The dream of living aboard also required `comfort` and convenience. David in respect of electronics, computer access and satellite TV and Ann to store and keep things tidy but also to hand, and holding tanks (required by mediterranean law to store the poo in!).
It was a fight to see what was completed first, David won . So we now have 3 x 12 volt socket access and on shore and off shore 240 volt sockets, 3 GPSs 3 VHF radios, 3 laptop computers (his and hers and an old spare) autopilot, radar and all the normal navigation equipment (wind, log, depth) which is standard for any well equipped boat; but engine monitoring system still under development.
We also now have a teak folding cockpit table, side vanity shelves in the forepeak, increased fiddle depth in the main saloon to add storage height to the shlves and plans for additional shelving in the forepeak and beneath the sink and chart table (all for Anns `storage ). The list will no doubt continue to grow with time.
These are the voyages of the good ship Aderyn Glas, It`s five year mission to timidly go where everyone else has been at least twice. ;-)
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David, a systems engineer, retired in February 2005 and I, a Campus Director of a Further Education College, will be retired by July 2007. Our ambition, as many before us, is the idyllic life on the water in the Mediterranean
- but how idyllic will it be . . . ? Our boat is a Moody Eclipse. She is 33 feet long, 11 feet wide and six feet high. Can two people live together in such as cramped space for an extended period of time? Will boredom overcome David and will there be enough books in the world for Ann to read? Will the continual battering of David`s head in the confined headroom leave any braincells intact? Will our bodies change shape to suit the strange pointed bunk in the forepeak? Read on to find out the answers to these and all the other questions we`ve forgetten to ask . . .
We have experienced Flottila sailing in Croatia and Greece, that is how we ended up buying a boat in the first place....
We have planned to sail down through the French, Belgium and/or German canals as a way to the Mediterranean and not go through Biscay. We want to experience the culture and everyday life of the countries which we will be travelling through and to take our time. We have no agenda on time, only to enjoy the experience. When the seasons change we will then decide where we will over-winter. This is the grand plan... many books have been purchased and are being read, web sites questioned and we have even joined the Cruising Association, all to glean as much information as posible from others.
However we know all plans have to develop and evolve and ours will contniue to change like an ameoba I am sure (David comments: as far as I remember ameoba are formless, troublesome organisms with one cell and no intelligence - draw your own conclusions)!
While I write Aderyn Glas is being turned in the a `live aboard boat` to ensure all the comforts of home and David has been working hard at this aspect through out last winter, details of which will unfold through this blog.
The first stage was to move our boat from its base of 5 years, in West Wales (Neyland) to Plymouth on the south coast of England. We planned the week of the 5th May but weather was not suitable for our 24 hour passage to Penzance from `The Haven` Pembrokeshire to include Lands End so we returned home on the Monday and I went back to work.
We tried again the following week.
We returned to Neyland on Saturday May 12th and sat daily watching the various internet weather predictions (in wind and patchy rain) until we spied a window in the weather which allowed us to leave at 12.37pm on Tuesday 17th May.
We ended up in Newlyn, a little fishing harbour, a mile or so west of Penzance 24 hours later.
The least said about the journey the better except that we did arrive safely but both swore never to repeat that particular sea passage ever again. The wind and sea state we met will be unforgettable and night passages will only be attempted if absolutely necessary in the future. A pact has been made....
Newlyn is a working fishing harbour and the few yachts are scattered between all shapes and sizes of fishing vessels. A love hate relationship for the fisher men with the `Yatchies` who in the summer are said to `take over the place`. We had some sympathy with them since the council, who administer the port, doesn`t allow them to have a guaranteed berth - they have to compete with the yachts and each other for a place. What a daft arrangement!
Newlyn is now a far cry from the halcien days of the Newlyn painters who formed their group in the originaly quiet hamlet, but there are still a number of pricey galleries cashing in on the history.
We walked to Mousehole, (pronounced `Muzzle`) 2-3 miles along the coast the next day while waiting for the wind to die down from force 6/7 to leave for the next leg. Mousehole is another tiny typical Cornish harbour with small fishing and pleasure boats dried out on the sand in the harbour when the tide goes out, surronded by various little shops, tighly packed small cottages plus the obligatroy pub and car park attendant. You will have seen it in many TV dramas and films featuring Cornwall.
We saw dolphins feeding just off the shore line as we plodded back to Newlyn, a constant reminder of the interaction of the sea life.
The next day alougth 4/5 gusting force 6 we decided to move on to Falmouth as more severe winds were predicted for the next two days.
As we left through the small tight harbour entrance we decided to hoist only one sail the genoa (the foresail) and see how she fared. This one sail, with the wind behind us and seas running behind as well kept us at a constant 6 knots for the whole voyage to Falmouth. We hit gusts of 28/29 knots at times but it was a really great sail, one of the few 8 hours straight with no loss of wind and thus no engine needed. Really exillerating. On turning into Falmouth 8 hours later we had to reef our `one` sail as we turned from wind a-stern to wind a-beam.
Port Pendenis (Falmouth marina) never looked so inviting and we found the booked berth tucked underneath the martime museum next to a 42 foot catamaran called `Take 2`. Also in port were a few superyachts, glistening and perfect vessels for the super-rich. Electric sails, electric garages for dinghies, and the like. Heaven also included a hot shower...
Two days later on Sunday the winds abated and the seas calmed so much that the passage to Plymouth was totally on engine, over glass like water with hardly a breath of wind, never let it be said that sailing is all `sailing`. David took to steering by sitting on the foredeck sunbathing and radioing me the occasional instruction to turn left, right or whatever. I think he was seduced by the superyachts.
We finally tied up to our new home berth at 16.30pm on the 20th May. Now the south coast exploration will begin before we finally cross the channel and enter the French waterways. We have until next April (2008) to complete this part of the preparation and continue the transformation of our water-bourne home.
Finally I have managed to retire and both of us are now free to start out on the 6 weeks south coast experiment to see if we can actually live aboard.
JULY
We travelled down to Plymouth on the 19th July. The weather for the whole of June and up to now in July has been awful. Rain most of the time and cold for the time of year but the rest of July has now been sunny. I have been applying sun tan lotion regardless of the sun due to the burn effect from the sea glare most of the time and I now have a brown face and David also looks the tanned healthy mariner. It has now been very hot for the last few days of July.
On arriving in Plymouth we had to change our berth as the noise from the old gangways kept us awake at night, creaking and groaning, as the metal plates slid upon the old wooden slatted pathways sounding like someone in pain; most loudly in the depths of the
night. We found out, from the night watchman, that this area of the marina had been the original, now out of date, but soon to be renewed. We were lucky to be allocated another berth so are now back in the newer and more spacious and not noisy part hence can now sleep untroubled.
We spend the first few days completing remaining jobs and just chilling out, using the water taxi to go into Plymouth, pottering on the boat locally and visited Morwellan quay (heritage centre) by car. Who says it takes a long time to get into retirement mode?
Sailing has been very gentle to start and we have been up the Tamar river and then the Yealm, stayed overnight rafted to another Eclipse in the Fowey estuary but always returning to base. The weather has oscillated between pouring and so sunny and hot that we have had to put on the sun lotion and the hats and then the rain coats and umbrellas!!!! all in one day but as July moved to the end it was much more settled.
We have used the boat as a base to see many areas of Devon and Cornwall as we still have access to the car and will loose this when we finally tear ourselves away from our home berth. We did leave the boat for a few days at the end of July to see Rob and Sue off to Oz for the year. We all stayed with Sian and Simon in Southampton, then up to Heathrow on Monday 30th July. Tearful goodbyes from all as they flew off, first to Japan for a well earned holiday before the Oz experience starts in August. David and I stayed an extra night with Sian and Simon as David is missing a real bed and I was enjoying walking the dog in the mornings however the boat beckoned and we returned.
August 2007
This was the month for the visitors and the change in weather that heralded some summer at last.
Amanda was the first to arrive on the last day of July so that August 1st found us in Fowey. On the way we tried the cruising chute for the first time this season but still had to resort to motor, the wind being so light. Fowey was full and we had to moor alongside another boat. We found another Eclipse Carriages owned by the Hart family from St Johns pool in Plymouth, small world.
We ate ashore that night and Amanda bought herself a pair of wellies covered in butterflies, very trendy.
The next day we returned Amanda to Plymouth but first sailed into St Austell bay where we raced (under sail) after a tall ship that had come out of Charlestown, to photograph it under its full sail, but by the time we caught it up it was starting to collapse its sails to return to Charlestown, as the punters time was up. She was the Earl of Pembroke.
The wind had picked up and we had a good sail back to Plymouth. However over the VHF radio we followed as a diving tragedy unfolded off Whitsand bay on the Scylla wreck. Many boats and even a warship were involved in the initial search and despite being miles away we found ourselves scouring the ocean for bobbing heads. By the time we got close the coastguard released the news that the two bodies were being recovered from the wreck.
As Amanda had to leave the next day 3rd August we motored up the Tamar, going under the Tamar bridge, passing a variety of warships at anchor and docked, and picking up a mooring for lunch. It seemed very quite when she went late afternoon. We spend the next couple of days basking in the warm sunshine and pottering around and then left at 10.00am on the 6th for Dartmouth where we planned to meet Ben and Nia. During our sail we saw our first Sunfish. A long black fin, tip visible above the water, and the big flat body being lazily moved with the water current as the fin just flopped back and forth in the water.
We ended up on the visitors pontoon in Dartmouth as there were no berths in the marina itself. We contacted Weymouth about the possibility of a berth for later in the week but with Cowes week and Weymouth regatta coming up they were already seven abreast. We had to consider where we could pick up Ben so we decided to remain in Dartmouth area and not cross Lyme Bay just yet.
We spent the next few days riding on, taking pictures of, and walking up and down the steam train line, walking the coastal paths and day sailing before going up the river Dart to moor at Stoke Gabriel.
Stoke Gabriel is a beautiful setting, such a peaceful mooring in the river off the small village. A small permanent pool protected by a bar, is fed by the tidal river and is an attraction for all manner of birds, fishermen and radio controlled boaters. The locals were very friendly stopping off in their tenders as they passed to chat and we visited the local pub by dinghy and went to the annual art show in the village hall.
And still the weather remained sunny and warm!
We also encountered fantastic clear skies which found us at 03.30 one morning with our fore-peak hatch open with binoculars looking at the star filled sky. It was the first time wed ever seen the Milky Way.
We ventured up river to Totnes at high water on the 9th. If wed had a fender board (a plank) we could have moored right in the centre of the town, so weve put this on the shopping list. We motored back down to Stoke Gabriel for another night.
By the 11th the glass had started to drop and a low was coming in. We needed to go out to sea, to empty the tanks, and stock up on supplies, so we returned to Dartmouth but only after a lovely sail across the bay after leaving the river.
We got a berth this time in the marina and remained there waiting for Ben and Nia to join us. Rain and wind came in on the 13th into 14th with a vengeance, the most uncomfortable night in any marina ever, so much so that we felt sick on the boat. David very grumpy! Boats were being lifted up and thrown towards the pontoon and fingers held only in place by their warps which jarred and snatched under the strain. The strong rain and wind made it feel like winter!
We abandoned ship for Paignton by steam train for the rest of that day. The crew (David) being mutinous, but revived by an hour discussing the trip to Oz with a travel agent and a nice lunch in a Tai restaurant. The wind moderated overnight and calm prevailed again ready for our next guests.
Ben and Nia arrived on the 15th.
We started the next day with safety chat and life jacket allocation only for Ben to inflate his as he showed us how to check the activation mechanism!! After a trip to the chandlers for a replacement we sailed for Brixham. Ben was insistent on fishing so he and Nia had bought crab lines (all we could get in the local chandlery) and we had fun trailing the lines while sailing and whist at anchor, although no fish were caught. Ben and Nia helmed, both under sail and engine, Nia was a natural (and so was Ben). We only motored around Brixham harbour instead of mooring as we had decided to anchor in nearby Elberry bay for lunch. A gentle sail outward but by the time we got back to Plymouth the sea had started to kick up and we were glad to be back in a berth.
The next day we left the marina to give Ben and Nia a taste of the river in contrast to the sea, however as we made our way upstream the engine alarm went off indicating no water flow through the engine an emergency! We pulled onto an MOD pontoon nearby. When we could not clear the blockage we radioed the harbour master to inform him we would have to dry out on the nearby mud bank we spent the next 5 hours waiting for the tide to go out and then return for us to continue up river. David and Ben took to the dinghy with poles and brushes to try and remove the blockage, and prodded and poked from within the engine when the tide and gone out. As we were in soft mud with a few inches of water on top, we never actually saw the bottom of the boat. We just slipped deeper into the mud as the water drained away; however the blockage was removed one way or another, though we are still not sure what it was maybe a plastic bag on the outside.
Stoke Gabriel was now too far to go and so we picked up a buoy at Dittisham for the night and used the dinghy to get ashore to the Pub. The Ferry Boat Inn was crowded but a trek up the very steep hill rewarded us with good food and drink in the Red Lion at the top.
We woke the next day to rain pouring down and the wind howling, a great pity that the settled weather seemed to have now broken. All decided that we should get Ben and Nia back to their car in Dartmouth but the trip down the river was really hairy with gusts of 39knots (gale force!!). We wondered how we would be able to get alongside to drop them off, but we managed, as the wind died back enough to land. It rose again as David and I returned back up river. Ben and Nias first trip on the boat had varied from gentle breeze to gales with one breakdown.
We spent the next two days at Dittisham riding out the storm on the mooring.
By Monday 21st we were running low on some supplies and needed a shower. The rain was still heavy but wind seemed to have lessened. We hailed the water taxi that runs to Dartmouth from Dittisham and dressed in full wet weather gear with plastic bags inside our rucksacks off we went. When we arrived in Dartmouth an extreme squall with horizontal rain and wind developed which stopped everyone - even the ferries in their tracks. We found out later that this weather system had cause severe flooding in the surrounding area, and some deaths. By the evening the skies were clearing and we had a most beautiful sunset. The storm had past at last. It would be a day or two before the seas would be calm for us to sail back to Plymouth, so we walked to Dittisham Mill on the Tuesday and Galmpton and Greenway House (Agatha Christies home) on Wednesday. It had been an enforced but enjoyable stay in the river Dart.
On the 23rd we sailed back to Plymouth. It took us nine hours in total; we got to the Sound in seven hours but we were enjoying the sailing too much to go in to the berth so keep going for a while. As we left Dittisham the engine started pouring black smoke, this was not what it was supposed to do. We have a problem, Houston.
The next few days were spent day sailing, walking and sightseeing in the surrounding area and speaking to everyone we could find for their thoughts on our engine problem. I did not know so many versions and theories could be forthcoming; a sweepstake is now on as to what will be the outcome when we get an engineer in to diagnose.
We also took Jan (friend from work) and Simon up the Yealm for the day on bank holiday Sunday after drifting across the bay in the light airs, but better wind coming back in the evening. Simon is a racing man and tweaked our rigging for us. It was still disappointing to see all the other boats sailing past us though - this is the price you pay for buying a live-aboard cruiser!
We have also made some friends among the other boat owners along our pontoon which now makes Plymouth feel like a true base.
We reluctantly left the boat on 28th August after 6 weeks aboard. We know we can live on board now and although we did not go too far in distance we have learned a lot about life on board and Aderyn Glas as a home.
September was a month for coming and going. We returned for the first time on the 11th as the engineer was coming later that week, to try and find the reason for our black smoke emissions which darkened the sky for miles any time we ran the engine over 2500RPM but first we had to attend to Aderyn Glas’s bottom!!!
Having had a Copper Coat applied to her hull (at great expense…last October) we now had to rub off any weed which had tried to make its permanent home on the hull over the season, and re-expose the copper. Copper is death to sea life. The copper seemed to have worked well as there did not seem to be that much growth.
Turnchapel, the original site for the marina before the main one was built, is a very small drying harbour only yards from the end of the present marina and still owned by it. This was our destination for the big event (a long way to travel all of 100yds or so).
We calculated tide times and the length of time we would have the hull exposed above the receding water and set off as the tide turned to wait for the sea to drain from the harbour and leave us stranded but dry to carry out our job. Calculations correct, we moved freely around and under the boat. The smell of the mud and the slimy weed on the stones beneath our feet, did not make us feel happy to lie on our backs or get on our knees to get under the boat. In our planning we decided “we can beat this”. So we had brought tarpaulins to use as ground sheets so we felt more reassured that this would keep us relatively clean. However we had not reckoned on the vast amount of green ‘dye’ from the small amount of weed, which would drip down and cover us head to foot, leaving clothes only fit for the bin as we rubbed the weed off the hull with scotch bright pads. No one recognized us as we skulked back to the marina (via the road) looking like the incredible hulk in duplicate, for a shower. We waited for the tide to turn and allow us back to our berth at the end of the day with a drink in hand.
Next day we sailed out to the Mew Stone and around to the Yealm since the wind was good and we couldn’t guess how many more sailing days there would be in the month and we didn’t want to waste any, great to be free on the sea once more.
Ian Austin, the engineer visited the next day and declared a broken turbo charger which would need replacing (more money)… he came and stripped it all down the following week and by the time I returned with my walking friends for a weekend on 28th September all was fixed. No more black smoke and an amazing increase in power. We wondered if the thing had ever worked properly.
We also visited Charlestown that week. This little drying harbour has a very small entrance through the enclosing wall and is home to good sailing museum. A few cottages, two pubs and 3 working tall ships which ply St Austell bay in the summer loaded with tourists, complete the picture. In harbour the tall ships capture the essence of what the harbours of this area might have looked like 150 years ago at the height of the clipper era, with their furled sails and tall masts dominating the quay sides. Well worth a visit with a camera.
On the way home on the 16th we called into the Devon Steam railway at Buckfastleigh and to our surprise it was a steam and vintage car day so spent a few happy hours there.
I returned for the weekend of 28th September in the company of my walking friends from work. Irene, Jen and Ferne. This was Ferne’s first time on the boat and she was not really looking forward to it, the others had been on La Crevette but Ferne soon exchanged heels for trainers and seemed to enjoy it all (but maybe not sharing a cabin with me and my snoring)
All had their H&S briefing, life jacket allocation and job allocation for leaving and returning to port on the Saturday morning and off we went.
We motored up the Tamar River and under Brunel’s original railway bridge and the adjacent Tamar road bridge on the Saturday morning taking in the warships at Devonport, missing the chain ferries (just) and finding a house on the Cornwall side under the bridge painted like a union jack flag.Lots to see and plenty of pictures taken.
Ferne and Irene both having a go at the wheel, naturals!! Well done.
We walked in the afternoon from the boat to Fort Bovisand and back encompassing the cliff paths, woodlands and finally roads, as we followed a circular trail via an OS map. Ferne led the way, being a Cader Idris and Snowdon veteran, the rest of us finding excuses for a breather by looking at the views or wild life. The different terrains and scenery made it a very enjoyable walk except my old injured feet felt it at the end.
The next morning we voted for boating over walking and went out past the breakwater, sailing until the sea and the wind started to kick up a little (sickness felt by two of the motley crew) and then we returned to port. Irene and Ferne both helmed under sail, not sure if they liked that as much as engine and wheel.
Faultless berthing, with all of us ending up on the jetty holding on to the boat!! But we were soon tightly tied up and shipshape for lunch
As the girls were returning that Sunday afternoon, we did not go walking again but collapsed in the cockpit chatting and napping, and, in fact David arrived before they left for home that Sunday.
David and I then stayed for the rest of the week as the weather was so good, not arriving home until Monday 8th October. This is the way of retirement, just go with the flow.
This month has been devoted to making our engine fully functional again. The replacement of the turbocharger did not solve the problems of overheating over 3000 RPM as our sea trials showed (although the extra power made us wonder if the thing had ever worked properly). It seemed likely the heat exchanger was at fault so we planned to take it home for clean.
After much huffing, puffing and swearing; water, antifreeze and weed spilled out in the bilge (which Ann had to clear up later) and every action photographed so David would know how to reassemble all the bits... (we hope). All was brought home in plastic bags and then my best knitting needles were used to clean the myriad of tiny copper tubes which make up the inside of the heat exchanger, as they were the right size to get inside.
Acetic acid and cillit bang (hate that advert!!!) followed (not at the same time) and it now looks shiny but we did not get much muck out of it`s innards so until it all gets back together who knows if it will make any difference, one must hope...
Woodwork also featured high on the task list adding those extra storage areas which our time on board this summer showed would make life easier as liveaboards (so says Ann). I lined the wet locker in the heads. We never found it suitable, too small and cramped to dry anything, but now all the shoes and towels can live there. Also the galley area has a spice / mug rack which spans the whole surface above the galley. Looks great and plenty of extra space. Even the forepeak has had an additional shelf inserted below the anchor locker and above our feet so as we lie in bed we can view this lovely teak addition.
On the electronic front LED lights now hang suspended from the cockpit canopy and give a lovely blue-white glow to that area at night all, possible through an extra 12volt socket in the cock pit, David`s latest electronic extra. HOWEVER the Engine management system is still `under test` and seems to develop new bugs every day [now finished - 14th DB], Champagne will be opened and consumed in great quantities when this finally is installed and working on board (today`s champage may be vintage by then!!!).
The oil heater and dehumidifier have now been installed to keep Aderyn Glas warm, dry and snug for the winter.
November arrives next week and we go to the boat on the 16th for one last visit before heading off to the Southern Hemisphere (lots of sun we hope) on the 26th. Our blog will continue via plane and car as we explore New Zealand and Australia.
Our proposed route is already outlined on MY MAP have a look and `get jealous`
Keep reading!!!!
It is important when rapidly ascending a companion stairway to first ensure that the hatch at the top is OPEN ,BEFORE you attempt to leave the main cabin on your boat.
David was alone in Plymouth on the boat (Friday 16th November) replacing the heat exchanger on the engine. Job completed he decided on an engine and water leak test. Once engine switched on and running he decided to check that water was leaving the engine through the outlet.( only way to check is to look over the BACK of the boat)
The steps had been removed to work on the engine and thus David launched himself upwards over the open engine compartment and through the open door way into the cockpit....or so he thought!!!!
Head and hatch cover met, painful head and neck and lots of blood!!!!!
One of the marina staff drove him to A&E where 10 stitches were need to `plug the gap`. I was phoned and drove from home( Wales) on a mercy dash to Plymouth A&E to prevent him being kept in over night. My first question to the Doctor was " can he fly next week" when answer was "yes" sympathy flowed......
Stitches come out tomorrow, the day we fly out to Singapore. A close shave for all and a warning to others
Arrived safely and felt the humid heat hit you as we emerged from the airplane. Transfers were so smooth and seamless it was great. We were tired but had been told to eat then go to bed . As it was night anyway easy to do, but after 2hrs woke as it was only 2.00pm in Wales. Hotel good and situated on Orchard road the main shopping area. Too much weight in suitcase as yet to be able to buy!!!!
We booked for a tour of SENTOSA next day ,Wednesday ( island off tip of Singapore used a holiday area for locals) which included a Dolphin show ( weather permitting) believe it or not we had a Tropical rain storm as we were all seated ready for the show, most of the beach ended up in the lagoon and we were all drenched, never seen rain like it!!!! The staff used the big table umbrellas to shepherd us of the beach in batches imagine the picture ( i have it on video to bore you with. Even the cable car ride was in the rain to the Island... never mind all part of the experience.
Raffles and the obligatory Singapore sling was a must ( David had a tiger beer). It was not a disappointment. The old colonial bungalow feel is still there complete with little birds and crushed peanut shells on the floor.plus old pictures on the wales pre and post 1900. The door men were in traditional attire with turbans and white uniforms and the whole place was trimmed with garlands and red bows for Christmas. So seen in a different light this time of year.We manged to wander through the court yards and into the main hotel. Arrived in a taxi thus driven up to the main door and helped out by the true porters After this we walked back up Orchard road until we could take the heat no longer , slipped inot a shopping mall for the air conditioning and an ice cream and returned to the hotel to await our transfer pick up.
It is an expensive place but one worth coming back to to explore more
Now in Changi airport waiting plane to Auckland via Sydney
Well arrived very tired after passing through 3 times zones and 3 countries within 13 hours.( had to touch down in Sydney en route. Also our flight from Singapore was nearly one hour late so we did not know if we would get the connection, but the plane was held for about 12 of us... great relief
David had his case searched in NZ and his boots were taken away to be washed in case he was bringing in anything attached to them which could harm the environment!!!! They are really serious about food, liquids etc( no duty free!!!!)even have sniffer dogs which are roaming in the terminal.
Auckland was cloudy and drizzle welcomed us as we left the airport to pick up the car. My brilliant map reading got us to the city center hotel but no where to park car until we read small notice which stated valet parking.Phew....
Most odd room the bed was in a garage, 2 double doors to open to reach it ( no other way to describe it) Photos later..
Auckland is a city of hills where ever you go your legs soon get worn out.It also comes alive at night and is full of people, hustle and bustle but relatively quite in the day
We visited the Sky Tower which gives a 360 panoramic view of the city, amazing. glass panel in the lift walls and in the walk way floors.They also bungy jump off the top!!! A body appeared at the cafe window while we were having a quiet coffee( 200 metres up) talk about fright, then it fell to earth!!!! This is how we found out about bungy jumping. Don`t worry we did not do it.
But Auckland is the city of sails and that we had to do.Only an Hour on a SCOW an old 1900 working sail boat. Brilliant to be out in the bay. 2 America cup sailing boats were also out there at the time , needless to say who was soon a spot in the distance
Paphia next stop
Traveling north to Paihia from Auckland we felt quite alone on the roads. Traffic is very sparse once you leave the city and the roads become two lane. Vegetation changes and tree ferns, palms and flax plants are now the things you see. We stopped at glow worm caves at Waiomio, Kawiti caves, (on the way to Paihia). Inside lime stone caves, really amazing. In the dark your hands are just visible through the light from the glow worms which look like the Milky Way across the cave roof.
The weather was starting to improve and we had two lovely sunny days. Sun tan lotion the order of the day and hats.
At Paihia, Bay of Islands,we took to the water again, off to see dolphins and weave through the myriad of island ( 144 in total) over green calm water with the sun shining. It was awesome going through the Hole in the Rock as the swell and tight fit, boat in gap, made you breath in!!! We stopped off at Russell island, captain Cooke`s first land fall in NZ . This has a colonial feel, bungalows with verandas and the street names all with English feel but had a history of being the hell hole of the Pacific in the 1700`s due to drunken sailors and whalers making it their pit-stop.
The Treaty Grounds at Waitangi (mainland) overlooks Russell Island and there we learnt the history of the Maori European treaty (19 century).
We also drove to Matauri bay not far up the coast from Paihia but it was worlds away from the Town. Beautiful unspoilt beach, white sands, blue water but no people...., literally we walked hand in hand, no shoes, in the Pacific ocean surf, from one end to the other... romantic or what!!!!
Paihia reminded us of a low rise sea side resort in Britain, ( except for the views to sea ward - fantastic with the mirriad of Islandsand moored boats) but the best backpakers accommodation in NZ says all the books and there was pleanty of them( we were in a motel)
We left Paihia in 23C and arrived in Rotorua in 17C and rain!
The scenery changed from coastal to small green mountains covered in mist.
We both had colds developing and then we hit the smell of Hydrogen Sulphide!. That cleared the noses for a while.
It is disappointing that the weather has changed so much as this looks an interesting place. We visited the museum the first moring to stay dry! It was a fascinating place, being sited in the original 1900`s spa bath house and the history of that, also the 1886 local eruption which destroyed fantastic white and pink larva pool terraces which were the centre of the 1880`s spa industry here.
The rain eased by lunch time and we went to Te Puia, a thermal village where the geysers, mud pools, boiling water and steam vents had us gazing in wonder... again amazing place, and still it rained.
A Hangi (Maori feast) was booked for the evening and we went dressed in waterproofs (good thing as the wind came up and it was cold (about -20C, according to David who shivered the whole time))
David was chosen as `Chief` to represent our coach and when all coaches assembled in the meeting area at the Hangi he became the chosen chief to represent all the coaches and thus had to face and great the Maori warriors and touch noses with everyone on our behalf before we could enter the hangi. He was told on no account must he laugh or smile during the ceremony, however silly it looked, and said afterward he was so frightened by the appearance of the warrior who confronted him that laughing was never further from his mind. He was also not allowed to turn his back on the warrior - as he said, turning his back on a largely naked butch man dressed only in a mini skirt, black knickers and make-up, was also not an option. At the end of the evening he also had to say the farewell for the party. Good fun, but David did not think so at the start.
Well we left Rotorua, still in overcast conditions, overall Rotorua is not high on our ``come back to list.``
The drive to Wellington was through the center of North Island crossing to the West side. The scenery was much more rugged, mountain ranges and very little habitation, either towns, people or trees. We kept seeing blue sky in the distance but never caught up with it.
When we reached the coast we stopped for coffee in Fenton. There in a lovely enclosed garden attached to the cafe, while eating delicious home made food, we were told about Paremata, just outside Wellington as a stop for the night. We took the advice.
We found both a motel and a yacht club. This was just behind our motel which welcomed visitors, had FISH (me eating fish!!!!) and it was superb, fresh almost flapping off the plate. After we walked around the boats, feeling quite at home and looked at the charts of the area and the dangers for all types of boats in the waters around this coastline with all the hidden rocks, shoals and reefs. This was borne out when we had a flying visit into Wellington museum (Sunday am) while waiting to board our ferry to Picton (South Island). There they had charts showing wrecks 1800 up to present day, last 1996. Frightening when you saw the numbers involved.
The famous red wooden cable car we were riding up to the view point over Wellington at 9.15 am on Sunday morning. The SUN had come out of hiding and we had packed the suntan lotion, can you believe it? The views were tremendous across the harbor. The botanical gardens were adjacent and we had time for a peek in and walk around. However the world famous observatory was closed. David had wanted to see this very much
The ferry crossing (Blue Bridge ferries) was calm and I spent much of it looking for whales or dolphins, neither of which surfaced for me. The sun was still shining but I did not realise until later that evening that I was actually sunburned.
The entrance to Picton and the South Island was through a sound (long water passage between mountains on either side and lots of inlets, some sandy, some sheer rock) which lasted about 1 hour. Magnificent scenery, tree covered and uninhabited for almost the whole length the ferry twisting and turning to pass through the gaps between the land masses. There were one or to bays that had a boat and a house! So Isolated, it was unbelievable along such a stretch of coastline.
The port of Picton was very busy and industrial being the point of entry and departure of all goods for the south Island by sea, but as you moved from the docking area you arrived in a pretty little harbor, which our motel overlooked, with full view of the whole area and sound beyond. We settled for a coffee on the balcony and then THE RAIN started. Can you believe it? I`m sure it`s following us!
The sun has finnaly arrive with us, 28C being the highest temperature as yet.
As we left Picton to drive south the scenery changed and the temperature rose. We left the green lush huge forests with their fern trees, palms and flax plants to pass through much starker scenery dominated by rugged mountians away from the sea. The Pacific had taken on a tourquoise colour which contrasted the grey mountain ranges. The small hills along the roadside had become yellow and devoid of trees. Covered in yellowed grass they put another colour into the lndscape.
Vineyards and acres of vines covered the roadside and gentle hills in the Blenheim areas. This is the heart of the wine industry of South Island so we visited a winery in Kiakoura and had an individual tour through the cellars, followed by 8 different wines, (hic) white red and liquor all made in this small winery by the sea. Needless to say we bought a selection of bottles to remeber the experience.
Kiakoura is the marine animal `capital` in the south island. Whale Watch is the main operator and we went out in a catamaran (2 metre swells running) to see whales .They are amazing creatures. We saw two in separate sightings. The smoke cloud you look for on the horizon (the effect of the water spout when they surface) and then the boats rush to the area. The whales are only on the surface for about 10 minutes so speed is essential, then everyone watches for the tail as they gently arch their backs to glide down to the deep once again. These were Sperm Whales - third largest - and can dive to an incredible 3000m. As we were coming back to the marina we encoutered a pod of about 100 dusky dolphins, really acrobatic, throwing themselves out of the water in front of us. The most active dolphins we have ever seen.
Seals also abound. You can see them from the main highway (which we did before reaching the town) and there are two seal colonies on the penninsula. We walked to two of the lookout points for scenery and exercise and also on to the rocky foreshore to get close to the fur seals, close being , the rock infront of you.
We went from 26C to 11C, from sunbathing on the beach to cold and clammy rain, on our drive from Kaikoura to lake Tekapo. We felt the change as well as saw it as soon as we got out of the car. We left the blue pacific ocean with gentle hills to wind through flat areas of green vineyards, then large areas of parched yellowed grassland with smooth hills to finally pass through fir tree lined areas dominated by grey mountain ranges. The most amazing aspect was the wild mountain Lupins which lined the roads and streams.They were a riot of colours, pink, purple, blue, red, yellow and all shades between, and a wonderful sight throughout the whole of the area.
The lakes which lie between the mountains are all a deep tourquoise from the glacial ice grinding the rocks into powder which is then suspended in the water which forms them. We were at lake Tekapo and from our window woke to the Lupins, lake and mountains each morning. We arrived in drizzle and mist covering the far mountains but it was a different view that greeted us that first morning as the mists lifted and the Southern Alps were revealed in the snow capped splendor.
The scenary of Mount Cook and the surrounding montains and lakes is the most magnificent that we have seen in the world (so far) it is breathtaking. Alone on a beach alongside a turquiose lake looking at a distant snow capped range does have something to recommend it.
However, try as we might, we were not able to see the night sky from the Observatory as the high level cloud came in each night to obliterate the southern stars. We did walk up the Tasmin valley to the Glacier at the top. Some of the glacier had broken away into small icebergs. The glacier is a dirty grey colour due to all the dust, debris and stones collected on its surface, so not very picturesque, but the litle icebergs range from black, grey, white, striped and some melting areas a pale blue.
We paddled in the run-off stream, cold is not the word, 2 seconds and our feet were blue but it had to be done, we were there....
This is the last area to visit on our New Zealand tour and the furthest South we have ever travelled.
Dunedin is a large city lying along a very large shallow harbour bounded by a 30 kilometer long peninsular, the Otago peninsular.
At the far tip is a small Royal Albatross breeding colony. This time of year the adults are sitting on the single egg, the young will hatch in January. Male and female sharing the task but not swopping of partners while we were viewing. We had seen Albatross on the wing over the waves while Whale watching off Kaikoura in the North, very graceful sight hugging the waves and cruising with the wind on their 3 meter wing span. Slightly further along Otago the rare yellowed eyed penguin is seen coming ashore. Fur seal colonies also line the coast and many different species of sea birds use the cliff faces to nest.
Dunedin and Otago are famous for sheep and gold. The 1800`s gold rush brought most of the original settlers to the area from all parts of the UK and also chinese.
The Teirai Gorge railway was built to service the sheep stations from the central Otago area and sorrounding hills. The part that sill runs meanders through a steep gorge which to this day has no road connection and thus the trout in the river live to a ripe old age as no-one can get there to fish. It also shows the sheer skill and determination of the men who designed and built the railway through and around the sheer rock faces of the gorge.
There are many museums, a castle even a `ststely home`( this from the first settlers 1850 ish but we enjoyed the cabury`s chocholate factory, yes, full tours and goodies. Our excuse was, it was raining and we had to do something under cover.
The steepest street in the world, Baldwin street is also found in Dunedin, we went and saw it , photographed it but did not climb it, too steep!!
We only scratched the surface of this area and too soo n ahd to start the run back to Christchurch and the flight to OZ
After an early morning flight (06.15am) from New Zealand, we arrived in Melbourne in a thunder and lightning storm! Sue picked us up from the airport. It was so lovely to see her.
A 45 minute drive brought us to Torquay, a surfing holiday town, where Sue and Rob have an amazing house. Their home is a large two story holiday home, 1 kitchen, 3 bedrooms, 2 lounges, 2 bathrooms, 2 balconies and lots of outside space. Really two separate floors, all open plan with lots of space inside. You can see the sea in the distance from the front balcony, and we were soon walking on the beach. Long yellow sandy beach with beautiful blue water and the surf rolling in. There are 4 parts to this beach, surfing, dog walking , swimming and nudist. All along this coast are surf beaches one after another as this area forms the start of the Great Ocean Road.
Our first lunch also introduced us to Australian flies. Flies are the main bane of every one. They are there when you walk on the beach, covering your head and face,sit to have a cool beer or eat food in a cafe , if you are near the doors or windows. A pity, but you try to live with them. We understand now why we were told of having to have fly nets to cover our heads and hats when we go to Alice Springs and Ayres Rock where there are even more flies.Other friends arrived for the holidays period and walks on the beach , board and word games, pleanty of food and drink,drives along the coast and more walking,has been the order of each day. Two days in Melbourne with an evening show is palnned for later this week
The weather up until today (Christmas day) has been very changable with a lot of persistant rain, unusual but the area is in a drought so the farmers are pleased if not the tourists. Christmas day was the start of the sun again,(the BBC says so). We sat outside while lunch was cooking, soaking up the sun, Rob also put prawns on the BBQ for our prawn and melon starter.We had the traditional roast and all trimmings then out for the last rays of the sun and a final evening walk before the christmas evening charades began.
Christmas present opening was a new experince with Sue and Ali playing Santa and the sun streaming into the room. We all enjoyed this, sat on the floor and around the tree. Soon we were surrounded by mountains of discarded paper. Very lucky group of people and it brought us thoughts of family and friends.
Hilarious times with games played and not too much alcohol drunk. Great fun having seven people for the Christmas period.
Boxing day was a quite fun beach day. We went body boarding, me included. I was the first to catch a good wave and crash fully into the beach! ball games and alittle sun bathing and reading until the sun drove us in.We came back for a BBQ, great weather, sun streaming company great. More games,laughter and fun. Just what hloidays are all about.
The day after Boxing day we drove along the Great Ocean road to the 12 Apostles. These are a series of large limestone rock formations which have been formed from weathering of the rocky coast line. They are an amazing sight. The blues of the sea and sky with the yellow orange rocks sandwiched between. The white foam from the crashing waves breaking around giving another dimension.
Loads of people ,cars and buses were there plus the OZ flies.Helicopters flying up and down the coastline giving arial views all adding to the spectacle. The drive took us all day to complete with a lunch stop half way at Appollo Bay. Another typical sandy bay for swimming sailing or surfing. The whole of the coast line is beautiful.No wonder the name Great Ocean road.
Each morning the boys and Sue (not David) have been up away and surfing before we start the days activites, fit or what.
Melbourne,Theatre and city 2 days to come.
We spent two days in Melbourne (Ali, Ani, Sue, Rob, Tom and David) to see the sights and take in a show. The show, at the Regent theatre was Priscilla Queen of the Desert an Australian story based on three drag queens traveling from Sydeny to Alice Springs to put on a show; and their adventures on the way. Hilarious to see. Costumes and staging was excellent, very imaginative and colourful to say the least. Standing ovation from the audience at then end. We all really enjoyed it.
Our hotel was central to the city so we could walk everywhere. There is also a free circular tram which you can hop on and off, and takes you around the centre of the city. A running commentary is given of the main sights and attractions you can visit as you go around the loop. This we did.
We went up the Skytower, 300 metres, and had a panoramic veiw of Melbourne. It was so clear we could see all the urban sprawl for miles. One man even had binoculars and was trying to read the Boxing Day test match scores as the cricket ground was easily visible from that height.
The temperature hit the 40C mark on the second day and we had thought it was hot in the mid 30`s the first day. When we left the theatre at 11.00pm that first night, we went to the Casino and were walking through the brightly lit city in dresses and shirts, great feeling, so warm. The next day we were looking for air conditioning and shade, too hot.
The casino was another world; so alive at 11.00pm, and at 1.00am we were still there having a drink and a snack and soaking up the atmosphere, with the punters still betting. Amazing the money which must be lost as there were a number of floors all with gaming machines and great variety of tables for poker, roulette, black jack and so on; anything you could imagine. The tables at different stake levels for different clients.
David and I took a river cruise the next day on one of the original ferry boats which had worked the jarra river in the 30`s. Commentary on the old and new, which gave us another side to Melbourne.
What can you say about central Australia. It`s a different world.
As we flew from Melbourne we were over vast tracks of uninhabited land. Dried rivers with their many tributaries were visible as the main feature from the air, clay pans and vast salt lakes put great white / grey colour into the reddish landscape. Roads were non existent, only a few dust tracks were visible mainly in dead straight lines for miles. As we neared Alice Springs we began to see the various ranges which are scattered through this territory. You fly in through a gap in one of these ranges to Land at Alice Springs airport.
The first thing that hits you is the heat. The 4 days we were in the area the temperature varied 40C to 45C in the heat of the day. Out in the desert areas it was higher than that, 50C quoted by one of our guides as rock temperature. We constantly drank litres of water.The wind was also hot and air conditioned coaches, buildings and shade the order of the day.The flies are the other issue and we had bought fly nets which we used each day attached to our hats which never left our heads when out of the coaches or buildings.We looked like bee keepers.
Our tour of Alice Springs (just after landing) took in the School of the Air, Royal Flying Doctors, Anzac Hill, the original telegraph station, which gave rise to Alice and a Reptile centre (including how to deal with snakes if you meet one). The need for Flying Doctor and School of the Air was apparent from the distances between habitation hundreds to thousands of kilometers between homesteads and sheep stations. Alice is literally an island town in a vast semi arid desert miles from any where.
We joined our tour the next morning at 07.15am to drive to Ayres Rock resort four hour drive (over 400 kilometers). In the afternoon we drove to The Olgas a rock range in the desert made up of 32 rounded rock formations, where we did a gorge walk and a dry creek walk. The Ridge walked was deemed too hot to attempt as a very steep start. We were supplied with canteens of water for our short 1 hour walks and used it all. This walk was followed by sunset over the Olgas and a BBQ dinner. Not a spectacular sun set but the BBQ was very good. We have now eaten Camel, Emu, Kangaroo and Baramundi (fish).
The next day was a 04.05am start as was the following day, we were getting very tired to say the least, exhausted in fact. day two was a three hour drive to Kings Canyon, seeing sunrise on the way, again walking around the base of the canyon as the heat was too much for any of the other activities, a disappointment. and thus a Avery long day. David squeezed in a helicopter flight back over Kings Canyon which gave another dimension to the day
The third early morning was for sunrise at Uluru (Ayres rock) and for me the climb and for David a cultural tour. The sun rise allowed us to see the colour changing on the face of the rock, but I think that sunset may have been more spectacular.
The climb was open that morning, it had been closed the day before and the rangers were closing it at 08.00am that day due to the temperatures. But I was determined to do the climb. I was on my own and when I got to the start of the climb and saw the steepness on the rock face and distance (only 384 meters but straight up!) I did waiver a bit. There is a chain which starts about 80 meters up the rock face which you can use to pull yourself up with, but you have to get there first. This first part of the climb is called `chicken rock`, as many people do not get past this point. Once up to this point I think I was too worried about how I would get back down (I had already been on my hands and knees) that I decided to grab the chain and continue and sort that bit out later. Hence did get to the top. Phew! Took one hour to the top and 30 mins to get back down. Views were amazing, you could see the Olgas, Kings Canyon and vast tracts of desert in all directions. The road like a little thread of cotton far below.
I was very pleased with myself. I came down backwards hand over hand on the chain and then on my bottom, two feet and one hand until I felt I could stand. Never so glad to touch flat red earth again.
On our return from this trip we were taken to the Airport to fly to Cains. Although a wonderful experience, we did find all those early mornings with the heart thrown in hard.
We have moved from dry arid semi desert to the humid tropical heat of Cairns. The rainy season is here and so are we. While I type it is still pouring, remind sme of home but this is WARM heat and rain.
The first day we visited a rain forest wild life park just a short drive outside Cairns. I saw my first live Kangaroo and held a Koala( picture to prove it). We also went on an amphibious vehicle ride through the forest and through a swap area. Hugh tree ferns,leaner`s, and many other tropical plants, reptiles, termite mounts and the insects. The whole thing was so lush and green, such a comparison to the semi arid red desert we had left the day before.Then into the wild life area where I met my Koala.
later that day we walked the esplanade where the sea water lagoon for swimming is situated. this is one of the main areas of Cairns popular with all ages and packed with people, just a short walk from all the shops and restaurants.We did not partake of the water at this time.
The next day we spent a fantastic whole day on the barrier reef and snorkeled while the rain fell on our backs instead of the sun,s rays, we had been expecting.However the reef lived up to it`s reputation even in the rain. Many coloured corals of all shapes and sizes. Myriads of fish, small and large chased each other around, through and over the corals. The only thing missing was the sun which would have added a brightness to all the colour. Reef sharks, turtles and squid were part of our viewing plus hugh black sea cucumbers lining the sandy floor between the reefs. I managed to touch the shell of one of the turtles, it felt dry and hard. Small sting rays were partly camouflaged in the sandy bottom to add to the tally. We all had to wear stinger suits or wet suits either for buoyancy or for the protection against jelly fish which can be lethal in this area at this time of the year. We did not see any for which I was very glad.We visited two different reef sites and could have had up to two hours diving or snorkeling at each but it is a tiring sport and 40 minutes was enough for me at each one. A superb experience that every one should do if they pass this way
We leave here tomorrow for the Whitsunday Islands and 3 days of sailing in a ketch. We hope that we leave the rain behind and have the sun for our island idyllic sailing adventure. will let you know the out come.
The Whitsunday Islands are 500Km South of Cairns but still in the tropical Queensland belt. Airlie Beach is the small town from which we started our cruise. We had booked three days on Waltzing Matilda (really her name). She is a Ketch (2 masts) and sleeps 16, 2 crew and 14 passengers. To our surprise we were the only UK couple, one Australian pair and the rest were young Germans. However the mix worked well. Paul the cook and Wayne the skipper were really fun, very informative on the area, wild life and music, which played all day and evening from speakers hidden above in the boom. Too much for David and I but we soon accepted it as part of the back ground.
Our days were a mixture of eating, talking, snorkeling and lounging on the deck absorbing the whole atmosphere and relaxing. This is the way I think life should be totally at peace with the elements. The sun was a force to be reckoned with on the water and again shade, hats and sun block were imperative.
The life below the surface in the reefs is just like Cairns but the fish actually come to the boat (we think to get shade) as you stop and anchor and thus you get into the water amongst them. Really thrilling. Again we saw reef sharks and sting rays but the visibility was not quite as good as Cairns. Jellyfish too, though not the letal variety, and we were only allowed into the water if we were dressed head to foot in stinger suites.
Dolphins came to play in the water near the boat a few times and sea eagles flew over our heads. We were so lucky with the range of wild life we saw. The sunsets from the boat over the surrounding islands were spectacular and well photographed.
There are 74 Whitsunday Islands in total, some large and inhabited, such as Hamilton and Hook but many are tiny little projections above the clear blue water which surrounds all the islands. It was here on Whitsunday Island, one of the largest, that we were dropped off to walk on the pure white sands which surrounds it and take a walk to see the many reefs from the look out point. The sight was amazing. The air so hot you have to seek shade and hide under your hat and the shimmering water and reflective white sands draw you to `step in and swim`.
To swim we had to don the proverbial stinger suit, clinging black Lycra, including hood, to protect us from the `stingers`. Box jellyfish and the very small 1-2cm transparent Irikanji.This is no fashion show especially with my body in amongst the toned young back packers but really life preserving. These little darlings kill if they sting you. I do have a picture to show the in-fashion swim wear.
Our three days left us with many fond memories, great tans and time to move further down the Queensland coast towards Brisbane.
Leaving the Whitsundays we started to encounter rain which followed us down the coast for the next few days. We found out later, through the TV news, that Cairns, Airlie Beach and other towns we had past through had been flooded, roads closed, homes and properties damaged. What a different experience we would have had had we been a few days later in these areas.
The scenary was disapointing along this coastal area as we did not see the sea. Miles and mlies of sugar cane fields gave rise to flat fields full of cows as we entered beef territory.
Rockhampton is beef capital of Queensland and akin to Texas. Hugh plastic cows are mounted on top of various buildings and even on the final roundabout as you leave the town wishing you `farewell from Rockhampton` on a plaque under a huge bull statue. Steaks are the food and the Fitzroy river dominates and divides the town. Everything closes on Saturday lunch time and does not open again until Monday morning. Not a place to tarry long.
We did take diversions from the main roads out to coastal towns,1770 (town) being one, where Captain Cooke landed, but the drizzle did not allow us to appreciate the full beauty of the places. At Hervey Bay we could not even see the fabled Fraser island where everyone goes to drive the sand island in 4x4`s. All we saw was sheeting rain. So on we went, only stopping for overnight motel beds and a little disappointed we could not get more from the drive.
And so we arrived in Brisbane; in the rain.
This is a city that is divided by the river, the main part of the city straddles a large ox bow bend in the river.The river is still used as one of the main transport networks for commuters and tourists alike with many different ferry types plying their trade. We traveled via the City Cat which picks you up from the suburbs and drops you in the city or beyond.The high rise city center is there but not as vast or as tall as other cities and no sky dome or tower to climb.The city is not focused on tourist attractions. It is a working city.
The North bank area is the main shopping area, Botanical gardens,main city commerce buildings and the South, Maritime museum ,University buildings and the suburban homes. There is not the bustle and feeling of energy and life like London, Singapore or Sydney until you sit of an evening, outside, with a beer or wine glass in your hand in the main shopping mall as the Brisbanians leave work and then sit with a drink before heading off home.Then the place feels more alive.
Having only a day to see the city we could do no more than scratch the surface ,wander the museums,gardens and streets. We would have liked to visit the Glass mountains which we saw from the road on our drive into the city ( about an hours drive away)and the Steve Irwin Zoo,(near the base of the mountains) but time did not allow.
Sydney is our last Australian city and then home ward via Hong Kong
This is a vibrant, lively city and our hotel is in the heart of it. Darling Harbour, Opera House, Harbour bridge and The Rocks are all within walking distance. It has rained for two days continuously but today, our last day the sun has finally come out. The rain has not stopped our explorations, just made us damp. We went to the Opera: Rossini`s Cinderella, marvelous from me boring from David. The auditorium is so small compared with the vast area of the building, seating only 1500. The outside is amazing with its arches and domes. We also saw it from the water and from this aspect you get the best appreciation of the shape and design.The harbour bridge is now covered with small groups of people walking over the span, they look like little ants from the water or land below. We did not do this but chose the sky tower for the whole panorama of Sydney and its vast harbour and inlets.
Darling Harbour is the main area for tourist attractions. Maritime museum with it`s `O` class submarine, Full sailing replica of Cook`s Endeavor and a 1959 destroyer, Vampire. This aspect kept David enthralled for one whole wet day. I did enjoy this as well but I loved the aquarium with the shark walkway being really spectacular, you felt as though you could actually touch them through the glass walls and ceilings.
We walked to the Rocks area, which is situated to the side and below Sydney harbour bridge. This is one of the areas for the rich and famous, well out of our league. An open air craft market takes place on weekends and the air brush painting demonstrations were fantastic. You had to wait 3 hours for the drying time if you wanted to buy any, but well worth it. The crafts were very unusual not the normal market Fayre, glass, fabrics,wooden items and very varied. Wish I had a suitcase just for such items, but not to be.
The last day was finally dry, the two continuous days of rain unusual, and we made the most of wandering the nooks and crannies of the city. It is one of the place to which we would both like to return.
We did visit Bondi beach but with friends of Sue and Rob who took us for a fantastic Pizza in a small family run restaurant which is their favorite place, this is where local knowledge comes in we would never have found it. They live just north of Botany Bay. Really good atmosphere. The beach is much smaller than we thought but good surf running even at night. Still no time to try and we would only have made the surfers jealous with our skills :-)
Time for the final move and we left Sydney for Hong Kong , in the rain yet again
This is so different from any of the places we have been so far this trip, the exception possibly being Singapore. Hong Kong does seem to have more sky scrapers per meter as the flat area of the island for building is very small. 88 stories is the tallest to date but a 108 story building is under construction as part of the continued water front development. More shopping plazas, restaurants and apartments is the the aim. The area occupied by the old airport site is still undeveloped, and also lines the water front, so what will go there?
We landed in the evening so did not get a good view of the Island or main land. When we woke and looked out of the hotel window (floor 22) I thought it was a dull sky but it is the pollution haze which prevent you seeing from Hong Kong Island clearly over to the main land and vise versa. A pity as when we were at `The Peak` on the Island, we did not have the clear and spectacular sea ward views, or views of the main land and Island below I had expected. It was still spectacular due to all the high rise.It must have been really beautiful in the early days of colonization.with less building and clean air.
The tram to the peak, runs on almost vertical track for approx two thirds of it`s length. The floor of the cable car is deliberately stepped to prevent standing passengers slipping backwards on these stretches. This ride is an experience in it`s self and should be taken if you visit. I had expected a tree lined or grassy top but instead more shopping malls,and houses( only for the very very rich) at the top. Still coffee was welcome at the top.
Walking through the streets between all the high rise buildings, turning into small side streets and walking through the tightly packed stalls of the street markets offers superb new visual experiences and attack on all the senses. Colours are vibrant, particularly the lights at night. and smells from the small food stalls ,which litter the main and side streets, is amazing. Often you do not have a clue what the food is but people are stopping , buying and eating. We just looked, too afraid to try.
We did the `Tours` , Harbour at night, Sampan ride,Stanley Market, The Peak, Jewelry factory, Temple, Night Market. Each gave a different insight into Hong Kong but were very Tourist bias.
We had a meal on the 62nd floor ,in a revolving restaurant (revolving once every hour thus we saw all of the area and main land from this height ) as part of our harbour by night tour. We also saw the nightly light laser show across the harbour from the restaurant.
The time we spent our selves going on public transport, riding the Star ferry from the Island to the main land of Kowloon, entering the underground system and successfully getting to our destination were the big successes and experiences. The majority of time ours were the only European faces in the area.
David was also reminiscing, having been here 25 years ago with work and noting the differences, mainly lack of Rickshaw drivers on the fore shore and sampan`s in the harbour.
The three days here have been fun and full of different and new experiences, The weather was dry and the sun shone but as we came back to the hotel today to pack to leave, the rain has started.
So we end our two month holiday as we began in Newport with rain.
The camera and video are full of sights, sounds and pictures and our heads are full of memories. When I get home my first job will be to put the pictures with the words so that the places and events I have described will be visual for all to see and enjoy.
and all I can finally say is "where has the time gone?". .
Well we have been back a week. Jet lag has finally disappeared and we are firing on all cylinders.
Photographs have still to be uploaded for all the blog areas and should be finished next week . It all takes so much time but great memories as I do this task.
We have now let our berth in Plymouth from the 1st of April, so will be on a visitors pontoon until we finally move out on our French Odyssey.
Our `Peage` ( permit to sail in French waters) has been purchased so we can now travel on the French canals. Navicartes, the French canal maps, are being purchased.
The house, we have agreed will be rented from the 1st of May( a little leeway there). Scary. No going back now. We still hope to up anchor in April sometime, weather permitting.
David has still work to do on the Engine management system as well as some wood work.
We both have work to do within the house to clear it all for renting but it is a good opportunity for a clear out any way as we have been here over 11 years.
French conversation and working through `Break through French` has now become a regular morning session straight after breakfast. David has even more grey hair now as he battles with my inability to fully remember what we did yesterday. Whoops never was too great at languages but still on we go.
We are very nearly ready for the off.
The boat is now lying lower in the water with all the gear we have put aboard, but still we are finding other items we feel we cannot `do without`.I have literally run out of space to stow any thing else and wonder where we will fit.
The Engine management system is now complete . David can now sit in the cock pit and happily tell the water inlet temperature, out let temperature , number of engine revs, oil pressure, engine hours and alarms set up in case of all sorts of things that may happen as we motor along the canals.He is even taking some electronic bits with him, but I don`t know what else he could possibly do.
The mast support frame has been erected (twice),ready for demasting in Honfleur.
Fender boards to protect us from canal banks and lock walls bought and a gang plank purchased(best B&Q plank) to allow us on and off.
The sad thing is leaving behind everybody especially Nia and Sian who are both expecting babies in August and July respectively. I am already planning my return in August to see Grandchildren.
We also know where we will over winter, South of Spain, a little place called L`Azohia, below Cartegena. The boat we have yet to organize.
It looks a though we will leave Newport Thursday 3rd or Saturday 5th of April and then hop to Cherbourgh via Dartmouth and Weymouth. Weymouth being the shortest route across to France for us.
If these winds keep up their strength however we will not be leaving Plymouth.
The time to close the front door of the house and board the boat has finaly arrived. We have never worked so hard on any project before.There have been moments when we have asked ourselves are we sane or mad?. The answer is always the same we want to sail our boati n the Med so off we go and yes we are mad in some ways. Going to live on a 10 metre by 3 metre boat. Who will crack first David or me. David has already bought himselves noise cancelling heads phones, what does that suggest I wonder?
The first part of our route is planned to cross from Weymouth to Cherbourg via Dartmouth but after that we will plod along the Normandy coast to Honfleur where we will have the mast taken down, ready for the low bridges of the canals. Then it`s a dash up the Seine to Rouen which has to be done before the tide turns. Paris in the springtime, before travelling on southward against the flow of the river. We travel from the Seine to another river, the Yonne, then into the Canal de Bourgogne. This we leave near Dijon to enter the Soane and then the Rhone and so down south to the coast at Sete or Port St Louis. I would love to be able to list the towns we`re going through, or even the major cities, but without a map I`m lost and they`re all packed - next time, I promise.
So, an empty echoing house, a sunny spring day, the fountain playing noisily and the buds popping on the trees. Nothing left here to eat, no cutlery, no plates, an empty freezer, washed carpets, bits of paintwork finaly touched up after months of wanting, and all for someone else to enjoy. The familiar sounds of crows nesting in the trees and the chimney, and we`re leaving tomorrow. A strange feeling!
The first stage to Dartmouth began with beautiful blue Sky`s, little wind and slight seas after the day before which brought snow showers and wind to Britain.
It was however 1.4C when we got up and we did wonder if it was a wise move to set off but we have.As we left Plymouth Sound we could see a thunder storm heading our way but it turned into Plymouth and we sailed on away from it in the sunshine. It was great to be on the move but no dolphins or any other wild life came to say hello.
We did sail for about an hour but we eventually disappeared inside to steer as it was too cold to remain on deck for too long. Thank heaven for our internally steering position, so we can remain warm and cozy on passage.The seas remained kind and not too lumpy.
As we approached Dartmouth we caught the end of a shower over the coast but all in all a good first outing for us and the boat. We estimated arrival for 18.00 hours and were sitting in the berth allocated by 18.04 Dvaid drinking hot Chocolate.me something stronger.
Showers, clean warm cloths and a trip by ferry to a good Bistro in the main town concluded this first step. We are now really on our way.
We left Dartmouth for Weymouth on 10th April. As our passage took us past Portland our planning had to be meticulous.
There is a tidal race associated with Portland which has been the death of many ships. Strong currents can carry you onto Portland ledge if you are not far enough off shore or have the timming wrong. We did not want to be a statistic so planned carefully.
The weather was sunny but cold, seas calm so we have a good 9 hour journey. We saw very little traffic,2 container ships and 3 yachts, still very early In the season for travelers like us to be out on the seas.
Weymouth was a welcome sight as evening approached and we booked our passage under the town bridge with the harbour master as we arrived. We negotiated in through the harbour entrance and then waited on a pontoon for the bridge to open.The harbour is still a busy place. RoRo ferries, trawlers,trip boats and local pleasure boats, quite a buzz.
The bridge opens 6 times a day. All traffic is stopped and pedestrians look down on you from above as you pass through.No missiles were thrown at us so we must have past muster. A new experience to hold up the traffic and be the central attraction of the day.
The marina is set in the middle of the town so access to any of the facilities is a short walk. We tried out our black and yellow shopping trolley with a visit to Asdas. I trundled it back to the boat full of water, pop and heavy items. Worked well. So now I have no fear of growing long arms as I carry supplies back to the boat along canal tow paths in France.
We will be leaving in the same way under the bridge but we will have to spend our last night on a town pontoon amid the trawlers and pleasure boats that line the harbour side. The bridge does not open early enough in the morning for us to catch the tide we need to get to Cherbourg in daylight.
Weather permitting Monday 14th will be the day to cross La Manche and we again have our plans made, tidal vectors drawn, a course to steer set and way points put into the computer. We are now raring to go and start the French part of our journey. Will keep you posted.
Well, 14th April dawned clear! Alarm set (05.10am - David not alive at this hour) but we were ready for the off at 06.00am. It was still dark enough for us to have the navigation lights on as we slipped out of the town berth at Weymouth.
We watched the sun come up over the cliffs as we headed out beyond Portland and into La Manche.
The wind, as predicted was gentle, but due to rise as we worked our way across to France. Motor was the order of the day.
I had prepared sandwiches, drinks and soup the night before so all we needed to do was navigate our course.
One other yacth was leaving harbour at the same time and in the end we saw his stern all the way across the channel.
It was so quiet, we saw no wildlife and the main issue was the commercial traffic we encountered in the traffic separation zones mid channel. The channel has specific `lanes` for commercial traffic and we must give priority to this movement. Large container ships are seen as small blobs in the distance which within minutes of sighting become huge actual vessels which we need to avoid. The zones have 2 lanes up and 2 lanes down, with ships following in strict convoy and about 2 miles apart in each direction, thus in reality a 4 lane high way to cross. No flashing green man to stop anyone. This was the scary part.
We managed to duck and dive between the lanes and pop out the other side in one piece much relieved.
We had no tide to help us speed the journey this time, as we were going across the tidal streams. We were also crossing the waves, but the wave height was less than a metre so not too uncomfortable at the start, a little more so as the wind got up about 3 hours from the French coast. We estimated about 12 hours and were tying up at the pontoon at 18.00pm. Not bad eh!
We had promised ourselves champagne when we reached French shores and we kept our promise, very enjoyable(hic)
Cherbourg has a huge sea defence sea wall, punctuated by Nepoleonic forts. You enter either through the West or East channel and once inside another wall separates the main marina from the ferry terminal and the military harbour. Visiting yacths are well catered for, numbers of berths, facilites and all staff speak English if you do not want to try and be native. We are very trying. We had only meant to spend a few days here but a low coming in from the West meant we are here for a week.
The plan to hop along the Normandy coast has now changed to a dash to Le Harve on Tuesday ( was Monday but slipped a day, weather yet again). As Le Harve is 70 miles away it is eqivalent to another Channel crossing (about 10-11hours) but we can use the Spring tides and strong tidal streams that run in the direction we want to go so we can decrease our time at sea (as long as we get it all right when we do the passage plan).
We took the train to Bayeux on Wednesday. Lovely place. Visited the famous tapestry (nearly 1000 years old; amazing), War graves and the catherdral. As it had been at least 12 years since we had been to Bayeux it was almost like the first time. We had not been to the graves before and this felt quite poingant.The numbers of dead and the young ages, a generation gone.
La City de la Mer in Cherbourg has a decomissioned nuclear submarine to crawl over and through, so you can imagine where David spend most of Thursday. To be fair it was very interesting.
We have walked and walked, lived in the Hypermarche, read, studied the weather forcast and generaly chilled, but now time to move on. Disapointing not to be going to St Vaast or other Normandy ports but as they virtualy all dry and tides are not favourable at the moment then the canal start becons.
We have provisionally booked 26th April Saturday for our mast to be taken down in Honfleur. The first few days of May seem ideal to tackle the Rouen tidal run and we have friends we are trying to meet up with to do this first part of the canal treck.
The morning of the 22nd April dawned grey, no rain but a thin watery sun trying to penetrate the haze. The wind had died back compared to yesterday. Visibility was only about 2 miles but we were ready for the off.
The swell was quite big as we passed through the outer wall of the harbour past the East channel fort. The tide would carry us past the head land and into the Sienne bay and then the rougher seas should die away in the bay. Two hours into the passage we were both feeling quite queasy but we were not sick and the seas did die away as predicted (thank goodness).
The visibility remained poor through out the voyage and we had the radar on tracking any other traffic. At one stage a fishing boat appeared out of the mist, straight for us, we took avoiding action and he carried on to disappear into the mist towards the shore not concerned for us at all. As we neared Le Harve we had 12 ships in close formation on the radar and could only see the out line of one, then we realised they were at anchor awaiting the high tide to get into the Tancarville canal phew, relieved. We could now pass by them unscathed.
The calculations we had done using the spring tides worked and we did the 73.7miles in 10 hours, amazing as this could have been up to 14 hours with no tide help.
In miles we have completed another yet ‘channel crossing’on this leg.
In total we have travel 242 mile to get within 7 mile of Honfleur and the Sienne entrance.
A great surprise went we entered the marina and were moving into our chosen berth. Two people came running, off an already moored boat, to catch our line. It was Teresa and Eddie who we met at last Southampton boat show by chance. They were planning the same voyage at the same time and we had been in email contact, never met them since and there they were. A great welcome. We will travel the first part to Rouen with them and both boats will demast in Honfleur.
Le Harve is a new city, rebuilt after the devastation of the war and almost all of concrete. It has wide pedestrian walkways, cherry trees are in full bloom and the sun came out as we did our first exploration thus making it feels a little like Paris. The 2kms of beach and in land water basins soon made you realise it is a very different place.
We visited the Impressionist museum reputed to be the second best in France after Paris ( Musee Malraux) It was very good and we saw the work of a number of artists we were not familiar with. This was all set in a very modern open glass and concrete building.
Coffee, in one of the squares, watching the world go by was possible due to the sun remaining out for the first time since we have been away. Very pleasant and hopefully lots more of this to come. The reason for retirement
Booked in now to demast on Monday 28th.in Honfleur This changed from Saturday 26th due to a fuel leak in our diesel engine which looked terminal at one stage. Diesel running into the bilge caused havoc. David managed to make a new screw by adapting one from within his vast screw box and assortment of tools, taps and dyes he had brought with us. I will never again complain about all the ‘bits’ he brought. The day saved yet again by his skills.
The Rouen run will take place some time at the beginning of May. We have to wait for the right tide and day light as it has to be completed in a single tide in one day the passage to Rouen. These are the rules of the canal for sailing yacths! Cannot wait to be off on that leg. Lets hope the sun keeps shinning while we wait and no more unexpected ‘emergencies’
Honfleur is a beautiful old harbour which has retained it`s antique charm.Tall houses with uneven rooves and tiny gabled windows, line the harbour. The variety of colours of the cafe and restaurant umbrellas which line the quayside add to the charm. People are everywhere and the whole place buzzes with noise and life.
We actually sailed from le Harve to the Rouen Chenal, which leads to the entrance lock to Honfleur. The last sail, possibly for a year, until next season. This was Davids last request before we had the mast taken down.
Our first lock (of the whole trip) was into the Honfleur bassin.
The lock was 40meters in length and had 4 floating bollards. We missed the first attempt to catch a bollard but manged second time. The walls were alive with barnacles, very interesting to see but deadly to sides of boats and fender covers. We were the only boat in the lock and waited nervously for the water to rush in as the lock gates closed. No such thing, we were at the top of the tide and when the gates opened to let us through the water levels were equal so we just slid out .
From this lock you have to pass through swing or lifting bridges. The Vieux Bassin, our destination into the town harbour was guarded by a lifting bridge. Traffic stopped, people stopped and all looked down on us from the barriers, we were like fish in a bowl. We headed for the visitors mooring area on the west side of the quay. Our ropes were taken by the local sailing club members who were out in force cleaning up the pontoons and even the walls. It is a bank holiday next Thursday (1st May) and the real start of their season, so everyone was making the place spick and span. No showers open until Monday or ability to pay for the berth, but we were told make yourselves comfortable, very hospitable.
The gold fish scenario continued as we were directly beneath all the restaurants and cafes on that side of the harbour wall. We could live with this as we were right in the center of everything.
We spent two days and night there before moving on through three bridges to arrive at Bassin Carnot where we were to be demasted.
Demasting was an experience that left us dazed at the end, not really appreciating what had happened until the following morning when we had to sort out all the jumble of ropes, wires, mast, stays and everything that at one time went up into the sky and was now scattered all along or just above the deck. A 30 ton cranes lifts off the mast and you have to guide it into the wooden framework that has been made back home. It all looks big and strong on dry land, but when the 200Kgm mast is falling into place you begin to worry and wonder, will it all stay in place and support the weight?
As all is still in place 24 hours later we are hopeful that all calculations were correct.
We had been moored against the steps in a wall that towered above us for three to four meters. The way up or down was by a metal ladder recessed into the old stone quay wall. Heights not being my thing this was not a good experience. However needs must and we were soon whizzing up and down (my whiz being slower than David`s).
We are staying in the Bassin Carnot until the tides are right to take full advantage of the tidal Sienne and be `whooshed` to Rouen. (Quite primitive but we do have water and electricity but go into town for showers at the yacht club).
Pleasure boats have to do the 62 Mile stretch in daylight in one day, and thus 4th or 5th May seem to have the right conditions for our dash. Our friends, Eddie and Teresa, are joining us for this dash, so good to have another boat along in case of problems.
This is our last day in Honfleur before we enter the river Seine.
The tide is now right to help push us the 60 plus miles to Rouen.
We will leave the bassin Carnot (at 5pm this evening),where we had the mast taken down, and hang on the Avant bassin wall over night. This is outside the bridges of Honfleur and allows us to get the early lock just after low water out into the Seine.
We have been able to see the size of some of the river commercial traffic which uses the Seine, as we have walked along the estuary sea wall. The cruise boats, approx 70meters in length( 10 times us ) are small compared to the containers ships which ply their trade to Rouen and Paris.We have heard that their wash can push little boats onto the banks if care is not taken. We will be very vigilant you can be sure.
Only 1376 kilometers or 818 miles and 257 locks to Port St Louis at the Med end and lock number one is tomorrow 5th May at Honfleur.We have already gone through this one to get into Honfleur so not sure whether to count it twice.
The tidal affect in the Seine is lost after we pass through the first lock after Rouen at Amfreville.Once past Paris the very large commercial traffic does ease and as we are disappearing into the smaller canal sections so it should be more peaceful.We hope
Early rise to-day, alarm for 6.30am as we had to catch the 7.30am lock out into the Seine. This was the big leg, to get to Rouen on the one tide. The open cavernous 40 meter long lock beckoned us as we slipped the ropes from the Avant basin wall situated just outside. This lock, we had come through into Honfleur from Le Harve, now held no secrets for us. We hooked onto the floating bollards straight away and dropped silently down as the water drained out to lower us into the Seine. The dropping water uncovered crabs and mud covered barnacle on the lock walls as well as lots of thin green filamentous algae. Not a nice sight at 7.30 in the morning
The Seine looked hugh, empty and vast as we slid out amongst the mud banks outside the lock (only 0.2 metres on the depths gauge) and into the main stream.
We soon began to relax as the large commercial traffic we had been promised did not arrive. Horror stories of their wash swamping you had been many but we only encountered one barge and one floating hotel. Do not know where they all went that day. The whole journey was very quiet and calm except for all the small ferries which continually move between the two banks of the Seine and through out the whole length of the river. The spring tides whipped us along, 10.5 knots over the ground when we normally do 5-6 knots so doubling our speed . We thus covered our 112 Kilometres or 60 miles in 7.5 hours not our estimated 10.
The initial stretch of river was slightly commercial at Tankerville, but very soon tree lined flat alluvial plains appeared which eventually developed into small rocky outcrops like small cliffs. Villages nestled beneath the crags along the tree lined banks. The scenery was really lovely. The villages all had big churches whose spires greeted you before you saw the rest of the area. Some of the houses were thatched and many of those seemed to have flowers and grass growing out of the roof ridges. We did not know what to photograph and what not. This is what we came for and did not think to find it so early along the banks of the Seine. This continued with little variation for about 100 kilometres but as we neared the outskirts of Rouen this scenery changed dramatically.
Hugh industrial developments lined both sides of the riverbanks Vast container shipping and storage areas, massive cranes, LPG and Oil storage tanks, long jetties pushing into the river and massive pontoons with men working, looking like little ants as they beavered away. Massive coils on drums, grain silo’s and giant ships to transport all of these commodities appeared and covered the river sides and spread inland. The noise, dust and smell of it all was unbelievable. We were dwarfed by the everything around, thank goodness none of the barges and container ships were on the move as we passed through.
This ended as abruptly as it began and we were into Rouen city area. The cathedral dominated the sky line from where ever you looked. The tall filigree spires pointing high up into the air, tree lined walk ways hugged the banks and offices, shops and houses had given way to the industrial landscape. Picturesque areas for the big cruise boats to tie up in the city lined with Lilac trees in bloom to welcome the tourists were right in the city heart. We had to motor around the ILE Lacroix to find the Halt Plaisance de Rouen, not for us the main city mooring site.
A long pontoon greeted us on the bank the other side of the Isle below a grassed area where boats were out of the water and houses sat beyond the fence of the plaisance. A small dark Manuel type character, who was the Capitanerie, took our lines. We were the first visitors of the season and he had to clear the dog, piled up plastic chairs, a lawn mower and various other items for us to get into his ‘office ’and for his desk to become visible. He still had the 2006-07 price list up, so that was our charge basis plus the showers, water and electricity were all included. Welcome to Rouen.
Rouen Les Anderlys and Veron 6th May- 12 May
The stops we have made to date are too numerous to mention all of them but Rouen, Les Anderlys and Vernon stand out.
These are three very contrasting places. Rouen a city, Les Anderlys a village, Veron a town, all stops along the Seine but each gave us surprises and different perspectives of French life.
Rouen know to us from Monet’s painting of Rouen Cathedral is a typical city business and pleasure side by side with the rush and bustle of a city.
The Cathedral and the Musee de Beaux Arts were our main objectives but the number of timbered fascia buildings, monuments, small quaint narrow streets and overhanging gabled buildings was a surprise. WE had read that this city was badly damaged in the war but there seems no signs now.
The Cathedral has been renovated since the bombing destruction of 1944 and tornado of 1999 It is an awe inspiring building the filigree, statues, columns and intricate arches have to be seen to be appreciated. The famous Monet painting of the main facade is as we had seen in the paintings so no disappointment there.
We also went to see Joan of Arc Church a very modern 20th century construction with stained glass windows from a 16th century church demolished by air raids in 1944.Very Light airy and modern but still a feel of a church. Outside the ruined base walls of the original church as still visible and the cross of the new church is separated from the building but on the spot where Joan was burnt at the stake in 1471.
The surprise of this city was the clock of Rouen. The Gros Horloge is one of the original main streets of Rouen and there has been a clock there since 1170. The clock sits within an arch of the building which crosses the street. You walk beneath it and the colourful clock has a face either side of the arch. The numbers on the dial are separated from the clock face and used to go around the hands. We were able to go up the belfry tower(162 steps) and see the working of the clock and the panorama of the city and the Seine twisting through the city below. The original bells, which used to toll twice a day, are still in the belfry. The clock face also showed a different picture each day of the week on the bottom segment of the face, thus the populous knew which day of the week it was when most people could not read and time was not normally kept by mechanical means.
Anderlys is a small quite village set on the river bank. The village was very important in the time of Richard the Lionheart as from the rocky out crop above the village is a vantage point to look up and down the Seine and thus strategically important. Thus Chateau Gillard was built by Richard in 1196 ’the castle of the rock’. Although partial demolished in 1598 it still has presence and dominates the landscape from the river as you come from Rouen or are leaving towards Paris. A very popular site with tourists .
Vernon and it’s very small hamlet Veronennet, the other side of the river was full of really old timber framed buildings and a wonderful 15th Centaury church La Collegiale. Mainly gothic with beautiful rose window and 13 side chapels. A beautiful stone stair case disappeared to nowhere at the one side but the beauty of the stone work was breath taking. This was also only 3 Kilometres from Giveny and Monet’s house and gardens. We have been before but this time we cycled the 3 kilometres there and back, our first real cycling feat.
The river Siene is a dark green colour like savoy cabbage. The river banks green with trees, grass, wooded hill sides or white chalk out crops which break up the greenery. Villages or towns along the banks have character in their buildings and no uniformity of structure giving uniqueness to each one.
Bird song is constant, herons are common along the river banks and the whole scene is peaceful. This is what we thought and hoped we would encounter but did not think it would be this soon in the journey or so much of it.
The Halts de Plaisance are often very small and normally in parkland so you wake up to feel that nature is on your doorstep. Wonder what will be beyond Paris in the canals.
We have had a few blips. Our dingy and one of the davits were damaged by another yacht as they were leaving a mooring in a strong current, but these are being replaced and we should have our replacements by the time we get to Paris.
We had a fuel leak on the engine which was dripping into the bilge and David had to undertake emergency repairs, Success, but at one point we were very worried as the fuel continued to drip out even with everything turned off. Thank goodness he’s an engineer.
Fuel has also been difficult to find and pulling into one town, as were very low, to got on foot to find a garage, a passing Irish man living in France, helped us with our mooring ropes and ended up driving me in his van to fill our cans. Amazing luck to find a good Samaritan.
After our first lock on leaving Rouen, we could not find a halt and ended up moored to a very rickety pontoon in a speed boat play area. The wash from the speed boats and the passing barges made us wonder if we would be adrift in the night. The little pontoon was also at the bottom of a garden with two very old dilapidated caravans and as it got dark we wondered what might come out of the trees but we survived.
Luckily the downs have been few and we continue onwards up the Seine. Paris next stop
Paris 15th to 22th May.
The sun traveled with us as we left Chatou (40 Kilometers outside )and passed through our last lock before entering Paris central region. The river gave up the fields and tree lined banks for a built up environment the nearer we moved towards Paris. The green colour of the river remains.
No more little villages but apartment blocks which grew higher and higher.Within Paris these were adorned with balconies, balustrades plus pots or tubs full of shrubs and flowers which gave them a definite character and appeal. Offices and business premises all added to the mix but soon landmarks, known to us, became visible to add to the vista.
At the tip of the Attee des Cygnes (an island in the middle of the Seine), the statue of Liberty with the Eiffel tower to the right of that and in the distance Notre Dame on the Isle de City. We had to pass to the right hand side of the Attee and head towards the Eiffel tower, the same as the Bateaux Mouches( these carry people along the Seine to see all the sites from the water and some are floating restaurants)
Our time in Paris is split between two mooring sites. The first at Halt Eiffel which is half way along the Attee des Cygnes Island, just past the Statue of Liberty. We are moored near the foot of the Eiffel tower and on the other bank is the Trocadero .The Arsenal is 7 kilometers further at the base of the Bastille and we sailed beside Notra Dame, between the famous left and right banks of the Seine and the Louvre to get to the Arsenal
Our second halt is at Paris Arsenal or Bastille by Notre Dame, the other side of Paris a very large marina in comparison.
Halt Eiffel is very small, one long stone wall with bollards, all the basic facilities, which small boats like us share with some of the smaller commercial tourist boats, who come in here at night to moor up. One of the problems is the wash from the passing big boats which cause waves to throw you against the stone quay, so we have to be well fendered. The advantage is the proximity to Metro station for city travel and some of the main attractions. The Arsenal was full until after the weekend when we moved across. We did have a near disaster at Eiffel when an old wooden boat belonging to two Irish lads had to be moved into a small space in font of our position. We were already the third boat moored out and we were going to lose our anchor and pulpit as they became entangled in it. With lots of heaving and pushing, ropes being thrown to them from the boat in front and the Capitainnarie moving another boat out of the way, they disentangled. Don’t think we could have taken more damage
You enter the Arsenal through it’s own lock. It is like a big long basin as it is surrounded on 2 sides by 6 meter high stone walls the other side by high grassy banks and a public garden. The forth side is the Seine via the lock. The boats line the sides and at the far end is the entrance to the Canal Dennis. Quite big tourist boats appear out of the 4 meter high tunnel entrance periodically, turn in the basin and disappear down the tunnel again. Quite unnerving the first time you see it occur.
We have revisited the Musee D’Orsey, Eiffle tower, Louvre and Trocadero but for the first time The Orangery in the tuileries garden, Maritime Museum and Catacombes.
The vast range and quality of Impressionist paintings in the refurbished Orangery we had not expected and the 1.7 kilometers walk, in the catacombs, under the city to see the Ossuary of ancient Parisian bones(started 1784) was remarkable although a little weird seeing skulls and limb bones arranges into intricate patterns forming the side walls of the tunnels, like using ornate bricks to form pictures. Decent or not?
We took a day out to travel back to Versailles using the RER trains only about an hour outside Paris.The Chateau of Louis V1V is incredible. Vast,luxurious,splendid, if you have never been a definite place to visit
We were due to leave 23rd May but a water pump leak in the engine now means we have to wait for parts to be sent from England so a further 5 days here.No too bad a place to have to stay,I think we can find a few more places to visit and restaurants to try out while we wait.
Good news, our replacement dingy and davits have arrived and are now in place so we are fully equipt again.
We are now going down the 4 central canals when we leave the Seine. The Liong,Briare,Loire and Centre and then The river Saone.
Well have planning to do so a G&T I think will help the brain cells to function better. Where did I put that Ice and lemon?
We will have been in Paris for a fortnight next Monday due to a water leak in our engine. We had ordered the new parts, these arrived , were not the right ones and reordered the correct ones. When these arrived the water pump could not be removed, so back to plan one, go on regardless.
We have still enjoyed the prolonged stay. We feel as if we know Paris very well indeed. In the Boulongerie I have only to appear and it is Bonjour, baggette madame? I do not have to say anything just smile. We are on nodding terms with most of the live aboards within the Arsenal bassin and know the new arrival as they appear.
The Office staff do not ask our name when we go for mail just look through the pile and say Yes or no.I have also decided that it is time for flowers on the boat so we are off to get a tub of Geraniums to tie to the mast. This is the mark of the true liveaboard.
We walked along the original canals of St Denis and St Micheal.They end by a low tunnel through into the Paris Arsenal where we are based.We have now walked even more. There are 14 locks and they are the old way into Paris off the Seine before the Eiffel tower. The canals run right through built up areas, apartments ,shopping precincts, offices and this is the area which is classed as the Parisians Paris. Really lovely.
We are now leaving Sunday 1st June. There is still 89 kilometers of the Seine to travel before we enter the Liong canal. The locks then start in earnest 19 in the first 50 Kilometers,32 in the next 55K,37 in the next 200K and 61in the next 110K, in the last of the 4 canal before we enter the Saone river. Will should be well practiced by the end of that little lot. So off to get final supplies and a last wander around the streets of Paris.
The escape from Paris was with sadness yet need for the freedom of open water once again. In Port Censes, about 20km from Paris we entered just before a Dutch boat, as we looked around for space, finding none to fit us in the designated visitors area, they found a space amongst the permanent house boats. An English man already berthed had seen our search and gone to the Capitain to secure a spot for us, in the end they made the Dutch boat move ( this did not go down well for English / Dutch relationships), but we pretended we did not understand anything and slipped into their spot. We later saw them moored in a spot too small for us anyway so all had a berth However we came across the same boat a day or so later in a lock and we received a frosty look .plus they scooted out of the lock ahead of us, may be afraid we were headed for the same place and determined to get there first. We also saw them disappearing off down the canal system we will eventually follow so who knows if we may meet them again.
We headed for Moret sur Loing at the head of the Loing canal system next, but no space at the inn, so back to the Seine and St Mammes.
This little village is at the junction of the Seine and Loing canal and easy to cycle or walk to Moret from here.
Moret is a medieval walled city ( small city) still enclosed by the original walls and the two gates ( walled towers North and South). The gates are only big enough for single lane traffic to enter or leave and the bridge and lots of the streets are cobbled.
Narrow streets with timber framed houses are the norm. Sisely, the impressionist painter had a house here. The church is 12th Century and many of the buildings or parts of them are 12th, 13th or 14th Century. Painters are every where, particularly on the grass common below the bridge which enters the first arched gate. Beautiful aspect. Weir, river, ducks, trees, old buildings and if lucky the sun.
We cycled along the canal tow path to see a couple of locks and the area. These locks are different to river locks. Smaller in width ( 5 metres) and 38 meters long, the length and breadth of a standard working Peniche.
Some are manned by an eclusier and often his house is at the lock, while some are automatic, sensors detecting a boats presence in and out thus the doors open and close and water rushes in or out as if by magic. Hope nothing goes wrong and we are half in or out when the gates try to shut. Shudder the thought.
Well we arrived at the first automatic lock just as a barge was leaving, the RED light remained on and we reversed back to stimulated the sensors for us to work the lock. Once inside we could not get the lock to work and had to use the emergency telephone and bring the lock keeper from the previous lock out to ‘un jam’ the automatic one and let us through. Very embarrassing,
On the whole we have developed a technique that works ,taking it in turns to drive in and out and climb the ladder to handle the ropes or work the mechanism of the gates. although we have damaged and had to repair our fender planks twice.
The scenery along the canals compared to the Seine is more gentle. Tow paths run along side and joggers, walkers, cyclists and loads of birds especially herons are accompanying us. There are stretches without any habitation and then villages or hamlets appear. There are more potential places to stop along the canal side, but we have found that it often too shallow for us or there are hidden rocks but we have always found some where to halt.
We have left the canal Loing and are in the second canal the Briare. The town of Montagris, where we are at present is famous for its Pralines ( almond sweets invented in Loius X11 reign by his cook). Needless to say we had to have some of those, really delicious. It also has 17 little bridges through out the town most 18th Centaury and they were all part of the water system used in the tanneries which was the important industry within the town.
There are also two locks within the town, a large lake and the bridges are covered in hanging baskets which gives colour everywhere.
We are still having to pinch our selves at times that the whole experience is really happening.
We have now meet many different Eclusiers (lock keepers) having completed over 40 locks to date in the first two canals. Some live with their families in the houses along side the locks they operate these are in the main bedecked with flowers, have a vegetable patch and a large dog. However you may only get a grunt or nod from some while others are very talkative, although our pigeon French can be limiting.
Some help with your ropes some don’t. In the very deep locks they lower hooks on long poles to take your lines. Quite scary looking up and not even being able to see the bollards on the ground only slimy stone block walls around you and water seeping through the closed lock gates ready to rush in when the paddles are released.
Some of the locks have a hut , not a house and these in the main seem to have young men or students who look after up to 3 adjoining locks and cycle madly between them to help you at the next one. They usually have reasonable English and are glad to chat about the area. We have not had any yet selling produce or wine but I have been given roses by one eclusier when walking between locks..
The automatic locks get more numerous further into the Loire canal but after our initial experience we have survived unscathed in our pride.
We are tending to meet the same group of boats as we travel along. Amazingly another Ann and David on ANDA very experienced, who circumnavigated the world on their previous boat. They now have a motor boat and spend part of each year cruising the canals .At Rogny, on boats moored one behind the other, there were three Ann’s including me, popular name or what?.
The crews are either like us, liveaboard, going to or from the Med or those who take to their boats for aprox 6 months of the year then back home for the winter. The great majority are on motor boats very few like us on sailing boats, and even less carrying their masts.
There are a large numbers of Dutch boats. They are very friendly and speak good English but it is great to meet another English boat and swap stories and glean tips from their experiences.
Teresa and Eddie from Hurkur, who we meet in Le Harve, are now well ahead of us but via text keep us informed of their progress and good places to potentially stay.
At Rogny the halt provided some surprises. The captain of the Quay owned a small ships chandlery and marine engineering business. David asked him to look at our pump .His wife Natalie( another engineer) and he sorted the pump but because we had him to do work for us we were not charged for our second night stop. Also his wife took crew of boats moored at their quay in their car to the local super market (8 kilometres away) besides providing Internet access through their own system. You went above their shop and plugged in! All of this included in the price of your mooring fee and only 5.60Euros per night. Amazing people. and facilities
The Lateral a la Loire
The Third canal system runs along side the Loire river for 200Km. The Loire is a very wide, fast flowing river which has it’s origins in the West, flows through the heart of France and later turns down towards the south. It is not fully navigable, hence the canal lateral being constructed to run alongside. The canal is not generally as pretty as the Briare as it is tree lined so that wide landscape views are scarce but there are some lovely towns along the way. Sancerre which gives its name to this main wine region being one.
Sancerre, the town, is perched high above the canal and the surrounding villages on a rocky outcrop. We moored at St. Satur its base. Here there was a very shallow basin on a side arm off the main canal. It had sloping sides which we could not moor against and so the capitaine put us along side a rusty barge. We now had a nice solid berth but the bottom of the barge was filed with mud, stones and water so we also had a lovely mosquito breeding pond next to the boat! My homemade mosquito nets made for the Med were brought into early use and have remained constantly in use as we trek further south. We thus survived the mosquitoes.
We used the shuttle service, provided by the marina, to visit the town, perched on it`s rocky prominence overlooking the river and canal complete with Chateau. However our confused French resulted in us having to walk back (3 km in the 30+C heat) due to it stopping at 2.00pm on a Saturday NOT call them after 2.00pm which is what we thought. We arrived back to the boat exhausted.
Many of the towns in this region have coloured painted lines within the town for the visitors to follow and see all the sights on offer. Sancerre was no exception and we explored following the painted blue lines the ancient caves (wine cellars), old timber framed houses, original bridges and a museum explaining the history of the wine and the region. We came away with two wine glasses engraved with Sancerre after our tasting session and promptly went out to buy the wine, but at the local supermarket where it was much cheaper. What does that say about us?
Humidity is beginning to take its toll in the constant heat. We look for shade and ways to keep the boat and us cool. David has rigged up a cockpit shower direct from our inboard shower system through a piece of hose pipe. We were like kids the other evening squirting each other with the hose pipe to cool off having changed into swimming costumes. We were careful to make sure no one was looking although the shrieks as cold water hit hot bodies were difficult to hide.
Further downstream is Nevers. This is the capital of the Nivinase region. We cannot explore this canal system as we draw too much water. However Nevers is a delightful town and an easy walk from the marina.
It is very old. You enter from the canal over the original 14th Centaury stone bridge. You see the strength of the Loire river here where stones and whole trees are caught up in the arches of the town bridge and the water rushes on wards at speed. The high pointed towers of the many churches punctuate the town skyline from all angles and it is very characteristic of the region.
Again a coloured painted line to follow, this time burgundy, along the 12th century castle ramparts and on through the town. 12th century stone houses, timber framed buildings, cathedral and many churches plus cobbled streets being the norm, really a must to see.
Amazing thunderstorm in the far distance one night which lit up the sky like a light show for free, we thought the weather was now on the change but one slightly dull day and 30+C again. An open air swimming pool complex is just behind a wire fence next to where we are moored, very tantalising but it does not open until 1st July when we will be long gone. What a pity.
Friends of ours on Ygraine, Ann and George came into Nevers on our last day, wine in the cockpit (oh, it’s soooo tough!); this is all part of meeting up with old and new people which enriches the journey.
Decize (pronounce it ‘disease’ and you’re not far off) is a town on an Island bounded by the Loire river on one side, canal lateral and the Nivernaise canal system on the other. International canoeing and Kayaking racing was taking place on the river when while we were there. We cycled along the river bank and stopped to watch. The river was divided up with coloured floats and cans into 8 lanes. Any boat traffic wanting to enter or leave either of the canal systems could not move at all that weekend. Time to stop and relax once again. Just as you have to on the canal system between 12.00 noon and 1.00pm as the lock keepers have their lunch. All stops.
There was an all female British contingent taking part and we spoke to the team captain and saw a British pair win their event. Quite exciting.
We are now at Digion at the end of the Canal Lateral a La Loire and ready to move on to the last canal The Central.
At the end of this one we will be back onto rivers, the Soanne and Rhone, with a fortnight stop now scheduled in at Valence for me to dash home.
We are now in our last canal system of the journey south. This canal is noticeably different from the other three being much wider for long stretches and then becoming so narrow you wonder will you squeeze through. This is mainly under the canal bridges where the sides encroach far into the water, we wonder about the large barges we have seen and how they negotiate these squeezes.
The condition of the banks is overall very poor. We can really only stop at designated mooring areas as large areas of the banks have either broken away through erosion or the retaining concrete walls have broken and fallen into the canal leaving hidden danger lurking for any soft bottomed boat that tries to creep in. There are more halts than our navicarts suggest so that’s a bonus and the lock keepers do not stop at 12.00 for lunch.
We were actually hunted down by one lock keeper when we failed to turn up at the next lock in the series, it being 11.45 we decided to stop for and early lunch as we would not get to the next lock before midday. At about 12.15 a car drew up on the road along side the bollards we had found to moor against, just before a road bridge. Why were we there? They were waiting for us. When we responded with our lunch closure answer we were then told that this is not how things are on the Canal du centre. We ate up and moved on.
We have also been amazed at the inconsistency of the lock keepers here in the way they handle the locks and boats. We have had them ignore us and not help with the ropes, when we have been used to help, I’ve then had to climb up the ladder in the wall to get up to the bollards in the deeper locks, over 3 meters , while in the smaller 2.5metres deep we can usually lasso the bollards. We have had them take one rope and then walk away to let the water in with us swing around not tied up safely, although most of the time they help you or we do it all ourselves.
We love the automatic locks controlled by radar in the main which we can handle on our own. However we ended up in one where the electricity seemed to have cut off. We pulled the normal blue cord to start the lock filling and door closure process but nothing happened.
I climbed up the ladder, the emergence phone was not working, the emergency pull cords seemed not to be working and in the end I sat on the lock edge to wait for ‘something or someone to arrive’, David settled down and led out sunbathing on the front deck within the lock. Eventually, after about half an hour, a car turned up and a lockkeeper disappeared into the little hut at the side of the lock, I followed, and she opened a control panel and turned everything back on. The lock then operated, water flooded in and we rose to the surface like a cork. We started to glide gently out of the lock after the doors final opened when David yelled from the wheel “ turn the engine on”. While waiting the engine had been turned off and not restarted so we were ’sailing’ out of the lock, being pushed by the breeze, with no control what so ever. A rush below to rectify this situation and an addition to our lock check list for the future to ensure we always had power.
The personalities of the lock keepers vary so much from those who do not say a word to you. Those who are chatty and want to practise their English or listen patiently while we converse in our Hello Hello French, Some young Female lockkeepers seem too glamorous for the job and some have their friends, partners or families keeping them company for the day and are chatting non stop with each other and not always taking full notice of what they are doing. We have also had some who work a number of consecutive locks with you, following by car or bike, so you seem to get to know them, a real mixture. Finally in the evening, especially on small halts they appear in their vans to ask when you are travelling onward and at what time so they can coordinate the locks, there is some method in all this seeming chaos at times.
We have stopped at Digion, Paray Le Monial, Genelard and Montceau Les Mines to date along this canal. Paray is a place of pilgrimage where a 12th Century Basilica (the Sacred Heart) and Saint Marguerite-Marie Alacoque are still visited by the bus load. The town is very pretty, small streets, old buildings and baskets of flowers lining the bridges and walks around the town. We spent ages in the Heiron Museum (paintings and icons based on the Eucharist) but it was fascinating and also the modern mosaic exhibition split between the Basilica, cloisters and the tower of Saint Nicholas, amazing work by young artists.
In all the places we stop we wander around the towns and soak up the different sights and scenes on offer. We look for any special wines, cheeses or edible specialities and try them (well I do more so than David).It is all part of the experience.
We have 3 more stops after Montceau before the Soane,Montchanin, the highest point on the canala( after this all locks are down towards the Med. Hurrah.),St Ledger and Chagny.
Tomorrow is Bastille day and we are staying in Montceau as we have fireworks here and parades. A blog entry on it`s own I think.
We have been travelling really slowly and making more overnight stops in shorter distances than before. Our time frame is now centred on being in Valence, on the Rhone, in early August, for me to come home for 2 weeks. Thus we have time to spare and are stretching out our last few weeks on the canals before entering the fast flowing rivers again.
112 Kilometres is the length of this canal. We found it to be the poorest for the state of its banks and locks but the halts were more numerous and good quality compared to the other systems. We also reached the highest point on all our travels at Montchanin (312 metres above sea level) and the end of the ascending locks (going in at the bottom of the locks, water flowing in to raise you up and then disappearing out onto the next canal stretch). We had reached MED1, the first of the descending locks, and now we would be descending all the way to sea. These locks are much easier as you go into locks full of water and drop down and out onto the water below. The frequency of the locks had increased, though, and we had little respite as some were in staircases of 6 or 8 in just a few kilometres. Once you start you have to finish the group as the lights are all set for you and others cannot enter of leave if you are not through the system. We got shouted at once by a Dutch boat which we had held up as we tried to stop for lunch between locks not knowing the system, we soon learned!
Lock keepers do not stop for lunch on the Centre so better travel times but all the towns and villages still have their two hour minimum lunch break. We are still, today, finding this strange as everything stops except the restaurants, bars and cafes
Cycling has been enjoyable but David has bought handle bar extensions to improve his posture.
The heat and humidity has been a surprise to us (in the low 30’s most of the time now). We are learning how to keep the boat as cool as possible and actually hiding from the sun. Never thought we would be doing this but it’s a must. People we have met on route, who are returning from the Med, tell us that we don’t know what heat is like until you experience it in the 40’s on the sea in the Med. We wait to find out.
We spent Bastille Day (14th July) in Montceau Les Mines. This was an old mining town where the industry has now gone but it boasts a good marina in the area where all the coal barges used to collect for their cargos. They had their obligatory firework display over the marina and everyone in the town turned up to watch. We joined the crowds. An amazing display that seemed to go on for ages lighting up the sky with multicoloured sprays of light, loud bangs and music blaring out to accompany the technicolour spectacle.
All the boats had to move up to the one end for the night to keep out of the way of any stray fireworks or sparks. A jumbled heap of boats all moored one onto the other against the walls and big barges. We all survived unscathed and next morning moved quietly back onto our respective pontoons
At Ecuisse we found a canal museum situated at the sight of one of the original old 15th century locks. This lock and many others were replaced in the 1800’s to a standard gauge (length, breadth and depth). Peniches and barges then were made to fit the locks exactly.
The museum was inside a retired working peniche and the other part was in the original lock keepers house. Pictures of bargees, their families, life in general, models and objects from the canals were all on display besides history of canals and transport in general. Really interesting and as we had travelled through a large number of the places in the photographs we could see the differences and relate to the photographs.
Open air markets can be found in most towns at least one day a week. They have vast arrays of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses of all shapes sizes and lots of cured meats wrapped up in cloth to look like sausages. Cloths, toys and shoes and crafts are found in varying amounts at different markets. We go to any we can as just wandering through the stalls is an experience in itself with the colour, smells, noise and often a bargain to be had.
I did try a local speciality last time we ate out, ‘Tete a Veau’. I did try to eat it but when I could actually see the rough surface of a tongue in amongst the fat and meat, I just ate the potatoes accompanying the dish and the Calves head went back to the kitchen. David took a mobile phone photo as the dish arrived and sent it to all the kids, there responses were varied but it will be a while before I try the like again.
As July comes to an end the first of our two Grand children has arrived.
Sian and Simon had a little girl Emily Mair 17.07.08 6lbs 4ozs, mum and baby fine. We wait for Nia and Ben’s news any day soon.
We have now left the canals and have begun our journey down the Soane. How different the view as we popped out of the last canal lock. A wide expanse of moving, pale green water not the dark green still, quiet, narrow confined water way we have been on for the last seven weeks.
When we left the marina at Chalon Sur Soane it marked the end of our canal travels.Just a few kilometers from this lovely town the last lock opens onto the river Soane. We were very apprehensive.
As you meet different people along the way, they all have their stories to tell you. However a constant theme is the strength and ferocity of the rivers , particularly the Rhone. This last lock was also the deepest to date, 10 meters. We entered and as the lock emptied two Hugh doors blocked our view.When they open a different world appeared. The narrow canal was replaced with a wide expanse of water both to the sides and ahead. No way could we touch the banks from the boat and the water was moving carrying us with it. Even the colour had changed to a pale green from the deep savoy cabbage green brown. The sides of the river were irregular and depth markers and channel buoys bobbed in the current to show us the direction of the channel. This was not frightening it was like coming home. This was more like the sea we had began to miss after the months on the flat still canals. We loved the space and movement. The Rhone flows quicker than the Soane but to date that is the only difference.
The locks are much bigger, you can loose whole buildings in them. We`still have the 23meter deep Bolene to do but 15meters is the norm. The views have opened up with mountains in the distance. Vineyards line the hill sides and the owners names and grape types are displayed on big boards within the fields.
Boats now travel at much faster speeds, including us and so we can now cover greater distances daily upto 40 to 50 kilometers, if we want ,compared to only 10 to 12 on the canals some days.
We were really looking forward to Lyon the second largest town after Paris.We moored, not at a marina but as the barges do against the quay sides of the river bank in the heart of the city. Hugh metal rings embedded in the stone quays held us fast. Hop off the boat and you are in the old city or riding the funicular up to the amazing `Notre Dame` Romanesque Basilica perched high above the city. or wandering through the pedestrianized shopping centre. Also lots of people, cars and noise.
We went to the WW2 museum of resistance and deportation. It was an experience that affected us both and I find very hard to put into words.You need to visit. The sights sounds and stories we saw and read will remain with us for a very long time.
Places to stop are fewer than on the canals so you have to plan your travels more precisely but the towns have lots to see. Les Roches, where they built and inland sand beach for swimming and skiing and Tournon with it`s very old Basilica and Chateaux ruins,to name a few.
At Valance, on the Rhone, we stopped for me to return home for a couple of weeks.We have had two beautiful grand daughters who I had to return to see. David has remained on the boat and hired a car to explore the area while I came home. We did however both go to Montelimar before I left as this we pass on the river but cannot stop there. Montelimar is the home of Nougat but also a very good aircraft museum which we prowled around.All the family have now sampled the Montelimar traditional delicacy.
When I return we will completed our travel along the Rhone to the sea.We still have Avignon and Arles to see ,so more yet to add to the blog.
We will leave the Rhone at the Port St Louis lock and we will go further down to Port Napoleon to take the boat out of the water for the winter,
We now have two beautiful grand daughters.
Emily Mair was born on 17.07.08 weighing in at 6lbs.4ozs to Sian and Simon in Southampton, whilst Isla Mia arrived a week late to Ben and Nia on12.08.08 in Powys. She weighed in at 6lbs 9ozs and looks to have the red hair that runs in the family. Both are petit and beautiful but I am not at all biased.
I came home for two weeks in August and have spent time with both of the new families. It is amazing the joy that these little bundles give to every one and to be part of it all is very special.
Sue and Rob have also become engaged and a February wedding is being planned amongst the new babies and nappies. Life is wonderful.
Well we have finally made it. We popped out of the Rhone through the sea lock into Port St Louis, in the Golfe de Fosse, on Tuesday. The Med is now washing the bottom of our boat.
The last stage of the Rhone was exciting . Heavy rains and thunderstorms in the mountains around the Rhone had increased the flow of the river. At Valance where we had been for a month, the flow rate of the river doubled overnight from 1500 cubic meters, the norm to 3000cubic meters. The Rhone was therefore closed to all pleasure craft for a couple of days.
We had one really spectacular thunderstorm with continuous lightning for over 2 hours. The sky was so alive with flashes we had to close the sun shades over our cabin to try and keep out the light, this was at 2.00am in the morning! Never heard thunder like it and the volume of rain falling was amazing.
Debris was swirling down the river where it had been washed away with the flooding upstream. Whole trees, branches and all manner of flotsam whizzed past our marina caught in the swollen river.
Two boats attempted to leave before the river was opened and could not battle against the flow and had to return to the marina. We watched as they we stopped in their tracks as they hit the main stream and were pushed backwards. It was frightening for them and us watching. When we finally left, 3 days later, we had to be on log alert until the end of the Rhone some 200km distant but had a helpful current to push us down stream at a faster rate than our engine alone could provide.
Port St Louis is typical of what we remembered of Mediterranean ports. Palm trees line the roads, sandy, rocky soil and seemingly unfinished pavements roads and houses are all-around. The air feels dry and the winds very warm. We have met so many people return ing from the med , finding it too hot that we hope we can manage the change. What ever we are here and will give it all we can to realise our goal.
Port St Louis, where we left the Rhone through the sea lock and Port Napoleon, where we are over wintering the boat, are in the Camargue region of France. Here flies, mosquitoes, the famous Camargue wild horses and Flamingos are common sight in the flat etanges of salt water lakes through out the area.
Palm trees line the quay side at Port St Louis and the soil is thin, yellow and sandy compared to the green lush Rhone and canal system we had been in these past months.
The roads and buildings, along the water front have that unfinished look that seems typical of Greece and other hot Mediterranean countries we have visited from the sea in our flotilla days.
The short sea crossing to Port Napoleon from St Louis was through a choppy sea, in a very narrow buoyed channel.
At one point we were a few meters away from a fisherman standing knee deep in the sea setting his standing fishing lines. Behind him flamingos were sieving the water for their food .Large areas of water either side of our channel had poles sticking out of the water forming the holding bases for the oyster beds and the wreck of one boat which had missed the channel completely and was held fast and braking up, between the grassy flat island and the lapping sea it was straddling. Amazing contrasts within one small few meters square area.
Port Napoleon is a vast sea of boats on land and water. Boats are constantly coming and going from the Mediterranean or staying put here as their base. Anything to do with boats and boating is available. However it is just an area of the coast line dedicated to boats no houses or amenities other than those provided by the port. You have to cycle or take their shuttle bus a few kilometres back to Port St Louis for shops, markets and banks. This will give us our exercise. Still it will be our base and as it is half way between Spain and Italy the ideal point next Spring to start our Mediterranean exploration.
18th September -22nd October- Uk and back to France
We travelled home from Port Napoleon, by train, for two weeks to see family and friends. We also needed to fit in the necessary NHS visits as unfortunately we do require certain pills and potions now we are retired or is it older?.
We were travelling from Marseille to London via Eurostar. We were concerned as the fire in the tunnels the week before had greatly affected both train frequency and numbers of trains. However to our delight on reaching Paris we were allocated seats on a train which departed 30minutes before our cancelled booking, thus we got to London in time for our Southampton connection. Overall a very pleasant journey except for the congestion on London underground. What a contrast to Paris metro.
We firstly spent time in Southampton. Dog sat for a long weekend for Sian, Simon and Emily to go away.
While looking after Diesel we managed to fit in the Boat Show, visiting local attractions and playing the tourist. We also enjoyed a lovely evening and meal at the home of friends we had met on the canals.
Emily had grown considerably in the few weeks since I had last seen her. She is now smiling at everyone and taking much more interest in everything. It is sad to be missing these times
We then travelled to Newport. We also had a visit back to the house for David to look at the plumbing for the tenants. Bath sorted we removed some items from the loft which we needed for Spain and tools for the boat (never ending the boat jobs)
Amanda and James have just bought a new house in Newport so we stayed with them. David had jobs lined up by Amanda to keep him busy for the few days we were there. I managed a lunch with a few of my old work colleagues and visited my dad. We were really fitting lots into this stay.
Mid Wales to stay with Ben, Nia and Isla allowed us to get out walking in the surrounding hills. Really great. Isla had also grown so much as she had only been five days old when I last saw her. It was great to once again be changing nappies and having baby cuddles.
It was so sad to leave but Bristol and wedding planning was next on the agenda with Sue and Rob. Surprising that our visit coincided with Ali and Tom and their baby Sam being in Britain and calling into to see Sue and Rob. We had spent last Christmas in Melbourne with them all before Sam was born last February. Lovely to catch up.
Sue and I did manage to sort table decorations, wedding invitation changes and other bits and bobs, last time it was wedding and bridesmaid dresses so count down is on for February 2009 but I still have my outfit to find so lets hope I can do that in Spain.
We then returned to Southampton for a few hours before we left on the 23.00pm Portsmouth - Le Harve ferry on 3rd October, and back to Port Napoleon in charge of our new acquisition, ‘Rachel’
We slept well as we crossed the channel in our 4 berth cabin ( needs must as all 2 berth were taken). We did not even visit the bar, we were shattered and needed our wits about us for right hand driving the next morning.
The journey down through France seemed so familiar as we were seeing so many names on signposts that we had passed through or stopped at on the canals.
Chartres was our first planned stop. The Cathedral was the draw and we were not disappointed. This was one monument which had not suffered in WW2 and the original 11and 12th Century carvings both inside and on the exterior were brilliant. Detail, variety and numerous it was difficult what to focus on. The stain glass is world famous and the colours, particularly the blues are so vibrant. Really lovely.
From here we went to Nevers. This is about mid way through France. Friends we had made on the canals were over wintering here and had invited us for a roast meal if passing. Amazing what you can do on a boat and George and Ann surpassed themselves. We brought the ‘Ah Bisto’. A suitable addition. We ended up stayed the night. Great hospitality and lovely to get up to date. ‘Rachel’ was a topic of conversation and George was interested.
From here we wanted to go through mountains so headed for Grenoble. The Alps were a really beautiful sight peaking above the countryside as we moved closer and closer. The following day we drove up through the mountains. There was still snow from last season on the road sides and beneath some trees in the shade. Needless to say we had to make snowballs and film it! The road down to the town of Gap had more hair pin bends than we have ever negotiated, both driving and scenery exhilarating and our next destination after all this high altitude was Aix en Provence on the plains
How can you equate the pink tinge of the stone and roofs of the buildings and red sandy hot soil in Aix with the green cool mountains, all within a few 100 kilometres, France is such a contrast.
Sadly rain stopped us exploring Aix this time and we drove on to Port Napoleon .
We did fit in a trip to Arles from Port Nap as this was again a place which we could not stop at on the way along the Rhone. Again such a contrast. The Roman Amphitheatre, roman baths and arena surrounded by modern streets and housing reminded me of Rome with it’s mixture of ancient and modern existing side by side.
Jobs for this side of winter now completed we leave tomorrow for Spain.
Perpignan, Barcelona and Valentia we hope to make our stops on the way to La Ahozia. Getting everything we want to take in the car is the magic trick we are trying to perform.
A cup of tea I think before we try to put one more piece into the jigsaw of packing
We arrived in La Azhoia 22nd of October, leaving a chilly Marseille in comparison. As we left France and travelled further south through Spain the air temperature began to rise and we were soon back in 20C plus temperatures. Lovely.
The area of Spain where we are staying is Murcia. This is a region of vast jagged mountain ranges, the Sierras which stretch right down to the sea. Travelling is either between the ranges, along the flat alluvial plains or through them, tunnels and narrow twisting roads cut into the sides of the mountains. New or upgraded roads and vast areas of new build complexes are dotted through out the whole region. It is like an enormous building site,
La Azhoia is literally, at the end of the road. The small fishing village of San Gines is beneath the cliffs, where the road ends and the complex is a few hundred meters before the village.
All this is set around a large bay, which we wake up to each morning.We peek through the gaps in the apartments in front of us or look at in it’s entirety while spending any time on the roof terrace. It is only a few minutes walk to the beach and then stroll on the sand. This time of year it is very quiet but two restaurants are still open for café solo or café con leche or even something stronger as we wander back and forth.
Mazarron and Porte del Mazarron have the nearest shops, lots of restaurants and internet access about 8 kilometres to the west, while Cartegena a large port and city is 20 kms to the East.
The warmth ,beautiful views and ability to read, walk or relax at will are making us really appreciative of this location for the next 5 months.
British, German, Scandanavian and other nationalities have moved to the Costa Calida and that is evident in the languages we hear in the street on the beaches and in the supermarkets.Madridians have their second homes here and we are told that they come in their droves in July and August.Hugh villas and appartments, mainly empty at this time of year are their homes. Glad we are here now.
We have started Spanish lessons on a Monday lunch time in a local bar overlooking the sea at the port. We have had lots of homework to try to catch up with the others but are really enjoying meeting other people and even the extra work. Not sure of our increased fluency in Spanish but we are improving. Slow but sure
Exploring the area to date We have been to LOrca and walked the ramparts of the hugh Castillio on the hilltops there.From the Castle We now know about the origins of Castillian Spain and the Fall of Islam in the area. Cartegena with its Roman origins and remains plus new shops and modern port was our next trip. More to go back to and see there. Aquilas, Murcia`s furthest west seaside town and the Capital Murcia with it`s old buildings and hugh Cathedral have been visited and no doubt will return to with vivsitors.The local area is a treasure trove of walks,hills (La Cuestas), ruins, abandoned towers and miles of beach and shore line to explore. Life is great.
We have now fully settled into the unhurried slower pace of life here on
the Costa Calida.
We drove to Granada to see the Alhambra Palace and the city at the end of November.
We left the sun and 20+C at the coast to arrive as the first snow of the year fell on the surrounding mountains ( Sierra Nevada). The temperature rose to 4C in the day and more snow fell during our 2 days so that on the way back all the hills were white instead of the green and grey of our outward journey. Thermal shock set in and we ended up wearing almost every item of clothing we had taken.
Granada is a maze of small narrow streets (one cars’ width, just) and very high buildings so that you lose landmarks and get lost wandering the streets. Street cafes and colourful shop stalls open onto the streets giving a lively feel even in the cold and off season.
The Alhambra lies to the east side on hills overlooking the city with the now snow-covered mountains forming a beautiful back drop. An amazing place. We took the obligatory tour. Visitor numbers are restricted daily but this time of year we had no problems. The contrast of the fortress’s bleak plain stonework and the Moorish palace’s intricate carvings on all surfaces was incredible. Water is used as a architectural feature and for cooling in the summer. Thus water as pools or fountains is found within most of the palace rooms
The Alhambra is another one of those places you have to visit yourself to appreciate the workmanship, beauty and sheer magnitude of the place .
The evening temperature started to drop in December and we had to put the heating on but in the day we are still have some lovely sun.
We were playing boules on the beach and sunbathing with Sian Simon and Emily on 21st December and look forward to sitting out on our sun terrace on Christmas day.
Walking is great both terrain and temperature wise and but we have had to curtail the walking for a while as I have damaged my knee. A few weeks rest and I will be off on the march once again.
We had a great Christmas party with our Spanish class. We have lessons in a bar/ cafe overlooking the bay in Port De Mazarron. The party was in the bar which was closed to the public for the afternoon and evening. All the classes joined together and 56 people sat down to Salad and Paella with unlimited wine! The sun was shining as we ate and at dusk the live entertainment began and eventually we were all joining in, singing along.
A group of 12, from the complex we are on, will be going to a local restaurant for Christmas lunch. Turkey Spanish style is on the menu, wonder what that will be like? Will report later.
Christmas day dawned with the sun peeking out above the surrounding hills. No snow or chill winds as in Britain. Did we miss that aspect, well no, although we did miss the family.
12 of us, from the complex, had booked for Christmas lunch at a local Spanish restaurant. No crackers or party hats but fresh prawns, smoked cold meats before ‘Spanish’ style turkey and as much wine as you wished. Wicked desserts, Christmas sweets, coffee and liqueurs followed. It was therefore difficult to concentrate on the local Spaniards who serenaded us through the sweet course accompanied by guitars, tambourines and various pitched males voices.
A very different day. We left the restaurant, with the sun still shining to walk along the beach before the sun started to set and we moseyed homeward.
The weather was very variable to the end of December and through the beginning of January. Some people saying it was the coldest December here for 47years. To us it was still wonderful most of the time. Mostly high double figures in the days although we did drop down to 6C at night for a few nights.
Walking in the surrounding hills and along the coast is proving very enjoyable. The terrain can be taxing but the scenery, views and colours of the landscape are wonderful.
Our Spanish lessons continue and although we are now reading in Spanish and grappling with the grammar we are still finding it difficult to understand the Spanish mainly due to the speed at which they speak. Even those speaking broken English to us speak at such a speed that our own language is difficult to understand. We preserver.
We are becoming accepted into the community. I have watered plants for a month for neighbours returning home for Christmas, dropped and collected people from the local airport, began line dancing and joined in organised walks and beach gatherings.
We had our car broken into on a visit to a more touristy area further up the coast. This really sickened us but luckily they either had no time to take anything or were looking for Sat Nav’s only (ours was safe in my handbag), so we lost nothing. The damage, smashed window, broken door lock and handle are a pain but we trundle on.
A live show with dinner and good hotel, awaits us next week to celebrate my birthday, so we are off to Benidorm. Lets hope the car thieves stay away but the sun comes with us. Looking forward to the couple of days after all the good reports from all who have gone before us.
We then return in February for Sue and Rob’s wedding on 7th Feb, a blog entry all of it’s own that will be. Really looking forward to the big day and seeing everyone, particularly the grand daughters.
Just looked at the forecast, more sun tomorrow, well will have to grin and bare it once again. A hard life?
Mention Benidorm and you get a variety of responses.
“ must go one day to experience it”
“ will never go there again”
“It’s what you make of it”
“Love it”
“ Don’t like it but you must go to the Palace”
So we decided we must go and see for our selves. Also the live show at the Palace was a winner with every one who had been, so off we toddled.
The Palace theatre is a Silver domed building easily recognisable from a distance. It specialises in live shows with dinner before the show. As my birthday treat David booked for us to go and also stay over night in a good hotel within walking distance of the theatre.
I had always thought of Benidorm as one of the main places tourists visited when Spain started to become a holiday destination, particularly British holiday makers. In the past I had never had any pull to visit Spain and no one in my family had been to Benidorm so I had no real idea what to expect.
The Hotel and the show really lived up to all the comments and thus expectations.
The town and beach area unfortunately also lived up to my stereotypical image and some of the comments. High rise every where and totally English. Any Spanish flavour and culture seems to have been wiped clean away. Give me the narrow mountain roads, small family run Spanish restaurants and bars and low rise urbanisations. Even the unpredictability of whether the bar will be open or closed to day due to the owners whim or change in weather is preferable. An experience but we will not be going back.
The live show is well worth a return visit. A combination of flamboyant flamenco dancing and numerous extravagant dance routines intertwined with acrobats, novelty acts and an amazing laser light show. A live band played in the interval and the stage became a dance floor. The atmosphere got to us both and we were up for a shuffle amongst the rest. Possibly a non repeatable performance by us but who knows.
A leisurely breakfast, wander to a big street market on the following morning and then the drive back to the South.
The weather has begun to feel Spring like, temperatures rising in the day and warmer at night. The end of January is the start of the Almond tree blossom.
Vast areas of the plains between the mountains and up into the lower slopes of the hills are beginning to turn white as the blossom erupted on the trees. I joined a local walking group to walk on one of the know ‘blossom trails’. The trees change over night from gaunt grey sticks to white fluffy clouds which last up to 2 weeks. It is a beautiful sight.
Wild flowers are also coming into bloom while the last of the oranges and lemons are still clinging to their bushes so the colours are amazing.
We nearly did not leave Spain to get to the wedding when we flew on the 2nd of February 2009. Snow in Britain had already closed all the London regional airports as well as West Midlands and Southampton. Bournemouth however remained open. We were the last flight of the day from Murcia and the only one of 4 to leave the airport that evening. Luck was with us as we texted back and forth to Britain from the airport and kept hoping we would get airborne. Two hours late we arrived in the UK.
We even escaped the worst of the snow as we travelled throughout the week from Southampton to Bristol and eventually to Wrexham and Chester for the event. Only two couples had to cancel due to weather so someone was watching over us all.
The small village church of St Mary’s Ruabon, Wrexham was the scene for the service while Rowton Hall Hotel Chester 20 minutes away, for the reception and evening party. The old manor house style hotel, set in large open grounds, a beautiful back drop for pictures as well as providing a vast ball room and conservatory for the days’ celebrations.
Although we escaped fresh snow fall on the morning of the wedding service it was very cold. Every one braced them selves to keep looking warm and from the pictures, succeeded.
The main bridal party refused coats, smiled constantly throughout the service, greetings and photographs. The sun came out and complemented the warm wishes, and smiles of all the guests as they all joined in congratulations outside the church and welcome of the happy couple to their wedding breakfast venue.
The bride was radiant, the groom handsome and the bride’s maid and flower girl, both beautiful.
The best man’s speech brought tears to our eyes it was so funny, one of the best I have ever heard, Sue’s dad’s speech very moving but also humorous while Rob excelled himself.
Everyone enjoyed the whole day and played their part in wishing the happy couple all the best for this, the start of their married life together .
What more can be said, the pictures tell the story.
One thing that the Spanish excel at is the Fiesta. Having driven to the seaside town of Aguilas through the mountains to the West, we became part of the final evening of the February celebrations in the region. The fiesta and carnival at Aquilas is the second largest in Spain. This particular fiesta spans 2 weeks and different towns and villages, all along the coast have their own celebrations and processions which culminate in the one at Aquilas.
We parked away from the sea front and walked to the processional area which was through the main street.
We stopped at one of the many bars, a must for any occasion, and enjoyed a cana.(local draft beer) before finding an area to see the procession.
The town lines both sides of the main road with chairs for the public. We had been warned to take our own folding chairs so we would not have to pay for the privilege of sitting and we started a second row on the pavement. We were soon sandwiched within the waiting crowds.
The pavements were full of families finding seats, setting up there own areas or just wandering through the crowds. Stalls lined the off road spaces selling all manner of food ,plus some fair ground type shooting galleries and other amusement stalls. Really giving the place a buzz. Looking above from the street level, the balconies from the shops and houses lining the streets, were also filled with eager spectators ready to enjoy the spectacle.
Christmas type lights were strung across the roads and soon the music began to fill the air and the procession emerged.
We were still not prepared for the spectacle that followed. The colour, music, variation of costumes and dancing was amazing. The time and effort which had been put into the whole thing was evident. The mood of the people joyous, euphoric and all ages were taking part. Enjoyment was evident in everyone, both participants and spectators.
You could see men swaying and moving in time to the music, within the crowd of spectators, something you would not witness in the UK, it was infectious.
We watched for over 4 hours and still they kept coming.
Pictures can only give a glimpse of the visual aspect of the evening not the feeling that pervaded the crowd and the participants.
We will have to return another year to have another fix for all the senses after this amazing spectacle and evening.
The mountains surrounding the area has provided a marvellous back drop for the numerous walks we have been able to do.
We have walked the cliff paths and beaches, always in sight of the sea or gone inland walking through pine forests, scrub covered low slopes, almond, orange and lemon groves and many pathways lined with numerous aromatic wild herbs.
The area is cris crossed with ramblers, dry stone and scrub filled empty water courses which separate the hills. Ramblers take the water run off from the hills in winter. These are an adventure in them selves to explore but also sometimes a physical barrier to moving across from one hill to another as they can be many meters deep and too steep sided and rough to climb in and out besides being kilometres long in some cases.
Where ever you explore you feel close to nature and alone within the wild natural landscape.
An Amazing feeling in our normal hectic people filled world.
This region, besides being the main tomato growing region of Spain, was also a big mining area. The spoil tips and mine working provide another area of interest for exploration. The colours are amazing. Bright greens, reds, yellow, purples and silver grey shimmer and show off the ores and metals mined from the area. Although now no mining continues winding gear and slowly decaying stone built mine buildings dot the landscape and add features that attract you to visit and explore. May be it is our valleys heritage that draws us to this particular aspect of Spain. What ever it is, it’s great to see..
We drove from La Azhoia to Barcelona as the first leg of our return to the boat. We left early enough to be greeted by the sun coming up over the first mountain range and casting a beautiful red glow over the horizon. A lovely goodbye from the area.
It was strange to soon be in countryside without the rugged mountain scenery and again look at urban sprawl, flatter horizons and meet more and more traffic on our journey North.
After breakfast next morning we soon passed from Spain into France through an official border crossing but were not stopped thank goodness It all looked quite menacing.
I then changed dictionaries in my bag and had to start saying Boujour and Merci instead of Buenos Dias and Gracias. I was still getting things wrong a few days in which caused a few raised eye brows in French supermarches and restaurants.
The boat had weathered her first French winter surprisingly well. In Britain we would have been greeted with a boat turned green with algae over this time period and possibly smelling damp, but all we had was dust. Really great.
We had hired a ‘bungalow’ on site for the first week as we had to take up our internal floors to renew batteries, put in wiring for Solar panels and replace the domestic water pump. The boat was in refit.
The reality we found was a fitted out blue storage container, just the type you see on ships and lorries carrying freight all over the world. It’s saving grace was a lovely shower room. A little walk way across the front of all 6 ‘bungalows’ acted as an area to have an evening aperitif, if you could escape the marauding mosquitoes, but as you can see from the photo not a beautiful vista.
We returned to the boat at the end of the week and soon got used to fitting into a 35square meter space, about as large as our dinning room at home, but it felt so good to be back.
We soon were meeting new people, swapping tales, exchanging information, advice and generally getting back into boating mode
Our jobs list seemed to grow not diminish as some things had stopped working and needed a nudge, fiddle, push or replacement to try and get everything back up to speed. Some things, like the engine, cannot even be tested until we are back in the water, so not everything can be done now and we had to make time for some sight seeing.
We had been to this area first some 16 years ago and we wanted to return particularly to Aigues Mort. This was a medieval walled city port which is still intact although it does not now have direct sea access. at it’s height of fame and prosperity in the 12 to13 centauries it was the provincial King’s only French sea port.
We had taken pictures from one of the many towers of the ramparts overlooking the large Etange and wanted to try and find the same stone seat from which the pictures had been taken. We did find the seat. We retook the pictures but on reflection the experience is never quite the same the second time around. A pity but still a lovely place to revisit.
We spent more time wandering around the little back roads which cross the vast Etangs and general Camargue area seeing the small black bulls which they still use for local bull fighting, hugh numbers of the famous white Camargue ponies and the fabulous flamingos all within the watery expanse going about their carefree life. Frogs and possibly toads are very vocal in the ditches and etanges large and small, at this time of year, their croaking is so loud that it forms a back drop to daily life but crescendos in the evening at sunset and into the night. In our bungalow I had the window open but fly screen in place to listen to them as I drifted off to sleep, an amazing song of the wild.
We leave tomorrow to wind through France to return through the channel tunnel to the UK but will return in May to once more explore from the boat. The French coast will be first then Sardinia, Corsica and finally Elba.
We arrived back in Wales at the end of April.
Many things to do and people to see and as usual trying to fit too many things into too short a time.
The first weekend was Isla`s christening. Ben and Nia had organised a big evet in the village where they live. Family and friends descended in force making it a very memorable weekend. It also included watching Ben play football on the Saturday afternoon for a local team, now I know why I am not a football fan!
Isla is amazing. She is only 8 months old but spends much of her waking time as she can on her feet. She even `walked` down the isle at the church holding onto her fathers hand and then proceeded to stand all the way throughthat part of the service. The vicar remarked on her involvement through out the service and when at the font, no crying just smiling and looking around all the time enjoying the whole event.
She was also fascinated by the candles near the font and the one that was lit for her as aprt of the service.
Amanada and James have set thier wedding date for July 2010 and Amanada has a new management post to start in September as well as a new car on order and James in a new job so congratulations alround to them both.
Sue and Sian ran the Alton 10 mile road race on our last Sunday home. It was strange to watch and not be taking part. This was also ipart of the preparation for Sian`s Marathon in Berlin in September. This will be a first in our family.
We then picniced in National Trust gardens near the race venue. A real family affair 6 adults, a baby and one dog, great.
We are finally back afloat after the winter layup.
Many things which worked when we left the boat in October had now given up the ghost or had to be coaxed back into life. David had a number of trips up the mast and besides attaching the new radar, installing the new wind instruments and and new halyards for the flags he took some photos of the area and boat for the blog.
We now have new charts for the Med and are planning to go all the way to Greece this season. We had originaly thought to see Corsica, Sardinia and Elba but Scicilly seemed near and Malta was not that much futher and Greece only round the corner of Italy after that!. We will see but we have booked a winter berth in Preveza so we have now a goal.
The French coast up to Monaco is the first stage and after that cross to Corsica.
We have a number of people coming to join us at different times so looking forward to a great summer. Thursday 21st May we hope is our departure day.
Well we finally left Port Napoleon on the 21 May.
David had run out of jobs and there were now no more reasons why we could not start part two of our sea voyage. It is amazing how settled you start to feel when you have been a fair time in one place. It becomes a big wrench to move onwards.
We had met many people. Ivor and his family came to wave us off, loosening the ropes and taking pictures as we passed into the channel and out into the Golfe De Foss. Roberta and Stig had just arrived back after a few weeks cruising and shouted as we moved past wishing us Bon Voyage
It felt great to feel the movement of the sea beneath the boat again. We had even taken sea sick tablets but in the event all was well. We retraced our path down the narrow entrance channel and past the fisherman knee deep in the water at the channel sides. It feels so odd when you can almost touch them from the boat and how easy it would be to loose the channel and go aground in such shallow water
We saw a lot of white sails leaving Martigue, as we crossed the shipping lanes and ended up caught up in the middle of a large racing fleet on their way to Marseille area. Manoeuvring madly to keep out of their way we were soon left far behind, just able to watch their sterns disappear into the distance. How do they get so much speed out of the same wind as us?
The sun was shinning and a pleasant breeze made the 5 hour trip a great shake down sail.
It was a bank holiday and every one who had a boat must have been out on the water as we entered Marseille harbour. Crowded was not the word. We were lucky that a boat was just leaving from the welcome pontoon at the Capitainerie as we arrived and we were able to slip onto an inside berth.
Yet again we have the all the facilities of a major city to hand, we just have to jump off the boat and walk in.
During our few days here we took an open top tourist bus and spent a few hours seeing all the different facets of the 27 mile long City from the top. We walked around the old harbour Basin, where in the morning the small family fishing trawlers bring their catch straight onto the quay to sell under blue umbrellas from hugh water filled troughs. The variety of fish, eels, shell fish, octopus was great to see but we did not buy this time. In the evening these spots are replaced by the souvenir and gift sellers again under big awnings really needed in the heat.
We climbed to the forts surrounding the port entrance and wandered the gardens open to the public with views across to the Islands of Ile Ratonneau and Ile Pomegues, now joined together and called Iles Du Frioul, where the isolation of foreign ships and possible plague carriers were quarantined.
When we left Marseille we headed for these Islands and ended up staying there almost a week due to the Mistral winds developing.
The Islands reminded us of the Costa Calida. The barren white rocks, numerous ruins and very little vegetation. The undulating coast line with many inlets and coves, where various sized boats anchor and birds constantly circulating overhead, making a racket. We explored the island going to the old isolation hospital, which is now being restored, the two forts and the many look out posts scattered across the cliff tops in our few days there.
The weather has already been very hot 30C+ and we are hoping we will be able to cope when it gets to 40C+. A plastic water spray bottle such as you use in the garden is our latest weapon in the cooling strategies. A fine mist of water sprayed over your face and body works a treat.
Our travels along the French coast continues and we have now spent a couple of nights in a calanque near Cassis.
Calanques are deep channels carved from the cliffs which are normally sheltered and ideal places to anchor. They end in little bays usually sandy with rocks and covered in sunbathing people who have walked cliff paths to get down to the water. Water is turquoise and shallow.
Along the coast from Marseille to Cassis there are large number of these and tourist boats bring loads of people out to see them and boaters love them.
Bandol followed by Toulon were the next stages.
Toulon was a lovely city and we spent 2 nights there. We had sprung a sea water leak and on investigation found a leaking stern gland. Toulon had all the shops we needed. We have administered first aid and will have to nurse this and hope we can make it a winter job in Greece. We did not have enough time to explore the city but enjoyed what we could see in the proximity of the port.
We left Toulon to go to the Porquerolles in a reasonable breeze. No bad weather expected. As we passed out of the bay the seas started to increase and the wind got stronger. Luckily we were going in the same direction as the sea and wind which helps the boat stay more stable and more comfortable for the crew, with a big sea and heavy winds.
This was the first hairy crossing we had had. We reefed sails and ended up with little scraps of sail just to keep us stable in the seas state. We were still doing 6 knots, the maximum that the boat will normally do on full sail or engine.
As we turned to go between the Porquerolles and the main land we began surfing down the waves. Really having to keep the boat straight to stop any waves coming over the sides. We saw boats attempting to come the opposite way and pulling into the shelter of the coast or coves and stopping as they could not manage to go into the waves. In the main there was very little traffic on the water due to the weather.
Trying to get into a berth was also fun with the wind howling around us but we choose a gap between two boats. Our strategy was that the owners would soon appear to help, mainly to ensure no damage was done to their boats. It worked and we squeezed in nice and snug and glad to be firmly tied up to land
The island is a nature reserve and well protected by law. You walk or go by bike. It is only 4km wide and about 12 km long. The village around the harbour is the centre and once you leave it you are in a maze of tracks through woodland or vineyards. You can get a map which shows you the tracks you can take to criss cross the island. Mountain bikes are for hire in the village and we under stood why mountain bikes when we attempted to use our little folding bikes to travel around. We got stuck in sand, not enough leg power to get us up the rutted inclines and stones and rocks jumped up to meet our gears, temporarily stopping us for minor repairs. In all the bikes went back in their bags and feet were the mode for getting to the beaches and sight seeing.
Our first snorkel of the trip in Plage D’Argent (Silver bay)resulted in David finding a cuttle fish and seeing it changing colour as it moved between white sand, over the rocks and into dark green weed. I only managed 5 different fish species, no competition between us really. No wet suits needed, water was warm enough. This is why we are here and not on Porthcawl beach.
Well next stop St Tropez, wonder if we will get into the port or just have to sail past looking at the gin palaces and super yachts from afar?
When we arrived at St Tropez bay we decided to try for a berth in San Maxime on the opposite side to St Tropez. Cost and availability of space being the factors.
We had read that regular ferries ply back and forth between the two towns so that was our mode of transport to finally get into St Tropez.
St Tropez reminded us of a cross between St Ives and Honfleur.
An enclosed harbour surrounded by tightly packed tall thin houses, most of which have now been converted to cafes, restaurants and shops. All colourfuly painted or coloured umbrellas in front but very very expensive. There are also the artists with their paintings for sale, lining the quay side of the newer extension to the original harbour and the old brightly painted small fishing boats to the sea side of the old harbour wall.
The hugh super yachts now have pride of place along the inner Quay right outside the cafes and main walk areas. You can pop form your yatch into a boutique and back on board within seconds.
People crowd the quay and wander past just looking into and at the boats. Some are amazing even down to potted trees on the stern platform and hugh vases of fresh flowers on the tables and of course the staff all in uniform going about their duties. On one hugh boat a single fender was bigger than our whole boat!
We did get off the beaten track and walked along the rocks away from the quay and then you can get a feel of how this place would have been originally, quite and rugged
We decided to leave from San Maxime to cross to Corsica a few days later, but after 2 hours and 12 miles into the 105 miles, 20 hour crossing the seas and wind had begun to increase so much in strength and we decided that we could not take this type of buffeting and turned back. The weather system had come in earlier than expected. So we headed for Frejus further up the coast and had 'fun' surfing into the harbour entrance in the winds. We did not know from the charts that Frejus is at the side of a hugh open sandy beach, thus we encountered wind surfers and kite surfers zooming in front and around us as we tried to get into port in the strong winds plus the rolling surf. Not fun but another experience and steep learning curve.
Two days later when we tried again it was in flat calm seas but we sailed for only 2 hours of the 20 trip as no wind. However it was a comfortable crossing and we were not fighting the sea or wind just bobbing along with the flow.
The starts at night were amazing, not a square inch of sky free. David saw two shooting stars on one of his watches, while I had a bright orange ball rising on the horizon just after midnight. I looked on the radar for some tanker or ferry but soon realized I was looking at the moon rising. I had never seen this before. It took about an hour to reach it's full height and then cast a glow in a glittering narrow pathway over the sea, bringing light into the darkest part of the night.
We arrived off the Corsica coast just after dawn and the sight of the mountains illuminated in pink by the rising sun was a sight to remember.
Calvi itself then opened out of the Grey coast line and the hugh Citadel, made of brown, russet and ocher stone, that sits on top of the head land, welcomed us to the port.
The hugh sandy bay is surrounded by mountains. Small along the coast line but getting larger and larger in the distance. The recession creating a landscape that seems to go back and back but getting higher and higher. There was even some snow left on the highest peaks.
We have already anchored and snorkeled from the boat in tourquoise water and enjoyed swinging free in a bay not tied up in a marina.
Although we have not traveled far yet Corsica promises to be a spectacular and interesting place to visit. Watch this space!
Corsica is a beautiful Island. We don't think we will do it justice in the time we have available to us.
The island is mountainous and from the sea majestic peaks dominate the landscape. They also cover in cloud during the day and we have have seen local thunder storms taking place over the land but been beautiful and blue skys on the water.
There is little high rise building, only in Bastia to date. Small mountain villages hang on to the steep sides of the mountains . Very small roads wind along hugging the coast and then disappear up itno the hills above. The beaches tend to be sandy, on the Eastern side and span for miles. A thin yellow band stretching along the shore punctuated by splashes of coloured umbrellas and a resort. Behind the greenery of trees for shade. All this we can see from the boat as we cruise along the coast. We keep talking about hiring a car to explore but as yet this has not materialised.
The Corsican people we have met are very friendly and we can understand thier French better than we could the French spoken in Paris.
We spent three day on Elba, which is 30 miles to the East of Corsica. On the crossing to Elba we saw a big turtle and managed a picture before it dived from sight. On the return journey a pod of dolphins came to paly for a few minutes.Both sightings were in the same area off the coast, quite strange.
Elba however was adifferent story. We did not get off the boat or step onto dry land in our three days there..
The first bay we went to, Marina Di Campo, was a big sandy bay, with lots of water sports, beach umbrellas and loads of people. A tiny mole( concrete wall) where some local boats were moored was tucked into one corner, but we abchored with the other visitors within the bay.The wind came up over night, the swell came in and we rocked and rolled all night. Very uncomfortable. We were also not sure if the anchor was well stuck in. So in the morning we left to move around to the East side and a "real "Marina.So day and night one still on the boat.
Porto Azzuro was aslo a big bay but with a Marina to the East of the bay. "Go away, we are full" we were told as we tried to go in to a half empty marina. Mystified we went and anchored again.To be fair later in the day a large flottila did come in and fill most of the spaces but not all,.
At this point we did not have very good feelings about Elba.
The anchor did bite into the mud and weed bottom but we added chum weights , additional weight on the chain,and set up an anchor alarm on the GPS, but this was for practice not for extra security, or so we thought.
The wind was due to blow a little from the North that night only 15 knots so not too much, and this bay was well sheltered from the North, so again we settled down for the night with a glass of wine, talking about going ashore the next mooring to explore.
At 3.00am on mid summers night, all hell broke loose and we were catapulted out of our bed. Thunder, lightning, howling winds ( 50 knot gusts) and the boat being tossed around the anchor and the anchor alarm screaming.
Completely disorientated we did not know whether we still attached, where were the rocks, where were the other boats anchored around us?
We doned lift jackets, still inside the boat, put on all the navigational lights, chart plotter and scanned the GPS. We bagan to relax when we realised that we had not moved but had been turned right around on our anchor which was holding in the viscious squall.
We could see other boats navigation lights, but sudenly a boat was moving past us, backwards, out to sea with it's bimin blowing maddly in the wind. It missed us and the others. All this was being illuminated in the strobe like flashing of the lightning as it was still dark.
We prayed for dawn and just after 5.00am it came, allowing us to see where everything was, giving all around a grey form.
Dingies were upturned in the water.We saw 4 boats with shredded Genoas( the front sail ripped apart). We had an unzipped bimini, easily fixed and our Ensign was torn, easily mended. No boats damaged and all seemed OK.
A few hours after the storm ended a brown line came across the water from the shore. It was mub brought from the land by the storm and within minutes turned the blue water brown. Amazing the speed it all happened.
We waited the rest of the day and next night for the seas to calm down.One or two boats tried to leave but came back. due to the sea state.
We were up early then next day and off back to Corsica. Day three and still on the boat.
Although this storm ( a viscious local squall really) came out of nowhere we handled it all OK, although no doubt will talk about it for a very long time to come. We were safe.
Later we heard that two lives were lost in the bay we had left, Marina Di Campo. Tragic.
We now are near the physical end of Corsica, coming down to Bonifacio, which is at the Southern tip and from where we will cross to Sardinia in a few days time
Our travels down the East coast of Corsica confirmed our thoughts on the Island. A beautiful coastline, interesting ports, good food and the jewel in the crown yet to come in Bonifacio at the Southern tip of the Island.
Our second anchorage on Corsica had been in Stagnolo bay near to Porto Vecchio just a few miles North of Bonifacio. I had seen the anchorage on a post card and decided too beautiful to miss. Expectations were great and disappointment big in that the water was not as blue or clear and mist hung over the surrounding mountains so no sun; just a worrying thunderstorm in the distance. Never mind, you cannot win them all, but it was free, quiet and only two other boats shared the bay with us that night. How do these photographers get these pictures so perfect?
But when we rounded the bottom of Corsica and into the Bonifacio straits the sight of the old walled town of Bonifacio, perched along the top of the cliff, was spectacular. The cliffs here have been eroded over the centuries and the old town sits on a large rocky overhang about eight meters deep over the sea. Amazing to think it is still intact and not fallen into the sea below. When you walk within the narrow streets of the old town you feel on solid ground but look over the cliff edge and along the coastline and the perspective it quite different.
Bonifacio is situated above and along a natural Calanque (deep natural fissure in the cliff). You cannot even see the entrance from the sea as it is curved. A ferry suddenly appearing ‘out of the cliff face’ showed us the entrance and as we passed through, the old town was high up above us on top of the sheer cliff face. Boats of all shapes and sizes, including super yachts, squeeze into the marina at the bottom end. Restaurants and shops line the bottom around the marina and one smaller calanque, full of anchored boats, spurs off from the main one just before the marina.
Walking up the steep streets to the old walled town you can feel why this town survived the centuries. Two huge wooden doors, now permanently open, guarded the town entrance over the moat and then a right angled passageway. The narrow streets are criss-crossed with stone bridges high up, seemingly keeping the walls upright and together while offering a passage between adjacent buildings. The whole of the town walls still are intact and you can walk alongside them around the cliff edges. The whole place has a feel of age. This is definitely a place not to miss.
Sardinia is only nine miles away at its nearest land point from Corsica. The straights of Bonifacio have a whole range of National Park islands, making the area very interesting visually. All shapes and sizes of Islands are dotted between the Sardinian and Corsican coasts. Boats anchor anywhere they can find a space or mooring buoy (a large number of the islands are protected from both people and boats entering their beaches). This is where the real turquoise water areas begin, around the Islands.
The North Coast of Sardinia is the beginning of the famous Costa Smerelda, and it is stunning.
Anchoring is a must in Sardinia. One the cost of Marina, prices quadruple in July and August (can be 100 euros plus a night for a boat our size!) but there are loads of beautiful bays with white sand and turquoise water, an anchoring heaven, as long as the weather remains good.
We have taken friends sailing, who have a holiday home in Sardinia near Santa Teresa in the North. Have had the first of family to stay; Sue and Rob in Olbia. Great to share these experiences first hand with others. We are now moving down the East coast to Cagliari at the bottom to pick up Amanda at end of the month.
We have also had another bad storm, but in La Caletta marina for this one, no thunder and lightning but very high winds, and it was still uncomfortable.
Sardinia like Corsica is very mountainous. Sardinia however has a more jagged mountain profile and seems more desiccated. Shrubs not grass, sandy or red mud paths and on some of the beach areas large conifers which give vast amounts of shade instead of the hordes of coloured umbrellas as in the Costa Smerelda area.
Still a lot more of Sardinia to see, as we will have circumnavigated it by the time our last guest arrives in August into Algherro and we leave there to head for Sicily.
We have been here over six weeks and we make tracks for Sicily today 23rd of
August. We have been from top to bottom along the East coast twice, collecting
and delivering people to Airports. We now feel that Olbia is a ‘home port’ and
even the marina staff there recognises us and the boat!
The Anchoring around the top of the Island ( Costa Smeralda) and the East
coast is wonderful. We now feel much more confident about the whole procedure
of anchoring, although we did somehow cut through our own stern anchor line on
our prop only two days ago. All well in the end but David had to dive in 5
meters of water to salvage the anchor and chain. Great fun trying to get it
back on board with lots of grunts and groans but we succeeded. Another lesson
learnt
There is nothing nicer than to be on the boat at anchor with no one along side
or even close to you. The views ranging from empty beaches with beautiful
sand, ( tourists go home at night!) distant mountains, woodlands and of course
setting suns and rising moons over the land or water. So peaceful.
We have crossed over the North ‘top’ and down the West coast. Once again we
could see Corsica through the haze in the distance when we passed back through
the Bonifacio straights. Seems like ages since we were there but in fact only
five weeks.
Italian motor boat drivers are the same as Italian cars drivers, they go fast,
as fast as they can irrespective of where they are. Any sailors out there know
the wash thrown up by these boats and how it rocks and rolls slower sailing
boats and little boats.
Coming through the National park islands, near the Magdelain Island in the
Bonifacio straits it was like the M1. We were up and down the waves and at one
point when hugh speed boats were thundering past on both sides of us we just
had to toss a coin as to which side to move to knowing that the other wake
would get us anyway.
We were glad to pass through and be going away from the crowds to the West.
But it is in this area of the straights and Costa Smeralda that you see the
super yachts. Hugh great beasts, up to four stories high, with all their crew
in uniforms and their tenders almost as big as our boat. It can cost them
thousands of pounds in just fuel for their two week holiday.
We stopped at Castelardo, a medieval Castle town. The houses, brightly
coloured,at various precarious angles, all bunched underneath the Castello on
the hill above. Very Pretty, Sintino, an old fishing village, further along the
coast we could not get into, but the small Islo Pina island, just above the
town, was amazing. The whole area so shallow around it that it was a sea,
literally of turquoise water. We have not seen such a vast area that colour.
Normally a strip only at the beaches as you go in to the shore into the
shallows. Our night there was quite magical.
Alghereo, on the West, was our last pick up point for visitors.
We liked Algherro more than the other large towns. Again a medieval walled
town. The five towers and a large area of original walls and houses still
remain. narrow cool streets to wander through and little shops and cafes to
linger at for a while in the shade. This are right above the harbour and we
were moored just below on the town quay. The hustle and bustle and colour of
this area is exhilarating. Everyone promenades in the evenings here. Street
musicians battle with the music from restaurants and discos hidden within the
back streets. people chatting, and the normal sounds of any port or holiday
area make it alive.
The West coast is much more rugged than the East. Very few villages but vast
areas of unoccupied beaches. The cliffs are tall ,very stark, very little bird
or wild life and very few sailing boats. This is not really the tourist side
of the island yet has its own charm.
We continued back to wards Cagliri down the West side and stopped at Caleforte
in the south West, for or jumping off point to Sicily.
We now have a weather window to cross to Sicily so off we go. This is the
longest leg we will have done. Approximately 44 hours so two nights at sea, 228
miles.
Will let you know how we far in the next posting.
Sicily 23rd Aug - 3rd Sept
Our 44 hour crossing to Sicily from Sardinia became only 40 hours. Good winds at the start from Caleforte, pushed us along at over 7 knots The first night very calm and peaceful. The moon was new so no light from that and thus the milky way and the millions of other stars were clearly visible during our night watches.
We both saw shooting stars although David insist he saw 12 during his watches to my two! Hmm.
The second night was not as peaceful. The wind started to pick up around 2.00am and thus the waves began. We were also ahead of schedule and needed to slow down a bit as we did not want to arrive off shore in the dark. Then the engine lights came on showing battery power low. The alternator was not working. Disaster as we needed the power to run the chart plotter, radar auto helm and our navigation lights. We turned off every thing except the nav lights and GPS and hoisted sails and of course now had to steer by hand!
We had a few uncomfortable hours until dawn with the sea and now only going 3 knots and away from land but could see the lights on the distant shore, so that was reassuring. Just after 8.30 we arrived at Capo San Di Vito just around the first cape on Sicily. We found a yacht club berth with electric power on the beach. Salvation , we could charge the batteries up and hope fully get to Palermo where they would have engineers to sort out our alternator, other wise we would not be going any further.
Next day we set off the 30 miles to Palermo.
Palermo is the capital of Sicily about half way along the North side of the Island. We had been warned it was dirty, run down and seedy. It had not been a, must visit, on our itinery and if we had not had this problem we would never have gone in. I am glad we did go.
There were unexpected treasures beneath the crumbling façade, broken pavements and air of lack investment.
Churches by the score, most 13 to 15 Centaury. Amazing frescos which were still intact, must be the dry heat that preserves them so well, also numerous religious relics . The cathedral in the town centre very unusual in both it’s shape and colour, pale brown almost sand stone and the Capella Palantina, a 12th century chapel within the Palazzo Reale, (the royal palace). The chapel is out of this world. Byzanteine with gold, silver, colourful enamelling and marble all of which look pristine. Walls and ceilings are covered with intricate religious mosaics depicting biblical scenes that are complete, fresh and bright. They look as if they were completed a few years ago not hundreds of years. The whole city has monuments , statues, interesting façades to the tall buildings. We could have spent a week here, lots we did not see.
Oh the alternator? Well we found a berth in Club Meditterraneo, a private yacht club in the old port, right in the heart of the town. As we arrived I told them of our problem. They were on the phone straight away and next day an engineer arrived. David had never seen anyone strip an alternator down so fast in his life. He went off with bits and the alternator, leaving us wondering would we ever see him again, only to return an hour or so later to put alternator back in place with new regulator and transistor pack installed. We had a working engine again!
We were so relieved. Greece was once again a possibility and we had power again. The helpfulness of the club people was marked with wine from us to them and received with the biggest smiles you could imagine.
The Aeolean Island of the North coast of Sicily was our next hop, 48 miles from Pelermo. Vulcano, the closest of the Islands, which still has an active crater, was our aim. We planned to anchor beneath the crater and this we did. The blue water was like a bath so warm when we went swimming. The crater towers above the bay, wisps of smoke coming out from the top and a faint hydrogen sulphide aroma tainting the air as we rolled at anchor. A beautiful spot.
We did not climb up to the crater top, the heat, steepness of the ascent, and the distance all conspired against us but gold starts to those who may have completed the climb. We enjoyed for below.
The Messina straits and into the Ionian sea, was our next hurdle if we were to leave Sicily and make the final jump to main land Italy before Greece.
Tidal streams, whirlpools, tidal bores( like the Severn river bore) were all factors to be sorted before we passed through into the straits.
The Tyrrenean sea and the Ionian sea meet in this area and due to differences in the two seas densities, the unevenness of the sea bed and the volume of water moving through a gap only 800metres wide at the top end, causes the renown effects in the straights.
Odysseus in the Odyssey passed this way and encountered Charybdis, the sucker down whirlpool of passing ships, and opposite Scilla, the creature that plucked men from ships and dolphins and sword fish direct from the sea.
We did not see any monsters but our normal 6 knots rose 10.3 at one point as we were carried through by the South going current. We were in the middle of agitated seas and could see the swirling pools where the water was literally being pushed up from below where the two seas met. It was quite an awesome experience. This is not an area to trifle with but to respect. We threw coin to Neptune or is it Poseidon, to appease the gods and had a safe passage through.
We were now in the Ionian sea.
We wait on main land Italy at Crotone for a weather window to cross to Greece.
To date in the Mediterranean we have sailed through five seas, Ligurian, Corsican, Sardinian, Tyrrhenian and now Ionian and not forgetting where we started from, the Golfe Du Lion.
Main land Italy to Greece 4th – 9th September
Our plan was to call into Crotone, on the inside of the heel of Italy, to pick up fuel, after passing through the Messina straits, before continuing across Toranto bay to Greece
During the night, as we motored up the Italian coast we were hits by bad squalls about 4.00am. Again not forecast. It turned out the Golfo Di Sqillace is infamous for the local wind effects off the mountains and this was our position at 4.00am . Hence bay of squalls! We did not know this or we would have stayed much further out to sea and missed the experience!. Another thing learnt.
We arrived in Crotone at 10.00am very tired to get fuel. A thing we never do is fill up with water and get fuel at the same time, both the filler caps bring on the same side of the boat. This time we did and instead of sailing off to Greece about 11.00am on that Friday we finally sailed the following Wednesday.
Three things happened. We ended up with water in out fuel and engine as the water overflowed and ran down the side of the boat straight into the open fuel inlet.
We had to have the full fuel tank filtered and cleaned and a mechanic to get the water out of the engine and get it working again as we had tried to start it and pulled the water through into the engine. Learning curve getting steeper by the day.
Next a three day wind, force 6 to 7 from the North Adriatic which came in on the Saturday and raised the seas amazingly, preventing any one going anywhere.
Then a 60 foot boat, twice our length and width, arriving late on the Saturday, coming in along side us and crunching against us in the wind thus bending our davits and push pit. Our solar panels, attached to the davits, luckily remained intact but now were skewed at an strange angle to the rest of the boat but the dingy can still hang from them as normal.
The boat owners insurance will pay and every one was amicable in the end but if you had heard the shouting and screaming at the time and people appearing from other boats to try and fend him off ours, you would have thought differently.
However we are mobile and can continue our journey but we cannot believe that this could happen to us twice, as we had had one set of davits squashed and replaced on the canals last year, at Rouen
So all in all Crotone and the Italian main land, will be remembered with a mixture of feelings.
Finally we departed, on the Wednesday, into a lumpy but flattening sea for our last 24 hour passage aiming at Corfu 150 miles away.
It was a great feeing to see the outline of Corfu appearing through the haze mid day the next day. Greece was a reality and we would be on Greek soil that evening.
We choose to go into a marina just North of Corfu town and spend a couple of day relaxing ,swimming in the pool at the marina, sampling Greek cuisine and revisiting Corfu using the local bus after our passage.
The following few days found us going back to places we had visited on our first Flotilla in 1998, Sayiadha and Mourtos ( now called Sivota) being the first two as we passed down the coast heading towards Preveza our winter berth.
A lot had changed but much was the same, but this is for another day.
,
Greece. 10th – 21st September
Well we had finally made it. I thought we had travelled just under 2000 miles since launch in Port Napoleon on the 21th May but the log stated 2675 miles when we down loaded it in Preveza.
Preveza, on the Greek mainland, is our winter base for the boat.
We have had a great time reminiscing and going back to some of the places we visited on our first flotilla.
Sayiadha, just below the Greece Albanian border, was our first stop after Gouvia on Corfu. The harbour had a very run down look as I peered through binoculars, on our approach, trying to make out familiar points on the shore. There was one small yacht in the corner beside the entrance, two large fishing boats, one each along side the two other walls and a few small motor boats lined the quay beneath the Tavernas. Sayiadha harbour is a square and in effect it was empty! The beautiful twin lamp standards lining the harbour( a subject of a painting by David after our first visit) had been broken or not now lighting up and no one seemed to be on shore. Where were the flotilla boats and other cruising yachts which had made it difficult to find a space to sample the locally caught fish? You can see the Albanina border from the harbour on the hills above and may be this had scared people away
We anchored outside and I continued to peer at the harbour. We decided that the entrance had been replaced and looked very narrow so may be not for us at all.
Then I noticed that the boat in the corner was flying a Welsh flag and he had binoculars trained on us! That was it, into the dinghy and ashore to meet a fellow Welsh man.
Needless to say after a short chat and beer ashore with our new friend we eventually took our boat in, just enough depth for us. May be this was the reason for the lack of boats, it was now quite shallow.
That evening we ate ashore.We had Calamari and wonderful Bass all fresh that day. Good conversation and company topped with a very peace full quite night that cost us nothing for the mooring. looking behind the façade of Sayiadha it was good to be back.
Our next stop was Mourtos, further down along the Main land. It has now changed it’s name to Sivota ( not to be confused with the Sivota on Lefkas Island!). This used to be the start point for all our flotillas in the North. In comparison to Sayiadha this had grown, Green covered slopes now had apartments and villas covering the hills surrounding the harbour bringing yellows, red and white into the palate of colours. Even the harbour had been enlarged to accommodated more yachts and tripper boats.
We chose to anchor in a small bay around the corner from the port. Very peaceful and surrounded by trees, and no people. Our first time to tie a long line ashore to the rocks while using the bow anchor to hold us in line with the shore. David nearly drowned himself swimming with a heavy 25 metre rope to the shore and trying to pull the boat after him to line it up. Success this time but dingy to be used next time to save wear and tear on David.
The next morning we took the dinghy to the shore and walked over the hill into the harbour. We found the ‘Blue Coast Taverna’, still in the corner of the quay, and run by the same family. This had been the base for the start and end of the flotillas. The orange juice and toast still tasted as good now as then. We stayed for two days soaking up the peaceful anchorage. It really seeps undr your skin.
Next stop the island of Paxos below Corfu. Here Lakka bay with it’s green water was our objective. This was and still is a very popular location. Tripper boats and ferries come from other islands and the mainland daily so the population swells each morning and reduces in the evening.
The whole bay is surrounded by gentle hills covered by olive trees and although there had been much building here it seemed to be reasonably well hidden within the trees. Tavernas and bars line the quay, plus small boats but there is some space for yachts at the one side. There are also small beaches as the bay curves around and a great walk around the hills through the trees to over look the green water bay and over to the main land, Antipaxos and Corfu.
There were lots of boats and jostling for anchor space in the bay, but we all fitted in the end, although we had to reset our anchor three times before we got it to hold.
The end of the season was starting to become evident in the weather starting to chill a little in the evenings and it is now dark by 7.30am.
We again ate ashore and found a family run Taverna for Butter beans( typical in the North of Greece) and moussaka. Another winner.
Our few days holiday had now used all our spare time and so we reluctantly headed from Paxos back to the mainland and down towards Lefkas and Preveza.
Our final sail for the year was a very slow one with little wind and we motored most of the 38 miles. The red and green buoys marking the channel entrance only to soon became visible in the distance but we were already talking about where we would be going next year and would we go back up North before we passed through the Lefkas canal towards Cephalonia and Ithica
Never satisfied are we?
We were only home for just over 2 weeks and mainly it was seeing the family. The two Grand daughters have grown so much since we saw them in May.
Isla, Ben and Nia’s daughter is now walking completely unaided. She is not quite 14 months and has been on her feet since 8 months old.
Emily, Sian and Simon’s daughter is 3 weeks older and scoots around the place on her bottom, pulling herself up on the furniture but not yet walking , but not long now. It is great fun seeing them together and getting to know them again. Both are speaking in their own languages which is fun to listen to and try to interpret.
We should not wish them to grow up too quickly but I suppose that is the way we all are with our grandchildren and children.
Really looking forward to Christmas and more time with them.
Well we were only back in the UK for 2 weeks before we were off again.
This time back to Spain, but in an apartment on dry land, for 2 months.
We took the ferry from Portsmouth to Santandare, crossing Biscay. The 24 hours passage, was really smooth and relaxing, leaving us only a 5 hour drive, on arrival in Spain to Madrid. We had not managed to get to Madrid last year and it was still a must do on our list.
The city lived up to expectations. Lots of open spaces, parks and trees and plenty of interesting architecture,all accessible by foot, metro and buses.
The Prado art museum was our first venue. Goya, Velasquez and Bosch being the top of our agenda. We were not disappointed. You could spend days here and still want more, but one day was all we allocated ourselves.
The building in itself is worth a walk around the outside, to see the overall architecture, various statues and all surrounded by in trees.
Still on the art theme Picasso’s Guernica ( another must) was in the Sofia modern art gallery and thus part of day 2 was another Gallery and more walking but that afternoon we had a typical tourist city tour which put every thing into context .
Sad for us the bull ring had just closed for the season as I would have loved to see a bull fight. The bull ring building, we saw on the tour. It was very impressive and ornate, seating some 20,000, second only to Mexico. Real Madrid were also playing at home that day and we had a good view of the packed stadium and general activity in the area as we passed in our bus.(They won 2-1)
On our last day, we took a train 50Km out of Madrid to EL Escorial Monastery and Royal palace. This is from the golden age of Spain and was began in 1562. The hugh Basilica was consecrated in 1596 although building was complete by 1584. This all began in the reign of Phillip 11. It is a hugh complex in 20,500 hectares, still used by the royal family and home to Augustinian monks.
The art collection here is world renown, many items from the late 1400’s. 15 and 16 centaury frescos, painted ceilings, walls, tapestries are unbelievable all in one place. The Kings Pantheon (tomb area) holds the bodies of all the royals from that time and space is there for the present King and Queen of Spain, quite an amazing sight.
We left Madrid pleased we had made the effort to visit.
Travelling South back to La Azohia was like going home. The area was familiar and we knew good walking and renewing old acquaintances would be on the agenda.
We went for 4 days and returned after one full day due to our bad experience on arriving at the hotel. We were unfortunately at the receiving end of thieves.
We had arrived in daylight at our hotel and while taking luggage from the boot were distracted by a youth. he was asking directions to the station. While we talked to him an accomplice stole bags from our open boot. computer Cam corder and camera gone in the two bags grabbed! Other bits as well on reflection.
Very sad, sick feeling. So simple and easily done.
At the police station, where we spent most of the day, we heard such horrific tales, physical muggings and knives used that we felt this was not the place for us.
The city seemed to be great and full of potential treasures. Gaudi's cathedral we did see and the port area. May be we will come again, who knows.
Our two months in Spain is almost at an end. The time has flow.
The weather this year has been so much warmer that last year. T shirts and shorts are still all we need when we go walking. We still see families and individuals on the beaches and swimming in the sea, although we have not been that brave, only paddled. Our favourite coastal path route has been closed, due to repairs, so we have had to venture further a field and explore.
I returned to my Spanish classes and besides the social aspect I feel I am finally enjoying learning the language. I might even continue when we return home. Although I now have so many bits of languages roaming around in my head that some times a single sentence can contain bits of four different ones. It can be very confusing for everyone.
We have continued to visit local museums and cultural sites. It is great to learn more about the area and its history and we have the time to potter around. Roman and Punic remains are common in this area. The remains of Roman baths in Isla Plana had been closed last year but this week we found them open and could finally get inside for a look around. We also returned to Capo Tinoso and David had fun with one of the guns, back to childhood I think!
We are both looking forward to coming back home, not the weather though, but to finally spend some time with the family. We have been spoilt here and during our travels this year on the boat with blue skies and sun almost every day.
The blog will continue as there is always lots going on with the family and Christmas is first on the agenda. I will be off again to Australia in March 2010 as Sue and Rob are returning to OZ. and we will be continuing our travels on the boat from May 2010 in and around the Greek Islands. Who knows where we might be next autumn but I will be popping to Canada for a birthday party in October!. Lots more to come and for me to write about.
We arrived back in the Uk on the 20th December. We had a beautiful drive through the mountains up to Zaragossa. It had already snowed in this area and the views were spectacular as we drove along the mountain roads. It was snowing the next morning when we left for Bilbao and we hoped we would get to the coast. We had no problems as the snow ploughs were out in force. Again superb scenery and little did we know it but a foretaste of the weather to come in Britain.
We arrived in Bilbao early enough to venture out into the cold and go around the Maritime museum and the Guggenheim museum. The Guggenheim is an architectural wonder all by itself. Everything is curved, inside and out. Vast open light spaces house the exhibits. Very little of the modern art interested me but it was good to see something a little different and the building itself was a joy to walk around.
We were a little anxious for our 29hour crossing of Biscay as storms were predicted. We did have gales for a while, during the night, but the ship was so hugh and had stabilisers, which damped down the motion, so we hardly felt anything at all. It was very pleasant. We even went down to one of the bars and joined in a pub quiz, great fun and also went to the cinema. It was not really like being on a normal ferry more a mini cruise.
This was our first Christmas with the grandchildren. What a difference that makes to Christmas, even though they were too young to really understand what it was all about. Helping them to open their presents and then the fun of playing with their toys was great. No one could tell us off for being daft.
The sad aspect was that Sue left for OZ on the 7th January. The worry was the snow and would we get her to Birmingham airport. We had to dig the car out of the drive the day before. We prayed no snow would fall over night and it didnt. We had also tried to make tracks up our road, which helped the final escape on the ice and snow the following morning. No problems once on the main roads and a straight drive to the Airport. Amazing to see the whole countryside, mile after mile covered in a white blanket of snow.
Great for her to be back with Rob , as he had gone out at the beginning of November. Still only 10 weeks and I will be out there with them both and hopefully, by then, Grandchild number 3.
With Sue gone it was time to unpack all the storage boxes that had been piled in the dining room and study and try to get our house back to a home. It is a bit like a jigsaw puzzle, the garage and attic being full of stuff as well and it is still ongoing. I think it will be weeks before we are finally straight.
Coming back to a house after 2 years away has its maintenance issues. The heating broke down, the shower stopped working, the bath tap jammed and we had frozen pipes from the bath which poured water into the down stairs cloakroom, when we had a shower, as the water could not get away through its normal route. Not nice, now repainting the loo has to be factored in.
Thoughts of care carefree Spain and Greece re-emerged during all this, but they are also in the grip of winter, so no comfort there.
My aim now is to get the house straight and then meet up with friends and family once more to find out their news and reminisce.
How time flies!
The 5th January 2010 will long remain in my thoughts. Our heating was fixed and we could roast our toes on the radiators once again and emerge from the layers of clothing.
Jobs still were still lining up to be done but nothing seemed so bad with heat once more.
It has been amazing to see the development of the grandchildren. They grow so quickly.
Now both walking, talking and learning and using the NO word so easily. I have spent some lovely Grannie hours looking after and playing with them.
Our book writing is well under way and beginning to take over our lives. I am sure we will heave a big sigh of relief when we finally write the last word. I am amazed how long it is taking and so glad I kept the daily diary and Log, we could never have attempted to do this without all those records. Whether we can get it published will e the big job.
Not long until my trip to OZ . Sue left on the 6th Jan. The baby is due this weekend 6th March so we wait with bated breath every time the phone rings.
The work for the boat never stops. We have two boxes which we are filling with all sorts of things ready to get shipped off to Greece. We have found a 'White vanman' who does delivery trips once a year to our marina. Just luck talking to the right people and we found out about him.
Our bent Davit ( damage from Crotone) has also been fixed and we have our new solar panels, so we ca nnow anchor for days in the beautiful Greek island bays. Have to keep dreaming of sun and warm seas, while it is cold here.
William Armstrong Hopkins arrived on 7th March at 03.15 am UK time.
Weighing in at a massive 8 lbs 4 ozs.
Sue and Baby William are both fine.
I am going out 22nd March for 4 weeks, cannot wait to hold him,
We have talked and videoed linked through Skype.Brings everyone so close it's great.
Rob is taking lots of videos and Pictures and enjoying being a new dad
Well only three days left and I will be on the plane back to the UK. I cannot believe how quickly time has flown.
William, the main reason for my travels , is growing madly, already over 10lbs and really alert. We are waiting for the first smile before I fly off but who knows.
Sue and I, with William in toe, have been all over the place. Up and down Ocean road. and when Rob is not working he joins us. We went up to the Jarra. Here are the main wineries of Victoria. Fantastic experience as we stopped at a couple just to taste then at the third where we had lunch. A 5 star experience( also the price!!).
Sue and Rob and their friends from Melbourne have been surfing, I've been baby sitting on the sand but no complaints from me. beautiful beaches,blue water and sun and grandchild, what more can I want.
David and I only managed to see road kill last time but this time I have seen real wild Koalas in their gum trees. They don't move much but I saw them!
My sister and her husband were in Oz for a Wedding in Perth but they flew over to Melbourne and spent a night with us . Great to see them, two years since we last saw each other and I will be staying with them in Vancouver in October.
I have also been to all the baby medical checks and met new friend's of Sue's so will be able to picture places and people when she talks about them later.
I'm in daily email and telephone contact with David so am kept updated on events back home and the weather... not so good!
When I get back, straight to Sian's to see our latest Grandson Evan. I will eventually get back to David and Wales on 24th April. Then 2nd May off to Greece.
Will enjoy the rest!
One week early Evan Boyd Thompson arrived in Southampton on 3rd April 2010.
He weighed 7lbs.1oz and has dark hair like his Dad Simon and does not have the Davies/Boyd chin.
Sian doing well and big sister Emily has quickly got used to a new baby brother.
Cannot believe we have gone from 2 grand children to 4 within 3 weeks!
How many more to come?
Here in OZ William is growing fast and is soooooo good still.
Loving the weather here , sunny and warm, although going into Autumn now. Hearing the stories from David of the poor weather in the UK so making the most of it.
Well the effects of the ash cloud from Iceland stopped my flight home on the 19th April.
Luckily I was staying with family so have not had the hassle and money problems which have affected some travellers. I could have been stuck in Kuala Lumpar with no help from the airline, which would not have been funny. I had never thought of natural disasters's occurring some where else in the world actually affecting me. May be this is something we will have to get used to in the future.
My extended time in OZ has also prevented me seeing and helping with my newest Grandson, Evan, I was due in Southampton on the 20th April for 5 days. Now all I will manage will be a 'fly through' on my way back from the airport on the 29th April. I am very disappointed and I know Sian is as well.
Victoria, in OZ , where I am staying, has had a very unusual hot April, quite out of character as this is the start of their winter. I have had lovely warm weather and we have been on the beach more than normal for this time of year.
I've borrowed a wet suit and been in the surf. Trying to stand has been difficult enough due to the strength of the waves but fun.
I have taken some much better Koala pictures so have put those on the site and me in a wet suit.a sight not to be missed!
I am looking forward to getting home now, amazing how you do miss the place however great the place you are staying.
Boat yards are marvellous places. Constant noise from people and machinery, dust blowing in the breeze covering every crevice in the boat you have just cleaned, meeting and greeting with all nationalities who are like minded about sailing and boats, the hard work getting the boat ready for sea again and then the evening shower followed by the glass of wine in the cockpit and then maybe the local Taverna for a meal. Preveza marine is no exception to the rules on boat yards.
Preveza Marine is on the opposite side of the Gulf of Amvrakikos to Preveza town .An underwater tunnel now joins the two but a very rusty old car ferry was the only communication just a few years ago. As the air port is on Preveze Marine side there was no alternative other than a long long drive around the gulf on tiny pot holed roads. We have fond memories travelling on the ferry when we first came sailing to this area in 1998. We always felt the holiday had started when the black smoke belched out of the engines and the boat moved forward into the channel. A tunnel is not the same.
We were on the first plane into Preveza Airport for the season, this year, and thus found very few small places open in our first few days meandering around the region.
The site of the boat yard, at Aktio ( Aktium) is where Anthony and Cleopatra first amassed their armies and their boats. The fleet floated in the channel between the mainland and the yard, when getting ready to fight Octavius(later Augustus Ceaser).Only six kilometres outside Preveza town is the ancient city of Nikopolis. Octavius built this city after his victory over them. The hugh walls running alongside the main road for a few kilometres are still forbidding. Around 15 feet high in places with great arch ways leading into the ancient city. Temples with complete mosaic floors, foundations of many buildings and part of a paved Roman road can still be seen amidst the wild flowers, nettles and slithering lizards. An Odeon (open air theatre), stadium for games and the remain of octavius’s palace can still be wandered round. The views from the palace are spectacular, as it sits high above the town and looks down on Preveza over the water channel to Lefkas and on one side is the Ionian sea and the other the Gulf of Amvrakikos. What a view and strategic position for Octavius looking down on the army and fleets amassing below him. Not bad for us humble tourists either.
Driving towards Lefkas along the small winding coast road, the bright blue water is very shallow near the shore and in places marshy. An old fisherman’s church sits proudly on a small raised sandy island only a few hundred meters from the shore. It was Sunday morning and the sound of singing floated through the air. We had stopped to look at the view and realised that a small congregation were on the beach to one side of the church and a service was taking place in the open air. The boats that had taken the worshipers to the island lay bobbing in the tiny waves on the far side of the island. It did not seem real but it was not a trick for the tourists, this was Sunday worship, but by boat Greek style.
A car was essential for vitiating the boat as you cannot walk through the tunnel and there are no shop near the yard.
Work on the boat and trips to find supermarkets soon became interwoven but too soon the car had to go back and we focused all our time on the boat. It’s always amazing how much there is to do and one job often sporns two more!
Saturday 15th May is D day but will all go to plan? We will tell you later.
16th May – 2nd June
Preveza to Chephalonia
Weather changes plans. The day before launch storms were predicted over the following two days, so we postponed until Monday 17th.Glad we did as the whole yard became a wind blown pool instead of a dry sandy basin and small waves were breaking over the pontoons in the adjacent marina. Full wet weather gear and wellies were needed for a trip to the loo!
But Monday dawned bright with a blue sky and Aderyn Glas was trundled in the travel sling to the water and plopped in. The engine started first try but then an alarm bell started ringing. We had no cooling water flow through the engine. We stopped the engine and had to physically pull ourselves from the launch area around to the other side as more boats were being launched after us. After a few minutes we found the problem and re-orientated the new impeller. Water could now flow and we could restart the engine and move off.
Relief was evident. The seas were still choppy but tenable in the channel and the wind had moderated to a stiff breeze. Lefkas canal was only 6 miles away and we hoisted the sails for the first sail of the season. A great run to the head of the canal to await the lifting bridge when it opened on the hour. We felt elated to feel the water back beneath the keels, the boat surging through the water and be pushed along by the wind, freedom at last. But David felt sea sick.
As the bridge swung on it’s axis opening the channel, the prospect of the Islands to explore and bays to anchor in opened up before us, but we were only going a few hundred meters further to the marina. We wanted to explore Lefkas and the anchorages would have to wait a few days.
Lefkas town had been partially pedestrianised and modernised, loosing some of it’s original charm of 10 years previous, but this is progress and it’s happening everywhere. The weather was also taking a turn for the worst and our escape from Preveza was only a temporary respite in the weather. Thunder storms, where the visibility from one pontoon to the next was lost, lightning which gave us our own laser show in the skys and the force of the rain showing up leaks we never thought we had kept us in Kefkas for four nights before we could move on. The third week in Greece and that week, a wash out.
When we finally felt we could leave we made our way to Tranquil bay further down Lefkas Island.
As the name suggests a beautiful anchorage, well sheltered, but everyone wants to go there and we were lucky to get a spot. We spent the next three nights swinging at anchor and using the dingy to get into the village of Nidri across the water. Calm, peaceful and beautiful.
Meganisi Island lies parallel with Lefkas and Spartakhori,a bay on the North end, was our next stop. One Taverna at the end of the bay had been our mooring 12 years ago, now, still only one Taverna, but the quay had been developed to take about 20 boats, not three, so lots of space but the atmosphere and ambience has not been destroyed. We re-walked the winding steep road, through the Pine trees, up to the village on the hill above the bay. The views were still spectacular and we rephotographed the pannorama. We ate at the Taverna, being served by the same men of a decade past, grey in their hair now but food still as good. Soon time to move on, Chephalonia our next stop, more of Meganisi on our return journey.
Fiskardo, a picturesque fishing village on the North of Chephalonia. It survived the devastating earthquakes that hit the Islands in 1953 due to it’s limestone foundations. It’s Venitian architecture surviving, although most is now hidden by the umbrellas, awnings, tables and chairs of the restaurants which cover the quay side and any free space in front of the multicoloured brightly painted buildings. It’s charm is partly the colours, the fact that you moor your boats with their bows literally in between the tables and can jump ashore and sit down to eat. Float in water as clear and clean as drinking water, even with all the traffic, and be surrounded with lush green vegetation on the small hills that surround the harbour. Charming.
Four days later we let the wind fill our sails and were pushed further down Chephalonia to Sami.
New to us, Sami proved to be another gem. Again the typical square harbour, in front of lines of colourful umbrellered restaurants where boats line up side by side along the inside but here, one complete harbour for local boats and one for the visitors, what luxury.
Caves are found all over these Islands but Sami boast two spectacular systems, both within walking distance of the town. The Dhrogarati, a hot dusty three mile one way walk to the North and the Melissani lake a gentle mile to the East.
The Dhrogarati is a vast cathedral like cavern which you enter by walking down steep concrete steps through a natural hole in the hillside. The temperatures drops with each downward step and the air smells cool and musty. The steps finish on a plateaux from which the whole cavern is visible in front, above, all around you. The stalagmites hang from above and stone curtain formations unfold to the floor, many of the stalactites have lost their tips and are stumpy lumps sticking upwards from the uneven floor. Water runs downs the walls and the constant dripping can be both felt and heard as you wander around.
Melissani, in contrast is a lake at the end of a short walk way down through a small tunnel. Ahead, an natural rock archway frames the blue water of the lake beyond. Part of the roof has fallen in allowing the sunlight in, reflecting in the water to gives various shades of blue and turquoise. Small wooden boats await you at a tiny jetty. Squeezed in with 12 others you are rowed around the crystal clear water of the lake and through a small gap into another smaller chamber beyond the initial one. Another roof fall restricts the space in this second chamber but stalagtites and stalagmites are still present, although the water colour is now dark blue grey.
Hiring a car for a day we drove through the mountains to the far West and the tiny village of Assos. This is the most picturesque place we have been so it will have it’s own blog space next post.
As we negotiated yet another hairpin bend we saw our goal, Assos far below us.
The few houses, apartments and travernas were strung along a thin curved ithmus between the mainland and the castle on the massif. The water, in the enclosed small harbour, shades of emerald green and cerulean blue.
The road ended at the base of a paved walk way which zigzagged up the hill, through the olive trees, to the hugh castle walls running along the top. The stone facade and arched gateway promised much but beyond the walls very little of the castle remained. It was very hot and we wandered through the wooded walled area finding a modern abandoned monastery, a crumbling stone watch tower but no pathway to the actual castle. This still sat above us projecting in from the sheer walls over looking us and the sea. Dejected we had to make do with the picturesque scenery as a whole. Still the walk was good for us, uphill in the heat!
We made full use of the car that day visiting Argostoli, the actual town of the Italian invasion, the basis for Captain Correli’s Mandolin. Poros, a port we had stayed in on a previous flotilla and crossing the mountains, in the centre of the Island, for a greenery and hills fix, before back to Sami and the boat.
From Cephalonia we finally sailed to Ithaca . Sailing was becoming more motoring as the winds were very variable and light. We put up our cruising shute ( very large colourful thin sail used in very light aires) to catch what breeze we could find to Sail from Big Vathi to Kioni on Ithaca. We were so intent on playing with the sail that we drifted right past Kioni and only realised our mistake, when coming into the harbour, when we saw that all the land marks were wrong. We were in Frikes a few miles up the coast. We hurriedly turned back around the headland and into Kioni, hoping no one had spotted our mistake.
Kioni is another beautiful spot. White painted houses are layered through the hills and trees, surrounding the bay, Shaded taverna tables encroach on the quay side and the sea sparkles. We stayed here four nights, so peaceful and pretty.
In 1953 devastating earth quakes hit the whole of the Ionian. In most villages and towns you can still see abandoned ruined houses among the new. Some places were completely destroyed and left abandoned, Port Leone on Kalamos Island being one. Assos was rebuilt with money from the French and named it’s single main street Paris in recognition. In most other places you come across the ruins as you walk around.
Kastos and Kalamos are two very small inhabited islands between the mainland and Ithaca. We found a beautiful unspoilt bay just south of the small port of Kastos. We tried to anchor. 12 times we tried and we could not get our anchor to hold in the very soft sand and weed. David even swopped our stern and bow anchors over. Still no good so defeated we left heaven behind and went into the small port. Even here everyone was dragging their anchors, but we would not be defeated this time. We ended up with using both bow and stern anchors and hoped the wind would not blow up too strongly. They held us for two days while we enjoyed another island’s charm.
There was still no wildlife in the sea, except for the small coloured fish which surround the boats in all anchorages and ports, but in Port Leone, the abandoned village on Kalamos, we found some thing new. Woken form sleep at anchor by the tinkling of goat bells an unexpected sight met our eyes. Black outlines stark against the white rocks of the bay,some heads down drinking, others on hind legs feeding off the lower leaves of the small trees. A herd of goats gave us an early alarm call.
Meganisi.
Shaped like a comma with many deep inlets, tentacles sprouting from it’s head end, Meganisi is a wonderful island for anchoring. There are only three small villages, Spartahori, Little Vathi and Katomeri. Spartahouri, I have mentioned already and we have visited twice this season, we love it so much. We have walked from Spartahori along the dusty winding coast road, through the olive, and pine trees, to Little Vathi. Only 45 minutes away but in the Greek heat ( 30+C), even with loads of water, hats and the will to complete it, it’s a killer. You can go in by boat but we had to be different and learnt the hard way. Still we relaxed in the ‘Rose Garden’ a Taverna (It really did have large pots of roses between the tables and rambling roses in the overhead trellises ) with a cool drink before retracing our steps. We were sure someone had put more headlands into the path when we plodded back to Spatahouri. We will visit Vathi next time by boat and go into yet another small town quay harbour but the easier way.
We anchored in Port Atheni, a double headed bay, deep in the last tentacle of Meganisi before you run down the comma tail and fall off the end.
Atheni, when we were there 13 years ago, was just a double bay and you anchored anywhere, now one of the bays has been developed. Tavernas, mini market, quay sides, even Internet access is available. Is this progress or are we being selfish when we see these changes?
How you anchor varies from place to place. If the water is reasonable deep, 10 meters or more or space is restricted within the anchorage area, we take a long line ashore to hold the stern in place and put out the bow anchor. This stops the boat turning. If there is plenty of room to swing around the anchor we just drop the ‘hook’, the bow anchor, and pull it deep into the bottom to hold us in place. In Atheni we took a rope to the shore. This means one of us had to row the dingy into the shore and scramble into the rocks or trees to find something to tie the rope around. Normally David is volunteered, I drive the boat. I have been forced to take my turn but this is not my favourite job as rocks often jump out of the water and grab my oar, getting them stuck, or the wind gets up and catches the big boat taking it further from the shore, so I am rowing like mad getting nowhere with a rope that is now not long enough to span the distance. Still we get there in the end.
The last village is Katomeri, no harbour just a collection of old houses scattered high up, in a cleft in the hill side looking out towards the sea at the tail end of the island to the East. You can walk to it from Port Atheni or any of the other bays. No tourism here, seemingly a Greek village going about it’s every day life. People greeted us –Kalamera or Yassos- good morning, hello. Here we found a passion flower clematis in flower and it’s fruit just turning from green to orange on the trellis. Really beautiful. We also met the fruit and veg ‘man’, a small flat bed truck filled with boxes of local seasonal fruit and veg, in amongst which was a flat pan scales and weights. The noise of the horn brought customers from behind their shuttered doors and windows into the street. Traditional and modern mixed, not everything lost.
Meganisi an irregular shaped Island with many surprises.
It’s a gem! Only 20 miles long and 10 miles at its widest, the Gulf of Amvrakika is a relatively unexplored haven in Greece.
It lies inland from Preveza town and you approach it through a narrow buoyed channel just north east of Preveza town moorings. It’s so quiet it’s like entering another world. Comparatively few boats venture this far inland and if you are lucky you will see dolphins, turtles and many different species of birds
Most boats which venture this far visit Vonitsa. It is famous for the ruins of a thirteenth century Venetian castle perched majestically on the hill above the harbour. The castle has survived the many earthquakes and the ravages of the elements over hundreds of years and overlooks the town, dominating the view from the sea.
The high, thick stone walls remain intact with their many crenellations and long narrow slits which archers used to shoot through. There are remains of arched windows and precarious stone stairs running up and down to the various levels. Weeds grow out of the cracks and crevices and the paths are uneven and stony but even today the walls are still protecting the inner keep, citadel and church as they did ages ago. You can wander the ruins in the heat, hear the bees buzzing in the wild flowers and see the beautiful views over the harbour, town, countryside and out to the gulf while you walk the ramparts and explore the site
We anchored near Vonitsa, behind a tree-covered Island, Koukouvista, joined to the mainland by a many arched stone bridge. It is only a ten minute dinghy ride from this anchorage, squeezing under one of the bridge arches and then along the shore, to the town, for lunch or to by supplies.
During the week we were in the gulf the wind came up around midday and switched off again before seven in the evening. It was lovely for an afternoon of sailing and exploring over the flat empty water.
The backdrop to the gulf is one of small grey hills topped with green scrub and behind them the paler mountain ranges of the mainland. A haze often hides the mountains in the mornings giving a mysterious feel to the area
At Ormos Paliomilon we shared a huge shallow anchorage with just three other boats The anchorage was about three and a half miles wide and one and a quarter long. There were no houses, no village, no town, just a taverna at the end of a small track. It was such surprise to find this place.
Below Dervisis point we anchored with a stern-line ashore in a small rocky bay surrounded by olive and cypress trees. At the entrance to the bay there was a small, virtually empty, beach taverna sitting on the rocky point with tables and chairs spread out on the narrow shoreline. There were no other boats in the area, just a small fish farm hidden in a smaller bay on the other side of the point. A few people swam in the water in front of the taverna, hats on their heads, typical it seems of the Greeks on holiday. The first time we saw this phenomenon we thought we had discovered new bird life or were they buoys to tie up to?. We came here for a lunch stop but returned later to stay the night ,It was so secluded and peaceful an anchorage
Besides Vonitsa the only other towns of significance are Amfilochia to the south east and Menidi to the north of the gulf.
Amfilochia lies at the bottom of a long narrow inlet, and the prevailing winds blow straight down it making it a very uncomfortable place for a sailing boat. The town has recently built three pontoons for tourists. They jut out from the side of the inlet with a wave breaker beyond that but there were no boats moored on them. In the town colourful pavement cafes and restaurants paraded along the sea front. The houses and a few apartment blocks jostled for position on the small flat shoreline, but most were set into the hillside behind. Amfilochia looked very inviting through the binoculars, but the afternoon combination of wind and waves had created a very uncomfortable sea state, The visitors pontoons had started to bob like mad and did not appeal as a place to spend the night. Sadly we left them behind and returned to Makrianiti for a quiet solo night in the bay.
Menidi at the north end was another picturesque quiet little town. The buildings again confined within the small flat area of land at the base of the hills behind. The thin strip of sandy beach on the other side of the town was again full of the statutory coloured umbrellas and sun loungers. The water in front of the sandy strip and the whole bay was full of bobbing hats of various colours and sizes. Had to take a picture there were so many of them We were only peeping at the town, not wanting to stay here, as we were on the lookout for sea birds and the river entrance to Arta
The water is deep at the entrance to the gulf but towards the north around Menidi it becomes very, very shallow and there are many sandbanks. These are constantly moving; being formed at the mouth of the river Araxthos which empties into the gulf. As we approached the river mouth we saw many trees and branches in the water, some with roosting birds perched on their boughs. We motored towards them to take pictures and see them close up and almost ran aground as the depth suddenly shot up to 1.7m when we had been in 17m a few seconds earlier. We had found the sand banks indicated on the charts. David immediately did a U-turn and we took a wide arc away from the river mouth and the birds. It was a sobering near miss for us.
A little later we thought we saw a swan in the distance on the water, but as we got closer we saw it was a pelican. We were so delighted that we stayed to watch it for ages until it flew off.
The gulf was a delight, giving us a fresh perspective on this area of Greece.
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We arrived home from Greece on 11th July. We were sad to leave the boat but it was starting to get very hot and more and more people were arriving. We like it quite so that we can anchored or stop anywhere without any fuss, so time for a break.
Life has been hectic since we got back. Isla and Emily have both had their second birthday parties. A weekend in Southampton and a BBQ bash for Emily and two weeks later a weekend in Powys. Another BBQ with lots of family, friends and little children! I am in my element but it is not David’s cup of tea. He’s waiting for all the kid’s to be independent and grown up...
Sue and Sian were 34 on 6th August and had a surprise birthday tea from their brother when we all arrived for Isla's party weekend. Great fun for the adults as well as the kids.
Sue and Rob, with William, are over from Australia, Rob for a month Sue for two months, so they all have been travelling around the country seeing family and friends. Rob went back at the end of July, due to work, but Sue and William are still here until 9th September. We have spent some time with them and more to come yet.
On the 26th July Amanda and James were married at Tredegar House. It is a big country mansion set in it’s own parkland, in Newport. A beautiful setting, both within the house, for the ceremony and the private gardens for the photographs. The reception was in the coach house and we stayed there for the evening function as well .
Amanda looked beautiful and so happy. James nearly outshone his bride In his wedding suit, but not quite. We seemed to have had our summer that day, the sun shone all day, it was lovely. Everything went to plan and everyone had a fabulous day as you can tell by the photographs.
In between all of this David and I are trying to catch up with nearly three years of maintenance on the house and in the garden. At times we wonder why we left the boat so early in the season and with the British weather as well why we are still here. Still there is always next year.