktims kelis kartus per savaite. Taip pat (nors ir nelegaliai) yra ileidziami turistai. Kalejime kiekvienas turi tureti arba pinigu, arba igudziu, kurie gali buti pravartus kitiems. Ten yra batsiuviu, staliu ir t.t. Jei neturi ka pasiulyti kitiems gali buti nuzudytas per 48 valandas.
Vakar is Copacabana kaimo mes nusprendeme aplankyti Isla del Sol (Saules sala). Toji sala yra vadinama inku kulturos lopsiu. Visa sala yra apie 14kvadratiniu kilometru. Mes atplaukeme i siaurine salos dali ir per 3-4 valandas perejome visa sala i pietine dali. Tos dienos nuotraukos jau yra musu internetiniame albume.
Naujos nuotraukos yra cia http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite
Dear all,
Last night we crossed the Bolivian-Peruvian border and entered Peru! We are staying in Puno, a calm and relaxed town tonight.
I am not feeling well as it is already 3-4 days since I have caught cold (somewhere!), so we are slow and I am trying to rest, saying that we went to have lunch nearby the central market area today which was fun as for lunch for 2 people we paid 1,4GBP and had a nice chat with an old couple who joined us for lunch at our table.
Tonight we are planning a quiet night, staying in an cooking some chicken stew with pumpkin, carrots and some giant local beans.
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Brangieji,
Vakar nakti mes pervaziavome Bolivijos-Peru siena ir jau esame Peru! Mes esame apsistoje ramiame Puno mieste. Mes keliaujame gana letai jau kelios dienos, nes as nesveikuoju. Pries 4 dienas persalau kazkur, tad dabar reikia judeti leciau, daugiau ilsetis ir t.t.
Tai sakant siandien buvome isleke i turgu paval;gyti pietu. Atradome jauku maza restoraneli, kuris buvo pilnas zmoniu, nusprendeme kad tai geras zneklas, nes visos kavines aplinkui buvo tuscios, prisedome. Pietus pavalgeme uz 7 litus abu, plepedami su pagyvenusia porele.
Sis vakaras musu suplanuotas praleisti ramiai. Virsime vistos troskini su cesnaku, vietinemis didziulemis pupomis, morka ir orandziniu moliugu.
Hello there,
We arrived to Cusco a good week ago. Cusco was an original capital of Peru (now - Lima) and has a lot of Inca heritage.
On our first night in Cusco Andy met a Peruvian guy who has been studying in France and a Swiss girl and we have been hanging out with them almost the whole week. We went out for a 2 day trip to Machu Pichu (for 93 USD) with them which involved a 7 hour bumpy ride by a shaky minibus, crossing the river in a box on a wire due to the recent road collapse and a 3-4 hour hike to the town, called Aquas Calientes, at the bottom of the Machu Pichu.
Next day we woke up at 4am and at 4.30am we started our climb to the ancient Inca citadel which took us about 1.30 -1.40 hours. By the time Renata reached the top she was steaming! Our tour started with a 2 hour guided tour from. Our guide was called Miguel, he was very good. After the tour we spend approximately 3 hours exploring the site which was breathtaking. We ate our packed lunch at Machu Pichu and Andy got harassed by hungry lamas for his banana and a green apple!
It took us an hour to climb down the mountain and the rest of the day to come back to Cusco. We arrived to our hostel (Bright Hostels) late at midnight.
Back in Cusco we decided to try some of the local delicacies: Guinea Pig (cuy in Spanish) and an aphrodisiac frog smoothie.
To get a Guinea Pig was quite easy. The guy we met in La Paz and again on the journey back from Machu Pichu was recommended a restaurant for Guinea Pig (cuy). A portion cost us 24 nueves soles (about 5 BP) and it was a half of Guinea Pig, some stuffed chilly-ish pepper, corn and some local noodles. The cuy included half the scull, the teeth, the feet and a thick oily skin was tasted disguising.
For some desert we went to the main market at the suggestion of our Peruvian friend Gonzalo. There we were told by the juice woman that she would happily make us a frog smoothy but we must first purchase a frog from the live frog section.
Apparently we needed 3 frogs for a decent smoothie but we felt that 1 was enough... We bought the frog and the woman quickly decapitated and skinned it (it seemed like 3 seconds!). We then took it in a bag to the juice woman who blended it with the following ingredients: banana, raw egg, beer, honey, milk, pollen, powdered protein and a Peruvian herbal powder which promotes fertility.
We drank it. Andy had at least 1.5 glasses and Renata only 0.5 or less. Once blended it tasted like an ordinary smoothie...
We left Cusco yesterday at 5pm on a superbly comfortable bus-cama (bus-bed). It was a long and very comfortable 21`hour coach journey to the capital. The long distance buses here are very comfortable here. The seats are wide, made from leather and recline enough so that a person can sleep quite comfortably. So far we have not experienced any so called chicken buses and are very impressed with the long distance ones as they even serve dinner and breakfast!
Now we are in capital Lima where we plan to stay for 2 more days before crossing the border with Ecuador.
Our latest pictures from Cusco and Machiu Pichiu are here http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/CuzcoAndMachiuPichiu
Visit to floating islands http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Puno#
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Labas visiems mylimiems zmogeliukams,
Mes atvykome į Cusco pries gerą savaitę. Cusco buvo senoji Peru sostine (dabar - Lima) ir turi gausybe inkų paveldo.
Mūsų pirmą naktį Cusco Andis susipazino su Peru vaikinu, kuris mokosi Prancūzijoje ir Šveicarijos mergina ir mes buvome susitike su jais beveik kiekviena diena pastaraja savaitę. Kartu su Celina ir Gonzalo mes buvome isvyke į 2 dienų kelionę į Machiu Pichiu (už 93 JAV dolerius). Ten 7 valandas kratemes ant nelygiu kelioniu mazame mikroautobuse, perskridome upe dėžėje ant vielos, nes del neseniai nuslydusio kelio nebuvo galima pervaziuoti autobusiuku, po to 3-4 valandas ejome į miestą, vadinamą Aquas Calientes, pacioje Maču Piciu apačioje.
Kitą dieną mes prabodome 4:00 ryto ir 4:30 mes pradėjome lipti į senovės inkų citadele, kas mums uztruko apie 1,30 -1,40 val. Kol Renata pasiekė viršų ji garavo! Mūsų kelionė prasidėjo 2 valandų ekskursija su gidu. Mūsų vadovas buvo vadinamas Miguelis. Po ekskursijos praleidome apie 3 valandas tyrinėdami visa objekta, kuris buvo kvapa gniauziantis. Mes valgėmes mūsų supakuotus pietus Machu Pichu ir Andis buvo persekiotas alkanos lamos del bananų ir obuolių!
Beveik visa l;ikusia diena praleidome keliaudami atgal i Cusco ir savo nakvynes namus (Bright Hostels) pasiekeme ties vidunakciu.
Cusco mes nusprendėme išbandyti kai kurias iš vietinių gėrybių: Jūrų kiaulytės (Cuy ispaniškai) ir afrodiziaka varles gerima.
Gauti Juros kiaulyte buvo gana lengva. Vaikinas, kuri mes susitikome La Paz ir vėl kelionėje iš Machu Pichu rekomendavo viena vietine uzeiga. Puse Juros kiaulytes su darzovemis kainavo mums 24 nueves soles (apie 17 LT) ir tai buvo jūrų kiaulytės puse, su įdarytu astriu pipiru, kukurūzu ir vietiniais makaronais. Juros kiaulytes buvo puse su kojytemis, nageliais ir dantimis bei labai tampria ir neskania oda.
Musu Peruvietis pazistamas desertui mus nuvede i turgu, kur mes turejome gerti varles kokteili. Moteris, sunkianti sultis maloniai sutiko ta kokteili padaryti, tik jau varle turejome nusipirkti is kito skyriaus.
Padoriam kokteiliui mums reiketu 3 varliu, bet mes nusprendeme apsiriboti 1, Gyva varle nusipirkome greitai, tada moteriske jai greitai nuskuko galva ir nudyre oda per kelias sekundes.
Tai kas mums buvo duota mes nuneseme sulciu moteriskei, kuri mums suplake specialu kokteili su siais ingredinetais: varle, pienas, medus, alus, zalias kiausinis, pienas, bananas, ziedadulkes ir specialus peruvietiskas vaisingumo misinys.
Andis isgere 1,5 stiklines, o Renata tik puse...
Mes palikome Cusco vakar vakare 5 val ir puikiu didziuliu ir patogiu autobusu dundejome 21 val ir siandien 1 val dienos atvykome i Lima. Cia ilgu atstumu autobusai yra be galo patogus su odinemis sedynemis, kurios atsilenkia tiek, kad jose galima gana patogiai miegoti, televizoriais ir pusryciais bei vakariene (geriau net nei aptarnavimas lektuve!).
Dabar mes esame Limoje, Cusco sostineje ir cia planuojame likti 2 dienas iki 19 geguzes, kada autobusu pasieksiome Ekvadora.
Musu paskutines nuotraukos is Cusco ir Maciu Piciu yra cia http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/CuzcoAndMachiuPichiu
Vizitas i pluduriuojancias salas http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Puno#
Hi Everyone,
We have travelled a long way since our last blog post and spent FAR too long sitting down in buses. Leaving Cuzco in Peru, we headed north towards the Ecuadorian border on the most luxurious coach ever... we had lying-down seats, power points and FREE SATELLITE WI-FI INTERNET :) Sadly, I wasn't aware of this beforehand and didn't bring our laptop charger on the bus.
We had heard the border crossing between Peru - Ecuador could be very dangerous and had heard numerous stories of abductions and muggings in the 4km 'kill zone' / no-mans-land between the notoriously dodgy Tumbes on the Peruvian side and Ecuador immigration on the other. Keen to avoid this but also to save money, we took a 15hr bus to Piura (Peru) and crossed at a different (and much safer) border crossing, eventually ending up in the Ecuadorian town of Loja, where we had to stay overnight before boarding another (14hr) bus to Quito, the capital of Ecuador.
Most of what we have seen so far of Ecuador has been from the windows of buses... it is very green and lush and mountainous and we passed many lovely little villages which were little more than a few houses and a few pigs, goats, cows or donkeys.
Ecuador doesn't have it's own currency and instead uses the US dollar. This makes it a bit more expensive than Peru and we are hoping Columbia will prove to be a little cheaper.
We plan to stay in Quito for a couple more days and then head north to the Columbian border and up to Bogota and possibly Cartegena / Santa Marta on the north Columbian coast.
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Paskutinias tris dienas praleidome autobusuose ir keliones formule yra panasi i 16 valandu naktiniu autobusu is Limos i Piura (Peru siaureje) + 2 val pertrauka + 9 valandos autobusu kertant Peru ir Ekvadoro siena + nakvyne Loja mieste + dar 16 val kratymosi autobusu i Quito, kur mes atvykome vakar vidunakti... Pagaliau!
Pirma keliones dalis is Limos buvo gana fantastiska (ir brangiausia palyginus), nes mes vaziavome prezidentiniu autobusu su placiomis sedynemis ir nemokamu satelitiniu internetu bei vakariene ir pusryciais.
Kita keliones dalis per pasieni buvo gerai apgalvota, nes mums buvo patarta vengti kirsti siena p[er miesteli Tumbes, kur yra 4 km niekeno zemes tarp Peru ir Ekvadoro. Tuos 4 km reiketu eiti pestute su kuprinemis arba pasigauti taksi ir tiketis, kad musu nepagrobs (kas buvo atsitike daugeliui turistu). Tad mes pasigavome autobusa i Loja, kas buvo garantuota nevaziuos per Tumbes.
Didziaja dali Ekvadoro mes mateme pro autobuso langus... Zali kalnai kalneliai, daug ruko, vaziavome per debesis ir debesyse, kas buvo be galo ispudinga. Vingiuoti keliai. Kaimeliai pakelyje su kiaulemis, ozkomis ir vistomis bei asilais, lakstanciais laisvai.
Ekvadoras neturi savo valiutos, tad cia yra Amerikos doleriai, kas siek tiek pakelia kainas, tad nera taip pigu kaip kad pvz Bolivijoje.
Mes planuojame apsistoti Quito kelias dienas ir tada pasukti į šiaurę Kolumbijos sienos link ir iki Bogota ir galbūt Cartegena / Santa Marta, šiaurės Kolumbijos krantų.
Pirmadieni bandysime aplankyti Kubos konsulata, kur mums reikia isigyti Kubos turistines korteles.
Cuba is supposed to be a beautiful place. Caribbean beaches, Salsa, and a unique charm that might not last much longer in these changing times.
We might never know thanks to the the utter incompetence of Cuban Embassy staff. We need 'tourist cards' (something like a visa) to enter, or board a flight, to Cuba. We were hoping to secure these in Lima, Peru, having purchased flight tickets in and out of Havana and got all our documents in order. The Cuban embassy website in Peru is broken and the phone numbers listed are old / invalid. Undeterred, we waited in Lima until after the week-end in order to make a visit to the consulate. Upon arrival at 2pm, we were informed that it was lunch time (12.30pm - 3.30pm). We waited 1.5hrs until 3.30, and then another 15minutes until they actually opened only to be told that the 'consular' side of the operation (which issues tourist cards) only operates in the mornings. Keen to move on from Lima, we asked if we could get the tourist cards in Quito, Ecuador and were told that yes, of course... just go to the Embassy.
Fast forward 3 days... Again waiting until after the weekend, we turned up at the Cuban Embassy in Quito bright and early on Monday morning. Not only was the embassy closed (Ecuadorian public holiday, apparently), but the duty staff informed us that they don't issue tourist cards anyway and that we should try Panama airport. GREAT.
We were planning to take a 30hr bus trip up to Bogota, leaving this evening. Due to the aforementioned public holiday, no bus company will allow us to purchase tickets... we would have to wait until Weds to leave on a direct bus. This would leave us perilously close to yet another weekend (when the Cuban embassy/consulate in Bogota would *obviously* be closed), not to mention leaving us stuck in Quito, instead of doing what we'd rather be doing i.e. going on trips to the countryside / exploring the coast.
I have caved and purchased expensive flights which will land us in Bogota tonight. Whilst a rip-off, they save us a minimum 30hrs of coach journey and give us precious extra time in Columbia, hopefully not all of which will be spent attempting to obtain tourist cards for Cuba.
I have decided that I would like to work for an Embassy. 3 hour lunch breaks, double public holidays (your national ones plus the local ones wherever you are based) and the option to be generally incompetent / unhelpful to anybody who has the audacity to visit, undeterred by the publication of incorrect telephone numbers or addresses on broken websites.
Hi All,
We arrived safe and sound in Bogota last night, although we faced extreme scrutiny at Quito airport in Ecuador. We had our big backpacks searched twice before boarding, the second time being pulled downstairs (under armed guard) from the boarding lounge shortly before take-off :-o Who would have thought that people would try to smuggle drugs INTO Columbia? As well as having our stuff thoroughly inspected by sniffer dogs, it was also inspected by sniffer humans... the security guards were actively sniffing our smelly backpacker gear... rather them than me! It turns out that some people on our flight were connecting in Bogota and continuing on to Europe, so in this context, the extreme security checks made more sense.
We arrived quite late at night to our beautiful hostel... a lovely rustic place with an open fire, 50" flatscreen TV with cable, and a lovely kitchen and garden.
Bogota is nothing like I imagined it on first impressions. Once graced with the dubious title of kidnap capital of the world (and quite possibly murder capital too), it has since lost its crown to much more dangerous places such Baghdad and Kandahar. Even Lima in Peru and Quito in Ecuador have worse reputations these days. I imagined a shady city full of drug-dealers and muggers, but on our stroll around the old town today, we encountered a vibrantly-coloured city with beautiful architecture and a very cosmopolitan feel. It surely has its dodgy side - as do most cities with a population of 8million - but on first impressions the city is a wonderful place.
Much like Quito in Ecuador and Cusco in Peru, Bogota is surrounded by hills/mountains. The climate is quite temperate and not as hot as we expected. There has been a lot of rain today and mist and fog often envelopes the city and the hills around.
We managed to get our Cuban tourist cards this morning and were contemplating a trip north to Cartegena and Santa Marta, both beautiful beach towns. However, as we only have 6 days until we fly out from Bogota, we decided to stay in the locality. The city itself has many monuments and museums to explore and close by are national parks and coffee plantations, so we are planning a couple of day trips out of the city to these places. Apparently, I might see a wild sloth in the Chicaque Natural Park, so I am already incredibly excited.
P.S. Photos from Quito (Ecuador) are here and from Lima (Peru) are here.
Stai ir sveikinu Jus visus is Bogotos, Kolumbijos sostines! Hola!
Po idomios keliones lektuvu, kur mano kuprine du kartus buvo aptikrinta oro uosto apsaugininku ir sunu apuostyta pagaliau atvykome i Bogota (tik 1val skrydis is Quito, Ekvadoro iki Bogotos, Kolumbija).
Mes cia atvykome vakar. Lektuvas nusileido vakare, tad mes Bogota isvydome pilna studentu, kuzdancia bruzdancia ir kerincia savo senamiesciu. Ji yra visai kas kita nei esu isivaizdavusi anksciau, pavojinga, kai vaziuojant taksi reikia dureles uzsirakinti ir gatvemis geriau nevaikscioti ir kameros nuotraukoms neissitraukti.
Aisku, kaip ir bet kur reikia buti atsargiems, taciau Bogotos senamiestis mus jau spejo suzaveti. Ypatingai spalvingi, stilingi ir architekturiskai istabus yra centro statiniai. Mes esame apsistoje kaip ir eiliniuose jaunimo namuose, taciau cia yra ir zavus didziulis zidinys ir ploksciaekranis 1m skersmens televizorius bei zavi virtuve su keptuvemis ir saldytuvu bei viskuo, kas yra reikalinga maisto gaminimui. Kambariai yra be galo grazus ir svarus.
Rytoj tikimes isisnuomoti dviracius ir jais aplekti senamiesti su gidu(e).
Dar viena gera naujiena - si ryta aplankeme Kubos konsulata Bogotoje ir pagaliau (po triju bandymu!!!) gavome Kubos turistu korteles, tad busime ileisti i Kuba po viso to vargo. Jau galvojome kad reikes keisti skrydzius ir musu planus nes nei Limoje, nei Quito mums turistu korteles nebuvo isduotos del konsulato darbuotoju tingumo prioezasciu!
Bogotoje planuojame praleisti dar 5 dienas pries isskrendant i Kuba. Nusprendeme i kitus miestus nevaziuoti, nes nera laiko ir norisi bent jau viena pazinti ir istyrineti gerokai.
Nuotraukos is Limos (Peru) yra cia, o Quito (Ekvadoro) nuotraukas ziurekite cia.
Pranesiu kai bus Bogotos nuotraukikes sudetos i musu internetini albuma.
P.S. I Lietuva parskrendam 8 birzelio, tad su visais labai noriu susimatyti!
Buciuoju xx
Renata
If you want to browse through our first photos from Bogota, please follow this linkMusu Bogots nuotraukos yra ciahttp://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Bogota#We have 4 more days in Bogota, so we will keep adding new photos to the album.Bogotoje busim dar 4 dienas, tad albumas bus papildytas.
Hello there,
We added a few new photos from the last couple of days.
A half day in the National park in the rain
http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/ChicaqueNationalParkChicaqueNacionalinisParkas#
Added cycling and museum photos http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Bogota02#
Tomorrow, on Sunday, we are flying to Cuba where we should be in the evening (local time), so next news from Havana!
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Labutis,
Mes albuma papildeme keliomis naujomis nuotraukomis is Bogotos
Pusiaudienis lietuje nacionaliniame parke http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/ChicaqueNationalParkChicaqueNacionalinisParkas#
Papildytas albumas nuotraukomis is muzieju ir vezinimosi dviraciais http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite/Bogota02#
Rytoj, sekmadieni, mes isskrendame i Kuba. Ten turetume buti vakare (vietiniu laiku), tad sekancios naujienos Jus pasieks is Havanos!
Apologies for posting this entry backdated though we encountered some unplanned internet access and cost problems whilst visiting Cuba. It seems that internet use is heavily regulated and is accessible only by giving your name and passport number at a very few places. The second problem was the cost per 30min – 3 CUC (almost 4 USD).
Now all from the beginning….
We spent 8 days in Cuba and during that time we visited 3 cities: Havana, Varadero and Trinidad. In Havana and Trinidad we stayed at casas particulares (family homes) which we greatly enjoyed. Families look very well after their guests: for an additional cost they offer tasty breakfasts and big dinners. A stay at a casa particulare is much cheaper then a stay in a hotel. In Havana we stayed at casa particulare called Casa Mirta (booked through HostelBookers). It seems that 3 people lived in the beautiful colonial building: Mirta, her husband Gorge and their son Abel. They all had their duties related to our stay. Mirta would tidy and prepare the rooms, Gorge would interact with us and give us tips and advice and Abel would cook and serve us our meals. Similar divide was at Hostal Victor in Trinidad. Victor was our source of information and his sister was our personal cook.
There are 2 currencies and at the same time kind set of 2 prices in Cuba. The local currency is Cuban pesos. Twenty four Cuban pesos are equal to 1 Cuban convertible peso (CUC). Different currency is used by different people and in different circumstances. Tourists normally use Cuban convertible pesos and locals use pesos convertibles and Cuban pesos. These currencies have their place of use: convertibles are used in tourist restaurants, bus travel, accommodation and taxi. Cuban pesos are used more by locals at the markets, cheap restaurants and take-aways, local shops, etc.
It kind of makes things difficult as tourists are normally charged more anyway and sometimes they are isolated as there are services provided separately for tourists and locals. For example we were offered to travel on tourist bus only and it seems that it would be almost impossible to catch a local bus (much cheaper but less comfort, definitely no guaranteed air-conditioning) and pay a local price if you are a tourist. As well if you are a tourist you are expected not to take any local city busses but to travel by taxi as everyone assumes that tourists are definitely rich!
In the tourist restaurants prices are very high for local people, so there are no locals eating or drinking there. Who can pay 20 CUC for a meal when i20 CUC is a monthly salary of a ordinary person working in a tobacco factory?
People who work with tourists seem to ear quite well (this makes taxi drivers ones of the riches people in town), though others are very poor.
Havana seems very safe compared to many places we have been. We were staying in the very centre and walked back to our casa particulare in the dark a few times and felt safe.
Food in Cuba seems to be a poor world of its own with very little variety or distinctive taste. It is healthy, nutritious but very simple. All the local food we have eaten so far consists of tasty small grain rice, beans, chicken, pork, few sliced tomatoes and a bit overgrown cucumbers, slightly friend slices of potato, banana chips and come cabbage with lime dressing. We also had some cheap street pizza which is very doughy and has a splash of tomato and some cheese on top.
Cuba’s beaches is a topic on its own. Renata loved Varadero beach. It was postcard perfect with warmish turquoise crystal clear blue water, yellow sand, little amount of people. Kind of a swimming pool. Very calm water which in the mornings blends into horizon. Another beach we visited was 20km away from Trinidad it was called Playa Ancon (Ancon beach). It was on the Caribbean sea, so much warmer then Varadero beach but had flora growing in the water which was a minus to Renata. Andy loved the tea like warm water. In this water we saw barracuda like just much smaller fish (about 10cm length) swimming in small groups.
In Havana we visited Tobacco factory where all the cigars are hand rolled. We got to observe the process for half an hour. Each of the workers has a quota to produce a day in order to get paid, it can be sorting out 1000 tobacco leaves or rolling 50, 100 or 120 cigars, etc. Each of the worker at the end of the working day can take 3 cigars home. As strange as it is none of the factory workers did smoke cigars, only cigarettes.
The town of Trinidad is an impressive XVI century relict with pastel colored colonial buildings, lots of tourists and old cars parked on stone cobbled streets.
My personal opinion is:
1. Cuba is nicer to visit but not to live: great buildings, amazing cars and salsa dancers though country is so so poor!
2. Mojitos are generally better outside Cuba;-)
3. Cuba has definately ones of the best beaches in the world!
All the photos can be found here http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite
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Is anksto atsiprasome, kad neraseme anksciau, taciau Kuboje mes susidureme su pora musu nenumatytu problemu: 1. interneto nebuvimas; 2. kaina. Pasirodo, kad intenetinis rysys yra labia reguliuotas ir dazname mieste yra tik viena veta. Kur galima naudotis internetu, taciau reikalaujamas yra vardas ir paso numeris. Antroji problema – kaina. Uz 30min kaina yra 3 CUC, kas yra apie 12 litu!
Dabar apie viska is pradziu….
Kuboje mes praleidome 8 dienas per kurias aplankeme 3 miestus: Havana, Varadero ir Trinidad., Viesedami Trinidade ir Havanoje mes nakvojome casa particulare (seimos namai). Casa particulare Havanoje buvo vadinama Casa Mirta (Mirtos namai). Siu namu seimininkai mus labai svetingai prieme. Kiekvienas seimos narys turi savo role siame procese: Mirta tvarko sveciu kambarius, jos vyras Gorge yra informacijos ir patarimu saltines, o ju sunus Abel – virejas. Panasus pareigu paskirstymas buvo ir Hostal Victor Trinidade. Victoras buvo musu informacijos saltines, o jo sesuo musu privati vireja.
Siose Karibu salyje yra 2 valiutos sistemos: Kubos peso ir vadinamasis Peso convertible. Dvidesimt keturi Kubos pesai yra lygus 1 peso cnnvertible. Viska dar labiau apsunkina ju naudojimo aplinkybes ir ypatumai. Peso convertible yra daznai susijes su brangesniais dalykais ir yra intensyviai vartojamas turistu: keliones autobusu, maistes parduotuvese ir restoranuose, taksi ir t.t. Kubos peso yra placiai vartojamas vietiniu – pigiuose uzkandinese, turguje, pagrindiniams maisto produktams isigyti. Kas yra keista turistai yra atskira kategorija ir daznai yra atskiros paslaugos siulomos turistams ir atskiros paslaugos vietiniams, pvz jei nori autobusu keliauti I kita miesta yra turistu autobusas ir atrodo, kad isigauti I vietiniu autobusa (daug pigesni tik turbot be oro kondicionieriaus) yra praktiskai neimanoma. Vietiniai yra isitikine, kad turistai gali sau leisti vezintis brangiais autobusias ir taksi po miesta ir niekas nesitiki pamatyti turistus vietiniame miesto autobuse!
Turistines kainos vietiniams turi atrodyti milziniskos, nes uz 20 CUC galima be galo skaniai pavalgyti gerame restorane, bet 20 CUC yra vieno menesio tobako gamyklos darbuotojo alga. Tad vietiniu besilankanciu turistu restoranuose nepamatysite…
Del to asmenys, uzsiimantys turizmo bizniu uzdirba gana gerai, o visi kiti atrodo be galo neturtingi.
Havana atrodo pakankamai saugi, ypac palyginus su kitomis salamis, kuriose mes lankemes. Mes gyvenome paciame centre ir kelis kartus nakti parejome is senamiescio ir jautemes gana saugus.
Maistas Kuboje yra atskiras pasaulis, susidedantis is neisskirtinio ir blankaus skonio patiekalu. Sveikas, maistingas, taciau visiskai niekuo neypatingas maistas. Per savaite visa, ka isragavome susidejo is keptos vistienos, keptos kiaulienos, skaniu mazagrudziu ryziu, keliu riekeliu pomidoru, peraugusiu agurku , kopustu su laimo sultmis ir pupeliu. Dar valgeme pigia pica, pirkta is gatves prekiautoju. Pica buvo skani, bet labai paprasta. Mielinis pagrindas, slakelis pomidoru padazo ir suris ant virsaus.
Kubos papludymiai reikalauja atskiro paragrafo. Mes aplankeme 2 papludimius: siaurini Varadero ir pietini Ancon. Varadero papludimys yra vienas is gfraziausiu, kuriuos esame mate per siuos keliones metus jei ne pats graziausias. Turkio spalvos kristolinis vanduo, ramus kaip baseinas su geltono smelio papludimiu ir tik keletu zmoniu, mirkatanciu siltame vandenyje. Sis papludimys yra Renatos megiamiausias. Ancon papludimys yra 20km nuo Trinidad miesto, Karibu juroje. Cia vanduo yra siltas kaip arbata ir zydras, tik vandenyje daugiau augmenijos. Andis megavosi istabiai siltu vandeniu. Siame papludimyje mes stebejome zuvis kaip barakuda, tik apie 10cm ilgio, plaukiojancias vandens pavirsiuje grupelemis.
Havanoje mes aplankeme Tobaco fabrika, kuriame yra rankomis sukami cigarai. Cia stebejome kaip desimtys zmoniu rusiuoja tobako lapus: isorinis sluoksnis, skoni duodantys lapai, surisejai ir degus lapai. Kiti suka vidinius slkuosnius arba tik isorinius, treti suka visus cigarus. Kiekvienas darbuotojas per dinea gali rukyti tiek cigaru kiek nori ir kiekvienos darbo dienos gale gali issinesti namo 3 cigarus. Per diena darbuotojas turi priduoti kvota, kas gali buti 50, 100, 120 ir t.t. cigaru. Nemateme nei vieno darbuotojo, kuris rukytu cigarus fabrike, tik cigarettes. Pasirodo cigarai turi buti surukomi per 2 menesius nuo susukimo dienos (data turi buti ispausta ant pakuotes), jei norima cigarus laikyti ilgiau jie turi buti laikomi drekinamoje patalpoje.
Trinidad’as yra idomus XVI amziaus miestukas, turistus viliojantis pasteliniu spalvu kolonijiniais pastatais, akmenimis gristomis gatvemis ir senais autoobiliais. Savo atmosfera jis yra panasus i Vilniaus senamiesti, siek tiek saldu, taciau vis vien patrauklu.
Mano asmenine nuomone yra tokia:
1. Kuba yra zavu aplankyti, bet neduok Die ten gyventi;
2. Mojito kokteiliai yra geresni uz Kubos ribu;
3. Kuba tikrai turi pacius graziausius papludymius pasaulyje.
Visos nuotraukos gali buti randamos cia http://picasaweb.google.com/Renata.Paliakaite
Hi Everyone,
Just a short note to those worried that we might have been kidnapped or murdered in Columbia. We are safe and well and have spent the past 8 days in Cuba; in many ways a much worse fate ;-)
Well... it wasn't that bad, but it was very expensive, full of people trying to rip us off, and terrible for Internet access, in terms of availability, speed and cost, hence the lack of updates.
A proper update on Cuba to follow tonight / tomorrow. We have now left Cuba and are back in Europe (Lithuania, to be precise), so this is almost the end of our journey (and blog!).
We decided to start a list of the books we have read during our journey. It might be of some interest to you but at the same time this blog entry is will be an ongoing list for us so that we remember how many and what kind of books it is possible to read during a year travel. The list will not include travel guide books.
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Mes nusprendeme pradeti perskaitytu knygu sarasa. Cia surasysime visas knygas, kurias perskaiteme sios keliones metu. Sis irasas bus tesiamas, kad mes atsimintume kiek daug knygu yra imanoma perskaityti per metus keliaujant. I si sarasa neitrauksime kelioniu literaturos.
1. The Family Way / Seimos keliu by Tony Parsons (nice realistic novel about 3 sisters' life);
2. A Ship Made of Paper / Laivas is popieriaus by Scott Spencer;
3. Acts of Love by Judith Michael;23. The other hand / Kita ranka by Chris Cleave;
4. An Equal Music by Vikram Seth;
5. Cesar's Way by Cesar Milan;
6. Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, by Hunter S. Thomson (Andy's 'permanent book', carried at all times);
7. Fiodoras Dostojevskis. Demonai / Demons by Fyodor Dostoevsky;
8. Jane Eyre / Dzeine Eir, by Charlotte Bronte (amazing language and beautiful book);
9. Last Last Chance / Paskutinis paskutinis sansas, Fiona Maazel;
10. One Fifth Avenue by Candace Bushnell (even Andy liked the author of "Sex and the City");
11. Pitty the Nation: Lebanon at War, by Robert Fisk;
12. Red Leaves / Raudoni lapai, by Paullina Simons;
13. Starting Over / Pradedant is naujo by Tony Parsons;
14. Swing Full Circle by Chesley Wilson;
15. Tender is the Night / Svelni naktis, by Scott Fitzgerald (really good one about couple's relationship during the years of marriadge);
16. The Beach. Papludimys, by Alex Garland;
17. The Cider House Rules / Sidro namu taisykles by John Irving;
18. The Damage Done, by Warren Fellows / Zala padaryta - one of the best books I have ever read / viena is mano megstamiausiu knygu;
19. The drowned World / Nuskendes pasaulis, by J.G. Ballard;
20. The Face / Veidas by Dean Koontz;
21. The Great Gatsby by F. Scott Fitzgerald;
22. The Meaning of Things: Applying Philosophy to Life / Dalyku reiksme by A.C. Grayling;
23. The mermaid Chair / Undines kreslas by Sue Monk Kidd;
24. The Restless Sleep / Neramus miegas by Stacy Horn;
25. The Silicon Tongue / Silikoninis liezuvis by Beryl Fletcher;
26. The Valkyries by Paulo Coelho (overated and hard to read, generaly boring);
27. Wake up, Sir / Pone, pabuskite by Jonathan Ames - humorous and intelectual character book, highly recommened / juokinga ir intelektuali knyga;
28. What They Teach You at Harvard business School by Phlip Delves Broughton;
29. White Teeth / Balti dantys by Zadie Smith;
30. Without Reservations: the Travels of an Independant Woman by Alice Steinbach - the best book a travelling woman can ever read;
31. Fahrenheit 451 by Ray Bradbury
32. The Sun Also Rises, Ernest Hemmingway
33. Creative Virtualization: Use the power of your imagination to create what you want in your life, Shakti Gawain
34. Eat, Pray, Love, by Elizabeth Gilbert
35. Killing Floor by Lee Child;
36. Island by Aldous Huxley
37. Knock Them Dead by Martin Yate
Hello everyone,
We came back to England and found a CD with our sailing / diving at Whitsunday islands photos from Australia, so we decided it is the best time to upload the photos.
You can find the photos here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/WhitsundayIslands#
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Sveiki gyvi mielieji,
Mes grizome i Anglija ir atradome musu laukianti CD su musu nardymo Whitsunday salose (Australija) nuotraukomis, kurias sudejome Jusu demesiui i musu albuma cia
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Renata.Paliakaite/WhitsundayIslands#
Hi All,
As most of you know, we have finished our travels and are now safely back in the UK.
Thanks to those of you who followed our adventures - it meant a lot to know that you were interested in our progress :)
The next chapter of our lives has now begun. I (Andy) have commenced a full-time MBA course at Warwick Business School (part of Warwick University) and we are both now living in Coventry, close to the Warwick campus. Renata is currently temping for the NHS but is hoping to find more permanent work soon. We have a gorgeous little dog called Bonnie and we are loving our little house and our new life in the midlands :)
For those of you who are interested, I have started an MBA / dog blog, which is intended to cover the dual subjects of dog-raising and MBA-studying. It won't be as much of a journal and currently it will be just be written by me, though I may convince Ren to guest-write on it occasionally! I'm not sure exactly what form it will take yet or how often it will be updated (the MBA will be very demanding of my time), but I hope to provide at least occasional insights into the workings of a top-ranked business school as well as the challenges involved in rehabilitating a rescue dog.
You can find my new blog at http://dogatemymba.blogspot.com
Take care everyone and please keep in touch!
Andy x